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  1. #1
    RC Racer
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    doubletapdaddy's P4de Build

    Greetings. First post, first RC, first build! I’ve been wanting to get into RC vehicles and build a kit for years now, but never committed for one reason or another. When I happened across an inexpensive P4de roller recently, I finally took the plunge. I enjoy build threads on this (as well as other) sites, and thought that I might contribute.

    Didn't think to take pic of roller prior to tray removal:


    Following Rit treatment:



    Pleasantly surprised at the near perfect match:



    Used two packets of dry dye into boiling water, followed by 3 hour soak off heat.
    More to follow...

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier
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    Welcome to the forum and addiction. You sure picked a great RC to start with. I hope this build brings you many hours of enjoyment. Have fun and I will be watching.


    Sent from Oser world

  3. #3
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    Welcome, and i have to say i love the dye job the black chassie looks great

  4. #4
    RC Racer
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    Looking forward to chassis mod for the 1415... love to Dremel stuff.



    Went with the Field Link as the difference in price vs Castle Link was negligible ($2.34 difference). When attached to PC via USB, the FL provides all functionality of the CL.

  5. #5
    RC Racer
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    I know, I know... What about the transmitter and receiver? Well I do love to tinker:




    TQi who?




    Overkill? I certainly hope so:

  6. #6
    RC Racer
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    Decided to address the rear:



    The right tools are a must have:


    Began with the shocks:



    Note no e-clips:


    30W all four corners:


  7. #7
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    Loving everything you've bought so far now what about batteries?


    Sent from Oser world

  8. #8
    RC Racer
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    SPC 5400mAh/50C/3S/11.1V LiPO (x2) en route as we speak. Running the 4PKsR with a Hobbico 1900mAh/3C/13Wh/6.6V LiFe. Charging duties will be provided by Traxxas EZ-Peak Plus 6amp.

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by doubletapdaddy View Post
    Looking forward to chassis mod for the 1415... love to Dremel stuff
    pretty sure you will have to dye it again after the dremel job. What driveshafts are you planning to run?
    Last edited by RC-Fan; 02-10-2013 at 08:34 PM.

  10. #10
    RC Racer
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    Arms by Pro-Line, axle carriers by Traxxas:


    Thought (read on various posts) that previous instructions indicated "blue" threadlock:


    Using MIP X-Duty CVD #11104 x all corners for added reach on P-L arms:



    Also, I used "graphite dry lube" spray on the sliders, instead of grease. You can also see that I do not have faith in the MIP grub screws.

  11. #11
    RC Racer
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    Stock vs MPI/PL comparison:








    Note reversed axle carriers. At this point I have zero contact/rub of MIPs on carriers throughout full range. Still have to mod guards for appropriate fit.

  12. #12
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    I used a black sharpie after the Dremel work. I love busting out my Dremel too!


    Sent from Oser world

  13. #13
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    Looking fine. Great build.

  14. #14
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirty don View Post
    I used a black sharpie after the Dremel work. I love busting out my Dremel too!
    How deep does the dye penetrate? Looking forward to seeing durability of dye after a good thrashing.

  15. #15
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by o0wiz0o View Post
    Looking fine. Great build.
    Thanx. Loving it so far. My only worries are my very limited soldering skills, followed by trimming/painting the body.

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Welcome to the pede family dude your build is looking very awesome dont worry about a thing your in good hands and just take your time when doing new stuff.And you can tell by the parts you are using that you did your homeworkkeep up the good work........peace
    Famous last words...watch this!!!!

  17. #17
    RC Racer
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    In the mailbox today:


  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Those batteries will go with that castle setup super well dude enjoy....peace
    Famous last words...watch this!!!!

  19. #19
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    Nice pede..I also can't help but notice your sweet mancave
    You ain't bashin unless your crashin!!

  20. #20
    RC Enthusiast
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    What kind of Proline shocks are those i really like them?

  21. #21
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by wolfrage View Post
    What kind of Proline shocks are those i really like them?
    PowerStrokes... 6063-00(fronts), 6063-01 (rear).

  22. #22
    RC Racer
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    I also have Pro-Line's Spring Assortment (ie. tuning kit) for both front and rear shocks.




  23. #23
    RC Racer
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    Funny... postman actually came back after dinner, as two packages were left on truck:






  24. #24
    RC Racer
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    Nice build you got there

  25. #25
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    Decided to modify rear shock guards to work with PL arms.

    Stock position was 2nd hole. My desired mounting position with PL was somewhere between 1st and 2nd. Decided to remove material between 2 holes, then reinforce with small body washers:




    Shaped washer to fit within stock mold:


    The guard sits further away from PL arms than the stock arms. Even with sway bar link, there was still space to fill. I fabricated a spacer by bisecting the stock spacer from single/inner hole, and then filing to appropriate size:


    Voilà:







  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Awesome build. If I had a car built that nice, I would never drive it
    Nobody is born with experience

  27. #27
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    Oh man, super nice so far! Attention to detail is impressive. I Had to modify my shock guards basically the same way you did. Keep up the great work dude!

  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    I have got to admit its one of the best pede builds i have seen so far dude you have done your homework and more I will be watching this one...........peace
    Famous last words...watch this!!!!

  29. #29
    RC Racer
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    Yeah... After acquiring the roller, I read the forums obsessively for 2 months prior to purchasing components. As of now, all but the servo have been delivered.

  30. #30
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    My P4de is gonna have some big meat - tires that is. To handle stronger than stock servo, I decided to install STRC Aluminum Steering Bellcrank.

    Stock:


    STRC:


    STRC bellcrank appears to eliminate driveshaft rub that I have read about (linkage turned to full right lock):

  31. #31
    RC Racer
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    Anyone up for a game of "Spot the Mods"?


  32. #32
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    revo spec slipper and bearing mod?
    Everything overpowered...

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by QYKSLVR View Post
    revo spec slipper and bearing mod?
    2 out of 3...

  34. #34
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    Some sort of output or yoke mod, but I dont know what it is as I havent seen it before and could not name it lol

    Possibly upgraded slipper pads?
    Everything overpowered...

  35. #35
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by QYKSLVR View Post
    Some sort of output or yoke mod, but I dont know what it is as I havent seen it before and could not name it lol

    Possibly upgraded slipper pads?
    Nice.
    Alloy slipper pads (forgot about those), and Tekno driveshaft/outdrives, yokes, whatever. lol.




  36. #36
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    Glad I spotted something you missed!

    I really like that Center driveshaft. Bellcrank is gorgeous too.
    Everything overpowered...

  37. #37
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    nice build whats the cost on this baby?

  38. #38
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Well now the drivetrain is just as bulletproof as the rest of the truck dude awesomeAnd can you after a few run give us a review of the tekno big bone......peace
    Famous last words...watch this!!!!

  39. #39
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    Well now the drivetrain is just as bulletproof as the rest of the truck dude awesomeAnd can you after a few run give us a review of the tekno big bone......peace
    Prior to purchase, I had read somewhere that the Tekno “outdrive” attached to the slipper shaft would not fit through the bearing located in the motor mount (slipper shaft bearing). I refused to believe such an engineering flaw/oversight. I can now definitively report that it does NOT fit through the bearing housed in the motor mount. To attach/detach the outdrive, you must have the clear driveshaft guard removed… major PIA for those who like to perform frequent slipper adjustments. I may drill an access hole to reach the outdrive grub screw, however it would be useless for threadlock application. The Tekno outdrive does not have an inner flat spot like the stock drive hub, and relies solely on the grub screw for coupling.

    Still gonna give it a go, though.
    Someone stole my signature.

  40. #40
    RC Racer
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    Rear Completed:








    Following removal of more material, shock guards fit very well:


    EDIT: For the very perceptive (you know who you are) - Lunsford pins not yet installed. Also need to lower body mounts/posts.
    Someone stole my signature.

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