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  1. #201
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    Beautiful! This inspired me to build my own 1/10 rally.

  2. #202
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    SAWEEEET! Excellent job!!!

    AB
    I'll try anything once, maybe twice!

  3. #203
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ControlledWithRemote View Post
    Beautiful! This inspired me to build my own 1/10 rally.
    Cheers mate...that's what happened to me, I was inspired by Humayray to build my own . Good luck with your build mate!

    Quote Originally Posted by aburg2 View Post
    SAWEEEET! Excellent job!!!

    AB
    Thanks...I am getting better a painting and decaling my bodies. My confidence has grown since my first attempt. To me the hardest and longest part is the body prep for spraying.
    Rock n Rolla !

  4. #204
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. humayrayakongkinaon's Avatar
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    once again mate, you've done a great job on painting i should have my DP8 body come here by tomorrow. i want to compare this body with the PF8 on how it handles.
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  5. #205
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    Exclamation Rally's first test run.

    Its been raining so much here lately, especially over the Easter break. I got a gap on Easter Monday to give my Rally a test.

    Well needless to say I was a little disappointed with my setup...these are my thoughts.
    • Motor temps were off the chart...I used the feel method, very hot to touch. I'm gauging around the 75° to 80°C mark.
    • Braking sucked, the Rally was taking to long to stop at high speeds and had a few mishaps hitting things. Nothing broken tho!
    • Suspension seemed OK but I was getting a lot of body scrub around the nose and sides while cornering and braking.
    • The front wheels vibrated like crazy while turning and would force the servo to turn the steering straight for a second and then back to its turning position but was OK in a straight line.


    I ran the Rally like this for about 10min before the disappointment took over...went back inside and tried to fine tune my Rally...I always new there would be some fine tuning as I am building a rig that is not stock .

    This is what I changed.
    • Gearing - reduced to 19 pinion so as to try 19/36 MOD1 gearing.
    • Braking - changed from 50% to 60% via the field link programmer.
    • Suspension - I swapped the 50W shock oil out for 60W Losi shock oil. I also replaced the Blue striped springs on the front shocks with the black springs.
    • Front wheel vibration - it took me a while to figure this out...the problem was the left front CVD. When the steering was turned left or right the the CVD would turn until it bound forcing the steering straight to complete its revolution. The drive pin (not sure if its called that, it is the one that is inserted into the dog bone to allow the stub axle to join the dog bone and secured with the cross pin) was the problem...it was getting stuck. This probably would of sorted itself out after a few runs with wear and tear, but I didn't like the way it was making my Rally perform. I ended up swapping the left rear Tekno dog bone with left front, the problem has now gone away.


    To summarise my settings now.
    • 60W shock oil front and rear.
    • VDK piston #1 front and rear.
    • Black springs front and Green springs rear.
    • 19/36 MOD1 gearing.
    • Braking % now set at 60%.


    Here are the spring rates again for reference.
    FRONT.
    =====

    =====
    =====
    REAR.
    =====

    =====
    =====
    I will try and get some video footage of the next test run .
    Rock n Rolla !

  6. #206
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    I ran into that problem also on one of my xo1 stubs and tekno bones when I first put them together. I swapped them around till I felt no binding. They seem to go together very tightly.
    Traxxas gone bye bye!

  7. #207
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    Outstanding ride, Mitch!!! She's going to be a real screamer when she's all dialed in. I'm very excited to see video of your runs! The body looks incredible! Nice work!!

  8. #208
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    I just built my Tekno/XO-1 shafts and noticed that the rears were binding a little in the stub axle cup. I took the Dremel out & used a fine grinding hub, then polished them, meaning the ball end on the dog bone. Smoooth as silk! The fronts were perfect from the start. Can't wait to get 'em on!

    AB
    I'll try anything once, maybe twice!

  9. #209
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. humayrayakongkinaon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aburg2 View Post
    I just built my Tekno/XO-1 shafts and noticed that the rears were binding a little in the stub axle cup. I took the Dremel out & used a fine grinding hub, then polished them, meaning the ball end on the dog bone. Smoooth as silk! The fronts were perfect from the start. Can't wait to get 'em on!

    AB
    i did not experience this with my set-up, i guesss i got lucky.
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  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by humayrayakongkinaon View Post
    once again mate, you've done a great job on painting i should have my DP8 body come here by tomorrow. i want to compare this body with the PF8 on how it handles.
    I took my time with this one...took me a few days to mask and using the liquid mask was time consuming. I was surprised how well it worked.

    I look forward to seeing that body....

    Quote Originally Posted by CrashTestDummy View Post
    Outstanding ride, Mitch!!! She's going to be a real screamer when she's all dialed in. I'm very excited to see video of your runs! The body looks incredible! Nice work!!
    Thanks mate...the fine tuning drives me crazy, I'd say its about 90% there. I need to learn to drive it better, its way different from my other trucks .
    Rock n Rolla !

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sierravmax View Post
    I ran into that problem also on one of my xo1 stubs and tekno bones when I first put them together. I swapped them around till I felt no binding. They seem to go together very tightly.
    They are a tight fit...I'm glad I got it sorted because the language that came out my mouth was not pretty when I was testing the Rally out....

    Quote Originally Posted by aburg2 View Post
    I just built my Tekno/XO-1 shafts and noticed that the rears were binding a little in the stub axle cup. I took the Dremel out & used a fine grinding hub, then polished them, meaning the ball end on the dog bone. Smoooth as silk! The fronts were perfect from the start. Can't wait to get 'em on!

    AB
    I wanted to use my dremel...the problem was I couldn't remove the drive pin from the dog bone, it was stuck in there pretty good and solid. I am positive that after a few runs the problem will be gone tho.

    Quote Originally Posted by humayrayakongkinaon View Post
    i did not experience this with my set-up, i guesss i got lucky.
    I wish I was lucky with these...any way that's how we learn. I am glad to see I was not the only one to experience this .
    Rock n Rolla !

  12. #212
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    Almost dialed in mate. Few more minor tweaks and she is going to be a demon street eater. Nice Work!
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  13. #213
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    Thumbs up Test Run Video.

    Well, here it is...a short little clip of my 2nd run with my Rally with the new settings.

    • Handling - improved so much better. The 60W shock oil and new black spring front has made a huge difference with the VDK piston #1 all round. My Rally is much more stable now.
    • Gearing - Motor temps still to hot for my liking but an improvement to before.
    • Braking - My braking is spot on at 60%.
    • Front wheel vibration - The problem has now been sorted and my Rally is running smoothly.

    My thoughts:
    • I am still getting some body scrub...it looks like its the corner on each side of the nose.
    • My Rally is oversteering a bit on off-power in corners.
    • It's not really drifting like I thought it would...this may be due to the tyres I am using and gearing.


    I have put some music to the video as my cameras microphone on my phone has been damaged. I hope to get this sorted in the next few months. The Rally is like a little rocket, unfortunately the roads are so narrow...this is shot outside my mates house, its not really an ideal place to use the Rally...I also need to learn to control my rig better as its not a monster truck like I am use to.

    I only managed to open 1/2 throttle in the video.

    It' very quick and nimble making it a pleasure to drive...the steering is amazing as the Rally is so responsive.
    =====
    Last edited by MITCH316; 04-03-2013 at 08:14 PM. Reason: spelling
    Rock n Rolla !

  14. #214
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    Awesome build, awesome read, awesome write-up, AWESOME everything!

    Your write up is so much into detail and intricacy that I read page 1 to page 6 (Last page) in one sitting.

    Keep up the good work man!
    I want an avatar... 3000 posts here we go!

  15. #215
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    Love the vid as well!
    I want an avatar... 3000 posts here we go!

  16. #216
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. humayrayakongkinaon's Avatar
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    nice vid mate, I'm glad your loving it. I got my DP8 body today and got it trimmed and fitted. here's what it looks like as of now 'til I get it painted and also did a quick vid of how to cut the wheel well perfectly





    video:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHvu-NPUShY
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  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by stampede_fanatic View Post
    Awesome build, awesome read, awesome write-up, AWESOME everything!

    Your write up is so much into detail and intricacy that I read page 1 to page 6 (Last page) in one sitting.

    Keep up the good work man!
    Thanks for the feedback mate...I appreciate it.
    Rock n Rolla !

  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by humayrayakongkinaon View Post
    nice vid mate, I'm glad your loving it. I got my DP8 body today and got it trimmed and fitted. here's what it looks like as of now 'til I get it painted and also did a quick vid of how to cut the wheel well perfectly .
    Cheers mate...loving the Rally so far, its a little rocket! That new body looks awesome...I may end up getting one for myself in the future.

    I use a similar technique to yours...yours looks far better than mine. I'll give it a try next time.

    Here's the vid.
    Rock n Rolla !

  19. #219
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    Nice driving! I see it handles well! Now all you need is a wide open parking lot where you can stretch her legs!!! Wait until you get some high speed sliding turns in, it's a BLAST!!!

    AB
    I'll try anything once, maybe twice!

  20. #220
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    Nice vid I think I might turn my slash into a rally and give it a shot sometime in the future . It looks like it handles very well and very well planted


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  21. #221
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    Once again...another awesome build thread from MITCH316. Thanks for sharing, you are truly an inspiring individual. Keep up the great work dude .

  22. #222
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    Quote Originally Posted by aburg2 View Post
    Nice driving! I see it handles well! Now all you need is a wide open parking lot where you can stretch her legs!!! Wait until you get some high speed sliding turns in, it's a BLAST!!!

    AB
    Thanks mate...I am loving this build. Unfortunately the parking lots here are full of parking bollards and barriers. I might head out to an industrial area and go give the Rally a burn on a wide open road.

    Quote Originally Posted by mydudrevo View Post
    Nice vid I think I might turn my slash into a rally and give it a shot sometime in the future . It looks like it handles very well and very well planted
    I was surprised how well the Rally handles...it really does stay planted making it enjoyable to drive on road compared to my Erevo.

    Quote Originally Posted by Naaier View Post
    Once again...another awesome build thread from MITCH316. Thanks for sharing, you are truly an inspiring individual. Keep up the great work dude .
    Thanks for the feedback mate.
    Rock n Rolla !

  23. #223
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    Exclamation Carnage

    Well, the Rally has seen its first bit of carnage. This happened shortly after making the vid. I was running with the body off to try and compare motor temps and lost it on the bend you see in the video. Needless to say I collided with the drain hole kind of head on.

    As you can see my XO-1 foam bumper has been destroyed...not to bad but I will have to replace it.
    =====

    =====
    =====
    I will keep this trashed foam bumper as a reference marker now for when I profile the new bumper to shape. A close up, a nice clean break...it certainly did its job.
    =====

    =====
    =====
    Here you can see where the front right arms mounting hole has been torn from the hinge pin...I was just over 1/2 throttle when I lost it. (Sorry for the poor quality pic)
    =====

    =====
    =====
    A close up of the carnage...I was really disappointed but only have myself to blame for my carelessness. Fortunately for me I have a complete set of arms as I had bought a 2nd set waiting so long for my first set to arrive. A clean rip right through.
    =====

    =====
    =====
    The front body mount support and skid plate has also been damaged and will need replacing. For now I can still use as is until the replacement parts arrive.
    =====

    =====
    =====
    My beautiful dyed chassis is showing some pretty good scratch marks from loosing control and driving up the pavement with the chassis been so low to the ground...My Rally wasn't meant to be wrapped in cotton wool so I am driving it like I stole it! I am having a lot of fun with my Rally so far.
    =====

    =====
    =====
    The chassis brace certainly did its job...I am happy with the money spent getting the brace as without it I am sure I would of snapped my chassis .
    Last edited by MITCH316; 04-04-2013 at 07:31 PM. Reason: Added info.
    Rock n Rolla !

  24. #224
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    You're build looks great! I especially like the paint job!

  25. #225
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    I have followed this build from the beginning and the work you've done is great. My Rally is sitting in my workspace now waiting for another chassis to arrive from a bit of over-bashing. After that I'm going to start my build as I now have a pretty good idea of how I want mine to perform. I will be borrowing many of your ideas and parts preferences. I'm hesitant to go the route you did with the motor/ESC/servos for now simply because I'd lose the water-proofing that I have needed since I've owned it.

    Hope you get it back up and running soon. It took so long to build that thing, and it's shelved in the blink of an eye

  26. #226
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    Yep, me too. God and I just got back into another spartan build.

    Quote Originally Posted by ControlledWithRemote View Post
    Beautiful! This inspired me to build my own 1/10 rally.

  27. #227
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    Mitch,

    You have inspired me to do my own rally build, but i have a couple questions, why did you chose to use X0-1 parts as opposed to the Traxxas Accessories parts available for the Rally? The only thing i can think of is that you want larger, beefier bearings, and drive train equipments, my concern here is weight. Could you have gotten away with use the Accessories for the Rally, made and intended for the Rally by Traxxas (this is reference the x01 parts only, not other parts that traxxas does not build for the Rally - i.e. Tekno parts)? Would you also be better off replacing the bearings with Boca Bearings Hybrid Ceramic bearings, or full ceramic bearing (yes i know their cost is sky high, but, then you could use the smaller Rally accessories without adding weight or width, and lessen drive train resistance, and thus drive train wear).

    Also, how rally-able is your can now given the body chosen? It doesn't seem to have the clearance of the stock one, however the stock body looks totally lame. I love your choice. Can I ask where you purchased the majority of your parts from to complete this conversion. Lastly, can you use the wheel and tires from the slash be use on the rally?

    Thanks,

    John

  28. #228
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    Quote Originally Posted by SH302 View Post
    You're build looks great! I especially like the paint job!
    Thanks mate...I took my time this time round spraying a body, it took a good few hours to prep.

    Quote Originally Posted by RoaRk View Post
    I have followed this build from the beginning and the work you've done is great. My Rally is sitting in my workspace now waiting for another chassis to arrive from a bit of over-bashing. After that I'm going to start my build as I now have a pretty good idea of how I want mine to perform. I will be borrowing many of your ideas and parts preferences. I'm hesitant to go the route you did with the motor/ESC/servos for now simply because I'd lose the water-proofing that I have needed since I've owned it.

    Hope you get it back up and running soon. It took so long to build that thing, and it's shelved in the blink of an eye
    Thanks mate...The ESC is a MM2 so its water resistant...unfortunately the servo is not but that's OK as I do not plan on playing in any wet conditions with this rig. I could water proof the servo with liquid tape or plastidip if I wanted to.

    The Rally is up and running...I had spare arms, I will use the broken XO-1 foam bumper and bumper mount until the replacements arrive.

    I will be going in the next couple hours to give the Rally another test drive with some new settings. Hopefully I will get someone to film a short clip of the Rally in action.

    I am glad you have found the info provided useful...good luck with your build mate .
    Rock n Rolla !

  29. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHIFTT IX MR View Post
    Mitch,

    You have inspired me to do my own rally build
    I am glad to hear that mate, I was inspired by Humayray to do this build .

    Quote Originally Posted by SHIFTT IX MR View Post
    i have a couple questions, why did you chose to use X0-1 parts as opposed to the Traxxas Accessories parts available for the Rally? The only thing i can think of is that you want larger, beefier bearings, and drive train equipments, my concern here is weight. Could you have gotten away with use the Accessories for the Rally, made and intended for the Rally by Traxxas (this is reference the x01 parts only, not other parts that traxxas does not build for the Rally - i.e. Tekno parts)? Would you also be better off replacing the bearings with Boca Bearings Hybrid Ceramic bearings, or full ceramic bearing (yes i know their cost is sky high, but, then you could use the smaller Rally accessories without adding weight or width, and lessen drive train resistance, and thus drive train wear).
    You are spot on mate...I went with the XO-1 parts for the bigger bearings and to be able to use the XO-1 17mm hex adapters. I am not sure if they would work with the Tekno stub axles. I am also using the ProTrac arms which have given me extra length over stock...I could of just used Tekno kit with the extra length dog bone made for the ProTrac arms, but as said, I wanted bigger bearings and also be able to use the XO-1 17mm hex adapters; as I am running this rig on 4s a beefier drive train was needed.

    The Castle Combo of motor and ESC has added some weight to my Rally but is still a lot lighter than my other trucks. This Rally flies as is at the moment and is fast enough for me.

    I can't justify buying ceramic bearings as the cost is too high. I have 4 rigs including the Rally so bearings are all similar sizes so I have lots of spares.

    Quote Originally Posted by SHIFTT IX MR View Post
    Also, how rally-able is your can now given the body chosen? It doesn't seem to have the clearance of the stock one, however the stock body looks totally lame. I love your choice. Can I ask where you purchased the majority of your parts from to complete this conversion.
    My car can't really go off road or on jumps as I have limited my shocks so I have lowered my chassis to the ground...my idea was to have a street machine that was able to power slide (drift) while cornering. The couple times I have run my Rally it has been a blast.

    I got all my parts off various eBay sellers and direct from STRC and Axis R/C for the chassis brace.

    Quote Originally Posted by SHIFTT IX MR View Post
    Lastly, can you use the wheel and tires from the slash be use on the rally?

    Thanks,

    John
    You could use those wheels...you wouldn't need a 17mm hex adapter like I used. I hope I have answered your questions mate...thanks for the feedback; I appreciate it .
    Rock n Rolla !

  30. #230
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    This build is my favorite build ever, such a great job and great description on every part. thanks so much for taking the time to do this, I will be building one as well, strictly for on-road and this will be my guide. (subscribed)

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  31. #231
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    Mitch, What would be the major difference between the Slick tires and the threaded ones?
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  32. #232
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoxhoundEP3 View Post
    Mitch, What would be the major difference between the Slick tires and the threaded ones?
    More road contact with the slicks = more grip!

  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoxhoundEP3 View Post
    This build is my favorite build ever, such a great job and great description on every part. thanks so much for taking the time to do this, I will be building one as well, strictly for on-road and this will be my guide.
    Thanks for the feedback mate....

    Quote Originally Posted by FoxhoundEP3 View Post
    Mitch, What would be the major difference between the Slick tires and the threaded ones?
    Quote Originally Posted by RoaRk View Post
    More road contact with the slicks = more grip!
    As RoaRk said, they have more grip. The sweeps I am using have impressed me...they get super sticky once hot. I'll definitely get myself another set once these wear. Another good practice I have got into is swapping front and rear wheels around every couple battery runs on my rigs, this is to allow for even wear of the tyres.
    Rock n Rolla !

  34. #234
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    Cool How to Understand Gearing.

    I have had a PM on this and thought I would answer it in my thread. This info below is not mine but I used it myself to understand the whole concept of MOD 1 vs MOD 0.8 gears.

    Gear Pitch:
    Gear pitch indicates the size of the gear’s teeth; the larger the pitch, the smaller the teeth. A lot of RC fans probably don’t know how pitch is determined or why a large pitch number equates to small tooth size.

    Pitch (specifically known as the pitch diameter) actually refers to the number of teeth that can fit around a 1 inch diameter (specifically known as the pitch diameter). A tooth size that permits 48 teeth to encircle a 1 inch gear is 48 pitch. To have 64 teeth on the same 1 inch gear, the teeth must be smaller, and that explains why 64 pitch gear teeth are significantly smaller or finer than 48 pitch.

    The pitch of the gears in your car has no effect on the ratio. 100 tooth spur/20 tooth pinion combination is a 5:1 ratio whether you use 32, 48, or 64 pitch gears. That said, certain gear pitches are better suited to certain applications.

    METRIC PITCH:
    A common cause of some gearing confusion is what’s called “Metric Pitch” gears. The correct term in these metric application isn’t pitch, it’s module. The problems arise when people mistakenly believe these gears are compatible with “American” gears. Always use metric pinions with metric spurs. While the pitch is close to 48 and 64 pitch, they are not interchangeable; 0.8 module, however, is compatible with standard 32 pitch.

    METRIC vs STANDARD:
    • 1 module (MOD 1) is mathematically equivalent to 25.4 pitch
    • 0.8 module (MOD 0.8) is mathematically equivalent to 31.75 pitch, which is close enough to 32 pitch.

    Under gearing will overheat the ESC
    Over gearing will overheat the motor

    The sweet spot = same temps on ESC and Motor
    Rock n Rolla !

  35. #235
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    ^ Thanks a lot for this write up!

  36. #236
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    Nice gearing guide mate.
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  37. #237
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    Cool RaceTemp Gauge.

    I have been waiting sometime for this to arrive and was hoping it would be here before my first test run.

    This is the RaceTemp gauge and is a quick, easy and efficient way for monitoring motor temps without a temp gun...It is accurate within a few degrees of actual temperature. The Temp Gauge has a very good sticky adhesive which has stuck well to my rigs motors so far on my eRevo and eSlayer.

    The ReceTemp Gauge is available from RaceTemp.com. To get one like mine you need to request via email after your purchase for the lower temp range gauge.
    =====

    =====
    =====
    This is how I stuck mine on to my motor.
    =====

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    How to read:
    Green indicates actual temperature.

    As rated temperature is reached, indicator changes from black to:

    *Green bar indicates actual temperature reading.
    *Brown bar indicates temperature reading just above actual reading.
    *Blue bar indicates temperature reading just below actual reading.

    I find that the temp gauge works extremely well and unit measurements are in °C and °F. The °C only become visible when the bar is colour coded.

    After giving my Rally a test to find out the actual temps, my suspicions were right. I gauged the temps to be between 66° and 75°C. The RaceTemp indicated that my Rally was reaching 72°C running 19/38 MOD1 gearing. By the time I snapped the photo the motor had stated cooling down and is starting to indicate 66°C
    =====

    =====
    =====
    This temp was still to hot for my liking so I have now re geared my Rally to 19/40 MOD1. I'll do some more running with this gearing and see where my motor temps are sitting at .
    Rock n Rolla !

  38. #238
    RC Qualifier
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    Dec 2012
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    Sweden
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    Smart temp gauge.

    Another thing. Why not 100% brake?
    Rally
    Slash 4x4 Platinum x2
    Stampede 4x4 VXL

  39. #239
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
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    Australia
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    3,255
    Quote Originally Posted by Sverige View Post
    Another thing. Why not 100% brake?
    Are you referring to my braking % been set at 60%? The MM2 comes stock with braking % set at 50%. In my experience with my eRevo I had to lower braking % because the truck would always flip onto it roof while braking. Not knowing much about the Rally when I built it I naturally assumed the same so I left it at stock setting of 50%.

    On my first test run the Rally was taking to long to stop so adjusting the braking % to 60% has set it similar to my other trucks. I may change this to 65% but I feel at 100% this will be too much although I haven't tested; in my experience setting braking % too high is not a good thing as other problems arise...such as stripped diffs, flipping onto its roof etc.

    The Temp gauge works really well for me. Since building my Rally I really haven't had a chance to use it much, or my other RC trucks. Hopefully in the next couple weeks I will get a chance to run 2 battery packs through my Rally in 1 day .
    Rock n Rolla !

  40. #240
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. humayrayakongkinaon's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Long Beach, California
    Posts
    6,451
    hi there mate!! I put back my MMM/2200 on my Rally GT8 today and my motor temp stays at 140-145 degrees geared it 20t/36t, my ESC didn't come on either within 5mins of running.
    | Rally GT8 Powered By CC | BackSl4sh Roadrunner |

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