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Thread: MIP hex's

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    MIP hex's

    I just stripped out the right rear traxxas wheel on my 4x4 stampede after installing MIP rear axles. I heard that MIP had some defective hex's, what exactly was the problem with them? My lhs said that the corners were rounded on the faulty hex's and that the correct ones have sharp corners, but I heard somewhere on this forum that it was faulty material that they used? any help appreciated.

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    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JKey View Post
    I just stripped out the right rear traxxas wheel on my 4x4 stampede after installing MIP rear axles. I heard that MIP had some defective hex's, what exactly was the problem with them? My lhs said that the corners were rounded on the faulty hex's and that the correct ones have sharp corners, but I heard somewhere on this forum that it was faulty material that they used? any help appreciated.
    Your lhs is correct, the faulty hex's have rounded corners. It wouldnt have anything to do with faulty material because mip uses hardened steel for their hex's, and even substandard steel would be stronger than the plastic of the wheels. Sometimes stripping wheel hex's just happens, but it happens more often with the 12mm hex, thats why many of us run 17mm hex's now as they are far stronger.

    If you do happen to have the faulty mip's, just contact mip and they will get you to send them in and will send out the new ones.


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    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Baldys right just get hold of matt from mip and he will sort it out and 12mm hexes are no way near as good as 17mm so keep that in mind for your next upgrade...peace
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    Nice thanks guys!

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    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    Baldys right just get hold of matt from mip and he will sort it out and 12mm hexes are no way near as good as 17mm so keep that in mind for your next upgrade...peace
    I'm not happy with the 17 mm's either. Refer to 17 mm thread. The nuts are so thin they wouldn't mount on one guys wheels and wouldn't mount on my Revolvers either without a bunch of Dremeling. They should have tested these on most popular wheels. They're so thin they push the socket off them before you can get enough force on them to tighten them fully. Where's the BEEF?

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    Are you using a regular 17mm socket or a thin wall 17mm socket?
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    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Even the Traxxas adapters have a fairly thin nut, but as ksb stated, a thin wall socket is the way to go. Im liking the flm 17mm adapters, they have a thick wheel nut, slip right over the stock 12mm hex and cost only 30 bucks. The flm adapters do have one major flaw though... They dont fit the Traxxas 17mm wheels! I just found this out last night after trying to use the flm adapters with XO-1 wheels, no go.


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    Regular wall. Guess I'll have to see if I have a thin wall, and thensee if it's thin enough to miss the faux lug nuts or maybe have to grind the edge like someone else suggested.
    This should have been discovered/addressed in the testing phase of the new product launch. At my previous job, I saw some engineers and project/marketing managers draw some serious fire for making mistakes like that.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ksb51rl View Post
    Are you using a regular 17mm socket or a thin wall 17mm socket?
    I tried a regular socket and a thin wall one. For me, theres about 1/32" between the corners of the MIP 17mm wheel nut and the sides of the recess it sits in. I'm the "other guy" ROB311952 is referring to.

    Quote Originally Posted by BaldyDaniels View Post
    Even the Traxxas adapters have a fairly thin nut, but as ksb stated, a thin wall socket is the way to go.
    I have the Traxxas adapters and my son has the MIP ones. The Traxxas wheel nuts seem to be about 2x as thick. Unfortunatly, a thin wall socket is too thick in the case of my sons wheels.

    I wish MIP would bring back the older design axles so we could have a choice on which to buy. The pinned axles with the Traxxas adapters would solve the issues we're having on my sons truck. I ended up going to my LHS and buying Traxxas 17mm adapters and putting the original axles back in so he could drive his it. So for now his MIP parts are collecting dust on the workbench.

    I contacted Matt at MIP on 1/10 about our issue and asked if they could look into bringing back the old design since it offers more flexability when compatibility issues come up. I understand that the new design is stronger. But for people like my son and I, the old design was more than adequate for us. I'm not saying to get rid of the new design, because the hardcore bashers out there could use them. Just make them both available, or at least sell the parts so we can upgrade back to the pined design. Hopefully I'm not the only one contacting MIP about bringing back the old design.

    So far no responce from Matt. Which is odd since he's always got back to me right away when I've contacted him about other things.

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    I drilled out my MIP's to accept the pin setup since I had a set of wheel extensions on my son's p4de. Works great, been this way for almost a year now, not a single issue. Just a thought if you want the pinned setup but can't find it.
    FLM EMBE, P4de "Digger", Slash MT, Rustler/P4de

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    Quote Originally Posted by EmaxxChris View Post
    I drilled out my MIP's to accept the pin setup since I had a set of wheel extensions on my son's p4de. Works great, been this way for almost a year now, not a single issue. Just a thought if you want the pinned setup but can't find it.
    How did you get the hole in exactly the right place and keep the bit from walking Chris? Did you make some kind of drill jig?

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    Just a follow up to my post above. I emailed Matt using a different email address and he got back to me. I guess the address I was using before didnt get to him. I let him know my concerns and I'll be getting him a couple pictures later after I put the MIP parts back on. He was asking a lot of questions about how their 17mm adapter fit on the wheel. But there are a lot of wheels out there. I'd prefer that they bring back the pinned axle, but at least he asking questions. Maybe there will end up being a design change to the adapter.

    EmaxxChris and ROB311952, I suggest contacting Matt at matt@miponline.com and voice your concerns, ideas and any other information you may have.

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    Quote Originally Posted by lowsaturn View Post
    I'd prefer that they bring back the pinned axle, but at least he asking questions. Maybe there will end up being a design change to the adapter.

    EmaxxChris and ROB311952, I suggest contacting Matt at matt@miponline.com and voice your concerns, ideas and any other information you may have.
    I'll also email Matt on bringing back the pinned axle (old version).

    lowsaturn,
    We should start a group email to Matt at MIP about bringing back the pinned axle (old version). The more the merrier!

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    Quote Originally Posted by stampede_fanatic View Post
    I'll also email Matt on bringing back the pinned axle (old version).

    lowsaturn,
    We should start a group email to Matt at MIP about bringing back the pinned axle (old version). The more the merrier!
    I emailed him about it and he said they won't bring it back because it's 4X stronger without the hole.
    Actually, I don't care because I've broken a lot of things but never an MIP stub axle! It's a lost cause though, they've moved on and aren't looking back.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ROB311952 View Post
    I emailed him about it and he said they won't bring it back because it's 4X stronger without the hole.
    Actually, I don't care because I've broken a lot of things but never an MIP stub axle! It's a lost cause though, they've moved on and aren't looking back.
    I also emailed him and he said the same thing, which is the new hexed axles were made because people were breaking the pinned axles at the pin hole so they came up with the new version which is 4 times stronger than the old. He also said to this day he hasn't seen anyone break one. He then said that they had a batch that went out with rounded hexes but since they have been sending out correct hexes and taking care of the issue.

    Btw did you get my PM?
    Last edited by stampede_fanatic; 01-22-2013 at 05:59 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ROB311952 View Post
    I emailed him about it and he said they won't bring it back because it's 4X stronger without the hole.
    Actually, I don't care because I've broken a lot of things but never an MIP stub axle! It's a lost cause though, they've moved on and aren't looking back.
    As am I. Too bad. I really like the MIP's. They obviously make enough money to do without our business.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ROB311952 View Post
    How did you get the hole in exactly the right place and keep the bit from walking Chris? Did you make some kind of drill jig?
    I used the grub screw to make a mark where the pin would go through. Used a punch to indent the mark deeper to keep the bit from walking. I just held it in my hand. I'm a dentist, so I feel pretty confident with my hands holding drills! Ha! Carbide drill bit from Lowes.
    FLM EMBE, P4de "Digger", Slash MT, Rustler/P4de

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    Quote Originally Posted by ROB311952 View Post
    How did you get the hole in exactly the right place and keep the bit from walking Chris? Did you make some kind of drill jig?
    With the stub axle installed on the truck and no hex on the axle, just take a fine point sharpie marker and mark the axle at the point where you will have enough gap to use a teflon shim to protect the bearing. Be sure to compensate for the diameter of the drill bit when making your marks with the sharpie, otherwise youll come up short and the drive pin wont go in. If drilling the holes free-hand, to ensure the hole is straight, make another mark on the opposite side. This way you can start on one of the marks and go half way, then go from the other side and meet the other hole in the middle of the axle. For best results use a drill press that has a clamp cuz its pretty hard to get em exactly straight when drilling free-hand. You only get one chance to get it right!

    For this type of hardened steel, youll want to use a Cobalt 135°split point Drill Bit. The 135° split point ensures a fast start with no walking or skating and penetrates faster with less pressure, which is always a good thing when using a bit this small. Use lots of drilling lube or wd40 while drilling the hole, this will keep the bit cool and make the bit cut faster. Without drilling lube, the bit will just heat up and become dull and useless. Buy a few bits too, they're only a couple bucks each, and trust me, you will break or dull at least a couple of them.







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    Quote Originally Posted by BaldyDaniels View Post
    With the stub axle installed on the truck and no hex on the axle, just take a fine point sharpie marker and mark the axle at the point where you will have enough gap to use a teflon shim to protect the bearing. Be sure to compensate for the diameter of the drill bit when making your marks with the sharpie, otherwise youll come up short and the drive pin wont go in. If drilling the holes free-hand, to ensure the hole is straight, make another mark on the opposite side. This way you can start on one of the marks and go half way, then go from the other side and meet the other hole in the middle of the axle. For best results use a drill press that has a clamp cuz its pretty hard to get em exactly straight when drilling free-hand. You only get one chance to get it right!

    For this type of hardened steel, youll want to use a Cobalt 135°split point Drill Bit. The 135° split point ensures a fast start with no walking or skating and penetrates faster with less pressure, which is always a good thing when using a bit this small. Use lots of drilling lube or wd40 while drilling the hole, this will keep the bit cool and make the bit cut faster. Without drilling lube, the bit will just heat up and become dull and useless. Buy a few bits too, they're only a couple bucks each, and trust me, you will break or dull at least a couple of them.







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    Thanks Baldy. I think I'm going to run the new ones on the front and the old ones on the back ! Sounds like an ordeal and I wouldn't want to screw up my new axle stubs.

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    Quote Originally Posted by EmaxxChris View Post
    I used the grub screw to make a mark where the pin would go through. Used a punch to indent the mark deeper to keep the bit from walking. I just held it in my hand. I'm a dentist, so I feel pretty confident with my hands holding drills! Ha! Carbide drill bit from Lowes.
    Quote Originally Posted by BaldyDaniels View Post
    With the stub axle installed on the truck and no hex on the axle, just take a fine point sharpie marker and mark the axle at the point where you will have enough gap to use a teflon shim to protect the bearing. Be sure to compensate for the diameter of the drill bit when making your marks with the sharpie, otherwise youll come up short and the drive pin wont go in. If drilling the holes free-hand, to ensure the hole is straight, make another mark on the opposite side. This way you can start on one of the marks and go half way, then go from the other side and meet the other hole in the middle of the axle. For best results use a drill press that has a clamp cuz its pretty hard to get em exactly straight when drilling free-hand. You only get one chance to get it right!

    For this type of hardened steel, youll want to use a Cobalt 135°split point Drill Bit. The 135° split point ensures a fast start with no walking or skating and penetrates faster with less pressure, which is always a good thing when using a bit this small. Use lots of drilling lube or wd40 while drilling the hole, this will keep the bit cool and make the bit cut faster. Without drilling lube, the bit will just heat up and become dull and useless. Buy a few bits too, they're only a couple bucks each, and trust me, you will break or dull at least a couple of them.


    Sent from Baldy's iPad using your wireless signal. Thanks!

    P2DE(S) - P4DE - EMAXX - FUNNY CAR - MERV
    Very nice info EmaxxChris and BaldyDaniels! Will definitely do that with my CVD axles.

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