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  1. #1
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    I think I blew up Tranny :(

    Was out Running my Hill climb I have down across the main Road from my house and all of a sudden it started sticking in Second then bam I got nothing of course It died and I could not get it to refire.
    Started doing that right before it Lost forward Gears.
    I guess maybe having the slipper clutch may have been built and installed to keep this from happening?
    Oh well I need to dissassemble it anyway as its been a couple weeks since I had the chassis apart and I want to check some things anyway.
    I am hoping maybe the Dohickeys that engage 1st and then second possibly stuck due to colder weather.
    One nice thing I have not lost 1 single Glow plug in awhile (but that is a thread in TRX Engines anyway)

    I think the crazy Truck Gave me Pnomonia (or however you spell it) as I got sicker then I have been in a long time on X-Mas Eve after running Both Trucks on Hill.
    I have some cool Videos was going to get some today but go Figure my Rechargeable batteries do not work in camera Even after all night charge camera states they are dead.
    Anyway I will post links to my Youtube channel as soon as I figure out where to do that at exactly.

    I have been out of commision since 12-24 in case anyone has wondered what happened to me all of a sudden.
    T-Maxx 3.3 :)

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    Sorry about you Maxx breaking, sounds like you where having fun untill that point. Does the engine still turn over? Could be a bad gear in the transmission... More info please!
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh Teton/Rally T-Maxx Pnde

  3. #3
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    Im all good, I guess when I replaced the Tranny case (the Greyish one) due to the bolt holes being Worn and I Used some White Lithium Grease on teh One way bearing, the Major Bearings and the 1st and 2nd gear actuators this cooler weather just caused it to stick. I just heated it all up with a Hair dryer and it seems to be fine.
    I will get more info and pics if something is bad. just weird how it stoped like that and then would not restart.
    T-Maxx 3.3 :)

  4. #4
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    SO weird I went and Rn it a little to run the Fuel out and It seems just fine, I guess Possibly the Low Battery on the EZ Start and the Cold Must of Created the condition.
    Whats even stranger is I noticed both Driver Right Side Tires were also very loose either I am loosing my Mind when working on this or I need to go over it real well and double check all teh screws, nuts, etc.
    Also one other thing the hanger Wire that holds the Resonator Pipe on Broke off.
    Has anyone ever had that happen? it is not that old of a Wire either I do have a couple extra but that Puzzled me as to why it just snapped off like it did.
    T-Maxx 3.3 :)

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
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    I was wondering if the earth swallowed you up!

    At least the glow plug issue is resolved.

    A broken hanger happens.

    I check the wheel nuts at every tank fill up.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  6. #6
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    Thanks Wolfslash16 I appreciate the quick Reply sorry for the false alarm just with my luck lately I was expecting the worst possible outcome.
    T-Maxx 3.3 :)

  7. #7
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    @wildman4910 Yea the Glow Plug thing really had me Puzzled as I did not think I was anyway running Lean but I must have been.
    The weird thing now is when I first start the Truck is Really Boggy and Spews a Bunch of Fuel out exhaust, SO much so I am no longer going to start it in Garage on my Custom made stand and Table Due to I Covered My `6 Drawer Tool Box and 2 Drawers full of Tools with the Fuel and Oil and it is a Mess LOL.
    But I did find the weirdest thing in Tranny, The Output Gear on the Middle Shaft ( the one with the One Way bearing WHich I assume is connected to First Gear and the Second Gear on the Dodad that Comes out after a Certain Speed to engage second) Broke into 2 Pieces and allowed the Gear to Spin on the Shaft.
    I had no Idea the shaft was Through Hardened as I was going to use a Axle/Wheel Pin but it was to large and I could not drill out Shaft hole so I had to Make a Pin. (it is a Little Loose in the Unit but hopefuly holds up till I can replace the parts)
    Not one single gear Is Damaged except the Inside of the One mentioned de to thePin reaming it while Spinning Inside.
    Speaking of 1st and 2nd Gears I have seen a 41 and 43 Tooth First Listed a few places I think my Gear says 38 running a 41 or 43 would allow me a Lower Bottem end and More off line Power Correct?
    I am already running a 20T CB and 62 Tooth Spur and Was debating on Running a 18 or 16T Spur or replacing the Prior mentioned gearing since I now have some Tranny work ahead.
    One thing that has really got me Torked though is the Brand New Tranny Case I bought and Only have had to remove it once now has 2 of the mounting Holes stripped and I did not even get the Snug whats up with that?
    Any Suggestions to help fix the stripped Tranny mounting holes? I even went so far as to purchase a complete new 3.3 Screw Set and Measured each Screw put them in a Special container that is comparmentalized so I know what is what etc, used the Exploded Diagrams and made double sure i had teh right screws in teh right spots yet I Still have this Issue. It was why I bought a New Tranny case to begin with, and I hate not having everything Tight and Secure.
    T-Maxx 3.3 :)

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    Get yourself some 3mm brass inserts from Tony’s screws and install them in the stripped holes. A 10 pack of the inserts only cost $2.75 and you shouldn’t have a problem with stripped holes afterwards.

    Got pics of the damaged tranny parts?
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  9. #9
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    @Snook Man Thanks for the great Idea on the Holes.
    I Found the strangest thing on the inside of the Tranny the output Gear on the Center shaft for some Strange reason has a Pin that is not threaded in like the Input Shaft or the Very Botom Output Shaft itself and is held in with a U Type Clip and that Broke and when I replaced it the second one spun inside of the plastic gear itself.
    So I was really Tired of messing with it and took a Extra Drive shaft Screw (the allen headed one with threads) and installed it and since I have not had a single Problem.
    WHY in the world would Traxxas use a Substandard Pin Setup like this? It is Obvious on the Input and Output shafts they Use the Threaded Pins/Screws why not on the Middle Shaft output Gear also?????
    Has me Quite Puzzled but was a actual easy Fix thank Goodness.
    Sorry I could not get Pics but I may be able to Snipp some of the .pdf's I have to show you what I mean exactly.

    This above pic is how Traxxas setup the tranny although not my Personal Idea Of Sucess as I broke it twice TWICE

    This is the Other gear I mentioned which has the Screw in Pin which should of been in the Problem Gear also IMHO
    SO I went ahead and put one in and since then have had ZERO (0) Issues and I doubt highly I will break it as there is no slop or movement at all it is Tight as it should be and I feel much more comfortable with the new setup.

    NOTE The actual Pin I used was For the 3.3 Drive Shafts which may be longer then the Stated Length all I know for a fact is it is long enough to just be Flush with the Edge of teh plastic on Both Ends the end that threaded in and the other where the pin itself (no Threads) is located, So it fits perfectly with nothing to hang out and catch on anything at all.
    Last edited by spudler_t; 01-14-2013 at 02:26 AM.
    T-Maxx 3.3 :)

  10. #10
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    Hi On the transmission mounts, used traxxas header screws. The screws are cap screws which worked fine. I think I had to drill out one hole just slightly so the screw would fit deeper. Still running.

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
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    It is kinda silly to have nothing but that little wire C clip holding the pin in, as long as the screw pin you used is flush or below the surface of the gear it should work fine.





    Robert be careful as there is one trany to chassis mount hole on the trany, the right rear that if your run too long a screw into it you will hit the gear inside the case & cause damage.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  12. #12
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    Hi Wildman Thanks for the info, used header cap screws with chassis braces and works great.

  13. #13
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    @Robert f. Hey thats a Good Idea, I think the header screws are a wee bit bigger ( Or next Size in Metric 4 .5 or something like that I have some of those since I bought 2 Sets of Extra 3.3 Screw Kits as I was tired of Having them Strip etc.
    I had to Use some extra Long Screws and Nuts on my Aluminum Bulkheads where the Body/Shock Mounts attach as one side stripped out. But I recieved them free in a Lot of Parts so I am not really out any $$ and they were probably going bad when I recieved them but they seem OK at the moment.
    One day I will Replace all the Iffy Items with new ones but It gets expensive so I will do with what I have to now until I get more $$.
    T-Maxx 3.3 :)

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
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    You can also put a 3mm nut on top of the trany mount flange on 3 of the corners if you use 3 longer screws.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wildman4910 View Post
    You can also put a 3mm nut on top of the trany mount flange on 3 of the corners if you use 3 longer screws.
    This is exactly what I did! It's so tight with just the three screws and lock nuts you could easily get away with just those three. Just be carful when tightening the nuts and bolts down that you don't crush the plastic.

  16. #16
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    Hi Need to make a correction! For the better tranny mount screws, use traxxas #2584 3x12 cooling head capscrews. Tried them and they work great.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maxximum Overdive View Post
    This is exactly what I did! It's so tight with just the three screws and lock nuts you could easily get away with just those three. Just be carful when tightening the nuts and bolts down that you don't crush the plastic.
    Now thats a Great Idea, I had the Aluminum Bulkheads somehow Strip out where the Shock/Body Mounst attach and I used longer screws and Nuts and it worked great I did not Think of trying that with the tranny, It does make it harder to remove but would be much Tighter.
    @wildman4910 yea My Thoughts exactly on the C clip thing, I have found the Screw works Supurb and I peronally now feel much more comfortable with it, did a Test on my Hill ( the one in the Videos) and I was able to pull a wheelie all the way up spewwing moss and Gunk all over and did not even seem to remotely stress that new gear/pin setup where prior I would of probably Spun the Gear or Spewwed the pin.
    Been kinda under the weather but I am back, just about have my new Camera mount designed so soon I will have a driverside Video from inside the Truck Shoudl be EPIC. lol
    T-Maxx 3.3 :)

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