My Shash 4X4, a bashers build.

[Badmunky]

So for my birthday I got a Slash 4X4 RTR. And what a great truck!
I have had a few problems with it, and have fixed most of them so far. I thought you guys might be interested to see what I have done to the truck over the last 3 months that I have owned it.

First let me state that I am not a racer, and probably never will be. I'm just a basher. And I am VARY hard on this truck.

Now on to some pics and info on the truck as it sits.

[Badmunky]

Here you can see the SC10 4x4 front shocks mounted to a Traxxas aluminum shock tower with spacers and longer then stock screws. The lower mount also uses longer screws and the same spacers as the upper mounts, there mounted to blue RPM control arms with shock guards from the Stamped. I'm using the stock blue springs and there about right for this truck. I also drilled the bleeder holes out to 1/16th". Stock there a little small and get packed with dirt and plugged easily.
The SC10 Shocks are 13mm bore size and a big upgrade from the Stock shocks.
There also much better then the ProLines that they replaced.
I'm running the MIP Buypass1 valve kit with 40 weight oil and the stock bladder setup. I have the kit installed upside down. This gives me a stiffer compression stroke, and a soft/fast rebound stroke with only 1 blue valve. This is great for bashing.
I'm also running the stiffer of the 2 front sway bars with the same spacer on the lower mount that was used on the shocks.
You can see in the pics that the front wheels rub slightly on the shock guards. This is do to the spacers I used for the shocks. Its vary miner, and has not been a problem so far.
I fave installed an RPM body mount up front do to the stock one cracking.
I'm still using the stock front drive shafts while I wait on my Tekno M6 front kit to come in.
The front diff is still running the stock oil right now, but that will be getting changed to a heaver oil the next time I tear the truck down.








I'm using a heat sink and fan that I had to trim to fit. I also flipped the wires on the motor so they come out threw thew the front cover. It fits well and has lowered the motor temps a lot. But the fan has a short lead, and it failed after only about 8 packs of use. I need to get a new one ordered.

I have the Traxxas fan on the ESC and it to has failed. Thou it lasted much longer at around 25 packs.

I'm using the E-Revo Slipper clutch and 13/50 gearing with the Traxxas aluminum slipper bearing adapter. So far I have had no problems but I only have 2 packs threw it with this clutch. Both 2S Lipo's.

I have the Hot Racing motor mount with uprated bearing. I HATE this mount. It has holes in it that let all kinds of crap get in to the slipper clutch area. I sealed them with RTV for now but I plan to replace it. It dose fit well. The holes are really my only complaint.

I have also installed black RPM nurf bars with Velcro on them to help hold the body in place better.

[Badmunky]

[Badmunky]

Here you can see the SC10 rear shocks that I have flipped to the back side of the blue RPM control arms.
There mounted to a Traxxas Aluminum shock tower using longer screws and some spacers at the top.
Right now I'm running the stock yellow springs thou there a bit to soft, so I have to run a lot of preload. They also don't control the truck well. I need to order a stiffer set.
I have also installed the MIP Bypass1 kit and 40 weight oil in the rear same as the front. I mounted the Bypass1 kit upside down same as the front.
The lower mount uses a longer then stock screw in the stock location. No spacers needed.
I'm using the softer of the 2 sway bars on the rear of the truck.

I have the Tekno M6 rear drive shaft kit. I have bent one shaft on the left side so far. On the left side I can pull the drive shaft out of the cup at full drop. This is do to the diff allowing the drive cup to move more on the left side of the truck then the right side.

I have the Tekno aluminum hex kit on the way as well.






For the rear diff I replaced the stock grease with a heaver grease and installed a spring to act as a primitive limited slip. Its from an old ball point pen. This seams to be working good so far.

Ill be rebuilding the diff soon with a new diff cup do to the bent Tekno shaft causing the output to become a bit lose on the left side.




Right now I have a few small problems to sort out.
First I have tried several mods to keep rocks out of the center drive shaft tunel, none of them have lasted vary long.
Some have not worked well at all.
Next I'm still not happy with the Tekno drive shaft kit. I keep getting dirt/small rocks in the drive cups and outer CVD's. And I have bent 1 rear shaft already.
I would also like get a 3S battery and a better servo.




So that's it. That's my truck as it sits right now.

If you have any questions or comments feel free to post them up.

[4sdash]

the truck look great to beat on but one question do you get binding with the rear links the way they are ,or added wear on them

[jodart]

What are those shock boots?

[Badmunky]

the truck look great to beat on but one question do you get binding with the rear links the way they are ,or added wear on them

No binding at all. And no added wear from what I can tell. They have to be moved like that to clear the shocks do to them being flipped to the back side of the control arms. Time will tell thou. I have only run about 6 packs threw the truck with them like that. But I don't see any problems with it at this time. I will report back after I have had the time to put 20+ packs threw the truck if there is any problem.

What are those shock boots?

They come stock on the SC10 4X4 13mm shocks. They would work on other shocks as long as there is a lip on the bottom of the shock body to hold them up and the shaft is the same size. I think there 3mm shafts but I'm not 100% sure on that.

You can get the shocks already to go on ebay for around $60 shipped. There great shocks. Much better and much cheaper then the ProLines. And you have the option of tuning the valving with ether the stock optional valves that come with the shocks or you can do what I did and buy the MIP valves. They came with the tools to take them down as well.

[Badmunky]

A few updates for you guys.

Still looking for replacement fans right now.

And I have received a few of the parts I had on order.
My 3S 5,000mah 25C battery showed up a few days ago. Man this thing is fast with 13/50 gearing!!!!!!




I also changed the rear springs with Losi 3.6lb springs for 13mm shocks. This was a big improvement over the 3.1lb springs that came with the shocks in that the back of the truck dos not bottom out so easy and the rear suspension can actually do what it was meant to now.
I think that 3.8 or 4.0lb springs would be better as its still a little softly sprung in the rear but for right now these are working good.
I also changed the oil in the rear from 40 to 45 and added the tan disk to the MIP shock valve kit.

I re-glued my Proline Trenchers and got them back on the truck as well.

But the biggest change is a new body!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!







In order to run this body you will NEED a much taller front body mount and a slightly taller rear mount is recommended but not needed like the front mount.





No one told me this and I could not find any thing that said I need to replace the front mount but Traxxas dos list a new front mount part # for this body. I did not check the rear but I suspect it is the same. I used 1 Large riser block on my rear RPM mount and then all the rest of them from 3 RPM mount kits in the front to get the correct height out of the body.


And the last thing I did was flip the rear shocks back to the front of the control arms. I need to get some aluminum so I can make a brace for the upper shock mount points before I can flip them back. Ill post pics when I get it all done so you will understand why I need them.


I still have a few things on order that have not shown up yet.
Tekno front M6 drive shaft kit.
Teckno aluminum hex kit for there M6 drive shaft kit.
Hot Racing sway bar kit. (The Traxxas sway bar kit is going to go on the wife's slash 4x4)
Rear Stamped shock guards. (Already have the fronts)

[Badmunky]

I'm also thinking about a motor/ ESC upgrade.

Here are 2 I am looking at.


That is at my local HS. There asking $154.99 For it.

And here is a link to one my friend is running.
http://www.falconsekido.com/products...-combo-for-sct

Both are water proof. And this is a MUST for me. I'm not the best driver and have flipped my truck over in a ditch at least 2 times already. No water in there at the time but I was lucky as I had no idea if there was water in there or not when the truck went in there.
And I want to be able to run it in snow this winter as well.

Let me know what you guys think of them and what you think of the truck!

[Cinnabun]

When it comes to brushless systems, and performance, you get what you pay for. I personally have no experience with either kits, nor have i heard of them before. The first kit has too high of a kV for a 4wd slash. You want something with a max of 2500kV I would say. You also need to pay attention to can size. Use the castle neu-1415 2400kV can size as a reference, the castle 2400 is probably one of the best general basher motors you can get reasonably priced.

[Dgb007]

Cinnabun is on the right track with castle 2400, for,a few dollars more get he MM 2200 and be done with it. JMO

[Badmunky]

Are ether of thous motors water proof?

If not then there off the list for me.

Also just finished painting a ProLine Baja bug body for the wife's slash. Ill post some pics shortly.

[pede1497]

Motors are waterproof. Esc not so much. The hobbywing 150a esc is waterproof though and has had good reviews.

[Badmunky]

I can not find a hobbywing ESC that is 150amp and water proof. I can only find one that is splash proof.

Link please?

[pede1497]

Sorry i cant do links on my ipod. Google hobbywing sc8. I think this is the one i am talking about.

[skynex721]

Have you had any problems with the aluminum shock towers? Im a basher to but i still want it to handle well. Next mods for me are d8 shocks and a lcg chassis.

[Badmunky]

I have only had one small problem. If you land hard on 1 rear wheel and you dont have the shocks set up right you will bend the mounting screws a little. But you can take them out and replace them or if there not bent badly just keep running them.
You will have the same problem with the stock towers thou if you bash as hard as I do. I would kill an LCG Chassis so fast its not worth the cash to buy one for me.

My largest complaint is that the spur and pinon gearing is exposed. So you can NOT run in dusty/ sandy environments or you are going to kill the gearing really fast. And the slipper as well, if you run one.

LCG chassis are for guys running on packed clay tracks and that's about it, basically its just for racers. None of them would last vary long in my hands.

I really wish some would make an LCG chassis that just for the bashers out there. One that will handle better, but still keep every thing protected from dust, sand, rocks, and other debris. And be strong enough to handle a basher as well as the stock chassis dose.

But I don't think it will ever happen.

[SLW-SVT]

nice build so far. I have ssc chassis's on mine and my wife's slash and we bash and have never had a problem with hardened steel spur's and pinions. lcg's are definitely not limited to hard clay. look at 1/8 scale buggy's. every one on the market has exposed spur/pinions. Their pitch is only slightly larger and most have a hole in the chassis for running larger spurs. I'm just trying to say that with hardened steel spur/pinions you don't need to worry about your gearing getting messed up by rocks and such.

[mrhammer2u]

Can u keep the vxl esc and just buy the better motor? 2400 they speak of is great but you will have to use 3s to keep your mph's up. Good thing is our temps will be way down

[skynex721]

I dont think vxl will run a 4 pole motor.

[Cinnabun]

The vxl won't run a 4 pole

[Badmunky]

Nice Build

Thanks man!

My Tekno front drive shaft kit and Tekno aluminum Hex kit came in today! Along with a my new Hot Racing sway bar kit!
Ill have the parts on the truck and new pics up in a few days. As well as the pix of the wife's slash seeing as I'm building hers for her I might as well just add it to this thread! LOL

[Badmunky]

Well I have run in to a problem.
I bout an Onyx 5000mah 3s Lipo and I have run the truck 3 times with this battery.
The first time I got about 40 min of run time out of it. Then I recharged it and got around 35 min of run time. Not bad.
So I recharged it and just ran it again and only got 5-7 min of run time. So I recharged the battery and unlike every other time it did not take 40-45min to charge it. It took only 7min to charge the battery back up.
My charger shows the MAH that the battery has after its been charged. My 2s 5000mah batterys both show about 4950mah.
The new 3s 5000mah battery now shows 404mah.
Did the battery just fail?
It never got hot, and it has not puffed up ether.

[Badmunky]

Ok so I just went out and ran the new 3s battery one more time to be sure there is a problem and I only got about 5-8 min out of it again before the truck went to half power and the ESC started to flash red.
The motor and the ESC where warm, but not over heated. I could hold my finger on both of them with no problems.

I did 2 short speed runs, and the rest was normal bashing.
Im geared 13/50 and have no problem getting 45+ min of run time out of both of my 2s 5000mah Lipos.
Is this 3s battery bad?

[4sdash]

check and make sure that all the cells are balanced i had a similar problem with that same battery with a weak cell it would take forever to balance out and get the batt back to the way it belonged

[Badmunky]

I am charging all my Lipos with an Onyx 245 and I always balance charge my Lipos.

[JustinThyme]

The mAh of charge it reports is not the capacity of the pack but what the charger actually charged.
There are several things that could be going on.
First thing I would do is check the volts of the entire pack with a meter after chaging then after the ESC cuts it out low voltage.
The Velineon ESC is notorious for cutting out on LVD when the pack is still perfectly fine, many have ditched the ESC specifically for this reason or disabled LV cutoff and used a Novak smart stop instead that monitors the volatge independantly of the ESC and interupts the throttle signal from the receiver to the ESC when LV is detected.
If the pack reads more than 9.9 volts after the ESC cuts it out then its the ESC and not the pack. How the ESC reacts to 2s and 3s can be totally different.

If its less than 9.9 or close then it could be the pack or the charger. Plug it up to the charger and scroll to see the individual cells. If they all look balanced, within 1/10 volt of eachother then most likely its not the pack.

Im placing my bet on the ESC cutting it out prematurely as this is a widespread and well known malfunction of this ESC.

[supradrew]

i dont bash much but i just bought this roll cage from ebay, any bashers out there know how well its going to hold up?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-Slas...item3f1d4735a2

[Badmunky]

I checked the battery and its showed 11.54v and all 3 cells showed 3.84v the morning after I ran it and the ESC went in to LV cut.
So it looks like the battery is fine and the ESC is the problem.

I can send it back to Traxxas to have it fixed right? Will they cover that under the warranty?

[Badmunky]

I have some updates for you guys.
I changed the motor and ESC to a Dynamite system. And I changed the gearing to 11/54.

More changes to come in the next few months as more parts come in that I have ordered.

I think you guys are going to like what I will be doing to the truck.

More info and pics to come when the rest of may parts come in.

But you can check this thread for some of the things I have changed:
http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...nd-spur-gears.

[Badmunky]

i dont bash much but i just bought this roll cage from ebay, any bashers out there know how well its going to hold up?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-Slas...item3f1d4735a2

So how is holding up?

[ImprovEverywherE]

i dont bash much but i just bought this roll cage from ebay, any bashers out there know how well its going to hold up?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-Slas...item3f1d4735a2

This is by far one of the best upgrades I had on my bashing slash. I dont have to worry about bodies, or parachuting!!!!

[JoeHotRod]

Wow those SC10 shocks look great on there badmunky!!!

Does anyone know if these shocks could fit a 2x4 slash?