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  1. #1
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    Question JUST BOUGHT a Revo 3.3 5309 Looking for Upgrade do's and Do NOT's!

    I have just bought my new Revo and dont really know where to start with it. Im new to nitro RC all together. This is my first one! I have heard exhaust, skidplates, aluminum or titanium parts, rollcage.. havent even started it yet. Book says that it is too cold. (less than 35dgr)
    Just want some REAL advice from people who actually own this rig!! ...before i uhh... you know...
    Can you all help?
    Thanks!

  2. #2
    RC Racer
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    I'm new as well. Been in the hobby for about a month now. Kind of learning a little bit about upgrading ect. So far I was told to just let the parts break before upgrading them. That everyone drives differently so you end up breaking particular parts more than others just by the way you drive it. Also don't deck out on aluminum which was my instinct at first until I was told that you want a good breaking point such as plastic a-arms. Aluminum will transfer down the line which will cause damage at a more expensive part. Other than that read on tuning a lot because its difficult at first or it was for me. Finally got the hang of it. Something to invest it that I recommend is a temp gauge. Duratrax flaspoint off the internet is a good one. It will help tell you if your running at a good safe temp. Clean your filter every hour otherwise dirt will build up and get through the carb and mess the engine up. Before removing the air filter take some canned air to the carb and around it to remove dirt before taking the filter off. If you need any help shoot me a pm. Hope this helped.

  3. #3
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    RPM is a common upgrade for a arms and axle carriers. Other wise no sence in replacing stock componets unless you are constintly breaking them. Learn the truck first and tweak what you have to get it good for you.

  4. #4
    RC Enthusiast
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    The only "upgrade" I'd recommend after having my Revo for a couple months is either the wheelie bar, or wing. That is IF you're going to run your revo on pavement. The revo has a lot of power and is easy to flip over backwards which is annoying.
    Revo 3.3
    Ken Block Rally VXL
    Associated RC10r5

  5. #5
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    Here is my MUST list.

    1: Port the stinger on the exhaust (if you dont want to port ill sell you mine thats been sitting in the box for a while and its the stock resinator exhaust) PM me if interested
    2: GH or better aluminum shock caps and shock ends
    3: Traxxas sway bar kit!
    4: Aluminum clutch shoes with lightweight flywheel (i also have an extra set if interested)
    5: Ditch the stupid ez start system. I hated mine

    DO not and i mean DO NOT EVER buy integy piggy back shocks or anything integy at all. The revo in stock forum is an awesome vehicle and can take a beating and ask for more x10. Ive never felt the need to upgrade anything else. With this hobby you will for sure want some spare parts. I like to keep a full set of control arms on hand and an extra set of rocker arm shafts. Other then that im not sure you need anything else in the box of goodies unless you get one heck of a deal on some stuff.

  6. #6
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    Thanks... I am still waiting for things to warm up enough for me to break it in the I will really consider everything. I did see some 22$ roll cages new on ebay. Frez california I think. Will wait to start buying crazy upgrades.
    What is the alternative starting method to the ez start?

  7. #7
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    Pull start and glow ignitor. The roll cage would be worth it to protect the motor other wise learn the truck stock first.

  8. #8
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    What I would suggest:
    pullstart with glowstarter
    wing (add wheels so it doubles as a wheelie bar)
    tires if the stocks don't suit your terrain

    aside from that just replace as it brakes. My buddie bought a 3.3 to run with my 3.3 powered 2.5 model and he has yet to brake a piece and he's nearing his first gallon. btw he loves to wreck at WOT
    just got a revo
    so long spacemaxx

  9. #9
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    RPM arms, knuckles and bumpers. Tekno wing mount, serves as wheelie bar and looks cool. And a Proline body. The stock body won't hold up much past break in if you're going to really "use" the truck.

    If you aren't familiar with nitro engines and don't have anyone to help you that is, you might want to stay with the easy start for awhile. And when you're tired of replacing OWB's look for an old RD Racing starter box. They don't make em anymore but it's the best way to start a Revo imo.
    33%

  10. #10
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    This is all great. I ordered a rollgage so far and plan on a wing or wheelie bar... btw, whats the best after run oil method? It has finally warmed up some and i am planning on grabbin some juice on it this weekend. Breakin it in...

  11. #11
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    Kind of new to this myself I have had my Revo for about 3 months now and these forums are a great way to learn new stuff. When I purchased my Revo I bought some of that stock Traxxas after run oil but found out that it is a pain to get the oil in the engine with the cooling head on. After experimenting with a straw and a couple other ideas I did some research and found out that WD-40 actually works pretty good and is recommended by a lot of people so that is what I use now. And on the plus side it is easy to spray in the engine and carb since it has a straw.

  12. #12
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    I would recommend the Traxxas Sway bar as a really great hop-up. Revo is much more stable when cornering, as well as bashing around. TBH, this is the single most impressive hop-up I have done to my Revo (oh and RPMs arms... they trully are indestructible).
    Nitro Humanum Est
    Reto 3.3

  13. #13
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    Great... Now I havent even been able to start the thing... I have the easy start. went to the hobby shop guy got it to turn over now at home nothing. two green lights full charge off my new prophet plus and still wont start. any advice?

  14. #14
    RC Competitor
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    Since it is new, the pinch in the motor will be tight. You might have it on a bind. Use something to get into the slot in the bottom and try and pry the flywheel around in a circle and see if that does it. If it is pinched up like that, you should be able to hear the ezstart try and move it.

  15. #15
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    loosen the glow plug just a little crank it, you should see fuel running through the lines, it will start, pull off the glow plug wire while you keep it running and tighten up the plug with your T wrench. That's how my hs owner told me to do it and I broke my in in 35 degree weather, wrapped the head with tin foil and kept it at 210 to 220 during all 5 tanks, it worked great for me. Good luck push.
    15 IS Enough, Time to thin down the fleet some.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shadow7g View Post
    Here is my MUST list.

    1: Port the stinger on the exhaust (if you dont want to port ill sell you mine thats been sitting in the box for a while and its the stock resinator exhaust) PM me if interested
    2: GH or better aluminum shock caps and shock ends
    3: Traxxas sway bar kit!
    4: Aluminum clutch shoes with lightweight flywheel (i also have an extra set if interested)
    5: Ditch the stupid ez start system. I hated mine

    DO not and i mean DO NOT EVER buy integy piggy back shocks or anything integy at all. The revo in stock forum is an awesome vehicle and can take a beating and ask for more x10. Ive never felt the need to upgrade anything else. With this hobby you will for sure want some spare parts. I like to keep a full set of control arms on hand and an extra set of rocker arm shafts. Other then that im not sure you need anything else in the box of goodies unless you get one heck of a deal on some stuff.
    Shadow, can you explain a little more about porting the stinger on the exhaust? What does it do? Thanks in advance.
    15 IS Enough, Time to thin down the fleet some.

  17. #17
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    COOL... Im running. Thanks Guys!

  18. #18
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    the first time i heard about porting the stinger it was by carguy, if i remember right, you might want to search threads but, use a 5/32 drill bit and port the stinger, supposed to give you more bottom end power, did my slayer, it may be all in my head, but it seemed to me it worked, but it just coulda been me learning to tune better too! its only a little bit of metal you get out, making the exhaust exit only slightly bigger~~~~~~


    P.S remember, im not sure of the drill bit size, so dont do this unless you find the thread....
    Last edited by cadmanslayer46; 01-15-2011 at 09:57 PM. Reason: Disclaimer...
    Master of Traxxas engine longevity....

  19. #19
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    After searching for weeks in different forums I compiled this list and added my own short experience.

    Replacement/Tools:
    eneloop batteries for the sender + Loader
    WD40
    Loctite Blue
    Glow Plugs
    Screw set + good blades (I took Hudy)
    Tie Links + Push rods (Titanium or Carbon take more punishment but normal replacements are ok)
    Aluminum Shock Caps + Ends
    Nitro fuel

    Before you drive:
    RPM Front A-Arms
    RPM axle carriers
    Traxxas extended wheel base rear arms or RPM True Track
    traxxas steel drive shaft + inner drive cups
    Tekno Swaybars
    mount the harder LT replacement Shocks you get with the car
    Shock Socks
    Rollcage
    fuel Filter

    For more upgrades:
    Titan Skip plates
    Tekno Tank and Receiver Set + 250ccm Tank (if you want to drive more than 20-30 min per tank)
    1600mAh Battery (If you want to drive 2 hours or more with strong digital servos)
    1* Savox metal gear 20kg servo for steering 1256tg
    1* Savox metal gear 12kg servo for gas/break 1258tg
    Single Servo Arm
    HD Servo Saver Spring

    Yes I know my revo is heavy and not for racing but if I compare it to my old cars its nearly indestructible with these upgrades.
    Last edited by Twist; 01-18-2011 at 06:29 AM.

  20. #20
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    [QUOTE=Twist;4680581
    Tekno Tank and Receiver Set + 250ccm Tank (if you want to drive more than 20-30 min per tank)
    1600mAh Battery (If you want to drive 2 hours or more with strong digital servos)
    [/QUOTE]

    I am just thinking you are really optimistic there... Are you talking about adding a second tank?
    I am more in the 15 minutes, and that's when being gentle on the throttle.
    Nitro Humanum Est
    Reto 3.3

  21. #21
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    well I got 20-30 out of the traxxas tank...what is it 125ccm oder 150ccm?...250ccm should give me quite some more time.

    my battery was empty with 3 metal gear digital servos after about an hour...1100mAh ? so I will remove one steering servo, opti drive and use a 1600mAh battery...

  22. #22
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    no, he means replace the stock tank with a 250cc tank.
    you only need one decent steering servo.
    x2 for the bump box, you will need a 40mm flywheel to use the box.
    OS.18TZ when your ready to go fast

    1/2" off set wheels, nice low body, wing mount and wing
    revos look much better with the racer look than a monster truck look
    Last edited by estan; 01-18-2011 at 10:03 PM.

  23. #23
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    i got a revo 2.5 with a 3.3 and these are my upgrades so far

    1.RC Solutions Rollcage for the 2.5 chassis (got it for 35 bucks off ebay) and the only problem is the engine is a pain top take off
    2.Rpm front a-arms
    3.Traxxas on board temp gauge (just one less thing to carry around)
    4.traxxas wing and mount
    5.put a rear bumper on the front to avoid it bending my shock pushrods
    6.60wt oil in all shocks
    7.purple springs
    8.the slayer reciever battery box (compact one)
    9.the traxxas waterproof servos for both brake/throttle and steering
    10.getting ready to try slayden steering mod
    11.p2 progressive rockers
    12.fuel filter
    13.forward only conversion with wide ratio gears
    14.aluminum 14mm hexes all the way around

    it is definately a basher and it stands up to anything i throw at it and it starts in 20 degree weather until today

    P.S. if you start breaking or wearing out the same parts either upgrade or buy lots of extras like bearings, screws, etc.
    revo 2.5 with a picco .26max

  24. #24
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    I as well am new the the nitro game. i have about 6 tanks through my revo, just trying to get a hang of the tuning trick now. i know the revo is a tough lil truck, and i really dont want to upgrade until i break something. i went head to head half throttle with a t-maxx yesterday, i got a lil scratch on the bumper, he's buying new a-arms. but, my only issue is that i live in spain for the moment (military) and parts are hard to come by. We have a small hobby shop but not alot there. So i have a general idea of parts that i wanna keep on hand, just in case so i dont have to wait 2-3 weeks for shipping new parts in. I was wondering what everyone else thought would be a good idea tohave a small supply of. money isnt really an issue i just dont have alot of patience lol. thanks for any help guys.

  25. #25
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    where do u get all deez parts from? im a newbie . just got my Road Runner(revo) like a month now and looking for sites where i can get these good hop-ups. helps us newbie out. im tryn to make mines fast and can handle any outdoor terrain. hook it up wit the goodz


    *Watch the language. You agreed to the rules of the forum when you signed up and offensive and profane language is not allowed here. When you see ** replacing words you wrote, edit them out.*
    Last edited by Double G; 02-01-2013 at 10:13 AM. Reason: language

  26. #26
    RC Competitor
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    I just upgraded my truck also after owning it for 4 months ,rpm awsome, bashing, would do true track don,t need the extra adjustment,good idea on techno sways ,a good upgrade is the m2c clutch ,and a ths tuned pipe, also went with 40 tooth spur gear,better tires will help after burning your new ones up,they also have a upgraded slipper clutch and brake disk don,t forget your extra plugs during break in will need few, Best of luck

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