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Thread: rc lights ?

  1. #1
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    rc lights ?

    Basically how do I install these what or where do i plug them into etc Any particular brand you guys recommend etc...? Just getting a rough idea how to go about and what is needed to put lights on my rc's thanks for the help
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  2. #2
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    There are many light kits ou there. Rc lighthouse is nice but pricy.
    Just google rc light kits and you will come across a few things.
    I have a few kits in mind for myself. I will get you links later when I have more time.
    Never trust a fart.

  3. #3
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    i run several light kits in some of my cars and trucks. There are a couple of ways of doing this. You can wire the kits yourself and have to figure out all the resisters and voltages. You can buy a pre made kit off the internet that has everything pre wired.. Or lastly, you can get a kit that will control headlamps, tail light, reverse, brakes and blinkers. Its really up to you. I've gone just about every right with these lights. They either run off a 9V battery or extra slot on your rx.. They draw very little power and are very durable.
    Maxx3.3/ rusty5700/ slash3800/ slash5700 /4tec3.3

  4. #4
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    Here is the light kit I am wanting.
    http://www.amazon.com/Power-Flashing.../dp/B00A49U94O

    More lights from hobby partz

    http://www.hobbypartz.com/ledlights.html
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by cenracer1 View Post
    Or lastly, you can get a kit that will control headlamps, tail light, reverse, brakes and blinkers. Its really up to you. I've gone just about every right with these lights. They either run off a 9V battery or extra slot on your rx.. They draw very little power and are very durable.
    So this set up will allow like the brake lights to light when I apply brakes then? like I said never messed with lights before so not sure...
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  6. #6
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    i wish i had known about rc lighthouse because they are cheaper than what i just paied to build my own kit
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  7. #7
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    Where did you buy from, how many lights did you get and for how much, cjroy?

    Light house isn't too bad.
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  8. #8
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    Check out a company on ebay called Apex RC out of New York. They seem to be fairly new (100% pos. feedback), but have really good prices and they ship really fast. Their prices are pretty close to the cheapest you can get out of Hong Kong, but I got stuff from them in three days instead of three weeks. I just got a set of twelve LED's + controller for about fifteen bucks. Has working brakelights, turn signals, fog lights and headlights. Gonna be cool on my 6WD Streamliner rig crawler!

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    Timber211.. the kits that I have are made by tamiya.. They come with some of their cars but you can get them without the cars as well. They are not cheap however and I'm sure the knock off kits on ebay from overseas are probably just as good, but I run the originals so I can't know for sure. The kits I have will run headlamps, taillamps, brake lights, turn signals, reverse lamps and high/low beams.. everything works thru the tx.. I don't run high/low or turn signals, but I do like all the rest. I run touring cars every saturday night in the dark with just LED lighting. with about 6-12 cars running at the same time its nice to be able to tell the cars apart..
    Maxx3.3/ rusty5700/ slash3800/ slash5700 /4tec3.3

  10. #10
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    Told ya they were fast! I got my LED kit in the mail today. No work tomorrow night, so it'll get installed then. Looks pretty nice.

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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by MAXXXMASHER View Post
    Told ya they were fast! I got my LED kit in the mail today. No work tomorrow night, so it'll get installed then. Looks pretty nice.

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    Please post some pics of them wired and then lit up on the dark!
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  12. #12
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    I won a couple led sets on ebay real cheap. They were powered by a 9v battery with on/off switches. I actually cut the battery end off. Then soldered on a receiver connector.
    I'm not krazy. My mother had me tested.

  13. #13
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    Ha; get them installed, I said. I got a fair amount done, but I spent a fair amount of my time looking through my stuff to find enough male/female connectors. I needed these, because I want to be able to take the front turn signal and headlight leads apart when I take off the body. The rear lights are never moving because the rear of the truck always stays attatched. I ended up using servo lead extenders and I have to take apart four of them to take off the body to change batteries, etc. This meant I had to solder sixteen connections to achieve this! I like soldering, but that was time consuming. Also I had to strip wires, tin everything, and apply shrink wrap. Next part will be to cut the holes in the body and put the lights in their housings. Tested it out with all my connections done, and so far everything is working as it should. When I think of how long this took me to do, it's hard to believe I got this kit for fifteen dollars. I guess things move a bit faster on a soldering assembly line....


    Fresh out of the package.



    Some of my connections and my home made helper board. Sorry, my Ipod took the pic upside down.



    One of the headlights.



    Installed in the holder.



    Front turn signal in it's housing.



    When the truck is at rest or moving forward, the tail lights are on.



    When in reverse, the tail lights go out and these four lights come on. I'm going to mount two in the bumper and two in the tailgate.



    The diagram on the side of the controller.



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    Nice thanks for the pictures Maxx...cant wait to see them mounted up
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    Looks awesome!

    Did you have to buy the housings separate or did it come with the package?
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  16. #16
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    No housings were included. I had some on hand. You can get them cheap at radio shack or on ebay. Most times with lexan, you can just put a small hole just big enough for half the LED to stick through the head light sticker and glob RTV silicone on the inside. Works pretty well.

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  17. #17
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    Sweet.. Do you think this kit comes with housings? It doesn't say if housings are included. I would like to install on my stampede sometime.

    http://www.amazon.com/Power-Flashing.../dp/B00A49U94O
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  18. #18
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    There's black plastic housings in the pic. I prefer the chrome bezels.3mm and 5mm
    http://lighthouseleds.com/catalogsea...Bezel+-+Chrome
    Guide books aren't part of the packaging.

  19. #19
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    How sturdy would the lights be if I stuck the lights through the holes in the body and then hot glued them in there? Using no light holders at all.
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by ithrowstones View Post
    Sweet.. Do you think this kit comes with housings? It doesn't say if housings are included. I would like to install on my stampede sometime.

    http://www.amazon.com/Power-Flashing.../dp/B00A49U94O
    Even better price; and with holders, too! Go for it! It's a little daunting at first, with wires everywhere, but once you start organizing them, it's not too bad. Like electronic spaghetti! I want mine to be waterproof, too. Going well so far. Cant imagine one of those light and sound units in the big rig trucks. Those crazy things are $300!

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  21. #21
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    So that kit I linked to does come with housings, sweet!!

    Once we get back from Michigan, leave on the 29th and staying up there for 2 weeks, I will see how much money I have left (need to buy MI fishin license) and if its enough i will buy that kit and install it for some awesome night time running!!

    Thanks Maxx
    Last edited by ithrowstones; 06-23-2013 at 02:55 PM.
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  22. #22
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    If you want them brighter too light up the place, you may need to swap the front lights out for some brighter led's.
    I had a vid of before and after, but can't seem to find the before vids, only the after vid is on you tube.
    Guide books aren't part of the packaging.

  23. #23
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    I also have 2 LED lights from walmart that are extremely bright.. I was out one night with them facing an on-coming car..they flashed their brights at me. These will also be going on my truck..

    Post number 2... http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...uot-build-quot
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by trax de max View Post
    If you want them brighter too light up the place, you may need to swap the front lights out for some brighter led's.
    I had a vid of before and after, but can't seem to find the before vids, only the after vid is on you tube.
    Yeah, he's correct. The kit I have is meant more for show than go. You need some bright lights to properly run when the sun's down. There are some nice kits, but they can get pricey. Haven't really looked into it....the trail torch light bars are super bright, but cost like eighty bucks. I'm sure cheaper alternatives could be had.

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  25. #25
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    I won't be doing any off road play with the lights.. Just on road only.. And the 2 I have now are plenty but they are bulky so I want to down size. This kit always doesn't have to be flashing. It has a solid setting which is handy...

    I don't have 80 bucks to spend on lights.. Rather use some of that for gas and RC
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    ok so I got a light bar for a summit off a friend to chop up and use but it has this plug on it and I want them for xl-5 buggy but there is no place to plug it in so what do I need to run this or make it to work with a 9v if possible



    Thanks for any help
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  27. #27
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    Is it possible to change to the plug and put it in a receiver channe?
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  28. #28
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    That plug should be able to fit in your reciever. It's called a JST plug, and as long as your LED's can handle six volts, you're re ok. That's about as technical as I get when it comes to lighting. Get into diodes and flux capacitors, and I'm lost. That's why I got the kit. I mean, I love to solder and have put lights on many trucks, but only just for show. I even had lights in one of my Micros. I got a couple of mini mag light replacement led bulbs rated for 1.5 volts at Radio Shack, wired some leads on with a mini Deans connector and soldered a set of leads to a cheap rechargeable 2000 mah Nimh AA battery. Worked pretty well! Keep your eyes open at yard sales, too. That five dollar giant junk pickup with no radio is sure to have lots of LED's and light buckets that you can remove to suit your needs.

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  29. #29
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    I have a 2.4ghz reciever I don't see anywhere that plug fits? I just got the bandit a few weeks ago....
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  30. #30
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    Pretty sure you can plug it right into an open channel on your reciever. Should be able to wiggle it in there. Not sure about the Traxxas Radios, though. I run three channel Spektrums on all my RC's and if I need just power, I can run a lead out of the bind slot. If that's not an option, you can run a jumper lead off of your esc wires that plug into your battery. You can make a double ended plug so you won't void your warranty and also if you choose to not run your lights. Just make sure your lights can handle the voltage that your battery is pumping out. I made one of these to power a winch on one of my trucks.

    In other news......I got my truck totally done tonight!! All the lights work, everything is zip tied neatly, and it is totally waterproof, too! Can wait to get this baby out to play!

    Had to custom make some light buckets....



    All secure!



    The business end....



    A wiring nightmare. I'm also running a bec to power the two independent steering servos as well. Just adds to the fun.



    Front lights and turn signal.



    Tail lights and rear turn signal.



    Reverse lights.







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  31. #31
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    Those are some nice lookin light MAXX!!
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  32. #32
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    Maxxmasher.. I'm confused as to why you don't just unplug one plug and remove the whole body on the max.. I haven't seen your whole truck so I don't know. mine are on touring cars that we run every saturday night and have to change batteries at least 3 times a night per car, so I would go crazy unplugging that many wires. our lights are very bright, but we use them to see the cars, not drive by them. LED lights aren't that bright and the ones that are super bright are not practical in this application. One of the guys we run with installed some huge white LED's on his 1/8 Rally and other than blinding himself and everyone else around, when going at 40 or 50mph.. the 10-15 foot throw of a super brite LED isn't really helpful.. going slower with a Tmaxx or crawler is a different story.. One thing that I have found out is that if you run in a familiar place often enough, just seeing where the car is works fine.. you really can't use the light for that. On a final note.. you can't just replace an LED for a brighter one. They are voltage dependent/sensitive. plug in even 1 or 2 volts too much and the LED will burn out.. Too little voltage and they will be very dim.. Most of the specialty super bright LED's run on 12volts..they will have resisters or circuit boards to adjust the voltages.. you would need a voltage booster or 3S lipo pack to run them. 12V LED's on 9V will be quite dim even though its supposed to be super bright..

    Timber.. Most of the kits are designed to run either off on 9V batteries or even better just plug into a spare receiver port. The 9V systems usually have a resister mounted inline behind the LED or in the wires to lower the voltage.. The ones that run off the receiver will have a different resister value.. Red LED's usually run on 2Volts.. Blue and white usually run off 4V.. There are exceptions for specialty LED's but as a general run the above works well.. There are tons of websites to help you figure it out if you want to make your own.
    Last edited by cenracer1; 06-25-2013 at 05:46 PM.
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  33. #33
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    I thought mine wouldn't work swapping out, but it did. The original lights would struggle at 1/4 of that distance.
    Guide books aren't part of the packaging.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by cenracer1 View Post
    Maxxmasher.. I'm confused as to why you don't just unplug one plug and remove the whole body on the max.. I haven't seen your whole truck so I don't know.
    Every led that flashes has it's own slot in the controller for the leads. I suppose I could use two y-harnesses to eliminate a plug on the headlights. I'll give that a try. I couldn't mount the controller on the lexan part of the body because not only is it powered from the esc, it also has leads that the servo routes through so they flash when you turn the wheels. I also have the servos powered through a bec. Must be a mile of wire involved! You're right though, it is kind of a pain to take the body off.....


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    mine is the same setup, but the servo wires aren't connected directly thru the control board. only one wire to the rx and the controller does the rest. All of mine are mounted directly to the underside of the roof on touring cars. I see where yours is different though.. And I don't run the turn signals anyway.. I ran it once and it drove me crazy.. All the lights are mounted individually to the controller and yes its a mile of wire.. I use gorilla tape and lay them flat to the underside of the body using as little tape as possible. works well and only need to touch up the tape once in a while..
    Maxx3.3/ rusty5700/ slash3800/ slash5700 /4tec3.3

  36. #36
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    I wonder how well hot glue would hold the wires along the body??
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    Hot glue works great

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    Hot glue works fine as long as you don't stress the body.. what I mean is I run mine in touring cars and when they crash, the body tends to distort quite a bit. .when that happens the glue will pull away from the body and often remove the paint with it.. even will take off factory paint at times. If you are running in a monster or crawler, you will be fine.. The way the bodies are designed, they don't flex like cars. If you are not sure, you can run Gorilla tape in areas you think might be a problem and run hot Glue everywhere else..
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  39. #39
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    I will be using the stock stampede body on a stampede (obviously,haha) I will only be running on the road with a 2S.. Not going fast, just enough for fun and looks!
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