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Thread: 17mm

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    17mm

    http://miponline.com/cgi-bin/sc/ss_m...5d774ba60173f3.
    Anybody use these on there stampede? I need some 17mm that work with the mip cvds. My 2400 keeps eating wheels after about 3 packs

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    Quote Originally Posted by tfleig17 View Post
    http://miponline.com/cgi-bin/sc/ss_m...5d774ba60173f3.
    Anybody use these on there stampede? I need some 17mm that work with the mip cvds. My 2400 keeps eating wheels after about 3 packs
    Mine just arrived today. According to MIP, you can use these with pinned axles or keyed axles. They do have the pin slots and the grub screw for keyed axles, I just opened up the box and saw that much. Going to put them in this weekend if my castor blocks come in Friday. I've been running Revolver 3.2's 17 mm and had another kit on my rear MIP's which have pins. Blew up the Integy CVD on the front and now running the new MIP w/keyed axles. Got my 2.8 Trenchers on till I switch back. Hope that helps.

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    Let me know how try work. I have the keyed axles as well. Sounds like ill be buying them too soon

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    I will. I may buy the stub kit to upgrade my old rear axle to the keyed if I like how these work.

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    Hi rob can you find out if they work with the old pinned mips becsause my 12mm hexes round every now and again even with them done up tight with alu hexes and epoxy resin. the torque from tenshock motor is mental lol....peace
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    They do work with the old style pinned axles. My mother got my son the new style MIP axles for Christmas while I got him their 17mm adapters (plus a lot of other parts). I tried them on my old style MIP axles and Traxxas ones and they work.

    After getting my sons Slash 4x4 together I really wish MIP would offer the older style pinned axles as well. Or at least the option to buy the parts. We really prefer the pinned design. While their 17mm adapters are nice and pretty and my work well for other people, I really dont like them. I actually prefer the Traxxas ones that I have. There are two grub screws per MIP adapter that we used loctite on. And for some reason a couple still seem to work their way loose. Always the same ones. Also the head to the nut that holds the wheel to the adapter is too shallow. We're having a hard time keeping it tight enough to hold the wheel in place. My sons wheels have a recess where the wheel nut makes contact with the wheel. Once it gets close enough to tighten down, the socket cannot make contact with the nut. If we add washers to shim it out enough to make it so the nut and socket can make secure contact, theres barely enough threads to screw it on.

    I have the old style MIP's in the rear of my Stampede and wanted MIP's up front. I may buy the new design axles and see if I can drill for the pins or see if someone who likes the new design wants to trade. If I decide to drill them, I need to see if I can make a jig for my drill press to be able to drill the perfectly for each axle without any variation.
    Last edited by lowsaturn; 01-10-2013 at 11:58 AM.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by lowsaturn View Post
    They do work with the old style pinned axles. My mother got my son the new style MIP axles for Christmas while I got him their 17mm adapters (plus a lot of other parts). I tried them on my old style MIP axles and Traxxas ones and they work.

    After getting my sons Slash 4x4 together I really wish MIP would offer the older style pinned axles as well. Or at least the option to buy the parts. We really prefer the pinned design. While their 17mm adapters are nice and pretty and my work well for other people, I really dont like them. I actually prefer the Traxxas ones that I have. There are two grub screws per MIP adapter that we used loctite on. And for some reason a couple still seem to work their way loose. Always the same ones. Also the head to the nut that holds the wheel to the adapter is too shallow. We're having a hard time keeping it tight enough to hold the wheel in place. My sons wheels have a recess where the wheel nut makes contact with the wheel. Once it gets close enough to tighten down, the socket cannot make contact with the nut. If we add washers to shim it out enough to make it so the nut and socket can make secure contact, theres barely enough threads to screw it on.

    I have the old style MIP's in the rear of my Stampede and wanted MIP's up front. I may buy the new design axles and see if I can drill for the pins or see if someone who likes the new design wants to trade. If I decide to drill them, I need to see if I can make a jig for my drill press to be able to drill the perfectly for each axle without any variation.
    Thank you man for the heads up will do this when i got the cash but my 2 girls birthdays are just round the corner.so now going to look at wheels for when i have the spare cash will buy the 17mm adaptors and wheels at the same time....peace
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    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    Hi rob can you find out if they work with the old pinned mips becsause my 12mm hexes round every now and again even with them done up tight with alu hexes and epoxy resin. the torque from tenshock motor is mental lol....peace
    They do, they have pin slots. I had the same problem you did with 12 mm hexes which is why I switched to 17mm. Wheel hexes were rounding by the time the tires got broken in no matter how much you torqued 'em. I stripped one axle nut overtightening it trying to keep those on with loctite too. It was not fun cutting off that stub with the wheel stuck on it so I could save the wheel and aluminum bearing hub, but I managed to do it.

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    hmm tha doesn't sound good lowsaturn. I guess ill wait to see if rob has any issues to see if I wanna buy them. I do need to order my parts soon. its starting to warm up again. and I have ALOT to buy.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tfleig17 View Post
    hmm tha doesn't sound good lowsaturn. I guess ill wait to see if rob has any issues to see if I wanna buy them. I do need to order my parts soon. its starting to warm up again. and I have ALOT to buy.
    I'm beginning to think that the grub screw issue might be related to the wheel nut issue. You're most likely using wheels different than my sons. If you're using wheels where the wheel nut make contact with a flat face rather than a recessed portion of the wheel, you shod be fine. Just make sure yku ise loctite on everything.

    Here is a pic of my sons wheels. The pic is a little big, so I'll just post a link.

    http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/s...227_222735.jpg

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    Thanks guys for the help as soon as my wallet allows me i will be going 17mm dudes cant wait to bash without stripping hexes sorted......peace
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    I have MIPS with mip 17mm adapters and they are great. I would recommend not using aka or Traxxas 17mm adapters. I've broken 3 stubs using those.
    Another option that I also have is the flm slip on style 17mm adapters that slip right over whatever 11mm adapters you have. The cool thing about these is that widen your track a bit.



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    Thanks Slw-svt i will stick with mips because they make awesome stuff and look after their customers....peace
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    I have MIPS with mip 17mm adapters and they are great. I would recommend not using aka or Traxxas 17mm adapters. I've broken 3 stubs using those.
    Another option that I also have is the flm slip on style 17mm adapters that slip right over whatever 11mm adapters you have. The cool thing about these is that widen your track a bit. Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk
    good to hear ill probably be buying them then. I plan on running buggy wheels with them. converting my pede to more of a truggy. strc lcg slash chassis. proline protract kit. extended mip shafts. my list goes on and on lol should be fun when I get it done.

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    sounds like you are converting it to a slash. I just built a pede truggy and I'm really happy with how it came out.

    Here's a link to the FLM adapters
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/FLM-17mm-Ext...item2c69b9e0fe
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    Yeah I thought bout doing that but I'd like it to be alittle bigger too so I'm going for a slash chassis I suppose
    You didn't go with the rally chassis for yours?
    Last edited by tfleig17; 01-12-2013 at 02:17 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tfleig17 View Post
    Yeah I thought bout doing that but I'd like it to be alittle bigger too so I'm going for a slash chassis I suppose
    do you have an idea of what body you will use? I would get the STRC chassis in a heartbeat for my P4de if I could find a truggy body that would work with it.
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    That's true. I never really thought about that lol. Maybe ill just buy a rally chassis instead and do a pede truggy.... Nvm that will make it a bit to low for me I think
    Last edited by tfleig17; 01-12-2013 at 02:30 PM.

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    the rally chassis is a lcg Slash chassis. If you do a pede truggy use this body!
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    Ahhh true thanks I completely forgot that's a slash chassis. Yeah that would look awesome. Back to the drawing board I go lol

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    You think MIPS would work with the extended wheelbase arms? That angle seems alittle far from MIPS. I could be wrong

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    If you are converting from normal arm mip axles then no they won't work unless you buy the longer bones for it. This is copied from Proline's website:
    http://prolineracing.com/performance...nsion-kit-4x4/

    While the stock axles will work with the ProTrac™ Suspension Kit, some customers may want a heavy duty CVD option for their truck (for Racing or Extreme Bashing purposes). The following MIP option has been confirmed to work with the kit:
    MIP #11104 X-Duty CVD Kit (2 Required for Front and Rear)
    MIP #10133 X-Duty Front Axle (2 Required for Front Left and Front Right)

    Additional note: If you already own X-Duty CVDs for the Slash®/Stampede® 4x4, you can use MIP #11105 Male bones to convert your drives to the new length. Axles can then be skipped in this case.

    I did that conversion on my Stampede and my wife's slash which are both running protrac
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    I just bought a set of these for my stampede 4x4, thanks for the ebay link above. I have a set of revolvers we'll see how they work out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    If you are converting from normal arm mip axles then no they won't work unless you buy the longer bones for it. This is copied from Proline's website:
    http://prolineracing.com/performance...nsion-kit-4x4/

    While the stock axles will work with the ProTrac™ Suspension Kit, some customers may want a heavy duty CVD option for their truck (for Racing or Extreme Bashing purposes). The following MIP option has been confirmed to work with the kit:
    MIP #11104 X-Duty CVD Kit (2 Required for Front and Rear)
    MIP #10133 X-Duty Front Axle (2 Required for Front Left and Front Right)

    Additional note: If you already own X-Duty CVDs for the Slash®/Stampede® 4x4, you can use MIP #11105 Male bones to convert your drives to the new length. Axles can then be skipped in this case.

    I did that conversion on my Stampede and my wife's slash which are both running protrac
    I meant if I bought the ssc extend wheelbase arms that you used on your pede. if im keeping it a pede chassis Id rather give it more of a truggy look and make it longer like you did instead of wider.
    or did you switch yours to prolines?
    Last edited by tfleig17; 01-12-2013 at 06:08 PM.

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    Yeah I swapped the front and rear suspension with my slash because I wanted a wider track. The later pics in my thread show the protrac kit installed. The SSC arms definitely work with normal MIP axles. I was thinking like you wanting to give it more wheelbase but they only lengthen the wheelbase .35". The wider track gives it a more truggy like look imo, especially with front offset 2wd rims.
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    Quote Originally Posted by misu View Post
    I just bought a set of these for my stampede 4x4, thanks for the ebay link above. I have a set of revolvers we'll see how they work out.
    they are a great upgrade
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    well I got my list done and I think I went alittle to xtreme lol

    1 x OFNA Hyper 10TT Super-G Body (Clear) - $21.99

    Pro-Line ProTrac Suspension Kit (Stampede 4x4)
    MIP X-Duty CVD Male Spline Bone (1) (Stampede/Rustler)
    King Headz Traxxas Slash 4x4 Aluminum Motor Mount w/Bearing
    JConcepts Rulux 1/8th Buggy Wheel (Yellow) (4) -
    Pro-Line Badlands XTR 1/8 Buggy Tires w/Closed Cell Inserts (2) -
    Losi Wing Mount Set
    Losi 8IGHT Wing (Black) -
    Traxxas Aluminum Rear Shock Tower (Blue)
    MIP 17mm hex kit

    a total of 286 dollars. woooo lol

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    I'm looking forward to your build thread! Can i get a link for that body? I would scratch the 1/8 scale wing. It's going to be too big. Get the 1/8 scale losi wing mount but get the Losi ten-t wing. FWIW, those flm adapters widen the truck even more, which I recommend with buggy wheels, and they are half the price of two sets of mip adapters but either way both types of adapters are excellent choices.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    I'm looking forward to your build thread! Can i get a link for that body? I would scratch the 1/8 scale wing. It's going to be too big. Get the 1/8 scale losi wing mount but get the Losi ten-t wing. FWIW, those flm adapters widen the truck even more, which I recommend with buggy wheels, and they are half the price of two sets of mip adapters but either way both types of adapters are excellent choices.
    Sure thing man. All of its off amainhobbies. With the exception of the 17mm hexes those are off MIPS site
    http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-G-Body-Clear
    Ill deff change the wing then. Ill have to look into the 17mm adapterers alittle more too. Once I start the build thread il be sure to put a link in here
    Last edited by tfleig17; 01-13-2013 at 02:15 AM.

  30. #30
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    Just as I thought, that body is out of stock. When I was looking for it, I couldn't find it anywhere in stock. That link I gave you earlier is the only place that I've seen it available.

    Another thing you might pick up are the jconcepts lowered body mounts for stampedes. I mounted mine to the outer shock mount and that turned out perfect







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    Angry

    Quote Originally Posted by lowsaturn View Post
    I'm beginning to think that the grub screw issue might be related to the wheel nut issue. You're most likely using wheels different than my sons. If you're using wheels where the wheel nut make contact with a flat face rather than a recessed portion of the wheel, you shod be fine. Just make sure yku ise loctite on everything.

    Here is a pic of my sons wheels. The pic is a little big, so I'll just post a link.

    http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/s...227_222735.jpg
    Very Disappointed with MIP on this....
    Well, went to put my new adapters on so I could go back to 17 MM with my new keyed axle, and guess what? They don't work with my wheels either. I run 3.2 Revolvers which have those little simulated plastic lug nuts around your real axle nut for scale looks. When I go to tighten the MIP adapter nut, as soon as the socket hits these nubs it pops off and you can't tighten the axle nut. I had to grind all of them off which doesn't look pretty on a chrome wheel. I would have been really po'd if I was mounting new wheels instead of the old ones.
    Since I imagine Revolvers (most durable wheel I've found) are a popular choice with the 17mm MIP axle crowd, they couldn't have done much market research and testing before releasing these. They need to make the head of the axle adapter nut about twice as thick so a socket can get a hold of it better. VERY DISAPPOINTED on this one!
    Also, I'm not a fan of grub screws vs. through pins on any drive train parts. I replaced the trans in my old 2wd pede as that was a constant maintenance nightmare. New trans allows through pins.
    You can't keep these grub screws in with blue loctite (or risking stripping the heads) and it's a Pain in the butt to have to get out the torch to do a simple maintenance job when you use red. I wish MIP left the holes in the keyed stub or at least still sold the old stubs as a kit.
    Last edited by ROB311952; 01-13-2013 at 07:18 AM.

  32. #32
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    That's an easy fix:




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    slw svt- yeah I saw it was out of stock there but I assume they will get them again? it doesn't say discontinued. but if they haven't had them in awhile maybe they wont have them. thanks for the body mount idea though that looks awesome. I also forgot shocks so im well over the 300 dollar mark now. whoops

    rob- dang man that stinks to hear. it looks like they will be ok for buggies wheels. but yeah it doesn't look like they work well at all with revolvers.

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    Well, you can make them work by grinding off the lug nuts or grinding off your sockets.
    IMO, at the prices they get for these, they should just be a bolt on - period.
    I really don't want to have to go grinding (and heating up) my impact sockets that I use on my full size vehicles too.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by ROB311952 View Post
    Well, you can make them work by grinding off the lug nuts or grinding off your sockets.
    IMO, at the prices they get for these, they should just be a bolt on - period.
    I really don't want to have to go grinding (and heating up) my impact sockets that I use on my full size vehicles too.
    So rob should i look into different 17mm adaptors.do you know any other makes which work dude?...peace
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    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    So rob should i look into different 17mm adaptors.do you know any other makes which work dude?...peace
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/FLM-17mm-Ext...item2c69b9e019
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  37. #37
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    Thanks man i just dont want to splash out on a set of 17mm and then get a headache with them....peace
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    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    So rob should i look into different 17mm adaptors.do you know any other makes which work dude?...peace
    Well I guess you could consider those FLM's on the link on this thread. What scares me about them is they widen it even more than the MIP and other adapters I've tried. That increases the load on the wheel bearings. I've blown apart enough rear wheel bearings as it is - LOL! They literally come out in several pieces. I've got AKA bearings in there now to see if they last any longer.

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    well ordered my first round of parts moneys tight right now so I can only do a few things at a time. might have some extra money on Monday for more. we will see. ordered proline bulldog body losi wing and mount and the traxxas sway bar kit for now. next is 17mm hexs and the extended MIP shafts and the protrac kit if I have the funds

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