MITCH316 Rally build.

[MITCH316]

I've decided to go with the King Headz motor mount on this build...because of the fact I am running a MMM 2200kv combo in my Rally GT build; I am trying to beef up my build as much as I can.

My initial review is that the mount looks very beefy and strong...what attracted my attention to the King Headz motor mount was the oversized bearing they have used. I always like to try use bigger bearings where practically possible.

King Headz motor mount TRX7460

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Here is a comparison of the King Headz motor mount compared to stock...NOTICE the size difference in the bearings.

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Opposite side.

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Its a fairly easy and straight forward installation...and here in place.

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Opposite end.


Fits: Traxxas Slash 4x4 LCG Chassis / Traxxas Rally 4x4 LCG Chassis

FEATURES: This motor mount is CNC machined from 7075 grade aluminum and is anodized black.. This directly replaces the plastic TRA7460 plastic motor mount. This mount will directly work with either the slipper or center diff.

This mount was designed to use a 10X19X5 bearing which is much stronger then the stock 10X15X4 bearing.

This mount has provisions for telemetry RPM sensor mounting.

INCLUDES:
(1) Aluminum Motor Mount
(2) 10X19X5 Bearings


SPECS.
Material: 7075 Aircraft Billet Aluminum
Weight: xx.xx grams (complete mount and (1) bearing

[humayrayakongkinaon]

now how did you get the king headz motor mount before me lol. that sure looks nice too bad everytime i check out there site their always out of stock although i saw the HR? one from TOYZ.com also with bigger bearing.

[MITCH316]

now how did you get the king headz motor mount before me lol. that sure looks nice too bad everytime i check out there site their always out of stock although i saw the HR? one from TOYZ.com also with bigger bearing.

I guess I got lucky mate ...I've seen the HR one, looks good. Hopefully the King Headz motor mount was worth the $'s spent.

[MITCH316]

I've also decided to beef up the stock bellcrank to aluminium.

My initial review is that the bell crank has a sleek look and feels very strong...I have had good luck on my other builds with the whole steering mechanism been aluminium.

STRC Steering Bellcrank ST6845GM

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Here is a comparison of the STRC Bellcrank compared to stock.

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Its a fairly easy and straight forward installation...and here in place.


STRC CNC Machined Aluminum Multi-Piece Steering Bellcrank set (Gun Metal)

The CNC Machined Aluminum Multi-piece Steering Bellcrank Set greatly increase the durability and take out any flex in the kit plastic bellcrank system providing a more precise steering feel.


My build is progressing a lot slower than I like at the moment due to the fact that my Arms haven't arrived. The order was placed and paid for the same day as my Roller... OmniModels.

[humayrayakongkinaon]

are the bellcrank link equipped with bearings? i find the stock ones to have alot of play.

[MITCH316]

No mate...those are the stock bearings and screws I re-used.

I've ended up buying a set of the Pro-Line ProTrac arms from my LHS today...$60 later, what do you do??

I placed an order with OmniModels the same day I bought my Roller 5th of Feb, and, by lunch time today still no arms. Without the arms I can't progress my build so in order to continue I had to buy another set.

Anyway...I can continue with with getting my build on tonight .

[Slowdx1]

The king headz mount is well worth the money. I bought 3 for my 2 trucks and rally. No issues with a Novak 4.5 so far. noticeable difference from stock mount/bearing speed-wise.

@huma: if your talking about the motor mount being out of stock when you look on the website, call the number on the contact page. I did and the guy was great to deal with and took my order over the phone and had the mounts the next day. Awesome service.

[QYKSLVR]

I would contact OmniModels. See if they can cancel your order if it hasnt been fulfilled/shipped. They have never taken that long for me. Even tho I know your in AUS.

[humayrayakongkinaon]

@huma: if your talking about the motor mount being out of stock when you look on the website, call the number on the contact page. I did and the guy was great to deal with and took my order over the phone and had the mounts the next day. Awesome service.

no way....thats awesome man. thanks for the info.

[MITCH316]

The king headz mount is well worth the money. I bought 3 for my 2 trucks and rally. No issues with a Novak 4.5 so far. noticeable difference from stock mount/bearing speed-wise.

Thanks for the input mate...I always believe you can't go wrong with bigger bearings, better efficiency . I am looking so forward to completing this build...I will hopefully get some more done tonight once the kids go to bed.

I would contact OmniModels. See if they can cancel your order if it hasnt been fulfilled/shipped. They have never taken that long for me. Even tho I know your in AUS.

They have always been good and reliable...I ordered a body 2 days after I ordered my arms and that arrived within a week and a half...It will probably show up next week or so but I couldn't wait any longer...I got itchy fingers to get on with this build.

If nothing has shown up by mid next week I'll get in contact with them . Thanks for the input tho mate .

[MITCH316]

I have replaced the stock suspension arm with the Pro-line ProTrac arms for the extra length.

As luck would have it my arms were the last of the items to arrive...I got tired of waiting so I bought some more from my LHS. Fortunately for me he did not have the arms by themselves but had a kit for sale.

The part # for the kit is 6082-00 and comes with the following:

1. Front and Rear ProTrac™ arms 6082-01 (4 pcs)
2. ProTrac™ Suspension Kit Renegade 2.2”/3.0” Black Wheels 2727-03 (4 pcs)
3. 50mm x 4mm Rear Camber Links 6062-06 (2 pcs)
4. 60mm x 4mm Front Camber Links 6082-02 (2 pcs)
5. 70mm x 4mm Steering Links 6062-07 (2 pcs)
6. Turnbuckle Wrench 6062-49 (1 pc)

This was a blessing in disguise as it never occurred to me at all that the camber and steering links would need to be longer for the extra length of the arms. Stock would probably work but with the rod end having less bite thread so to speak.

From the above list...the bloke at the LHS sold me all the items except for Renegade rims which I did not need.

Front and Rear Pro-Line ProTrac™ arms 6082-01

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Hers is a comparison of the stock arms compared with the ProTrac arms I am using.

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Description:
ProLine ProTrac Suspension Kit for Traxxas Slash 4x4. #6082-00

Features:
Drastically Improves performance over stock
Beefy and Trick Suspension Arms
Made in the USA
Latest style Renegade Black ProTrac™ Wheels Included
Longer and stronger turnbuckles with included wrench

Included:
Front and Rear ProTrac™ arms 6082-01 (4 pcs)
ProTrac™ Suspension Kit Renegade 2.2”/3.0” Black Wheels 2727-03 (4 pcs)
50mm x 4mm Rear Camber Links 6062-06 (2 pcs)
60mm x 4mm Front Camber Links 6082-02 (2 pcs)
70mm x 4mm Steering Links 6062-07 (2 pcs)
Turnbuckle Wrench 6062-49 (1 pc)

NOTE:
**While the stock axles will work with the ProTrac™ Suspension Kit, some customers may want a heavy duty CVD option for their truck (for Racing or Extreme Bashing purposes).

The following MIP option has been confirmed to work with the kit:
MIP #11104 X-Duty CVD Kit (2 Required for Front and Rear)
MIP #10133 X-Duty Front Axle (2 Required for Front Left and Front Right)

Additional note:
If you already own X-Duty CVDs for the Slash®/Stampede® 4x4, you can use MIP #11105 Male bones to convert your drives to the new length. Axles can then be skipped in this case.

[humayrayakongkinaon]

nice set of arms there, mate. what cvd are you going to use?

[MITCH316]

Following your build here mate...doing the same as you with the Tekno - XO-1 combo. Just trying to figure out how the rear C Hubs go on...not sure how to read those °'s on them; I'm also battling to find info them and how to read the °'s.

[humayrayakongkinaon]

Following your build here mate...doing the same as you with the Tekno - XO-1 combo. Just trying to figure out how the rear C Hubs go on...not sure how to read those °'s on them; I'm also battling to find info them and how to read the °'s.

i think its cheaper if you buy the tekno bone and drive cup along with xo-1 axle stub and carriers also dont forget to buy this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-6757...item2ebf3d1cab. thats the boots that hold the joint pin, also you have to use the pin from the kit, the pin from tekno is a bit short for the xo-1 stub axle.

as for the rear camber if your facing the back the 3.5 is what i have on now.

[MITCH316]

i think its cheaper if you buy the tekno bone and drive cup along with xo-1 axle stub and carriers also dont forget to buy this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-6757...item2ebf3d1cab. thats the boots that hold the joint pin, also you have to use the pin from the kit, the pin from tekno is a bit short for the xo-1 stub axle.

as for the rear camber if your facing the back the 3.5 is what i have on now.

Already got all the parts I need for the CVD's...I studied your thread long and hard .

That's what I was going to do as you suggested...3.5° facing the rear, will get onto the build once the kids are in bed tonight. Thanks for the help mate .

[humayrayakongkinaon]

well done mate. sounds like your gonna have a fun long night, cheers!!

[MITCH316]

As said in post #51...I am using the ProLine ProTrac Camber & Steering Links.

50mm x 4mm Rear Camber Links #6062-06 (2 pcs)
60mm x 4mm Front Camber Links #6082-02 (2 pcs)
70mm x 4mm Steering Links #6062-07 (2 pcs)

Here below is a comparison of the Stock Camber & Steering Links compared to the beefed up extra length Pro-Line ProTrac Camber & Steering links.

[MITCH316]

I have also decided to replace the stock rod ends with RPM's...Again here below is a comparison of the stock rod ends compared with RPM's.

RPM long rod ends #80512

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RPM Rod Ends for Associated and Losi vehicles have been some our best selling RPM parts for over 2 decades! That same engineering, combined with RPM bulletproof materials, has gone into the creation of RPM Rod Ends for Traxxas 1/10th scale vehicles. These rod ends are tough! Black Short Rod Ends The area around the ball stud is thicker than the stock rod end while still allowing a full range of motion of the pivot ball. Additionally, the shank has been redesigned with a pair of flats, making the rod end much easier to work with (versus the stock, round shank). RPM rod ends are sold in sets of twelve to complete most vehicle needs.

Tech Notes: RPM long rod ends replace Traxxas stock #5525.

[case182]

Just curious about your dying methods. Why do you let it not boil and then sit for as long as you do? Never heard of anyone doing it like this before.

[MITCH316]

I am using the XO-1 steering C Hubs axle carriers and caster blocks rear...it also uses larger bearings over stock....these look really awesome; and I'm also enjoying how my build is slowly starting to take shape .

Left and Right Front Caster Blocks (C-Hubs) #6832X
Left and Right Front Steering Blocks #6439
Left and Right Rear Axle Carriers #6455
(6) Ball Bearings 6x12x4mm #5117
(2) Ball Bearings 10x15x4mm #5119
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Steering C Hubs Axle carriers (front)
I have also lowered my roll center in the front from the different mounting locations used on the steering C Hubs axle carriers.

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Caster Blocks (rear)
Again in the rear I have lowered my roll center...using the top mounting hole in the caster block. I have the 3.5° facing the rear.

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I also secured the caster block with a 3 x 3mm grub screw with a drop of blue loctite to hold in place.

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My progress so far...I'm taking my time and enjoying this build .

[MITCH316]

Just curious about your dying methods. Why do you let it not boil and then sit for as long as you do? Never heard of anyone doing it like this before.

I normally dye my chassis's in hot water on the stove top for 2 to 3 hrs...my chassis's come out nice and dark. My rally chassis is the best one dyed yet...this leaving it in water overnight after been in hot water on the stove top for a few hours made it nice and dark. The chassis dyes quickly in hot water too.

[MITCH316]

I was really happy when I found out you could get GTR shocks for the Rally...I have GTR shocks on all my trucks and am well impressed with them.These were fairly difficult for me to find as most Ebay sellers selling the GTR's didn't offer shipping to Australia.

Here below is a comparison of stock shocks to Rally GTR's against the eRevo on the right.

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The eRevo and short Rally shock are very close in size been a few mm out.

[I EAT DIRT]

I plan on using the Revo shock's on my rally. Going to use a longer ball end to make up the 5-6mm in difference in the front and just run front's out back to see how it work's out. If not I guess my Rally will wear D8's.

[MITCH316]

Nice one mate...I just did a quick rough measurement of the 3 different length of GTR shocks so you can gauge the lengths you are working with once you add the longer rod end...give or take a few mm from the length I have given:

87mm - eRevo GTR shocks
86mm -Slash GTR front shock
103mm - Slash GTR rear shock

What I have noticed to be the biggest difference between the shocks is the rod and cap ends are slightly different between the eRevo and Slash. I hope this info helps you mate .

[Mugs]

I see the build has progressed nicely. As always good job with the build and the thread. Eager to see it in action when it is done.

[humayrayakongkinaon]

wheres the body mate.....show us the painted body......

[MITCH316]

I see the build has progressed nicely. As always good job with the build and the thread. Eager to see it in action when it is done.

Cheers mate...it's coming along slowly .

wheres the body mate.....show us the painted body......

Haven't even got to the body yet...probably get around to it in the next couple weeks .

[humayrayakongkinaon]

man, if your my neighbor i would give you my shelf body for cheap lol. my xo body will be here by tuesday or wednesday this coming week, already got the paint (copper&black) ready for it, bought it today at LHS

[MITCH316]

I think if you and I were neighbours mate I wife's would get crazy mad with us...we would probably be wrenching and building custom rigs non-stop .

Thanks for the offer on the body mate...I ended up garbing 2 myself...one of eBay the other from Pro-Line direct. Looking forward to seeing your XO-1 build progress .

[MITCH316]

One of the main reasons I was happy to get the GTR shocks is for the fact that I am able to use the Variable Damping Kit.

I use the VDK kit in my eRevo and eSlayer Pro 4x4 with great success...In my opinion using the VDK made a noticeable difference to my suspension settings.

Traxxas Variable Damping Kit TRA5461

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It comes with 3 different piston sizes as seen below.

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Here is the valve flap that works in conjunction with the piston.

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Here is an explanation on how the VDK works...I took a photo of the instructions.

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Here is a comparison of the stock GTR piston compared with VDK #1

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On this setup I am running the valve at the bottom of the piston so as to control shock rebound on this build.

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The rear piston came stock with 2 limiter spacers in the GTR shocks...I have re-used them.


Description: This is the optional Variable Damping Kit for GTR Shocks found on the Traxxas Revo 3.3 RTR and the Traxxas E-Revo RTR (TRAC07**).

The stock shocks came with a 1.5mm piston in the front shocks and a 1.6mm piston in the rear shocks...I have replaced the front shock piston with a VDK #3 (0.95mm) and the rear shock piston with a VDK #1 (1.1mm). For this build I want slightly stiffer suspension in the front than the rear so I have used the smaller diameter pistons up front.

FEATURES
Nylon construction
Enhances tuning ability of suspension by controlling compression and rebound rate of shocks

INCLUDES
One Variable Damping Kit for GTR Shocks: #1, #2 and #3 pistons and stainless steel valves
Instruction sheet

REQUIRES: Installation on the GTR Shocks

Part TRA5461 by Traxxas

[roachtron]

I have been running the 2800kv mmp in my rally with the stock shafts and proline protrac kit. Haven't had trouble yet, but if I do I plan to go with the tekno setup. I noticed that tekno actually makes a cvd kit that is built for the protrac arms. Any reason you guys didn't go with those?

[MITCH316]

I have been running the 2800kv mmp in my rally with the stock shafts and proline protrac kit. Haven't had trouble yet, but if I do I plan to go with the tekno setup. I noticed that tekno actually makes a cvd kit that is built for the protrac arms. Any reason you guys didn't go with those?

Hey mate, I am doing something similar to Humayray GT build...I followed his setup for the extra length for the Protoform PF8-GT. This rig will run most of the time on 4s but on some occasions maybe 6s.

[MITCH316]

I originally filled my shocks with 50W front and rear but with the VDK in place the shocks just seemed to stiff for a road build so I ended up changing over to 35W shock oil...it is somewhat better; I'll bash the Rally around a fair bit and see how we go; I can always change over to 25W if 35W seems to thick.

This is the shock oil I have been using in my rigs lately.

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Here is a pic of how full I fill the shocks before putting the bladder back in place and closing the shock. I was surprised how much increase in volume the extra long shocks had over stock GTR's.

[MITCH316]

Along with the STRC BellCrank I am using their shock towers too. I like STRC's products...their parts are made well...Thanks Digger for showing the gun metal in your thread ....I new once I saw the gun metal I was sold and wanted to get a set for my Rally build.

STRC Front Shock Tower ST6839GM

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Here is a comparison of the front stock shock tower to STRC's.

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STRC Rear Shock Tower ST6830GM

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Here is a comparison of the rear stock shock tower to STRC's.

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Shock towers installed...the build is starting to look good. A pic of both ends of the shock towers for reference.

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STRC CNC Machined Aluminum HD Shock Tower (Gun Metal) for Slash 4x4

Greatly reduce the flex of the stock plastic towers on your Slash 4x4 with our CNC Machined Aluminum HD Rear Shock Towers. These CNC machined aluminum heavy duty front and rear shock tower will not only add great looks to your Slash 4x4, but it will eliminate the flex in your shock tower, keeping your Slash 4x4’s suspension operating true to its design

[MITCH316]

Description: This is the optional Variable Damping Kit for GTR Shocks found on the Traxxas Revo 3.3 RTR and the Traxxas E-Revo RTR (TRAC07**).

The stock shocks came with a 1.5mm piston in the front shocks and a 1.6mm piston in the rear shocks...I have replaced the front shock piston with a VDK #3 (0.95mm) and the rear shock piston with a VDK #1 (1.1mm). For this build I want slightly stiffer suspension in the front than the rear so I have used the smaller diameter pistons up front.

FEATURES
Nylon construction
Enhances tuning ability of suspension by controlling compression and rebound rate of shocks

INCLUDES
One Variable Damping Kit for GTR Shocks: #1, #2 and #3 pistons and stainless steel valves
Instruction sheet

REQUIRES: Installation on the GTR Shocks

Part TRA5461 by Traxxas

This is from Post #70.

I need to amend...it should of read as follows:

The stock shocks came with a 1.5mm piston in the front shocks and a 1.6mm piston in the rear shocks...I have replaced the front shock piston with a VDK #3 (0.95mm) and the rear shock piston with a VDK #1 (1.1mm). For this build I want slightly stiffer suspension in the front than the rear so I have used the smaller diameter pistons up front.

Description: This is the optional Variable Damping Kit for GTR Shocks found on the Traxxas Revo 3.3 RTR and the Traxxas E-Revo RTR (TRAC07**).

FEATURES
Nylon construction
Enhances tuning ability of suspension by controlling compression and rebound rate of shocks

INCLUDES
One Variable Damping Kit for GTR Shocks: #1, #2 and #3 pistons and stainless steel valves
Instruction sheet

REQUIRES: Installation on the GTR Shocks

Part TRA5461 by Traxxas

[humayrayakongkinaon]

nice write up there mate, i'm sure this are very helpful info to others in a long run.

[Sverige]

Black Rit Dye...This is the powder form, I find it very easy and convenient to use.
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And the end result...The chassis came out good; I am a fan of the black dyed chassis.

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And here where I scolloped the chassis to fit the motor is hardly noticeable now that the chassis is dyed.

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My method of Rit Dyeing
To rid dye I would add the whole packet of dye, in as much water as I need and mix the powder until all dissolved in the water. I would add 500ml of vinegar along with my parts and leave over the stove top with low heat.

For this dye session I kept at a low heat for roughly 3hrs and then left overnight. The whole process took roughly 10hrs before I emptied the bath and washed the parts that had been dyed off.

While on the stove top I never let the water boil once...when I saw a few bubbles appear I would lower the heat or turn off.

This is my dye bath I use...I got it down at the local hardware store for $12. They call it a galvanised bucket here in Australia.

Looking nice with black chassis. I'm gonna dye mine too.
I'm thinking of vinegar, what does it do? Does it matter what kind of vinegar you use?

[MITCH316]

Looking nice with black chassis. I'm gonna dye mine too.
I'm thinking of vinegar, what does it do? Does it matter what kind of vinegar you use?

I'm not sure mate...It was recommended to me right in the beginning to use white vinegar when I first started dying my chassis's...apparently the vinegar helps with dying plastic.

I do know that my chassis come out nice and dark when compared to others that have dyed their chassis ..

[Sverige]

I'm not sure mate...It was recommended to me right in the beginning to use white vinegar when I first started dying my chassis's...apparently the vinegar helps with dying plastic.

I do know that my chassis come out nice and dark when compared to others that have dyed their chassis ..

Thanks. Yes, seen chassis black/purple, perhaps not dyed long enough, or no vinegar. Or both...

[MITCH316]

nice write up there mate, i'm sure this are very helpful info to others in a long run.

Thanks mate...thanks for the feedback .