Results 1 to 21 of 21
  1. #1
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Akron, OH
    Posts
    31

    Question T-Maxx wont do wheelies

    I bought a Tmaxx 3.3 of a friend the other day, it start fine but it will not do wheelies, and i know they put the wheelie bar on it for a reason. I had to richen the fuel mixture because it was bogging down once it shifted into second, i dont know how he has it tuned, it has the TQ Top Qualifier Traxxas Link 2.4 GHz transmitter, the throttle trim knob it turned all the way up. i dont want to just go turning screws on the carburetor without knowing exactly what i need to be turning. Thank you for all your help as i am new to the hobby.

  2. #2
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    1,081
    I would look up the factory settings for the 3.3 and reset. The motor could be bogging when it shifts into second because it could also be too rich!! This would be a good starting point since you are not sure where he left off from with tuning. You will need to have a good balance between the high and low speed needles on the carb. Leaner settings will get you more power for the wheelies however you need to be careful that you dont lean out the motor too much or you will overheat it because it will not be lubricated properly.

    If you start from factory settings and try small 1/16 incremental turns of the needles (one at a time) until you notice a change in perfomance.

    The traxxas website provides some good info on basic tuning.

    I used to remember what the factory settings were but not anymore and i dont want to give you misleading information and have you tune incorrectly.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by theant; 01-13-2013 at 05:08 PM.
    Kid at heart......and always playin around

  3. #3
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Akron, OH
    Posts
    31
    I did refer to the manual and dvd that comes with truck for tuning information, i could only find factory setting for the low speed needle but did not mess with it, the man at my LHS told me that the low speed needle rarely needs touched and from what i can tell it at factory settings. thank you for the idea i will post with any updates.

  4. #4
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    1,081
    If i remember correctly, the hsn is set at 4 turns out from closed and the lsn is set at 2.5 turns out from closed for factory settings. The idleis set at 1mm. I will look myself too for any more info and post if i find anything.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Kid at heart......and always playin around

  5. #5
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Akron, OH
    Posts
    31
    ok i wont be able to do any adjustments until daytime but whatever i can find would be helpful, would it be bad to tune back to factory settings on both carb and reciever without running and then attempting to run and tune as if it were just broke in?

  6. #6
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    1,081
    Ok. Go to the traxxas website and under products you will find under engines on the right hand side "Trx 3.3".

    Go to support and find "starting the tune for 2.5 & 3.3

    About half way down it shows you what the factory settings are. This is a great reference for tuning that motor.

    Hope this helps you




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by theant; 01-13-2013 at 05:35 PM.
    Kid at heart......and always playin around

  7. #7
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    1,081
    Quote Originally Posted by WarLock626 View Post
    ok i wont be able to do any adjustments until daytime but whatever i can find would be helpful, would it be bad to tune back to factory settings on both carb and reciever without running and then attempting to run and tune as if it were just broke in?
    This is what i would do. It is a good base to begin with. Otherwise in my opinion you are going in blind if you do not know how to tune.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Kid at heart......and always playin around

  8. #8
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Akron, OH
    Posts
    31
    ok thank you for all your help i found the tuning info will post in a few days when i get a chance to try new settings

  9. #9
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Putting the wet stuff on the hot stuff
    Posts
    9,794
    No need to use the throttle trim on a nitro. Set up the carb with factory settings at 4 turns on the HSN, 1.5-1.75 on the LSN and a idle gap of 0.7-1.0mm. Set the throttle trim to "0" and leave it there. With the engine off and the electronics on, move the throttle and adjust the collar on the linkage so that the carb barrel will open and close fully as you pull and release the throttle on the tx.
    The Super Derecho

  10. #10
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Akron, OH
    Posts
    31
    the linkage on the servo?

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Cocoa Florida
    Posts
    3,999
    Quote Originally Posted by WarLock626 View Post
    the linkage on the servo?
    Yup the collar on the linkage rod at the servo arm.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Milwaukie, Or
    Posts
    285
    Ya adjust the Linkage so that WHen the Engine is Off and Electronics are on that when you are a WOT the carb is fully open (be sure that the Throttle bellcrank is not moving to far and overtraveling or binding at WOT) you will surely notice it if the linkage going from bellcrank to the Carb is Threaded in to far allowing Bellcrank to overtravel ( I mention this since it was a used Vehicle and I found This issue on one of mine I got Used).
    Set the Locking Collers with the set screw so that when TX is pulled to WOT the carb is fully open and when you let the TX go to Nutral (no pressure on throttle/brake trigger that the Carb is allowed to go to closed.
    T-Maxx 3.3 :)

  13. #13
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Akron, OH
    Posts
    31
    ok i got it properly adjusted just waiting for LHS to open so i can buy new fuel tank and let her rip. i appreciate all the help, i did not see anything binding, i had to adjust the collar on the linkage, the linkage at bell crank was not in need of adjustment.

  14. #14
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    SE Lower Michigan
    Posts
    250
    Last edited by Double G; 01-14-2013 at 12:01 PM. Reason: merge, usage of edit button would have worked best

  15. #15
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Akron, OH
    Posts
    31
    ok read both links very helpful information there. when i bought the truck engine was binding at TDC, LHS told me to go home flush engine with wd 40 and it will help re-seat the piston into the sleeve, he said a possible cause of incorrect break-in, i did exactly like he said and it cranks fine, now that was 2 days ago and haven't run since, when i do should i treat it like an UN-broke in engine and do break-in procedure?

  16. #16
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Putting the wet stuff on the hot stuff
    Posts
    9,794
    It wouldn't hurt but if the engine has been run for a few tanks doing a break-in won't be beneficial. Start from scratch with the carb settings and the linkage and then tune.
    The Super Derecho

  17. #17
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Akron, OH
    Posts
    31
    ok so i took my T-Maxx to work today and had it in the shop... it was probably about 50 to 55 degrees in the shop, i let the truck get as warm as it could in the office, i reset the carb to the factory settings and now it will not idle, what am i doing wrong?

  18. #18
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Hackettstown,NJ
    Posts
    1,442
    at idle, is the gap in the carb between .7 and about 1.0mm wide.. alot of times when you are tweaking the carb and linkages,you can forget the carb opening.
    Maxx3.3/ rusty5700/ slash3800/ slash5700 /4tec3.3

  19. #19
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Akron, OH
    Posts
    31
    yes i spent probably half an hour just staring at the diagram and at the opening making sure that they looked similar, i had to adjust but not sure if it is within that range, now would i measure it?

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Cocoa Florida
    Posts
    3,999
    Number size drill bits, use the smooth shank that goes into the drill chuck to set the Idle Gap.
    A #60/#61 drill bit is just smaller & just larger then 1mm, either will work.

    1mm is 0.0394in, #61 bit is 0.0390in & #60 is 0.0400in.

    Put the bit or paperclip in the carb throat &back off the Idle Gap screw, then screw it in till it just barely touches/moves the throttle slide & your set.

    Or you can mic a paperclip & use it if you have one the right size, if you can't measure/don't have the tools to measure the get one of the above # drill bits & substitute it for the paper clip like in the pic.


    Drill bit size chart, gives fraction, number size, MM & Inch size.
    http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-drillsize.htm
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  21. #21
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Akron, OH
    Posts
    31
    ok got it adjusted unfortunately had to work late so i wont be able to test it today... hopefully tomorrow, will post with any problems, thank you for all the help.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •