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  1. #1
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    Just arrived w/ PICS! Weird Issue though.

    So.... I'll start with the issue. I plugged in the factory battery. The directions said it needed 8 hours to charge. The light turned green in about 4.

    I did put the higher gear in it... because I was driving up and down the street, not in the dirt or grass.

    I took it out.... drove it around for 10-12 minutes, and within a 60 second period, it declined in speed to almost nothing. I thought perhaps it didn't charge fully? Is 10-12 minutes all I should expect on the factory battery?

    Brought it back inside, and both the motor and the battery pack were pretty darn hot. I don't know the exact temperature. I could touch them.... but I couldn't hold my hand on them for more than 3-4 seconds.... the battery or the motor.

    The red light was on on the speed controller. Does that mean I overheated it? Or are temps like this perfectly normal after a run?

    Should I wait until the battery cools to put it back on the charger?

    I'm hoping this is normal.... but admittedly, I'm worried.

    I hate to open up a brand new rally with a story like that.... but anyway.... it's here. I absolutely love it. I was AMAZED at how quick it is with the factory battery. I can't even imagine the 3s Lipo that is coming in next week.

    I'm not a "flashy" type person, so I didn't use many of the stickers. I removed the big one because the car seems like a rolling traxxis commercial, and I relocated the "rally" sticker to a place I felt looked more appropriate.

    I was PLEASANTLY surprised to see the blue traxxis aluminum driveshaft. I thought that was an aftermarket part that had to be purchased. I was also happy to see the higher pinion gear included in the box... that was an unexpected surprise as well.

    A little uneasy... but VERY happy












  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    12 minutes is a realistic run time for the included NIMH pack with the higher pinion. IMO, you shouldnt run that pinion at all. Traxxas includes it so you have the ability to hit their claimed top speeds with 3S lipos but your only supposed to use it for short speed runs with cool down periods in between. If you overheat the motor even once, you damage the magnets and they are not repairable. Basically, the motor will never be the same. The speed is fun, but its not worth it.

    The manual will tell you what the red light on the ESC means. Im pretty sure it does mean it went into thermal shut down but I havent run a VXL on NIMH mode in a long time. The fact that it slowed so quickly suggests it went into limp mode after a thermal but again, I'm not %100 sure. A nimh battery should not drop in speed so quickly. Generally they will start to loose a bit of power after the first few minutes of running then slowly decrease in power throughout the rest of the run until you notice power is very low and stop running. Nimhs WILL get hot, even when gearing is correct. BUT, overgearing like you have puts even more strain on your NIMH pack and can do damage to it as well.

    Put the stock pinion back in it and run it like that. Get an ESC fan if you want to run higher gearing and at least a heat sink for the motor. BUT... MOST IMPORTANT. Get a temp gun. Its not a "nice thing to have" you NEED IT. You must keep an eye on the motor heat until you know and trust how your system and setup runs. Otherwise you risk damaging an expensive motor.

    Finally, I was under the impression the stock wall charger would take around 4 hours. Not 8. The one time i ran my rally with teh stock battery and used the wall charger it took only 4 hours. But if the green light is green... dont worry about how long it took... just run it.
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  3. #3
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    Ok... I guess I just needed to hear that the battery will get hot. I cant imagine I blew the motor in 10 minutes of driving on the factory battery, with factory supplied parts.... in high 50 degree temps.

    Ill change back to the smaller gear as you've suggested. Ill pick up a heat gun tomorrow at harbor freight as well.

    What is a heat sink?
    Recommend a good fan?
    What temp is "too hot to continue"?

  4. #4
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    A heat sink transfers the heat from the motor to the plate or "heatsink", same idea as what's on a computers proccesor, much more effective with thermal paste applied. The castle fan I have never used so I can't comment on it. And believe it or not, I will be the first to say stay away from Integy LOL, but there fan is alright, one of the only things I will ever use from them.

    Example here of a heatsink and fan. As you can see, it just goes around the can of the motor.



    I wouldn't run it past 170 degrees for temps on the motor.
    R4lly GT8 | Backsl4sh | Sl4sh MT | Sl4sh | P4de

  5. #5
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    Thanks!

    170 is REALLY hot. I dont think the motor got nearly that hot. I couldnt even touch it if it were that hot.

    That explains the little red pigtail coming off the wiring harness that doesnt attach to anything. I thought it might have been for hooking up LEDs or something.

    Thanks... ill hop online in a few minutes and pick one up.

    2nd question - can you recommend a decent set of struts that are easier to adjust the ride height? I'd like to be able to just be able to turn the collars relatively quickly to adjust the height up and down.... like a real set of coilovers. Instead of having to pop in a spacer like the stock ones. Does anyone make anything like that?
    Last edited by ninefourteener; 01-11-2013 at 11:40 PM.

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    They say 180 is safe but 200 is damaging for a VXL motor. Castle says their limits are higher but I always try to keep things below 180 as Stephan has said. Traxxas slow a fan for the VXL ESC that just snaps on over the cooling fine and plugs into that little red plug on the side of the ESC. Works good but a fan should never be relied on to keeps temps under the safe level. If it ever failed you'd end up with a ruined motor.
    Motor temps are funny, you can run for 10 minutes and they stay below 150 then in 2 minutes they jump up unexpectedly. This is why you need to keep an eye on them at first. Once you get a feel for your system you won't have to check as often. I almost never check my stampede because I know it so well. Temps never go above 160. But I always check my rally becuse I don't know it as well yet.
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  7. #7
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    Check out the proline powerstroke shocks as well as the Losi Ten-T shocks. Both verry good sets, the Losi are better IMO.

    Here's the fan as well for the ESC.



    ProLine Shocks



    Losi Ten-T Shocks

    Last edited by Stephan81; 01-11-2013 at 11:45 PM.
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  8. #8
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    I like those losi struts.

    How can I run a fan on both the motor and the speed controller? There is only one pigtail?

  9. #9
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    I've been researching heat sinks, fans, and ESC fans. I did see a wiring harness that allows you to run 2 fans. No need though, I can solder a harness up and heat shrink it.

    I saw a dual fan assembly for the motor.... is that intended to cool the motor AND the ESC???... Or is it just 2 fans for the motor? I would assume that would be the easiest route to go.... but if it is more effective to go with a separate (single) motor fan, and an additional ESC fan... I can go that route as well. Thoughts, opinions?

    The price is minimal either way, so I think investing in the best way to keep everything as cool as possible would be a good thing.

    The price on Losi ten-t shocks is NOT minimal ($100 - ouch) though. I really like the blue... but I don't like it that much.

  10. #10
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    Yeah the dual fans is for the motor. You can also run the fan for your motor through your reciever. Average price for those Losi shocks is about 60 just look on ebay and bid on them. I've never paid more than that anyway. You can also build your own for a little more but you can pick what color that way. Red, Blue, Silver, Gun Metal.
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  11. #11
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    Hey!! Glad to see you got your Rally in. Like said above I'd highly recommend removing the optional pinion and going back to the stock one. Get you a heatsink, Integy being a decent one, and not many of their other parts are worth the package they are slapped in. Also an IR Temp Gun, like you said. One of those things that are good to have in your box. Especially when it starts to warm up and you want to run many hours in a row. You will have way more fun with a Lipo, make sure you slap the 13T back in there and check temps incremently while bashing the first couple of times. At least feel save with the setup and heat.

    For shocks the Losi Ten-Ts can be picked up off ebay (blue) for fairly cheap, between $50-60. If you don't like that color you can build them up using STRC parts in almost any flavor. I'll snag that link with all the parts you will need if you decide on them. You can build them yourself for about the same price as the ebay chop shops I just noted. A couple of other choices for threaded bodies are Proline Powerstrokes, they are way expensive to. By the time you buy the available springs they will cost you around $120-140. Whew!! I do own a set and they are nice but nothing compared to Losi's. One more good choice: Traxxas just released an LCG Slash 4x4 Edition with new GTR shocks. They have alloy threaded bodies, TiNi shafts and all the other goodies. Basically a Losi Ten-T shock. I picked them up off ebay to a few weeks ago for the same price as the Losi's. I had to try them!! LOL So far i'm very impressed.

    Here is a pick of the Losi Ten-T's (left) & Traxxas GTR's (right)


    Powerstrokes on my P4de:


    Losi Ten-T/ STRC alloy on Sl4sh:






    Link to the shock build & parts list. <<< Losi Ten-T/ STRC >>>
    A little option for ya there. LOL Many other good shocks out there, these are the ones i've run. Hope it helps ya out.
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  12. #12
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    15 min. at best is all I get when running up and down the street with the stock battery, and yes the battery is pretty warm after. I haven't tried the bigger gear because I didn't think the stock battery would have enough ZAP to even make a speed differenceWelcome to Rally crowd!
    On tour - 2 wheels/2wd/4wd

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    Why do you need shocks? You've only run the car once. I don't see any need to upgrade the shocks on the rally unless you plan to bash it really hard. I put about 25 packs through mine when I first got it and didn't break a thing. Shocks work fine just the way the are.
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  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. DiggerPede's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pavmentsurfer View Post
    Why do you need shocks? You've only run the car once. I don't see any need to upgrade the shocks on the rally unless you plan to bash it really hard. I put about 25 packs through mine when I first got it and didn't break a thing. Shocks work fine just the way the are.
    Pave he was asking for a shock with easier adjustment. The collars are kinda sorta easy but you don't always carry them with you, or at least I dont. If I feel I want to make a change out in the field I take a few turns and keep them close as possibly in change. This was his statement a few posts down....

    2nd question - can you recommend a decent set of struts that are easier to adjust the ride height? I'd like to be able to just be able to turn the collars relatively quickly to adjust the height up and down.... like a real set of coilovers. Instead of having to pop in a spacer like the stock ones. Does anyone make anything like that?
    That's why we referred shocks that had threaded bodies. I bash the ultra's on a couple of my rides w/o much issues. I'm just not a fan of the collar presets.
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  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    Ahhh, missed that one on my tiny phone screen. Hehe.
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  16. #16
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    Go with the Traxxas 13mm GTR shocks. Those are decent shocks.
    And there he goes with the carbon...

  17. #17
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    Thanks folks! Okay....... so the Integy dual fan for the motor....... AND the traxxas speed controller fan. That will be a total of 3 total fans.... is that ok? Is that going to completely kill my battery life?

    The way the heat sink / fan mounts to the motor..... does it wrap around the aft (shaft) side of the motor and extend over the forward side......... or vice versa?

    Shocks.... they are a nice thing to have, and having the easy adjustability would be an added bonus. They are not an immediate thing though. Eventually, Id like to convert several of the structural components over to blue aluminum. It looks nicer.... stronger..... and matches well to my own Subaru. It is silver with bronze wheels...... and several of my structural /braking / suspension components I had powdercoated blue.

    i had a hard time determining what SIZE the shocks are. Arent they rated in mm or something? There is almost nothing for a rally... but lots for a slash. But there are slash 2wd shocks and 4wd shocks.... I was nervous about buying without knowing exactly what I needed.
    Both fans being ordered today.... as well as a temp gun.

    Thanks folks.... this forum is awesome!

  18. #18
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    Here is pic of mine. I have the traxxas esc fan which snaps securely to the esc. Also an integy big 540 heatsink. It was not made or a fan but it had bigger fins to move the heat away from the motor, and I attached a fan using plastic weld.

    I use a 3s lipo and moved down to a 11t pinion and temps never get near 200 and its still fast.

    As others have done, I installed a revo heavy duty slipper as the stock blew out after a few runs.

    And with the 3s lipo, a aluminum bearing adapter is recommended . I installed one as others recommended .





  19. #19

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. DiggerPede's Avatar
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    Looks good man. The little fans arent really going use that much juice that you will notice.
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  21. #21
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    You may have a problem with the twin fan heatsink. It may not fit with the way the motor is mounted.

  22. #22
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    You think just a single fan instead for the motor?

  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. DiggerPede's Avatar
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    If you mount on top of the motor parallel to the chassis you might be ok. You could also rotate the motor where the wires are out of the way if they are. If it still has an issue installing you could pull the second fan and trim that plate and keep the other fan as a spare. You might be ok though. I think my buddy runs the twin fans on his Slash 4x4 perfectly.
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  24. #24
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    Well.... I dont want to run into any issues just yet.... so I may just stick with a single fan for the motor. Lipo came in today... so I might need it

    On a lighter note... I swapped the gear back to the smaller one today and it ran like a champ!

  25. #25
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    Everyone has their opinions but, IMO a fan is useless. Sure it cools down temps on the outside of the can, but realistically I doubt it cools the internal parts. That being said, can't hurt to run one and the heat sink will do more than the fan itself. Buy a IR gun for sure, monitor a few times and get your gearing setup and leave it from there once you got temps your happy with. I can't even remember the last time I used my temp gun. When I first got into the hobby I was all paranoid and a hawk about it, checking temps frequently, honestly it took some of the fun out of it for me worrying all the time about temps LOL. Now I don't even care, and know what motors can handle what gearing in what application like 2wd, 4wd etc...
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  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    I dont think a fan on the motor is worth it. Get a decent heat sink and just use that. The problem with using fans on a motor is that if the fan fails the motor can overheat. These fans are tiny and do fail often. Gear the motor to run at the proper temp with just a heat sink, add the fan if you want to for extra peace of mind. The fan on the ESC is fine as well because the ESC has thermal protection, so even if the fan fails, the ESC will shut off before it melts itself. The motor does not have this feature.

    Additionally, you CAN run into trouble by adding too many fans. Your ESC only supplies a specific amount of power to the RX to power the truck (radio and servo). Adding more fans, particularily to the VXL system, has proven to cause glitching and brown outs. 3 fans is too much, 2 fans is doable but not necessary. one fan and a heat sink is what I would suggest.
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  27. #27
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    Pede..... do you have the correct part numbers (or set #) for those traxxas gtr shocks? Of all the shocks I have looked at and priced, they seem the most suitable for what I need, and the most reasonably priced.

    Or just the correct size? Ive been looking at a lot of slash 4x4 parts..... but it appears that all 4 slash shocks are the same size, whereas the rally shocks have 2 different sizes.
    Last edited by ninefourteener; 01-12-2013 at 09:08 PM.

  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    Slash 4X4, rally, slash 2X4, Stampede 2X4 AND 4X4, Rustler and Bandit shocks are all the same. The only difference is the 4X4 models have a slighter narrower or wider (cant remember which) bottom pillow ball. Otherwise, they are the same. The previous ultimate slash 4X4 had the original traxxas big bore shocks which are the same length as all the ones listed above. The new slash ultimate has traxxas's new big bore shock set that again, will be the same length but they are actually a real "bigger" bore. The old "big" bore shocks were actually smaller in diameter. Which made no sense. Any shocks for any of the vehicles listed above will work on your rally.
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  29. #29
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    not a part number but a really good price for them.



    http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Traxxas-...item5d38cfb467
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    Thanks folks for all your awesome advice and recommendations. I've been reading, researching, and listening to every bit of it... weighing my options.... trying to shop smart..... staying in my budget..... and trying to avoid buying "garbage" parts. Some of it isn't "exactly" what you recommended..... but my budget was a concern.

    So..... based on all of your recommendations.... I just went on a little mini shopping spree:

    (what I deemed necessary)
    Infrared temp gauge
    traxxas torque control slipper clutch kit
    traxxas ESC cooling fan
    Hot racing (blue) heat sink w/ fan (single)
    traxxas aluminum bearing adapter

    (optional stuff I purchased as well)
    Hot racing big bore aluminum front + rear shocks w/ threaded collars
    1 set of 6.8 lb springs
    1 set of 4.2 lb springs
    3 sets of 1/10 ansmann bronze wheels with a 6mm offset (for the Subie body that is 13mm wider than stock)
    1 set of dirt tires w/ foam (unknown brand)
    1 set of road tires w/ foam (tamiya)
    1 set of drift tires (unknown brand)

    I figure this will get me started..... and keep me busy during my upcoming Florida trip. I believe there is a large hobby shop near Fort Walton Beach in case I have to run out and get something immediately (tire glue, shock oil, etc)
    Last edited by ninefourteener; 01-13-2013 at 05:42 AM.

  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. DiggerPede's Avatar
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    I use the HR heatsink w/ fan on my P4de. I'm guessing this is the same on you ordered. It helped drop the temps between 5-10. The one i purchased is supposed to be gunmetal but they are more gold. LOL I have bonked a blade off of it already though, that's what happens when you bash. Being you'll keep your car more planted to the ground the fan should last way longer. You have to understand they take a real beating in the RC world. That's why most people don't recommend them.







    I can't wait to see your upgrades slapped on. That puppy is going to look really clean when its done.
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  32. #32
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    I can't wait to see that Subaru Body man, I have wanted to do it since I seen a Sl4sh setup as a rally Subaru, it looked awesome. Evverything looks good that you got except the shocks, I haven't heard anything good about them really, personally I haven't used them so I can't give an opinion. Then again, if you are just staying onroad and doing drifiting etc... Shouldn't have an issue with them.
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    The shocks:

    My first goal was to stay away from integy because everyone says their stuff is junk. I also tried to stay away from "no-name" ebay junk. The problem is that there are SO many of both.

    I looked at the prolines.... but I just couldnt justify the price.
    The losi shocks... Just had a hard time finding them... and the price

    I heard "ok" things about hot racing products and assumed they were around the "mid-range" somewhere.... they had all the adjustability features I wanted, and came with an extra set of springs which allow me to experiment even further with suspension setups..... and they were the right price for my budget. As new at this as I am.... I figured they would suit my needs well.

    Shock oil...... I dont even know where to begin. 10 weight? 50 weight? Somewhere in the middle? Any suggestions?

  34. #34
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. DiggerPede's Avatar
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    It's amazing how the price of those shocks have gone up. Sometimes you find the Losi Ten-T for a decent price and others they are steep. The cheapest I seen was $30 Fr & $35 Rr. Same with the GTR's they range between $50^ for auction. Guessing they are finding these are good shocks and can get more for them. Arghh!!!

    I know nothing about the HR shock setup. Baldydaniels might, he's a huge fan of HR stuff. So far everything i've purchased and used has been very good.
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  35. #35
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    I think youll be the guinea pig for the HR shocks man. Make sure you post up how they work and what you think of the quality. I think for your application they will work just fine. Shocks begin to show their weaknesses when you really start jumping and crashing them hard. For an onroad application theyll be fine im sure.

    Im a little concerned about yoru choice of wheels. You listed that they were for a 1/10. The Rally requires 1/8 size GT car tires/wheels. The 1/10 may not even fit over the castor blocks and they will look TINY on the car.

    Im not sure the slipper unit was necessary. The slipper on the car is considered a "torque control" slipper. Its just not the larger revo unit and asside from blowing a pad here and there, most people dont have any trouble with the stock slipper. I run that slipper on my pede and my rally and its never let me down. You can upgrade to aluminum pads, thats a good way to go. And since you have the new slipper coming you might as well use it, but IMO it is far from a necessary upgrade.

    Looking forward to how all this stuff goes together. Your choice of heatsink/fan for the motor is fine. Ive used that same setup before and it worked well.
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  36. #36
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    Well crap..... you are right. The inside diameter of a 1/10 wheel is 46mm, and the inside diametet of the oem rally wheel is 76mm.

    I just cancelled the purchases of all my wheels and tires..... and feel pretty stupid.

    So I guess I meed a 17mm adapter kit... and some 1/8 wheels.

    So how much further "out" would a traditional 1/8 wheel go on our cars? I purchased a 6mm offset because I need to fill 13 extra mm of width with the new body. Are traditional 1/8 wheels wider? How much?

  37. #37
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. DiggerPede's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninefourteener View Post
    I just cancelled the purchases of all my wheels and tires..... and feel pretty stupid.
    Nah don't feel that way. It happens to the best of us. You will definitely learn by your mistakes. I didnt catch the wheels glad Pave did though. He knows the wheel stuff pretty good. If you look up his and Stephan81's thread you will find what they have purchased and what they look like on the car. I know you will need at least 71.12mm in that ballpark. The Rally wheels are 2.8" on the inside and 2.2" on the outisde, basically an SC wheel. Which in turn you can probably look for something close to that. Sorry i'm not of much help with this. I'm still using the stock wheels/tires and a set of 1/8 buggy wheels once the stockers burn up. I'm still not sure what I want my tread pattern to be, Pave and Stephan have some clean look'n ones that they've mounted and run.
    Last edited by DiggerPede; 01-13-2013 at 01:51 PM.
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    I am not that experienced when it comes to wheel combos and offset etc... But I think your answer here might be some protrac arms for the sl4sh and the +6mm offset 17mm wheels. Don't quote me on this, more experienced guys like Pave, Digger etc... May be able to be spot on and help you here. But this hobby is like that, sometimes you find out the hard way by purchasing stuff to find out it's not what your after, like Pave said sometimes you gotta be the guniea pig hehe. Just take a look at humary's build, he has bought every CVD known to man to try and get the perfect factory look with offset and certain body LOL. The things we do to our RC's, grown men but were like big kids haha!

    All that being said, still can't wait to see that Subaru body, man it's gonna be awesome
    R4lly GT8 | Backsl4sh | Sl4sh MT | Sl4sh | P4de

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