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  1. #1
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    Suggested Jato 3.3 Upgrades

    Hey everyone,
    Newish to nitro, just picked me up a jato 3.3
    Just tuned it and its running great...aside from sliding all over the street due to the cold and wetness.

    Anyway, looking on some suggestions on some upgrades, whether it be a-arms, suspension setups, but mainly tires and rims setups. Tires are starting to get bald.
    Planning on running the street with a little off road bashing in a little dirt and grass. So any suggestions?

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    How much are you willing to spend?
    As for wheels and tires, I personally used the Proline Road Rages, and fitted them onto Traxxas 2.2 rims.

    All other upgrades are limited by budget. $500 would get you far though, haha.

  3. #3
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    My budget is whatever hahaha.

    Nothing really motor upgrade wise.

    Have a tuned pipe already, lookin for maybe some beefier suspension, lookin at the rpm bumpers maybe some aluminum a-arms. Whatever people have found to be a nice investment.

  4. #4
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    Don't buy aluminum A arms.

    The most common upgrades are:
    dual disk brakes
    20/40 revo garing
    17mm hub adapters

    I would suggest a HD slipper clutch, Buku clutch, and hardened steel transmission gears.

  5. #5
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    Cool, ill look into that stuff, towerhobbies good place to look at stuff, or ya know any better places to look?

  6. #6
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    I generally just use eBay. Shipping kinda sucks, but largest range for sure.

    Pretty sure you can only get the Buku clutch from their site though.

  7. #7
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    Alright cool

    Thanks for the replies

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    1. RPM arms
    2. Upper tray reinforcement plate
    3. Front/Rear turnbuckle reinforcement plate
    4. Aluminum steering drag link
    5. Dual brake disk
    6. MIP clutch pads
    7. T-bone racing Bumper

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by RC-Fan View Post
    1. RPM arms
    2. Upper tray reinforcement plate
    3. Front/Rear turnbuckle reinforcement plate
    4. Aluminum steering drag link
    5. Dual brake disk
    6. MIP clutch pads
    7. T-bone racing Bumper
    I don't recommend the MIP clutch pads, because once they wear out, you must replace them.

    I suggest the Buku ones, because it cost a lot up front, but replacements are cheap, and they're THE BEST!

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mind_Reader7 View Post
    I don't recommend the MIP clutch pads, because once they wear out, you must replace them.

    I suggest the Buku ones, because it cost a lot up front, but replacements are cheap, and they're THE BEST!
    what's your opinion on the HR clutch.

    http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?...X100S308&c=156

  11. #11
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    I used the 3 shoe Integy clutch, and it was terrible, as most of their things are.

    The reason I suggest the Buku clutch, is the flywheel has adjustable shoes, and they have a"Komposite" material. You can replace them also. Seems pointless buying an inferior product, only to keep replacing it. Spend the dollars on a Buku, anbd replace the pads when need be.


    Imo, 3 shoe clutches aren't worth it, unless you use the Buku one.

  12. #12
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    That's not anything against HR,.

    The only thing against them is the aluminum gear scam.

  13. #13
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    Stayt away from the hardened steel tranny gears. You don't want anything metal in your transmission. the tranny has a plastic set in so that it's a supported weak link. So if you replace plastic with metal it moves the weak link to another part. It could be a brake or your slipper and it could chew your spurs up. A good rule of thumb, if it is a gear keep it plastic. Metal doesn't give. As an added bonus plastic stock gears are a heck of a lot cheaper then the metal ones and also having to replace the entire tranny because of a meatl gear
    Billy
    T-Maxx 3.3 Jato 3.3

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitronut42677 View Post
    Stayt away from the hardened steel tranny gears. You don't want anything metal in your transmission. the tranny has a plastic set in so that it's a supported weak link. So if you replace plastic with metal it moves the weak link to another part. It could be a brake or your slipper and it could chew your spurs up. A good rule of thumb, if it is a gear keep it plastic. Metal doesn't give. As an added bonus plastic stock gears are a heck of a lot cheaper then the metal ones and also having to replace the entire tranny because of a meatl gear
    It's funny you should say that.

    The steel gears actually allow you to have a stack more performance in terms of power. I have stripped a set of plastic ones, but can over tighten my slipper clutch with my steel ones. The other problem with the plastic ones, is I have also broken the housing around the clutch, while trying to set it to shift later, meaning I could no longer easily adjust it, and had to rip the whole tranny apart to remove the piece that snapped off.

    Because the transmission is closed, there's a MINIMAL chance of actually breaking anything in there from just running it, even if you crash super hard. The only bad thing I've heard about them, is someone snapped one of the rods (stock Traxxas part) that all the gears are on, and the gears still came out fine.

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