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  1. #1
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    Villain IV remodeling.

    After realizing that this is a pretty dead section of these forums, perhaps this isn't the best idea. Anyways, I have a question for all of you boat people out there. I recently acquired a Villain IV from someone. The condition that I found it in was absolutely stinky. After some work done on it though, it is looking much nicer. However, one problem remains. The paint scheme is horrible. I'm not sure what it is painted with exactly. It wouldn't look too bad if it weren't so sloppy. Needless to say, I would like to paint it to my own preference.
    My question is this: what is the best way to strip the old paint off and what is the best new paint to use? Also, when this guy painted it, he got an annoying amount of paint on the bottom of the hull. I would like to get that off and leave the hull clean-looking again. Is there any way to buff and repaint to get that nice glossy look again? Thanks in advance for all the help.
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by larsen8 View Post
    what is the best way to strip the old paint off and what is the best new paint to use?.
    Can you post pictures of it?

    My suggestion would be to use a rotary tool (a la Dremel) with an abrasive finish wheel. Maybe like this:

    http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessor....aspx?pid=511E
    Make it idiot-proof and along comes a better idiot

  3. #3
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    Here are some pictures of the boat. Like I said, it might actually look cool if it wasn't done in such a sloppy manner. That dremel idea is a good one and I was thinking about that, but would "refinishing" the boat - especially the bottom where you want it to be really smooth - be as simple as priming and painting with a gloss finish? It looks like this boat has at least two or three paint schemes over its life.





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  4. #4
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    It's almost like the original owner was trying to pull a Jackson Pollack:

    http://arthistory.about.com/od/from_...m-aa_08_08.htm
    Make it idiot-proof and along comes a better idiot

  5. #5
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    Haha! I can appreciate his efforts to create art. But I think I'm just going to buff the whole thing down and repaint it with a nice, clean, sharp-looking scheme.
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  6. #6
    Traxxas Marshal cooleocool's Avatar
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    Yikes!

    I wouldn't use a rotary tool, as you'd have a higher chance of burning a hole in the hull. If it were mine, I would probably use sand paper to take the existing paint down as much as you can. Maybe start off with 150 or 220 grit and work your way up to 1,000+ grit for finishing it. The key will be to take your time so that you don't get uneven surfaces or deep gouges/scratch marks (be especially careful with the coarse sand paper).

    Good luck! That upper deck will be a pain in the butt because of all of the nooks and crannies; it might be best just to buy a whole new upper deck because of that. That being said, you should be able to make it look a lot better so long as you take your time and don't do what the former owner did!

    Happy boating,


    -cooleo
    Last edited by cooleocool; 01-24-2013 at 06:51 PM.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooleocool View Post
    I would probably use sand paper to take the existing paint down as much as you can. Maybe start off with 150 or 220 grit and work your way up to 1,000+ grit for finishing it.
    Sounds like work to me!
    Make it idiot-proof and along comes a better idiot

  8. #8
    Traxxas Marshal cooleocool's Avatar
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    Yes, a lot of work. Still a lot less work that color sanding an entire car, though! (I don't know how people do that for a living.)
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  9. #9
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    Thanks for all the good information.
    Hey cooleocool, I was reading some old villain threads and I noticed you were giving good information on motors and such. I've got a few questions. Since I am running this boat on electronics that I already have sitting around, I don't really have an ideal setup. When I got the boat, it had the stock BLX-1 ESC in it with what appears to be two 540 size brushed race-spec motors. Perhaps similar to the Reedy Radon. It was clear to me that the BLX-1 was not up for anymore serious running. So I found myself lacking a suitable ESC. My initial setup was dual brushed 30A ESC's. I just Y-harnessed them to the ESC and disabled the BEC on both (left the receiver pack in). Each motor/ESC combo was run by a 2s lipo. The first time I ran it, the motors got so hot that they melted the motor mounts. The ESC's were not much more than warm. if I gear down at all to keep the motors cool, I am quite certain my top speed will be somewhat disappointing. I realize that these 540 size motors are not the best setup, but I also find it hard to believe that they can't come anywhere close to the titans for performance. The reason I haven't done much for the power system is that I didn't really pay much for this boat and I would like to keep it that way. There's no point in getting a cheap boat and then spending $200 on it right away. So what would you recommend as far as getting top performance from this setup? I guess I can't really run anything more than 2s on these 540's.
    How come the 550 Titans can handle 16.8V apiece but these 540's can't go any higher than 8.4? Is it simply based on motor turns? Is there that big of a difference between 540 and 550 size? Please excuse my lack of knowledge when it comes to motors.

    Is it possible that these 540's are undergeared? Low ESC temps, high motor temps? I really doubt it but aren't 540 motors supposed to be faster than 550's for identical voltage?
    Last edited by cooleocool; 01-25-2013 at 06:52 PM. Reason: post merge
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  10. #10
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    Not sure whats going on with your motors, I swapped mine out for twin 550 HPI motors and an esc out of an eSavage last year. Paid basically nothing for the setup. I was going to put in twin brushless 5700's but the cost for this boat its not worth it. As for the outside of the boat. Mine was painted badly as well. I stripped off the old finish with sandpaper and had a friend at a body shop paint mine for me. I chose bright yellow with black trim. I wanted visibility and I got it. The bottom of my boat is painted, but it was a major pain to get the glass finish. Unless you are going to go for high speeds, don't worry too much about the bottom of the boat. Mine will hit somewhere in the mid 20's with two carbon graupner props. I will try and post some pictures when I get a chance. Its 5 degrees outside right now and boats are the farthest thing from my mind right now.
    Maxx3.3/ rusty5700/ slash3800/ slash5700 /4tec3.3

  11. #11
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    How much did you pay for that ESC? I can't imagine finding one for any less than $50. But I bought both of the current ESC's that I have for around $12 shipped.
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  12. #12
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    I paid 60 for the esc 14.4 volt and 2 brand new 550 HPI motors.. All was new and never run. My friend pulled them out of an electric Savage and ran dual brushless instead.. They work well with the boat, but I had to run water cooling.. Not a big deal if you are creative.. I ran a fan on the esc in the beginning, but water cooling kept it ice cold.
    Maxx3.3/ rusty5700/ slash3800/ slash5700 /4tec3.3

  13. #13
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    I'm definitely going to run watercooling in the Villain. I've already wrapped the coils for the motors, and I think I'll make up a couple of water cooled plates for the ESC's. At this point, I think I am just going to run with this dual ESC setup and see where it takes me. I've started sanding the boat, and it's clear that this boat has been painted twice now. Beneath the black and gray splatter, I'm finding a green base with red flames. Who said I have to repaint? I just need to take off the outer color and I'll end up with a totally different boat!
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  14. #14
    Traxxas Marshal cooleocool's Avatar
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    I saw some green paint in one of your pictures, and was wondering what it looked like under the oh-so creative paint scheme you've got going on there.

    At any rate, let's talk motors. If those motors are spec racing motors, they they're likely 27-turn motors with 24 degrees of advanced timing. Now, in theory, those motors should be faster than the Stinger motors that came with the Villain IV or the 7.2v Villain; however, that really only holds true for land vehicles. Early in my early and naive days, I installed a pair of Trinity P2K2 Pro motors in my then Villain IV. I quickly discovered two things: 1) the boat was slower than it was with the factory Stinger motors and 2) motors with 24 degrees of timing do not work well in reversed rotation. The problem is that one of the motors is running in reverse, and, because of that, it is running with 24 degrees of neutral timing (this is very bad). For a boat like the Villain you really need neutrally timed motors like the Stingers or the Marine Titans. You could also use the Titan motors out of the E-Revo because one of those motors comes in a reversed rotation.

    Now, the reason why the 540 motors can't handle the same voltage that a 550 motor can is because of the voltages that the motors are designed to work with. Most 540 motors are 6v motors, whereas many 550 motors are 12v motors. Since the 550 motors are rated at double the voltage, they can handle 12-14 cells.

    With respect to what motors you should run, it depends. Usually I would recommend a couple of 19-turn modified motors with adjustable timing (set them at 0 for maximum durability). That said, I don't know anything about the ESCs that you are using, so I don't know what they can handle. If you wanted a reliable setup, pick up a couple of Traxxas Stinger motors and call it good; your boat won't be terribly fast, but it's still fun. Otherwise, I'd recommend stepping up to 550 sized motors and an ESC that can handle them. The Marine Titans would provide you with respectable performance and long life (the Marine Titans on one of my Villains have hundreds of runs on them).

    If I missed anything, just let me know.

    Happy boating,


    -cooleo
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  15. #15
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    The ESC's that I am using are 30A brushed-specific. They can handle up to 3s lipo or 10 cell NiMH. I currently have the boat set up so that both of the motors spin in the same direction so neither of them is running in reverse. This lowers the stability of the boat, but lets the motors live longer. In fact, the ESC doesn't even have a reverse function on it. These ESC's are normally meant for planes, but at $7 they work in a boat too. Normally I would jump up to a better ESC and motors but as funds are tight right now, I'm looking to get this boat running well for as cheap as possible. Is there any way to accurately determine the turns of these motors? If it means anything, they have the ROAR emblem engraved in them. But if they are 27 turn, could the motors have gotten hot in the boat because of being undergeared, causing me to want to be on the throttle more, maxing them out the whole time? Higher turns means more torque and less RPM for applied voltage right?

    Also, you mentioned that 24 degree timed motors don't run well in reverse. What are the results of running them in reverse? Hotter motor temps, esc temps, or just poor performance? Or is it all of the above?
    Last edited by cooleocool; 01-26-2013 at 07:17 PM. Reason: post merge
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  16. #16
    Traxxas Marshal cooleocool's Avatar
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    Running both motors in a standard rotation will only help them last longer if they have advanced timing (which yours probably have); however, if you were using neutrally timed motors or one reversed rotation motor and one standard rotation motor, you wouldn't notice any difference in motor wear by running a proper counter rotating setup.

    Combining the fact that the motors say Roar and race spec on them, I am inclined to believe that they are 27 turn motors with 24 degrees of advanced timing. I'm not sure if gearing up will solve your problems, as motors with 24 degrees of advanced timing tend to heat up fast. Racing motors were designed to be ran hardcore for 3-5 minutes (maybe a little more). Once you start going past that point, temps skyrocket exponentially.

    As for the negative side effects of running an advance timing motor in reverse, you've got most of them. In addition, the motor will also wear out prematurely.
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

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