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  1. #1
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    Cant get Revo to start...

    Hey guys recently i had my revo running great then we had a huge cold front come in and well i didnt really
    feel like tuning the thing in the cold this time so i let it hang there then when it started to warm up i tried to get it to start but it refused so i figured it was the glow plug i changed the glow plug then tried again didnt work thought i may have an air leak some where (i also purchased a fuel line with the glow plug) so i put
    that on there once again all it does is rev so i took every thing apart yesterday cleaned the engine area put it back on then tried again right now all it does is the engine revs like it wants to start but gas isnt getting
    to the carb so i changed to my little fuel line so i could see the gas better (not very long) then tried to start it again, again no good and i noticed that gas wasnt flowing through the line, could there possibly be an air leak in the fuel tank because it ran fine before but i also noticed before there was gas ending up on the tank when ever i was done driving it would be wet and it would be on the shaft below the exaust anyone have
    any ideas on what the problem is / what i should do?

  2. #2
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    Have you tried cleaning the carburetor? Sometimes my high speed needle gets gummed up.
    One shot.....One kill, no exceptions

  3. #3
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    Sounds like your tank has a leak.
    Plug the fuel line and blow on the back pressure line. If you hear air leaking out or you see fuel leaking then you need a new tank.
    If the tank is leaking it won't push fuel to the carb.
    If thats not it, then try giving it some gas while trying to start it.
    "I like rc cars"....."WHAT? YOU'RE KIDDING!"

  4. #4
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    if you're finding gas on the tank and inside of the truck, you should take the tank out and pour some water in it, see if it's leaking anywhere. if it is, i'd just put some epoxy on it after cleaning it with some rubbing alcohol or something, but that's up to you. if for some reason it's not leaking, check your exhaust too, if your exhaust coupler isn't tight, the tank won't have the pressure to push the gas. check from the exhaust all the way through the tank to the engine until you find the leak.if the leak was small, it would still start though if primed. you didn't say if you tried priming it or anything.

  5. #5
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    Yes i primed i actually replaced the tank because i found a leak so i did that replaced it then put the lines on saw gas going
    through the lines but not all the way to the carb, i also noticed if i tried giving a little throttle, then noticed the throttle hook
    peace was not connected to the ball on the carb to make it move to save more hassle with the ez start i took it off replaced it with my pull starter and i moved the hook closer on the mount so it can pull the carb out with the throttle i will keep the thread up to date on how its doing oh yea and by the way i gave it a little bit of fuel by taking the air filter off and it started right up so dont know what my problem would be, if it starts to run again i will keep up to date but it tends to run for
    a short amount of time then shut off after the glow igniter is removed.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yzrider06 View Post
    Yes i primed i actually replaced the tank because i found a leak so i did that replaced it then put the lines on saw gas going
    through the lines but not all the way to the carb, i also noticed if i tried giving a little throttle, then noticed the throttle hook
    peace was not connected to the ball on the carb to make it move to save more hassle with the ez start i took it off replaced it with my pull starter and i moved the hook closer on the mount so it can pull the carb out with the throttle i will keep the thread up to date on how its doing oh yea and by the way i gave it a little bit of fuel by taking the air filter off and it started right up so dont know what my problem would be, if it starts to run again i will keep up to date but it tends to run for
    a short amount of time then shut off after the glow igniter is removed.
    Then the plug is dead if it dies when you take the ignitor off.
    "I like rc cars"....."WHAT? YOU'RE KIDDING!"

  7. #7
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    okay i got every thing back on pull start engine, carb now opening all the way but i still cant get it to start i'm going to charge every thing up tonight then try again tomorrow it is getting late. if any one has any tips for me getting this thing started again that would be awesome to share them with me thanks for all the help so far!
    cheers!

  8. #8
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    well thats the thing it just came out of the package...
    Quote Originally Posted by upbasher View Post
    Then the plug is dead if it dies when you take the ignitor off.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yzrider06 View Post
    well thats the thing it just came out of the package...
    How about the ignitor? Is it fully charged?
    "I like rc cars"....."WHAT? YOU'RE KIDDING!"

  10. #10
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    i'm charging every thing tonight and will try again tomorrow, now that i got every thing together hopefully it will all be good.
    Quote Originally Posted by upbasher View Post
    How about the ignitor? Is it fully charged?

  11. #11
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    well i did not clean the carburetor, tomorrow(today) i am going to go to an auto parts store and by some carburetor cleaner to put in it and hopefully that will solve my problem. any suggestions on a specific brand to get.
    Quote Originally Posted by bloody wheels View Post
    Have you tried cleaning the carburetor? Sometimes my high speed needle gets gummed up.

  12. #12
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    Ive only ever used wd-40 to clean the carb or engine out or after run treatment. Im curious to see what the pros think about or if they use carb cleaner?
    " You just got passed by a Traxxas"

  13. #13
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    I think i am going to get both just in case, but i just cranked at it and what i had fed into the carb had made it start for less
    than half a second then died, ( about 3 times) is it possible for where the gas comes through the line to the carb it could be
    getting stuck because of the gunk stuck up in it or is there a completely different issue?
    Quote Originally Posted by NvDesertRat96 View Post
    Ive only ever used wd-40 to clean the carb or engine out or after run treatment. Im curious to see what the pros think about or if they use carb cleaner?

  14. #14
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    Alright guys got it to start and run with the WD40 and compressed air in the carb now my only question is...When tuning it...
    what do i need to do for it not to want to take off like a raging bubble bee? i know it has to do something with the LSN if i am
    not mistakening..

  15. #15
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    your idle screw or trim are setting the carb too open, or your clutch spring is broken.the lsn controls the fuel mixture, rich/lean, not the idle speed. put your trim all the way down, and close the carb with the idle screw until it's only a few mm open, and then try starting it. if it doesn't start, move the trim up until it does, then open the carb with the idle screw to about the point that it was starting at.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by ou2mame View Post
    your idle screw or trim are setting the carb too open, or your clutch spring is broken.the lsn controls the fuel mixture, rich/lean, not the idle speed. put your trim all the way down, and close the carb with the idle screw until it's only a few mm open, and then try starting it. if it doesn't start, move the trim up until it does, then open the carb with the idle screw to about the point that it was starting at.
    Okay it was not the idle i looked at that and for a while i thought it was that until i realized where the clutch shoe and spring were, i havent had time to work on it until tonight
    because of school but i looked at it and it was the clutch shoes and spring well i dont know if they were broken but the
    shoes
    were like seperating so i got my other ones from my old truck but new engine (long story) but i replaced the clutch shoes and spring with the new one and the barings in the clutch bell seem to be like falling apart should i replace those or just keep them? thanks in advance
    Last edited by Yzrider06; 02-10-2013 at 12:38 AM.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by upbasher View Post
    Then the plug is dead if it dies when you take the ignitor off.
    With all due respect, this advice is not correct.

    The glow plug will only glow when a power source is connected. Once adiabatic compression keeps the fuel ignited, the glow plug is no longer needed to sustain ignition. Same principles of a Diesel engine.

    The fact that the car dies when the post source (igniter) is removed points to a different issue, but actually confirms the plug IS working. Otherwise, the engine wouldn't start at all.

  18. #18
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    This week, during our cold snap, I found out how sensitive the 3.3 is to ambient temp.

    In the garage, at 48 degrees, the engine REFUSED to start. Once I brought the truck indoors, and let it come up to 70 degrees, it fired up in less than a second!!

  19. #19
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    you have to tune it for the weather.. that's why it'll run better in one temp than another. my truck runs fine in the cold, just gotta wrap the heatsink and make sure the engine gets warm enough to run rich enough. my truck also runs fine in the summer lol just need better ventilation to cool it.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by GizmoVance View Post
    With all due respect, this advice is not correct.

    The glow plug will only glow when a power source is connected. Once adiabatic compression keeps the fuel ignited, the glow plug is no longer needed to sustain ignition. Same principles of a Diesel engine.

    The fact that the car dies when the post source (igniter) is removed points to a different issue, but actually confirms the plug IS working. Otherwise, the engine wouldn't start at all.
    What would the problem be? and the bearing (part # 4611) is that the bearing for all trucks or on maxx? kinda confusing but was looking on ebay and it said all max trucks im thinking revo would be considered that too

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by GizmoVance View Post
    With all due respect, this advice is not correct.

    The glow plug will only glow when a power source is connected. Once adiabatic compression keeps the fuel ignited, the glow plug is no longer needed to sustain ignition. Same principles of a Diesel engine.

    The fact that the car dies when the post source (igniter) is removed points to a different issue, but actually confirms the plug IS working. Otherwise, the engine wouldn't start at all.
    Sorry, you're wrong. If the glow plug was not lit, the engine would not run. the compression only helps.
    I have heard and seen some engines start without lighting the plug, but it is very rare and usually happens with big blocks. And once the engine starts the glow plug gets hot right away to help it stay running good. The glow plug stays lit by the continuous explosions.
    Last edited by upbasher; 02-10-2013 at 05:18 PM.
    "I like rc cars"....."WHAT? YOU'RE KIDDING!"

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by upbasher View Post
    Sorry, you're wrong. If the glow plug was not lit, the engine would not run. the compression only helps.
    I have heard and seen some engines start without lighting the plug, but it is very rare and usually happens with big blocks. And once the engine starts the glow plug gets hot right away to help it stay running good. The glow plug stays lit by the continuous explosions.
    Ok. lets not haggle over semantics and context. It sounded like you were saying that the plug was dead if the motor died after he unplugged it. All I was saying is that does not say the plug is dead, which is what you say when the plug keeps glowing as the engine runs.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by upbasher View Post
    Sorry, you're wrong. If the glow plug was not lit, the engine would not run. the compression only helps.
    I have heard and seen some engines start without lighting the plug, but it is very rare and usually happens with big blocks. And once the engine starts the glow plug gets hot right away to help it stay running good. The glow plug stays lit by the continuous explosions.
    Mr. UpBasher,

    I owe you an apology. I am wrong. You "sparked" my curiousity (pun intended) to do a little further research in which I found out something VERY interesting. Regarding "Nitro" engines, apparently the methanol sets up a reaction and, as you said, along with the compression, the glow plug continues to "glow" while the engine is running.

    This answered my question as to why we buy different plug temperatures. I could never figure out why...if they were just used for starting.

    Phew! Now I can sleep. Again, my bad...sorry for clouding up the waters!
    Last edited by GizmoVance; 02-10-2013 at 08:59 PM.

  24. #24
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    UpBasher, question for you...the bearing (part # 4611) is that the bearing for all trucks or on maxx? kinda confusing but was looking on ebay and it said all max trucks im thinking revo would be considered that too

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yzrider06 View Post
    UpBasher, question for you...the bearing (part # 4611) is that the bearing for all trucks or on maxx? kinda confusing but was looking on ebay and it said all max trucks im thinking revo would be considered that too
    Best to take a look at the exploded views. The 14t clutch bell uses a 4x10 bearing and the others use the 4x11. The exploded view will show you everything.
    The Super Derecho

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    Best to take a look at the exploded views. The 14t clutch bell uses a 4x10 bearing and the others use the 4x11. The exploded view will show you everything.
    well i guess i use a 4x10 then because the bearing i ordered doesnt fit.

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