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  1. #121
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Cool Servo.

    I'm running a Savox servo in my rally...I've given it a preliminary test to see if all working before I installed.

    Savox SA 1258TG...this pic didn't come out as well as I would of liked.
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    And here installed...it's a nice snug fit...I was going to use a spare Ofna servo horn but was too long and required some mods...I've ended up using the stock servo horn and servo linkage for now.
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    Description

    The SC1258TG combines leading edge technology with super high 12-bit (4096) resolution and titanium and aluminum gears for one amazing servo! With titanium and aluminum gears, this servo is truly magical. Pushing 167 ounces of torque and a blistering .08 transit time, this servo is redefining what an all-around servo should be capable of. This is a great upgrade to most comparably priced servos.

    Features:
    • Combines leading edge technology with super high 12 bit (4096) resolution and titanium gears.
    • Super light-weight.
    • Coreless motor provides high speed, incredible efficiency, and low power consumption.
    • Extremely strong titanium gears ensure long-life and durability.
    • The aluminum case design not only looks good but also allows for cooler and smoother operating temps.
    • Our servos are totally green – from materials to production, these servos are environmentally friendly.
    • Ideal for CCPM on 600 and 700 class heli, steering servo on 1/10 scale buggies.


    Dimensions(mm): 40.3x20.2x37.2
    Weight(g): 52.4
    Speed(@4.8V sec/60): .10
    Torque(@4.8V oz-in): 133.3
    Speed(@6.0V sec/60): .08
    Torque(@6.0V oz-in): 166.6
    Gear: Titanium & Aluminum
    Bearing: 2BB
    Case: Aluminum
    25 Tooth Spline
    Rock n Rolla !

  2. #122
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Cool Centre driveshaft.

    I've decided to run the Tekno big bone centre driveshaft on my build. What I like about this driveshaft is that it is solid and beefy in construction...it looks a lot stronger than stock. This is a relatively easy install.

    Tekno big bone center driveshaft TKR6855...this pic didn't come out as well as I would of liked.
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    The big bone came with no installation instructions so I was stumped what the o-rings were for. This is the only place I could think of where they went...I may be wrong. I used 2 o-rings per outdrive cup as shown.
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    Here assembled to the input shaft and ready to be installed.
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    I also ended up putting 2 o-rings behind the slipper so it was a nice snug fit once installed.
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    The input shaft in position and ready to install the centre driveshaft.
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    And here the Tekno big bone centre driveshaft in place.
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    Product Description

    The Tekno RC Big Bone Driveshaft and Outdrives for the Slash 4×4 and Stampede 4×4 solves the many issues associated with the stock center driveline. First off it’s FAT! Yet it’s still extremely lightweight.

    It’s a dog bone rather than a simple splined shaft and as such will not bind, split, or bend the way the stock shaft does. The laser etched shaft is machined from high quality aluminum and anodized for incredible wear. Newly designed hardened steel outdrives on either end replace the weaker stock parts for the ultimate center driveline available for the Slash 4×4 and Stampede 4×4 vehicles.

    So yeah, it’s a ‘must have’ for any racer or basher. Another rock solid upgrade from Tekno RC!

    Features:

    • FAT, Big Bone shaft is much stronger than stock
    • Dog bone design will not bind, split, or bend like the stock unit
    • Lightweight aluminum shaft, hardened steel outdrives
    • Laser etched and black anodized for wear


    Big Bone Center Shaft Parts List:
    TKR6855 - complete kit (Slash 4×4)
    TKR68551 - rear outdrive
    TKR68552 - front outdrive
    TKR68553 -> center shaft (Slash 4×4)
    Last edited by MITCH316; 03-17-2013 at 08:25 PM. Reason: Added info.
    Rock n Rolla !

  3. #123
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. humayrayakongkinaon's Avatar
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    i like how you build your stuff mate, you put upgrade parts before you run it you sure are a tinkerer lol..... looking good.
    | Rally GT8 Powered By CC |_________________ |

  4. #124
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    +1 too that. Nice one mate. Almost there.
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  5. #125
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by humayrayakongkinaon View Post
    i like how you build your stuff mate, you put upgrade parts before you run it you sure are a tinkerer lol..... looking good.
    Cheers mate...I love upgrades.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mugs View Post
    +1 too that. Nice one mate. Almost there.
    Coming together now mate .
    Rock n Rolla !

  6. #126
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    My build progress so far...After seeing the shocks in resting position...I started tinkering around with the rear shocks last night. I think I need to limit them more as I am not going for the stock rally suspension look.

    Front View...(sorry for the poor quality pics)
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    Rear View
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    I am really enjoying the look that is starting to take shape on my build...it's all coming together now and looking good .
    Rock n Rolla !

  7. #127
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Cool Power Plant System.

    As said in my previous posts that this rig is going to run the MM2 with the 1515/1Y-2200kV Neu Motor.

    I love this combo on my eRevo and has proven itself a worthy combo for running 6s (2/3s) in my book. I am looking forward to giving this beast a burn on 4s in my Rally, as the Rally is way lighter than the eRevo, so hopefully this perform well being lighter in weight.

    I have only ran MOD 1 20/38 gearing in my eSlayer Pro 4x4 with the Hobbywing XERUN 2000KV Brushless Motor & EZRUN WP SC8 120A ESC combo. My eSlayer has unbelievable amount of torque...the top end is a lot slower than MOD 0.8 20/54 gearing but makes up with the beastly torque this truck pushes out.

    For my Rally I am going to start off with MOD 1 21/36...I am aiming for good top end with torque to match. I am hoping for enough grunt to be able to drift this rig at will. I will need to test these settings to find a happy medium for both top end and torque.

    MM2 with the 1515/1Y-2200kV Neu Motor
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    My first impressions of the new MM2 is its a very nice sleek design. I really do like they look at feel it is an improvement over the original MM. It also came with a set of wire to be soldered on your choice of motor if needed...these will be kept as spare if ever needed.
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    Just a little bit of info...this was on the underside of the ESC.
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    I also ended up making an ESC mounting plate for the MM2 to rest on. I used some 2mm thk scrap aluminium that we had lying around in the workshop. I marked the shape of the ESC and hack sawed to suit.
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    And here the ESC mounting place cut to size...I am using servo tape to fasten the ESC to the aluminium plate.
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    I used 2 pieces of servo tape stuck on top of each other in between the ESC and aluminium plate. This was needed for the totake up the gap in the ESC mounting plate TRA5626...I used a spare one that I had for my eRevo.
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    I ended up using 1 traxxas male connector (TRA3070) for the ESC. There is just a single battery connection as I plan on running 1 4s batt for this rig.
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    DESCRIPTION: MAMBA MONSTER 2

    QUICK START GUIDE IMPORTANT:
    You must calibrate your radio to the ESC!

    1. Install the ESC
    • Solder a high quality battery connector to the ESC. Mount the ESC and motor into the vehicle
    • Plug in the 3 motor wires to the ESC
    • Plug in the ESC Rx lead to CH2 on your receiver
    • Make sure the ESC’s switch is off



    2. Calibrate the radio transmitter
    • Plug in a battery
    • Holding full throttle on your transmitter, turn the switch ON
    • After a few seconds you’ll hear multiple tones and the red LED will come on
    • Now hold full brake and after a few seconds you’ll hear multiple tones and the yellow LED will come on
    • Now relax to neutral and after a few seconds you’ll hear multiple tones and ALL the LEDs will light up.
    • A few seconds later the ESC will arm with a double tone and you’re ready to go!



    CARE AND FEEDING OF YOUR MAMBA MONSTER 2:
    Limits:
    Mamba Monster 2 is incredibly powerful, but know his limits. 6S (25.2 volts) is the max input voltage!

    BEC:
    Monster 2 has an adjustable BEC with a default output value of 5.5V.

    Connectors:
    Mamba Monster 2 needs lots of power. Please use connectors such as large bullets (6.5mm), Deans®, or Traxxas® TRX® connectors to connect Monster 2 to your batteries.

    Batteries:
    Mamba Monster 2 needs lots of power. You must only use batteries that are capable of delivering bursts of more than 125 amps and which can sustain continuous outputs of 100 amps. Anything less will only lead to a frustrating ride with the Monster.

    Expect to upgrade your vehicle’s drive system. You can always wait until Monster 2 shreds the parts, but then you’ll be stuck at the track with no ride. That’s no fun.

    Monster 2 powered systems are capable of producing incredibly high power. That means the vehicles can go stupidly fast. Please never point a Monster 2 powered vehicle at anyone, always stay clear of the tires, and keep your hands and feet inside the ride at all times!

    CASTLE LINK
    Your Monster 2 is ready to run right out of the box. However, you may find that you’d like to change a few settings, such as the low voltage cutoff or perhaps you’d like to adjust the throttle or braking curves. You can do all of these things with the Castle Link USB Adapter (a coupon is included in your packaging) and your Windows PC (not included).

    Please visit www.castlecreations.com/downloads to download the latest version of the Castle Link software.

    DO THE MATH!
    Not all LiPos are created equal, and surge ratings should never be used to determine a pack’s
    suitability for a brushless application. Use the CONTINUOUS C rating only.

    We suggest that you choose a pack that can deliver more amperage than the drive system
    draws. More “headroom” between the C rating and the actual amp draw offers better reliability. We recommend that you have at least a 20% reserve margin for best results.
    Using insufficient battery packs WILL shorten the life of this controller.

    Here’s an example:
    5,000 mAh pack = 5Ah
    5 x 25C = 125 amps
    125 x 80% = 100 amps max continuous rating necessary!

    Look at it another way.
    Mamba Monster setups frequently hit 100+ amps in peaks. We strongly suggest using
    5,000 mAh or larger LiPo cells with a discharge rating of at least 30C (or high quality 25C
    batteries such as Traxxas® Power Cells®). Our experience suggests using only mild gear
    ratios with NiMH cells. Do not attempt to use NiMH cells in extreme setups

    MAMBA MONSTER 2 ERROR CODES

    • GREEN/YELLOW FLASHING ESC input voltage is below the operating limit (drained battery)
    • RED/YELLOW/GREEN FLASHING Sudden and extreme rise in temperature (possibly over-geared)
    • RED/YELLOW FLASHING ESC temperature above the operating limit (possibly over-geared)
    • RED/GREEN FLASHING BEC temperature above the operating limit (possibly damaged servo)
    • RED/YELLOW/GREEN FLASHING AND BEEPING ESC is not detecting a valid signal from the receiver
    Last edited by MITCH316; 03-19-2013 at 12:21 AM. Reason: Added Info.
    Rock n Rolla !

  8. #128
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Cool CC Filed link programmer.

    I believe this is a must have when you start running Lipos in your truck. It allows you to customise your ESC settings.

    Here is a link to the CASTLE LINK GUIDE.

    The Castle Link and Field Link Programmer do the exact same thing when plugged into your PC as they use the same software programme...the only difference is the field programmer lets you adjust some settings on the fly...eg. if you were out bashing you could access your Brake strength and Punch control; this is very easily done with the the CC Filed link programmer.

    This is what the CC Filed link programmer looks like.


    I have hooked up to my MM2 and have changed a few settings:
    I am running the latest firmware - V 3.53.13

    Basic Settings:
    • Cutoff Voltage - Auto LiPo
    • Auto LiPo Volts/Cell (LVC) - 3.4v per cell
    • Reverse Type - With Reverse
    • Motor Direction - Normal
    • Motor Type - Brushless
    • Power-On Warning Beep - Beep Enable
    • Brake Amount - 50%
    • Drag Brake - 5% Custom


    Power Settings:
    • Max Forward - 100%
    • Max Reverse - 35%
    • Punch Control - 0% Disabled
    • Torque Limit - 0% Disabled


    Advanced
    I leave at default

    Throttle & Brake Curves
    I set mine exponential...I like to soften my throttle and brake curve

    BEC
    I have set my ESC to to 6 volts.

    Remember to hit update for the settings to take effect.
    Rock n Rolla !

  9. #129
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Cool Transnmitter binding to receiver (Tx to Rx)

    I had to recently do this to link my Rally to my transmitter...for those who don't know this is how its done.

    Note: the receiver must be connected to a 4.8-6.0v (nominal) power source for binding and the transmitter and receiver must be within 5 feet of each other.

    1. Press and hold the transmitter’s SET button as you switch transmitter on. The transmitter’s LED will flash red slowly. Release the SET button
    2. Press and hold the receiver’s LINK button as you switch on the speed control by pressing the EZ-Set button. Release the LINK button.
    3. When the transmitter and receiver’s LEDs turn solid green, the system is bound and ready for use. Confirm that the steering and throttle operate properly before driving your model.


    Automatic Fail-Safe:

    The TQ 2.4GHz transmitter and receiver are equipped with an automatic fail-safe system that does not required user programming. In the event of signal loss or interference, the throttle will return to neutral and the steering will hold it's last commanded position. If Fail-Safe activates while you are operating your model, determine the reason for the signal loss & resolve the problem before operating your model again.

    Rx channel
    1a. Steering
    1b. Open steering
    2. ESC
    3. ESC Fan
    4. Glitch Buster
    5. Open
    Rock n Rolla !

  10. #130
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    Cool Throttle Neutral Adjustment 50/50 or 70/30 setting.

    I haven't mentioned this before but I use the 70/30 setting on my Tx...I like the wide range of throttle control you get and I personally prefer the 70/30 setting over the 50/50. I use 70/30 on all my rigs except for my Summit which is still on 50/50, but doesn't really matter as it has its on Tx.

    Setting your throttle end points.
    The throttle neutral adjustment is located on the transmitter face and controls the forward/reverse travel of the throttle trigger. Change the adjustment by pressing the button and sliding it to the desired position.

    There are two settings available:
    50/50: Allows equal travel for both acceleration and reverse.
    70/30: Allows more throttle travel (70%) and less reverse travel (30%).

    1. Install the batteries of your choice in the battery compartments and plug the batteries into the speed control.
    2. Switch on your transmitter.
    3. Hold full throttle while you switch on the Mamba Monster controller. After a few seconds, you will hear multiple tones and the RED LED will light.
    4. Hold full brake. After a few seconds, you will hear multiple tones and the YELLOW LED will light.
    5. Release the trigger to the neutral position. After a few seconds, you will hear multiple tones and ALL THE LEDs will light.
    6. Wait a few more seconds for the speed control to ‘arm,’ indicated by a double-tone. You are now ready to drive.
    Rock n Rolla !

  11. #131
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    Nice thread! Very informative & technical! Now I'm really looking forward so seeing this beast run!

    AB
    I'll try anything once, maybe twice!

  12. #132
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aburg2 View Post
    Nice thread! Very informative & technical! Now I'm really looking forward so seeing this beast run!

    AB
    Cheers mate...I appreciate the feedback . I too am looking forward to giving this rig a good little blast. It's coming together nicely now .
    Rock n Rolla !

  13. #133
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. DiggerPede's Avatar
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    You might be running your MMM v2 before I do mine. LOL I like running 70/30 on my Slash. Works great on throttle control.

    Keep up the good work man.
    Weak Revenge
    Strong Forgive
    Intelligent Ignore

  14. #134
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Cool Glitch buster.

    Again I apologies in advance for the poor quality photos in this section.

    Quote Originally Posted by DiggerPede View Post
    I run a couple of the 1258TG Savox servos and they are beasts. I totally recommend them. You might need a glitch buster depending on which ESC you go with.
    Quote Originally Posted by RC-Fan View Post
    1258 is great crazy fast, but it needs a glitch buster, also all savox are noisy.
    Well guys...it turns out I need a glitch buster after all. I was hoping to get away with out one, even with the Castle MM2 internal BEC set to 6V I've experienced a lot of brown out issues with the ESC.

    None of my other trucks running Savox Servos required glitch busters...they all run on different ESC's to each other...I am starting to believe that the Castle MM has a weak internal voltage regulator.

    For the guys who aren't sure what glitching or brown outs are all about...Here is a demo and remedy for servo glitching...a more power hungry servo may require a bigger capacitor or may even need an external BEC to fix the problem.
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    Fortunately for me I had a glitch buster lying around from a previous build, I thought I may need one but the glitch buster made no difference...Its been lying around as a spare in my tool box until now.

    This is the Racers Edge glitch buster #2474
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    I had a hard time trying to find a suitable place for the glitch buster...I was restricted by the length of the wire and with the Rx box being located near the front shock tower I didn't have many options.

    I originally wanted to lie the glitch buster on its side on top of the Savox servo but couldn't reach...I also didn't feel like extending the wires either so I mounted the glitch buster vertically on top of the Savox servo.

    I used 2 pieces of servo tape stuck to each other to hold the glitch buster in place. It seemed more solid with the 2 pieces as opposed to 1.
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    The servo tape is pretty sticky stuff...the way the glitch buster is mounted its not going anywhere in a hurry . I am also trying to keep my wiring as neat as possible.
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    Rock n Rolla !

  15. #135
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Cool MM2 ESC mounting.

    I forgot to post this in the Power Plant System section at post #127.

    Here is a pic of the ESC mounted into position...you can see the mounting plate I made. It fits perfect with the 2 pieces of servo tape stuck on top of each other in between the ESC and aluminium plate.
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    This build is starting to take shape nicely now and is easily becoming my GEM out of all my rigs...I'm looking forward to giving this beast a good test run .
    Last edited by MITCH316; 03-19-2013 at 08:02 PM. Reason: re-worded.
    Rock n Rolla !

  16. #136
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. humayrayakongkinaon's Avatar
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    hey mate, did i miss the part about you posting that MMM2? NICE!!! i'm thinking of getting one of that for my 360mm XO-1, undecided what motor i'm going to put in.
    | Rally GT8 Powered By CC |_________________ |

  17. #137
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by humayrayakongkinaon View Post
    hey mate, did i miss the part about you posting that MMM2? NICE!!! i'm thinking of getting one of that for my 360mm XO-1, undecided what motor i'm going to put in.
    I bought 2 of these ESC's...one for my eRevo when I rebuild in a few months for its once a year major service...and what ever else needs to be replaced.

    Its a pity we not neighbours mate...I have a Tekin RX8 2000kv truggy motor you could test in that rig. I plan on putting it in my SlayVo build...I shelved the project till next year. I want to enjoy this Rally first; yours looks so awesome in your vids mate...that's what made me want to build mine ...very cool .
    Rock n Rolla !

  18. #138
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    Cool Pinion and spur gear mesh

    I used the paper method of gear mesh for a long time..Over time I've gotten pretty good at setting my gear mesh by lash now...For the guys who are new to this, the paper method is a good way to start out until your skills sharpen and gear mesh becomes more natural to you.

    I am staring out with MOD 1 21/36 gear setting...I'll see how this goes and adjust my gearing accordingly if need be.

    I start off by cutting a strip of paper slightly wider than my spur gear and roughly 15cm long.
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    I then fold the strip of paper in half...I like to use this thickness to set the spacing between my gear mesh.
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    I then feed between my spur and pinion and push together.
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    With even pressure I press the pinion and spur together and rotate the spur so the paper runs between the spur and pinion.
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    Once I am happy that the paper is running smoothly between the gears I fasten the motor into position and rotate the spur in the opposite direction to remove the paper.

    This is relatively easy and not much to it...as I said I have been using this method for a long time with great success
    Rock n Rolla !

  19. #139
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    Slipper Clutch Break-In

    This info is from the eRevo manual...because I am running the MM2 2000kc combo and slipper clutch I am posting this info here.

    The E-Revo Brushless Edition’s slipper clutch requires a break-in procedure to ensure consistent operation with the extremely high power output of the included Castle Creations Mamba Monster brushless motor system. The slipper clutch has been adjusted to the correct initial setting for break-in. Follow these steps to ensure maximum performance and life from your slipper clutch:

    1. Make your first runs with the model using the stock gearing and 6- or 7-cell NiMH packs, or 2S LiPo packs.
    2. Drive normally. The slipper clutch should slip momentarily when accelerating aggressively on high-traction surfaces (you will hear a whirring sound when the slipper clutch allows the spur gear to slip).
    3. If excessive slippage is noticed (slipping that lasts for more than 3 seconds under hard acceleration), or the slipper clutch slips any time the throttle is applied at any lever, stop driving immediately. Let the slipper clutch cool for 10-15 minutes. When the clutch is cool, test-drive the vehicle again. If you still experience excessive slippage, allow the slipper to cool once more, then tighten the slipper nut ¼ turn (turn the nut clockwise) and repeat the break-in process. Do not adjust the slipper clutch before it has cooled.
    4. Continue to run the vehicle and monitor slipper clutch performance as noted above, and readjust if necessary. When the run is complete, the slipper should be fully broken in.


    After break-in, the slipper clutch is ready for any type of driving, with any batteries up to 6S Lipo. Set the slipper clutch so it only slips for a moment (if at all) under hard acceleration in high traction
    conditions. If excessive slippage is noticed, stop driving immediately. Continuing to drive with a loose slipper will cause damage to the slipper unit. You must let the slipper cool down to ambient temperature before tightening the slipper nut and resuming driving.

    Rock n Rolla !

  20. #140
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Cool Shock limiter mod.

    After assembling the Rally and putting on the wheels I could see how the rear of the Rally was sitting way to high for what I was after. I had a feeling it would be, so I wasn't too dissapointed as I knew there would be a lot of fine tuning to achieve the end result.

    What I have done here is added some limiters into the rear shock to reduce rear shock travel and limit overall suspension height. I originally tried this mod in my eSlayer Pro 4x4 to limit shock travel using pushrod spacers and blue shock bumper as seen below thanks to Cameron...The pushrod spacers weren't an exact slip on fit with this mod but the movement was minimal.
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    I re-thought this mod and thought that caster spacers from my eRevo would be a better fit. I used the round ones and drilled the centre with a 3.5mm drill bit so it was a nice snug fit on the shock shaft.
    Caster spacers #5134
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    I added 3 castor spacers on top of the stock 2 that came supplied with the shocks.
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    This added a total limit of 9mm to the rear shocks.
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    I may need to come back to this mod once I have the body on to see if I need to limit the shocks any more.
    Rock n Rolla !

  21. #141
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiggerPede View Post
    You might be running your MMM v2 before I do mine. LOL I like running 70/30 on my Slash. Works great on throttle control.

    Keep up the good work man.
    Cheers mate...I'm hoping to have this beast up and running in the next couple weeks...the 70/30 setting is so awesome for throttle control .
    Rock n Rolla !

  22. #142
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    Cool Chassis Brace.

    I am using the Axis R/C chassis brace on this build...after seeing it in a few other build threads and a few other Rally's with snapped chassis from frontal impact, I thought to myself that this is a must have for my build.

    The chassis brace was a mission for me to get living in Australia as at the time of purchase no shipping to Australia was available...I see on their website that shipping to Australia is now available after complaining about this to them.

    The chassis brace is an awesome design, lightweight and has a sleek look and feel to it...it certainly looks like it will help with any chassis flex too.

    Axis R/C chassis brace

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    And here installed in place.
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    Rear View
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    Rock n Rolla !

  23. #143
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    This is read in conjunction with post #140.

    Here is a side view to show you how my limiters have effected ride height.
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    =====
    I am still not happy with this and will probably re-look this mod...I probably could add another limiter to each of the rear shocks...these are the XO-1 front wheels all round on my Rally.

    The limiters I added are 2mm thick.
    =====
    Last edited by MITCH316; 03-20-2013 at 08:59 PM. Reason: Spelling.
    Rock n Rolla !

  24. #144
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Cool PROTOform PF8-GT body.

    As I mentioned in the beginning of this build that I am running my Rally with the PROTOform PF8-GT body. After seeing Humayrays rig in action, I knew that the Rally was the next build for me.

    PROTOform PF8-GT #1503-00...Untrimmed.
    =====


    I am getting more excited as this build is progressing...
    Rock n Rolla !

  25. #145
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. humayrayakongkinaon's Avatar
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    i just love build thread like this mate. that XO wheels looks awesome.
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  26. #146
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. DiggerPede's Avatar
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    Man it looks good! I really dig that PF body. Maybe once I bust up my other shells that will be my next option.
    Weak Revenge
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  27. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by humayrayakongkinaon View Post
    i just love build thread like this mate. that XO wheels looks awesome.
    Thanks mate...I see what you mean by wheel rub on the body...and because the rims have an offset my wheel base is pushed out even further.

    Quote Originally Posted by DiggerPede View Post
    Man it looks good! I really dig that PF body. Maybe once I bust up my other shells that will be my next option.
    Thanks mate...hopefully will get around to spraying the body this weekend .
    Rock n Rolla !

  28. #148
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Cool Shock Springs.

    I have been stumped on what shock springs to use for this build. I tried a number of eRevo springs on the Slash's GTR shocks...but because of the overall length of the rear shock, I had to wind the preload all the way to the bottom of the shock case which I didn't like.

    With the shocks being limited the way they are, I probably could have gone with the eRevo shocks, but at the end of the day this build was to use Rally parts where possible...with the way I have my rally setup now, I have the flexibility of turning this into an offroad vehicle if I choose later on down the track with full suspension travel.

    I ended up settling on the Losi springs for my GTR shocks. The front and rear are different lengths and suit the Slash's GTR shocks perfectly.

    There weren't many options for the Losi springs but I ended up getting a set of these for front and rear shocks.

    Front shocks LOSB2959...I just made a note for myself on the spring rates.
    =====

    =====
    =====
    Rear shocks LOSB2963
    =====

    =====
    =====
    Front spring set includes four different spring rates for tunability:
    • 3.6 (Green)
    • 3.9 (Blue)
    • 4.2 (Black)
    • 4.5 (Purple)


    Rear spring set includes four different spring rates for tunability:
    • 2.7 (Red)
    • 3.0 (Orange)
    • 3.3 (Silver)
    • 3.6 (Green)


    These springs are stiffer than the springs that were available previously, and feature progressive dampening characteristics that helps to resist bottoming out. This package includes four sets of shock springs, providing an increased level of tuning options for various track conditions.


    I have decided to use Green springs all round...as said before I am trying to stiffen up the front suspension over the rear to help my Rally drift.

    The other thing to note is that the spring rates given don't marry up to the eRevo spring rates when compared together...I am not sure what unit of measure the Losi spring rates are measured in; they are a lot softer than the eRevos equivalent spring rate.
    Rock n Rolla !

  29. #149
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    This thread is what motivated me to make my GT8. You are awesome in providing us with this much information.

  30. #150
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Cool Suspension setup.

    Alright...this is my take and understanding of suspension setup, there is a TON of information on suspension out there because in RC (and in real racing) suspension pretty much makes or breaks a good setup.

    There’s a lot that happens to your shocks and springs when you drift and without been to technical, and again, its also dependant on your chassis. A lot of the times, setups are very subjective. What works for one person doesn’t always works for another.

    Shocks aka “Dampers”.
    For drifting, you typically want your rear suspension “softer” than your front...the below explanation is for a drift style setup.

    • Get soft springs. Springs come in different spring rates. The lower the spring rate, the less weight is needed to compress that spring. In other words, springs with lower rates are softer. Many companies colour code, so pay attention to what you are buying.
    • Use lighter shock oil in the rear. Shock oil is measured by “weight”. The higher the number, the heavier the oil. Meaning that a heavier oil will make the shock piston compress slower.

    A typical shock setup looks like this:
    • Soft springs all the way around
    • 35 to 40 wt in the front
    • 15 to 25 wt in the rear.


    Some guys like to use the same shock oil all the way around, and change the springs in the front to a stiffer spring. On my build I have controlled this with the VDK piston kit putting the smaller holed piston in the front. This has stiffened up my front suspension for compression and a slower rebound than the rear. I have maintained the same weight shock oil front and rear with the same spring rate front and rear...I will still need to test this to see if I have reached my desired result for suspension setting.

    Since suspension tuning has so many dynamics to this, you should understand that shocks and springs work opposite of each other.

    When a shock compresses, the spring is resisting the compression and wants to rebound. The damper controls how fast your suspension will compress, while the spring determines how fast your suspension will rebound when weight is transferred.

    This sentence sums how suspensions works really well: “Springs may dictate HOW MUCH weight is transferred, dampers dictate HOW and WHEN that weight is transferred.”

    Springs.
    As long as they are soft, it doesn’t matter what brand or type you have. Springs all work the same. They compress and rebound and give similar results. Don’t feel the spring to test the softness...look at the spring rate.

    Shock Positions.
    From my understanding you usually want the shock more upright in the rear, and more “laid out” or angled towards the centre of the chassis in the front. Simple as that.

    Ride Height vs. Droop (sag).
    Guys get this mixed up all the time. First, they are not the same, but they are related. Ride height is exactly what it sounds like. It’s how high the bottom of your chassis is from the ground standing still. Low ride height means lowered centre of gravity, and it usually means better handling and and less body roll. To adjust your ride height, I simply added limiters inside the shock. You can also change shock positions, but doing so affects how your shocks work.

    Droop (sag) is something different, it is the amount of upward or downward travel of your suspension above or below your ride height. The purpose of droop is to help with the weight transfer from front to rear when on throttle or braking. Say that your car is under steering when you let off on the throttle in a turn. What the chassis is doing at this moment is shifting the weight from the rear of the car to the front (imagine coming to a dead stop after going 60mph at a stop sign). When this happens, the rear end lifts a little. By adding more droop (sag) to the rear (letting your suspension have more upward travel), more weight is transferred to the front tires, giving it more steering and grip, and lessening the load on the rear.

    The springs pre-load tension can be adjusted by turning the spring pre-load adjuster. Adjusting the pre-load changes the suspension droop (sag). Suspension droop (sag) basically defines how much the suspension compresses when the truck is at rest. If suspension droop (sag) is severe and requires a large increase of the spring pre-load to compensate, then a firmer spring should be used.
    Last edited by MITCH316; 03-22-2013 at 12:04 AM. Reason: Added info.
    Rock n Rolla !

  31. #151
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Cool Toe In \ Toe Out.

    What is Toe In / Toe Out?

    Toe In / Toe Out describes the angle of the front (or rear) tires when viewed from above. If the front of the tires angles in (or towards the chassis), that is Toe In. If the front of the tires angles out (or away from the chassis), that is Toe Out.

    Tuning with Toe In / Toe Out
    Toe In / Toe Out can be adjusted to increase or decrease steering and steering response. You adjust Toe In / Toe Out by turning the turnbuckles attached to the steering knuckles or hub carriers.

    Front:
    Adding Toe In will decrease steering into a corner, but add steering out of a corner during acceleration. Toe In will also stabilise the car under acceleration. Toe Out will increase steering into a corner, but cause the car to wander a little on the straights and in bumpy sections. It is not normally suggested that you use more than 1° of Toe In or Toe Out.

    Rear:
    More Toe In results in less on-power steering and slightly more entering a corner. Less Toe In results in more on-power steering and slightly less entering a corner. Less Toe In will also increase staightaway speed, as the rear tires will scrub less.

    On the rear, there will always be Toe In or 0deg of Toe. You will never use Toe Out in the rear. On most cars, a Toe Block designates the degree of Toe, while others have turnbuckles to adjust (similar to the front). To change rear Toe, either adjust the turnbuckles or remove the Toe block and replace with another block.
    Rock n Rolla !

  32. #152
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Cool Camber.

    What is Camber?

    Camber is the angle of the tops of the wheels from straight up and down. Leaning in is Negative Camber, leaning out is Positive Camber.

    As a car turns, the chassis rolls. As the car rolls, this causes the tires to lean over towards the turn, causing less tire to come in contact with the ground (at 0° Camber). So to compensate, we add a few degrees of negative Camber. When the same car rolls, it rolls up on to the negative Cambered tire, now setting the tire at 0°, or the largest possible contact patch the tire can have. As we all know, the larger the contact patch, the more the tire is in contact with the ground, and the most possible traction you can have.

    Camber is usually adjusted by turnbuckles that pivot the wheel from the lower outer hinge pin.

    Tuning with Camber.
    Giving one end of the car less Camber gives that end less traction. For instance, if your car is loose (oversteer), you could either add a degree of rear Camber (recommended) or take out a degree of front Camber.

    On the front, I use roughly around 0 to -1° of Camber. There is a point where you can add TOO much front Camber. If so, steering will decrease as the tires will roll OVER the perfect contact patch area.

    On the rear, Camber affects two things. In a straight line, maximum acceleration is achieved with 0° of Camber. Adding Camber reduces forward traction slightly, but you will gain cornering grip. So, there is a fine line on rear Camber. Starting at about -1° camber is your best bet, and work from there.

    While positive Camber is not normally recommended, I have seen some off-roaders use it. This helps get traction to the INSIDE wheel while cornering. I haven’t used this myself, so I can’t tell you from experience if this is a good thing or a bad thing. -1° to -3° of negative Camber is what I use on most of my rigs.
    Rock n Rolla !

  33. #153
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    Thumbs up Great thread! :)

    Really good with all the info and your thoughts on toe in and camber (and everything else too)!
    Those who makes front suspension adjustment on cars here says there is no toe out. There's positive and negative toe in. Guess it's technicality.
    What about setting caster...?
    No, just kidding, you can't adjust it so easily...

    Just a little curious about 316...?
    Rally
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  34. #154
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stabone View Post
    This thread is what motivated me to make my GT8. You are awesome in providing us with this much information.
    I'm glad to hear mate...thanks for the feed back .

    Quote Originally Posted by Sverige View Post
    Really good with all the info and your thoughts on toe in and camber (and everything else too)!
    Those who makes front suspension adjustment on cars here says there is no toe out. There's positive and negative toe in. Guess it's technicality.
    What about setting caster...?
    No, just kidding, you can't adjust it so easily...

    Just a little curious about 316...?
    Cheers mate...I appreciate it.

    I've always known it as toe in or toe out...first I have heard of it been referred to as toe in positive or negative. Just goes to show, I am learning something new all the time .

    Caster...not sure how you would set that on the rally with the arms fixed to the chassis and the Steering C Hubs Axle Carriers and Caster Blocks fixed to the arms...I am sure with a bit of thought and creativity it is doable.

    I use caster on my eRevo and eSlayer Pro 4x4 all the time...I like mixing it up as every time I change it I have to learn how to drive my truck all over again .

    316...its from John 3:16...something my dad always mentioned to me through out my childhood...the 316 just stuck with me through out my adult life....
    Rock n Rolla !

  35. #155
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Cool Shock limiter mod revisited.

    This is read in conjunction with post #143. I revisited this mod last night and added some more limiters to the front and rear shocks.

    I stripped the rear shocks and removed one of the stock limiters and added it to the front shock...the stock limiters measure 1mm thick compared to my limiters that are 2mm thick.

    The front shock has now been limited by 2mm (1mm spacer gap + 1mm thk limiter).
    =====

    =====
    =====
    The rear shock has 1 stock and 4 of my limiters in...the rear shock has been limited by 10mm (1mm spacer gap + 1mm stock limiter + 8mm my limiters). It has been limited by 1mm further than before.
    =====
    Rock n Rolla !

  36. #156
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    Mitch, which shocks are you using to have to shorten their travel that much? Are they the Slash4X4 LCG GTR's? I went with the XO-1 shocks which are shorter from the start. They use standard length GTR bodies and shafts. They come with the stiffest GTR spring and 60 wt oil. I rebuilt mine with different pistons, softer GTR springs, & 30 wt oil, & oh yeah, the BLUE anodized bodies! That's how I got the ride height, dampening, & weight transfer I wanted.

    AB
    I'll try anything once, maybe twice!

  37. #157
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    I'm using the slash's GTR shocks. I could of used my spare eRevos but I wanted to use the Rally shocks since I had bought them.

    The idea behind my build was to show others that it was possible that if you had slash GTR shocks, or stock shocks that it is possible to convert your Rally to a street machine with a bit of "out of the box" thinking. With the shocks limited the way they are, it has not effected shock operation at all.

    It is a fairly easy mod and I have given myself the flexibility to turn this build into an offroad machine if I choose . I would just need to get a body and some wheels for the conversion.

    I am running 35wt shock oil with Losi green springs all round...I also have installed the GTR VDK piston kit in my shocks. I have stiffened my front suspension over the rear with the VDK piston kit, as I want more control over the front of the Rally.

    I will fine tune these settings once my truck is up and running...hopefully by next weekend .
    Rock n Rolla !

  38. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by MITCH316 View Post
    I'm glad to hear mate...thanks for the feed back .



    Cheers mate...I appreciate it.

    I've always known it as toe in or toe out...first I have heard of it been referred to as toe in positive or negative. Just goes to show, I am learning something new all the time .

    Caster...not sure how you would set that on the rally with the arms fixed to the chassis and the Steering C Hubs Axle Carriers and Caster Blocks fixed to the arms...I am sure with a bit of thought and creativity it is doable.

    I use caster on my eRevo and eSlayer Pro 4x4 all the time...I like mixing it up as every time I change it I have to learn how to drive my truck all over again .

    316...its from John 3:16...something my dad always mentioned to me through out my childhood...the 316 just stuck with me through out my adult life....
    That was what I meant, there really isn't any settings for caster on the Rally.
    So the info on how different caster will affect the car is superfluous here.

    In everyday speech you hear toe in and toe out...

    I was thinking it might be Joh 3:16.

    God bless you!
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  39. #159
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Cool Rdie height height.

    Here is a comparison of ride height from the first limiter mod I did to the revised limiter mod.

    1st shock limiter mod attempt.
    =====

    =====
    =====
    2nd shock limiter mod attempt.

    =====
    =====
    This is how its going to stay now...I am quite happy with the ride height of my Rally. As you can see in the above pic that my ride height is angled towards the front so that the rear is slightly higher.

    My thoughts behind this was to accommodate for rear squat under constant acceleration, also including weight transfer during braking and cornering.
    Rock n Rolla !

  40. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sverige View Post
    That was what I meant, there really isn't any settings for caster on the Rally.
    So the info on how different caster will affect the car is superfluous here.

    In everyday speech you hear toe in and toe out...

    I was thinking it might be Joh 3:16.

    God bless you!
    No worries mate...you're welcome.

    As far as I know you cant set caster on the Rally...just bump steer.
    Last edited by MITCH316; 03-23-2013 at 06:35 PM.
    Rock n Rolla !

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