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  1. #1
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    Found my first weak link...

    Was driving the Summit around the yard and doing some sweet backflips off of the small bmx ramp(about a foot tall)...when all of a sudden the back tires quit pulling. Turns out that the front u-joint on the back driveshaft just popped apart. Doesn't look like it hurt anything and once I got it out(9 screws and the u-joint pin) it was pretty easy to pop back together.I put it all back together and hit the yard again.
    After about 10 minutes and quite a few more backflips off the ramp(it's actually pretty easy once you get the hang of throttle control,lol)...now the front tires quit pulling.(I'm thinking...no problem...same issue).
    Turns out I wasn't so lucky this time.
    Motor side front driveshaft u-joint twisted both ears off.
    This one was a little more difficult to get out.
    Had to remove everything I took off before...plus the front skidplate.Then had to pull the pins on the lower arms,and disconnect the steering arm from the servo.
    It was still snug getting it out.



    I'm pretty sure instead of a factory replacement...I want to upgrade both driveshafts and the u-joints.
    Does anyone make aluminum replacements(or something stronger than stock)?
    Or is my only choice for an upgrade switching to the merv shafts?
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  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    That drove my crazy on my first MERV. I ended up switching over to some Aluminum units from Golden Horizon and didnt have any issues after that. What mine were doing was flexing the ears and popping off. Once it did it once it would easily do it again. It was so bad for a while i even modified my center skid tunnel so that i could just undo the 4 rearmost screws and bend it up to access the rear joint which was the one that failed on my all the time.

    Which reminds me i need to pick up 2 sets of those again for my current builds before i start popping those shafts again.

    Curious now if there is anything better than the GH units i had previously.

    ** sorry GPM not GH now that i look for them again.

    These are what i had, there are other options though. Even Traxxas has a steel center CVD kit for the 1/16 lineup.
    http://thetoyz.com/Traxxas/Mini-1-16...ain/GPM/13193/

    And i hear ya about the fronts, they are a real pain to get at. Im tempted to go CVD just for that reason.
    Last edited by Cameron; 01-11-2013 at 07:36 PM.
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  3. #3
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    Got a part number and/or link to where I can get those?
    The rear shaft is easy to get to.The front one is a pain in the ***.
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  4. #4
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    Thanks for the link.
    I have it running 2wd right now so I can still play.(until I snap the rear,lol)
    I'll call around here tomorrow and see if any of the local shops might possibly have these in stock.
    if not I'll be ordering a set asap.
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  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    The only draw back on those is the front is still the 2 tiny short pieces that are a pain to install, but once its on it hols up pretty good. I ran them on my MERV for almost a year before i sold it and never had an issue with them once installed.

    I'm debating right now between a couple of these again or a couple of the Traxxas units.
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Traxxas makes a metal replacement...
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  7. #7
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    Much better than the GPM ones^^^ my $.02

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maxximum Overdive View Post
    Much better than the GPM ones^^^ my $.02
    At 2x the price i would sure hope so

    Im leaning towards the traxxas for no other reason than its a drive cup up front and so much easier to install.
    What is everyone seeing as far as durability on them? Any hints or tips.
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  9. #9
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    You wont break them... Enough said

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RC-nightmare View Post
    You wont break them... Enough said
    works for me
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  11. #11
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    +1 for Traxxas
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  12. #12
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    Those Traxxas ones do look nice.
    What makes them worth twice the price?
    Are they that much more durable than the GPM?

    $35 really isn't that bad though...considering $35 won't buy hardly anything for my other hobby...

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  13. #13
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    I'll probably go with the Traxxas also.

    While we are here...I've been looking at wheelie bars(dang this thing needs one)...
    The plastic Traxxas one doesn't look like it's going to cut it.
    I'm really considering the Integy billet one.
    Are there any better options?
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  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    Don't need one on the Summit IMO

    **edit** never-mind, i keep forgetting the summit is a MERV with big tires. I had mine set up for crawling including the trans gear flip.

    I have the Traxxas unit on my MERV and it works just fine. I have never broken it.
    It has popped open a couple times on odd landings but you just pop it back in and keep on going.
    Last edited by Cameron; 01-11-2013 at 10:21 PM.
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  15. #15
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    I was about to say... don't need one??? wth??? lol.

    At about 50% speed I can't even grab full throttle w/o it lifting the tires.lol.
    I DEFINITELY need a wheelie bar.
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  16. #16
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    Does that happen from being on the throttle when the truck lands?

  17. #17
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    Might have been...but regardless...need a fix so it wont happen.
    Because I don't see me quitting the backflips and you have to stay in the throttle some to get it to flip.
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  18. #18
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    yea, but you don't have to stay on the throttle when it hits the ground. IMHO 90% of the people breaking things never raced and don't know how to drive properly. I'm off my soapbox now at any rate, the CVD's won't fit the summit unless you change the rockers and then you end up loosing ground clearance.

    I bought the merv plastic shaft when my son broke the stock summit one. at 7 bucks a piece, I can just replace them when they break.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by robl45 View Post
    yea, but you don't have to stay on the throttle when it hits the ground.
    1. full throttle
    2. square up truck to the ramp
    3. truck is flying through the air
    4. release throttle
    5. truck lands
    6. back on the throttle

    = no broken driveline parts... Do I have this right?

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by robl45 View Post
    yea, but you don't have to stay on the throttle when it hits the ground. IMHO 90% of the people breaking things never raced and don't know how to drive properly. I'm off my soapbox now at any rate, the CVD's won't fit the summit unless you change the rockers and then you end up loosing ground clearance.

    I bought the merv plastic shaft when my son broke the stock summit one. at 7 bucks a piece, I can just replace them when they break.
    We are talking about the Steel center shafts #7250R
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  21. #21
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    So the Traxxas metal shafts won't fit w/o more mods and lost gc?
    Looks like I'm back to the GPM shafts then.
    I would have been ticked had I ordered them...spent the extra money for the Traxxas ones...and they didn't fit.

    Yes I admit I'm a rookie...and that's probably why I broke it.
    Haven't had a RC car in about 15 years.
    I'm sure this won't be the last thing I break.

    Quote Originally Posted by Honda View Post
    1. full throttle
    2. square up truck to the ramp
    3. truck is flying through the air
    4. release throttle
    5. truck lands
    6. back on the throttle

    = no broken driveline parts... Do I have this right?
    I have noticed that if you lift off the throttle right as it leaves the ramp...it does fly pretty flat.
    But if you want it to backflip...you have to stay in the throttle for a bit.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 01-12-2013 at 06:23 PM. Reason: merge
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  22. #22
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    Ah ok...thanks for clearing that up...back to Traxxas shafts.lol
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  23. #23
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    none of the cvds for the wheels will fit in the summit without loosing drive clearance. as for the jumping, you just have to make sure you have released the throttle before it hits the ground. It can be for a split second as long as it isn't under power when it lands. If you are staying under power when you land, the drive shafts are the least of your concern, the gears in the transmission and everywhere else will strip very quickly.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by robl45 View Post
    none of the cvds for the wheels will fit in the summit without loosing drive clearance. as for the jumping, you just have to make sure you have released the throttle before it hits the ground. It can be for a split second as long as it isn't under power when it lands. If you are staying under power when you land, the drive shafts are the least of your concern, the gears in the transmission and everywhere else will strip very quickly.
    What about the gpm cvd's? From the toyz. Says they're made for the mini summit.
    addicted much....

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by the finisher View Post
    What about the gpm cvd's? From the toyz. Says they're made for the mini summit.
    it also says they are for the mini revo, they won't work without changing the rockers

  26. #26
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    He said that the axle shafts won't fit... nut I'm guessing that the center driveshafts will fit just fine.
    Last edited by dcfox; 01-12-2013 at 11:13 AM.
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  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Center shafts are all the same across all Traxxas 1/16th's.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  28. #28
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    I had a feeling they were. I didn't see how changing suspension geometry would effect the center shafts in any way.

    I guess if I can find either set(Traxxas or GPM) in stock anywhere local...I'll be buying them.
    If I have to order a set...I'll be going Traxxas.
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  29. #29
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  30. #30
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    Thanks... that's the cheapest I've seen them.
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  31. #31
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    There seem to be a couple of part numbers...
    7250R and 5650R the latter have nice boots maybe newer model?

    http://thetoyz.com/Traxxas/Revo/Stee...Traxxas/16539/

  32. #32
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    5650R is the 10th scale e revo

    Usually part # starting with a 7xxx is for the 16th scale

  33. #33
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    you are correct, my mistake.
    too bad I thought boots were cool! may have to buy a 1/10 so I can use em - ha!

  34. #34
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Probably no room for boots in the 16th scale.
    The size difference between the two center shafts are astounding... I should take a comparison pic next time I have them apart!
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  35. #35
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    i would strongly advise against the metal shafts, if you are snapping the plastic ones, the metal likely won't break, but if you are snapping them because you aren't releasing the throttle when landing or when hitting solid objects, you are going to break other things instead and I'd much rather be breaking plastic drive shafts then replacing gears in the transmission.

  36. #36
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    I've learned from my mistakes.
    I may buy a set of metal ones...and one set of plastic ones.(the plastics are cheap enough).
    I can put the plastic ones in first...then if I happen to break another,I'll make the decision then on whether or not to put the metal ones in.
    Buying a few sets of plastic ones wouldn't bother me at all if they were easier to swap.
    Well...if the front was easier...the back isn't bad at all.
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  37. #37
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    I just ordered these for mine, Worst part is the CVD's don't fit the summit only a e revo and slash/rally set. I'm guessing the summit has to much suspension travel for the CVD's?

  38. #38
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    The outer Steel CVD's do not work on the SummitVXL no.
    Just a tad too much travel.
    Good thing is the MERV shafts out perform the SummitVXL stock shafts by far.

    I placed my order today from Liquid-RC for 2 sets of the Center CVD kits.
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  39. #39
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    This thread was about center drive shafts, not half shafts and.... if it did happen (which i doubt) transmission components are no more expensive than a drive shaft.
    There's also no way to logically justify the jockeying of DS plastic to metal based upon anticipated situations unless u have nothing better to do....

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by photon_trap View Post
    This thread was about center drive shafts, not half shafts and.... if it did happen (which i doubt) transmission components are no more expensive than a drive shaft.
    There's also no way to logically justify the jockeying of DS plastic to metal based upon anticipated situations unless u have nothing better to do....
    maybe not for you, been there and done that, if you replace the plastic with metal, something has to break somewhere, a transmission is more of a pain to be messing with than drive shafts.

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