Educate Me Please

[BlackSheep800]

Okay guys I’m going to upgrade the Summit to a Single servo setup. I have had some great advice by a couple of you guys already and have read most of the threads I could find, but still looking for more.

I am still trying to decide which assembly to go with, but think I have it narrowed down to either a Hot Racing or STRC. I also can’t decide which style of servo horn would be the best; I like the looks of the OFNA and HUDY if I were to go with a straight style?? Is one sytle better than the other?

But here is my main question……Servo???? I am looking at the HiTec 7955TG and/or 7950TH or the Savox 1230SG. The spec’s show the Savox to have more torque but it seems as when the torque goes up the speed goes down….I think???? Where is the happy medium?

And most importantly, I don’t understand this whole BEC thing. Besides the fact that a BEC provides a more constant power source to the servo that the ESC can/does. So how do you know if/when a BEC will be required? Are any of you guys able to use a single servo setup without using a BEC?

As always, thanks for your help!!!!!

[jamann]

I'm running my 7955 without bec.it is only 6v. Capable.no issues.they can be run without a bec.You just don't get the full power that the 7.4 capable servos can provide.bec may be required for running two of them.Like a 4ws setup


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[OnebadTMAXX3.3]

i am running a savox 1230 with and external cc/bec from castle creations. I love the servo plenty of power to turn my trenchers x's with tire chains on carpet. no problems centering either. speed isn't to bad either. about the same or faster than the two stock 2075's. I am so glad that i went to one servo versus the two. i also use a alloy servo horn from golden horizons.

[BlackSheep800]

So looking at the spec's it appears the Savox has more torque? But which one is faster? The bigger the number or the smaller the number? The Savox is around $80 and the HiTec is closer to $120.

Savox 1230SG says 500 oz/in @ 6.0V and a speed of 0.16 @ 6.0V

HiTec 7955TG says 333 oz/in @ 6.0V and a speed of 0.15 @ 6.0V

[jamann]

Smaller # is faster but that close you won't notice.i got a great deal on my hitec otherwise I would be looking at the savox.i myself haven't heard anything bad about them.if money were no object
Hitec every time they are a quality servo


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[Jacob Chandler]

How do you guys convert it to a single servo? Do you just take one off and upgrade the other one to a bigger and stronger one? Also, wouldnt there be a big whole where that second servo was?

[Jimmie Neutron]

How do you guys convert it to a single servo? Do you just take one off and upgrade the other one to a bigger and stronger one? Also, wouldnt there be a big whole where that second servo was?

Yup. That about covers it.

[BlackSheep800]

I'm still learning myself but from I have learned so far.......you can buy a Traxxas Cover Plate to fill the hole. The part number is TRA5326X.

[jamann]

There is a little more to be done/considered when converting.
Not lots,just servo horn must be upgraded for starters.Plastic one is not meant for that kinda torque.Steering arm assembly is a option that is worth while as well.



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[BlackSheep800]

This maybe a goofy question but do you put the single servo on the driver or passenger side?

[Jimmie Neutron]

Doesn't matter.

I have not upgraded the arm... still no issues.

[pavmentsurfer]

If you want to do a really strong single servo upgrade here are the parts youll want to look at:

-Servo: Lots of choices. Anything with about 300oz of torque will be enough. The stock servos are really slow, anything faster than .20 will feel faster. I use a Futaba S9157. Its REALLY fast and strong compared to the stock setup. A futaba servo uses the same output spine as the traxxas servos so if you dont want to upgrade the little servo arm just yet, you can use the stock plastic one.

-Servo arm: Id go with aluminum right off the bat with this. All you really need to worry about is that its the right spline for whatever servo you buy. Pretty much everything else will just fall into place.

-Steering arm: You can use the plastic steering arm if you want (you can trim the opposite side of the steering arm off since you no longer need it). But there is ALOT of flex in this area. Going with a single servo steering arm from GHracing is a great idea and adds alot of rigidity to the system. If you do go with a single sided arm, you will install the servo on the drivers left in the chassis.

-Servo saver mod: Once you have a stronger servo, youll begin to see how weak the stock servo saver is. Even with the HD spring its really too loose. Installing a simple washer under the spring makes a HUGE difference. IMO, its a must do mod for a HD servo.

ive been told the traxxas servo hole cover part wont work on a summit. MANY people have told me that and I trust them. You can make your own out of lexan or other plastic (I used an old Tbone skid plate and cut it to fit). Use the 2nd set of servo mounting screws to hold it on.

Ive never found that i needed a BEC. Ive never run one and never had an issue with my setup. Some people say you need one, I dont. You just need to try your system and see if you get brown outs or bad glitching. If you do, a BEC may help. If you dont, dont bother.

[Jacob Chandler]

What is a BEC?

[jamann]

Battery Elimination Circuit
Powers the receiver and in turn the servos


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[Jacob Chandler]

OH, just looked up a picture of it on google. Are they sometimes built into the ESC?

[Jimmie Neutron]

BEC are built into the ESC most of the time.
Once upon a time, long long ago in a galaxy far far away; they were not apart of the ESC.

[onetuffmj]

i just broke my servos and am going with the savox 1230 cuz the price,from reading the forms i can just stuff it in and go?and why not just leave the other old servo in for a bit of extra weight down low,the littile bit it mybe

[pavmentsurfer]

Take the 2nd servo out so theres less clutter. The weight it provides would be no help at all.

[BlackSheep800]

Will the stock linkage still work or do you guys upgrade it too?

And someone please refresh my memory on the servo washer mod, or point me to a thread that discusses it. I think I remember reading that you needed to grind/file it down a little? Plus I can’t remember what size washer you start out with?

[happymachinist]

Linkages are a grey area depending on servo torque and opinion/preference.

You can use all stock linkages if you run a futaba or savox servo since the spline count is the same as Traxxas servos. It's as simple as it gets, plug and play pretty much.

If you upgrade with a hitec servo you will HAVE to get a new horn (spline count differs.)

Leaving linkages stock plastic will have a tendency to have some flex even with the washer mod. That's not necessary a bad thing as the flex in your linkages can help cushion your servo motor/gears from harsh impacts. In a tight crawling bind or high speed "oops" a couple dollar linkage or horn is cheaper than a shelled out servo...but without replacements on hand your dead in the water.

With the above mentioned, a lot of people myself included have upgraded to an aluminum servo saver and horn to take advantage of the servos torque. They are the only aluminum upgrades my summit has. The servo saver is extremly stiff and pretty much non existent, (rigid) in a high speed "oops" it would undoubtedly be bad news for my servo.




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[pavmentsurfer]

Im going on a year with my single futaba servo. Ive got the aluminum servo arm and steering arm and the washer mod done and even after running my summit at my little RC track and crashing it REALLY hard, there has been no negative effects on the servo. But, when your crawling and you REALLY need to force those wheels around at a tight spot, it sure is nice to not have anything flexing or giving in.

[BlackSheep800]

Refresh my memory please......what size washer do you use on the servo spring mod?

[humboldtsmoke]

Linkages are a grey area depending on servo torque and opinion/preference.

You can use all stock linkages if you run a futaba or savox servo since the spline count is the same as Traxxas servos. It's as simple as it gets, plug and play pretty much.

If you upgrade with a hitec servo you will HAVE to get a new horn (spline count differs.)

Leaving linkages stock plastic will have a tendency to have some flex even with the washer mod. That's not necessary a bad thing as the flex in your linkages can help cushion your servo motor/gears from harsh impacts. In a tight crawling bind or high speed "oops" a couple dollar linkage or horn is cheaper than a shelled out servo...but without replacements on hand your dead in the water.

With the above mentioned, a lot of people myself included have upgraded to an aluminum servo saver and horn to take advantage of the servos torque. They are the only aluminum upgrades my summit has. The servo saver is extremly stiff and pretty much non existent, (rigid) in a high speed "oops" it would undoubtedly be bad news for my servo.




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I'm really grateful for all of this info. I just want to be clear: so I literally just need to lose a servo and drop in Futaba and Savox and I'm back on the trails with lots of steering power? I would def get the aluminum upgrades, though.

THANK YOU GUYS!

[happymachinist]

I'm really grateful for all of this info. I just want to be clear: so I literally just need to lose a servo and drop in Futaba and Savox and I'm back on the trails with lots of steering power? I would def get the aluminum upgrades, though.

THANK YOU GUYS!

Bingo! As long as you get a futaba or savox with lots of power


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[humboldtsmoke]

Thanks! I bought a Savox 1230sg with some aluminum servo pieces+ heavy saver spring last night. If I plastic dip it to make it waterproof, does that mean I wont be able to open it up in the future if I need to?

[jamann]

Plasti dip is great as it will peel right off when needed.takes a bit of work but comes off clean.For what it's worth,
A little around the wires a bit around the seams and some grease where the output comes out and it's pretty much highly water resistant.


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[RallyST]

Wow... Plastidip sure has gone far. Dipyourcar.com sure blew it up to all possibilities. I've dipped entire cars with this stuff. Great product, works wonders for non permanent painting

[happymachinist]

Plasti dip is great as it will peel right off when needed.takes a bit of work but comes off clean.For what it's worth,
A little around the wires a bit around the seams and some grease where the output comes out and it's pretty much highly water resistant.


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I would tape off the majority of the aluminum case and do just the seams like jamann said. It acts as a heat sink. This would allow you leave as much non-plastidiped aluminum as possible to help disapate the heat higher performance servos generate.

Basically tape off so there's about 1/16-1/8" of plastidiped aluminum at the seam.

Some people pull the servo apart and plastidip the circuit board inside instead of doing the outside. This is more in depth and you need to be very careful. It will also void manf. Warranty if somthing were to go wrong...unless you were to disassemble and peel off the plastidip before you return it.


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[jamann]

I will be honest I did not waterproof my hitec....I know foolish ...I was going to do it honest,just slipped my mind.
But that being said I run in the wet and rain pretty regular(not submerging it all the time) but it gets wet. So far no issues
http://youtu.be/VG34WaVDg10


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