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  1. #1
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    convert to 17mm, and add 5-6mm of width.

    So...... I just learned the hard way that 1/10 wheels do not fit our cars. Fortunately I was able to cancel the orders for tgem before they shipped out.

    I have a body on the way that is exactly 13mm wider than stock. So, I need to add 5-6mm of width to each axle.

    I guess I also need to convert the axles to 17mm hex.

    On a 1/10 scale wheel... the answer is simple - just buy 6mm offset wheels.

    Its important to me to be able to use standard 1/8 wheels so I have more of a selection.

    So........

    The 12mm to 17mm conversion kits... do they add any width to the car?

    If not.... what would be a feasable solution? I have seen "widening kits" but they are claiming to add 17mm of width to each axle... WAY too much.

    Suggestions?

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. humayrayakongkinaon's Avatar
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    i'm using a wider arms from RC solutions and tekno M6 F/R set CVD and XO-1 F/R knuckles. the width is enough for my protoform PF8 GT body and that i have to use the 17mm revo hexes.
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  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
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    You might be able to find two pairs of Front 2wd 17mm adapters which will widen the truck a bit. If you buy a set of four 4wd adapters it won't widen it as much.
    I think you can buy front AKA adapters.
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    There are adapters out there that add different amounts of width. BUT, remember than most buggy wheels have LOWER offset than the stock wheels. So, if you need 6mm of width per side, youd actually need 12mm wider 17mm adapters per side. If you just use +6 adapters you end up with a car that is stock width. I use +6 adapters with my 1/8 wheels and it ends up being bnearly the exact same width as the stock wheels.

    You CAN find +9 offset adapters (integy makes them, im NO fan of integy but I do use their 17mm adapters right now). That would give you +3 per side VS stock and wouldnt really be THAT bad with your body. 3mm would hardly be noticeable.
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  5. #5
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    Humay --- I did some research on those arms... and they add about an inch to the overall width of the car (25mm or 12.5 per side)

    With the reduction in offset using 1/8 wheels.... by my math..... the overall result would be just about perfect.

    With me research... I found a seller that says I need to buy 3 sets of traxxas toe ends (#2336a). Wouldn't I need 4 sets?

    Also... I'm getting conflicting results on #2336A.... Are they 61mm, or 78mm? Which is correct?

    Are there any other mods that need to be done. Is the driveshaft ok?

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. humayrayakongkinaon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninefourteener View Post
    Humay --- I did some research on those arms... and they add about an inch to the overall width of the car (25mm or 12.5 per side)

    With the reduction in offset using 1/8 wheels.... by my math..... the overall result would be just about perfect.

    With me research... I found a seller that says I need to buy 3 sets of traxxas toe ends (#2336a). Wouldn't I need 4 sets?

    Also... I'm getting conflicting results on #2336A.... Are they 61mm, or 78mm? Which is correct?

    Are there any other mods that need to be done. Is the driveshaft ok?
    to be honest with you, i did'nt buy the recomended #2336A, instead i use my slayer toelinks and swap out the rod ends with the rally rod ends.
    the stock driveshafts is OK but i do recomend buying the aluminum 12mm hexes or if you go with 17mm i recomend go with the XO-1 knuckles F/R with tekno M6 CVD's set.
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  7. #7
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    I know I'm going to need the width.... so I think the arms are necessary because I've read post after post of integy failures... especially by extending the axle like that... so I think this is a better way to do it.

    With that said.... I'm not 100% sure I want to go with 1/8 wheels. I have a feeling they might be HUGE looking on the new body. While it is 13mm wider.... I believe it is shorter. I'm not looking to build a Subaru "Donk".

    So.... I think I'm going to extend the arms... get it all set up appropriate while still a 12mm hex..... and then test-fit a few sets of wheels when I can make it to a hobby shop.

    I have a sneaking suspicion that the stock Rally wheels will be the most aesthetically scaled and pleasing wheels..... but then there is the issue with the color, and the fact that the wheels are glued on.... so perhaps a similar sized Slash wheel is in order.... maybe.

    I'll keep researching.... but the fact that the seller told me I have to buy THREE sets is what is really throwing me off. If he would have said 4 sets... that would make sense... and I probably would have already bought them.

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. humayrayakongkinaon's Avatar
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    he mentioned three set of #2336A because it comes in pair per set, 2 are for the steering link and 4 are the toelinks.
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  9. #9
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    Ahhhh.... ok... that makes sense.

    Ok.... I just had an interesting thought... but first let me throw some specs out here:
    Rally interior wheel diameter - 3 inches (too big aesthetically)
    Rally exterior wheel diameter - 2.2 inches (too small aesthetically)

    Oh.... and I need 13mm total extra width.

    Revelation (maybe)... what exactly is keeping me from using a Jato wheel?

    wheel diameter = 2.85 inches..... right in the middle..... perfect.
    Plus.... they are 12mm hex.... so no need for adapters, etc.

    I'm not sure what the difference between the F + R wheels are..... but is there anything keeping me from using them? They might be absolutely perfect for what I need.... and there are some attractive designs available too.

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. humayrayakongkinaon's Avatar
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    thats what i'm running now rear jato wheels/tires.



    the front wheels are non hexes being a rear wheeldrive only.
    Last edited by humayrayakongkinaon; 01-14-2013 at 12:21 AM.
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  11. #11
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    That is EXCEPTIONALLY helpful... thank you. I just found the exceptionally low-profile J Concepts "G-locs" tire... and I think it would be perfect for my application. Those are a 12mm hex, right? So essentially, I could bolt them right up?

    I am confused though.... you have extended the width of your car with the arms by a full inch....
    Yet your total width is 12.5"

    I just measured my car.... and I came up with 11.75 (bone stock everything)

    With that.... would installing the Jato wheels actually give me LESS width?

    Either way..... the extended arms.... the turnbuckles.... and a set of rear Jato wheels will put my width at exactly the same as yours (12.5 inches).... thats exactly 3/4 of an inch more than what I am at now.

    .75 inches = 19mm. That is about 3mm per side too much for the body I bought.

    But I bet low profile tires and a little extra trimming will take care of every bit of it. I think that is my plan...

    extended a-arms
    3 sets of turnbuckles
    2 sets of Jato rear wheels
    2 sets of Jconcepts g-locs tires

    any surprises I should expect?

    BTW... thank you.... that picture you just posted cleared up a LOT for me.

    If that isn't enough.... one of the VERY popular aftermarket (and cheap) 2.8 Jato wheels..... look EXACTLY like my Work wheels on my Subie... minus a little bronze spraypaint.

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. humayrayakongkinaon's Avatar
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    its actually pretty wide for my PF8 body that the tires rubbing at the edge of the wheel wells but, when my XO-1 knuckles and tekno M6 cvds arrives, i can use my 17mm buggy wheels/onroad tires and that will set properly inside the wheel wells using the revo 17mm hexes. i have a mocked up picture of what it would look like.

    jato wheels rubbing



    what body do you have?
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  13. #13
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    This one:

    http://www.deltaplastik.it/index.php...ti&l=ita&id=71

    I don't have it yet, but the width is 310mm.... exactly 13mm wider than stock.

    By my calculations.... the outside of your tires are exactly 317mm. Thats 3mm extra per side (if I were to use those arms on my application)..... but I am not going to set mine as low as yours either.

    What is the width of that body?
    Last edited by ninefourteener; 01-14-2013 at 01:10 AM.

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. humayrayakongkinaon's Avatar
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    http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Protofor...item5aed24e875

    the wheelbase is 320mm, width 310mm same as yours.
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  15. #15
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    According to Protoform... the width of that body is 279mm.
    http://racepf.com/on-road-1-8/pf8-gt-clear-body/

    I see a good 4 or 5mm of tire peeking out the back.... for a total of 10(ish)mm extra. If your body were 295mm, those tires would tuck under there nicely... but probably still rub a little.

    At 310mm.... I might just be a few mm short of "hellaflush"... but I do actually take it off road as well.. and may get several sets of Jato wheels/tires to swap them out. Maybe there is a very small spacer I can use if I am a couple mm short?

    I think I'm pretty much convinced..... just don't want to break out a credit card just yet and end up having to write several different sellers and ask them to canx my order. The thought of not having to do a 17mm conversion is nice though.

  16. #16
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    Hmmmm... conflicting information. what does the tape measure say the body width is?

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. humayrayakongkinaon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninefourteener View Post
    The thought of not having to do a 17mm conversion is nice though.
    thats so true, i prefer lenghtened the arm than extending the hexes, puts a strain on the bearings.
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  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. humayrayakongkinaon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninefourteener View Post
    Hmmmm... conflicting information. what does the tape measure say the body width is?
    i measured it again and its 12.5"/317mm
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  19. #19
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    Ehhh.... We;re only talking about a coupe mm..... I think with a little trimming it will look great.

    The d-locs tires are actually a few mm thinner and shorter than the anacondas you are using too.... and I will be sitting a bit higher as well. I think it will work out ok
    Last edited by ninefourteener; 01-14-2013 at 06:55 AM.

  20. #20
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    I'm going to wait until the body shows up before I buy anything. I cannot find another person using that body anywhere.... so I don't want to rely on that "310mm" too heavily. I could need just a set of 2.8 wheels with a zero offset....... or I could need to modify the entire suspension.

    The protoform website lists your body at 279mm wide... and it is actually 317. That is a scary difference, and if the body I bought is way off.... I'd hate to go spending over $100 in suspension components if i don't need to.

    I've definitely made up my mind on the 12mm hex 2.8 wheels with d-locs tires though... no doubt.
    Last edited by ninefourteener; 01-14-2013 at 08:07 AM.

  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    The front offset stampede/rustler wheels, stampede 4x4 wheels are all the same as the jato rear wheels. EXACTLY the same. Same part number. You can go with those and gain some width for sure. If you needed a few MM more you can buy the stock FRONT wheel hex from a 2X4 stampede or rustler and gain about 2mm per side without changing anything else. They are about double the thickness of the stock rally hexs.

    The Glocs are a great looking tire. They really look to me like they are bigger in diameter than they say they are. But I dont own a pair.

    Check the specs on the Jconcepts scalpel body. Its designed to use the same offset wheels as the ones your thinking of so if its the same width as the body you want to buy, things should fit fine.

    IMO, its better to have your wheels a few MM too far INSIDE the body than a few MM to far OUTSIDE the body. If they stick out too far they will rub like crazy and youll have to open up your wheel wells alot, which wont look right. A few MM inside and the rubbing issue goes away so you can trim the wheel wells very close to the real diameter of the tire.
    Pede, Summit,
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  22. #22
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    Thanks Pave.

    Its funny... I LITERALLY just got off the phone with a tech over at JConcepts. He busted out a micrometer and gave me EXACT specifications on both versions of the Rulux wheel that they offer.

    I've also got a friendly post over in the Jato forum asking a Jato owner to give me the same exact specs on a factory Jato wheel.

    I imagine.... there will be 3 different tolerance/backspacing/total width choices to choose from.

    The plan is when the body comes in.... I should be able to take "actual" measurements.... not just "theoretical" measurements based on the manf. specifications.... and then choose which wheel is the most appropriate for my setup. I may even need to buy the extended A-arms and turnbuckles.... which is fine... but I need to "know" first.

    The problem is that while delta plastiks says the body I bought is 310mm wide... I can't trust that to be exact. The other problem is that after numerous Google searches... I cannot find a single picture of the body I purchased anywhere other than the Delta plastiks website. Apparently I'm the only person on the planet that is going to use it. LOL

    More to follow..... I'll probably do a build thread like some of the other folks on here. They (obviously) know more than I do... but I figure all this research I'm doing may help out someone else, you know? Plus, build threads are fun. I started one 6 years ago with my "real" Subaru on an international Subaru forum.... and it is currently 58 pages long with over 66,000 views

  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    Im glad your willing to be a guinea pig for that body company. If it works and fits im guessing there are quite a few rally owners who would buy one for sure.
    Pede, Summit,
    ERBE, Rally,
    Motley Crew, 1SQ

  24. #24
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    That company actually makes a LOT bodies that carry the EXACT same dimensions.

    The problem is the euro exchange rate... and the shipping.... then they charge additional for sticker kits and the rear spoiler.

    All in all... I spent $111.00 on that body.

    But...... just about all of these bodies should all fit as well:

    http://www.deltaplastik.it/index.php...at2=11&cat3=15

    Some of them look kinda stupid..... some of them look pretty decent though.
    Last edited by ninefourteener; 01-14-2013 at 01:08 PM.

  25. #25
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    Does anyone happen to have a set of rear Jato and/or rear Rustler wheels? I am not having any luck getting anyone to respond over in the Jato forum.

    If possible, would you measure as closely as possible:

    1. The exact width of the wheel (not tire)
    2. The exact distance from the hub mounting surface, to the inside lip of the wheel.

    That info will be able to tell me exactly how far "out" each wheel will sit. Thanks in advance!

  26. #26
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    Did you receive the body already?
    I want to use a Deltaplastik body in my build too and want to know your experience with it

  27. #27
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    Thanks for the link....


    I'm thinking the M3 Body! Though, I'd definitely make sure not to go with a paint/masking scheme of that red bull junk. I'll shoot for more of a Laguna Seca scheme. White with the GTR M3 decals... And of course, a big fat red traxxas graphic on the hood!

    Thanks again to all who have done the hard work and determined what wheel combos and suspension components are needed.

    - Joe

  28. #28
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    you got a good deal on that body as my buddy sold his kyosho 1/8 suburu body for 190 on ebay
    XO-1,SLASH 4X4 ,SLASH 2WD , 2/RUSTLER

  29. #29
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    190.... Just for a body that will probably never see dirt. At least mine wouldn't if it cost 190. That's almost half the price of a new rally.

    Guess my budget will have to exclude that M3 body. Lol

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