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Thread: Gear mesh

  1. #1
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    Gear mesh

    Okay, so I officially think im the worst at setting gear mesh. I stripped my spur on my stampede now I set my gear mesh on my Slash and it smelt like plastic just like my pede but i caught it before it was stripped. I tried the paper between the gears thing and the by sound method from Jang. So my question is anyone got some good tips or a good visual on where they set their gear mesh on stock gearing?
    ERBE
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  2. #2
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    The paper way is the only way that's really explainable. You just have to learn the right sound and feel. You just have to make sure you can push the truck with out the gears stopping it too fast or the teeth not hitting each other. You just need to find that happy medium spot

  3. #3
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    I think I found it but can't tell because it's kinda hard in the snow and the smell of plastic looms for a bit. I will see tomorrow if I smell plastic while running it.
    ERBE
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  4. #4
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    On the Slash 4x4 check your bearing adapter on the slipper clutch. The stock one is plastic and mine melted and trashed the spur gear... When using the paper method tru using 2 pieces of paper. Its hard to explain but you want just a small amount of backlash (play) in the gears...
    No Limit RC of Maryland

  5. #5
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    We will see how it goes tomorrow. Spur's are cheap anyways.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fr8cture View Post
    We will see how it goes tomorrow. Spur's are cheap anyways.
    It takes a little practice but you'll figure it out. It is a good idea to keep a few extra spurs in your toolbox
    No Limit RC of Maryland

  7. #7
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    I tried the paper trick and didn't really work, still felt a little loose, maybe I used too thick paper.... So I just put them against each other then barely barely backed the motor off, works like a charm.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlashDigger View Post
    On the Slash 4x4 check your bearing adapter on the slipper clutch. The stock one is plastic and mine melted and trashed the spur gear... When using the paper method tru using 2 pieces of paper. Its hard to explain but you want just a small amount of backlash (play) in the gears...
    Yeah I'd check the adaptor too. I know I went through one pretty fast.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Newestmemberhere View Post
    I tried the paper trick and didn't really work, still felt a little loose, maybe I used too thick paper.... So I just put them against each other then barely barely backed the motor off, works like a charm.
    It should be fine with normal printer paper but as you can tell im not very good at this xD
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  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    For me, I lock one of the gears, then I make sure I can move the nonlocked gear just slightly. I go all the way around the spur gear as it is not perfectly round. When I have just a slight wiggle in the tightest spot is when it is correct and ready to be locked down. Adter its locked down I retest it to make sure it hasn't moved.
    Slash Ultimate, ET-3S, 2400, MIP, King Headz, RPM

  11. #11
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    It is tricky at first and the bet way to learn is without aid. I set mine by feel, but the pinion gear should only have two teeth touching the spur at a time. One easy way is to leave the motor mount screw loose and hold your truck off the ground and give it slow throttle then move the motor until the gears get quiet then stop and tighten your screw. Look at the gear mesh with a flashlight for futer changes and wiggle the spur so you remember the sound.

  12. #12
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    Okay I ran it today and it seemed fine but then I smelled burning plastic again. Checked the spur and it was fine. Is it possible that it could be that the slipper clutch is just too tight?
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  13. #13
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    Do you have the aluminum bearing adapter on the slipper?
    Slash 4x4 built from Proline RPM STRC TRX and MIP

  14. #14
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    Not unless it comes with one.
    ERBE
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  15. #15
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    It does not come stock. Replacing this could help fix your issue.

  16. #16
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    I use the paper method too. Just a little bit of play between the pinion and spur. I have done this before many times with many rc's. I did this again recently when my new ultimate was being made ready for running. Bought a roller and put my own electronics in it.
    Slash 2wd
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  17. #17
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    A few things.
    First things first
    If you are still running the stock motor mount and plastic adaptor do yourself a favor and replace it. By far the single highest failure rate item on the truck. King Headz or similar with either an aluminum or brass slipper bearing adaptor.

    If you get the gear mesh too tight while running the stock motor mount and plastic adaptor its pretty much guaranteed that you will toast the bearing and the bearing adaptor.

    If the slipper is tight its not your problem, its the plastic bearing adaptor. Best way to find out is to pull the rear end, swing the motor out and if you get any wobble out of the slipper in the motor mount the slipper shaft bearing adaptor and most likely the bearing too are toast.

    Now with all that being said I would recommend replacing the motor mount and the slipper shaft bearing adaptor as mentioned. Personally I use the paper method but not thick paper, a cash register receipt works for me. After I set it I run the spur around and make sure its not binding anywhere. If it is then get the high spot on the spur aligned with the pinion and repeat the paper adjustment. Done.

  18. #18
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    It is tricky at first and the bet way to learn is without aid. I set mine by feel, but the pinion gear should only have two teeth touching the spur at a time. One easy way is to leave the motor mount screw loose and hold your truck off the ground and give it slow throttle then move the motor until the gears get quiet then stop and tighten your screw. Look at the gear mesh with a flashlight for futer changes and wiggle the spur so you remember the sound.

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