Cogging real hard, won't move...

[Little Smokey]

Stock 380 BL motor, 50t Spur, 28t pinion

I put 100k diff fluid in the front, center and rear diffs. With a new, fully charged 3s, it will just cogg all over its self... The motor spins free, I tried a 15t & a 28t pinion. Driveline and wheels turn as freely as they can with drag from the 100k fluid.

After reading and searching multiple forums. Im thinking 100k fluid across the board is too thick... Could that be why it's cogging so hard or does something in the Tx/Esc need to be reset due to being unplugged for 8+ weeks?

What diff fluid are you guys using?

I am a basher, though she does see occasional track time & speed runs. Would 80k in front, 60k in center and rear be a better setup?

Long & short, I want to have cake and eat it too... Can it be done if no one is looking?

[50togo]

Maybe 50k/100k/50k would be better but have nothing to do with cogging. Does it cog only a slow speed?

[Little Smokey]

It cogges from 1 to 100% throttle. I pulled the motor, hand spin is free, and throttle response is good. When I match it to the spur and set gear mesh, it cogges out. As if it doesn't have enough torque to get going, like the pinion is too tall (a 10 speed bicycle in 10th gear), I swapped to a 15t, same cog. So that eliminated the pinion gear size. THIS JUST DAWNED ON ME, I'm going to double check my diff orientation... would it still roll though??

Noted: 50/100/50

[50togo]

The diff oil would just make it harder to turn in a corner. Did you tighten the diff plates properly?
Take the driveshaft diff the transmission and turn it by hand do the turn easy?

[photon_trap]

The diff oil would just make it harder to turn in a corner. Did you tighten the diff plates properly?
Take the driveshaft diff the transmission and turn it by hand do the turn easy?

exactly, should spin freely, both ends. If one diff is backwards you have a self contained tug of war......