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Thread: VXL going out?

  1. #41
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    Waiting on the rest of pics to come through to my email..
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  2. #42
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    Finally came through:




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  3. #43
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    It looks like you have just the right amount of grease on the gears. The blue line on the top gear with the arrow pointing to it is the pin I am talking about. Make sure the pin is fully seated in its groove.



    The differential is the biggest gear with the 4 screws, the gears inside the differential are the planetary gears. If its been 4 years worth of running on that diff, then it would be a good idea to replace it and rule it out. Your lhs should stock the diff assembly and it will include the new diff, new planetary gears, screws, instructions and a tube of Traxxas grease.

    The middle gear with the 2 bearings inside it is the idler gear.

    Are all your Teflon shims still in place? If they are worn out you'll want to replace them too. There will be one shim on each side of the idler gear and one on each side of the top gear. Your lhs should stock these as well for a couple bucks.

    When you get everything you need and are putting the trans back together and assembling the slipper clutch, tighten the slipper all the way and run it with the slipper all the way tight and see if the truck wheelies, then you can loosen the slipper 1/8 turn.












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  4. #44
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    I looked at the gear that you have marked, I didn't see any pin. I did see a very small hole that runs all the way through though, but that sits beneath the top of the gear, and there was nothing in there but grease, I could see through to the other side.

    As for getting a new diff, I just blew 50 bucks on my STRC upgrades so now I'm outta money until I can get to the bank or my dad gets it for me.

    ALSO, after I put the diff back together, correctly, I was turning the diff just by itself and I thought I heard the deathly clicking.. What causes the clicking? I didn't see any extra teeth from the gears laying around nor did any of the gears have missing teeth. There also wasn't any loose metal shavings inside the whole diff. I did take every single gear out.
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  5. #45
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ithrowstones View Post
    I looked at the gear that you have marked, I didn't see any pin. I did see a very small hole that runs all the way through though, but that sits beneath the top of the gear, and there was nothing in there but grease, I could see through to the other side.

    As for getting a new diff, I just blew 50 bucks on my STRC upgrades so now I'm outta money until I can get to the bank or my dad gets it for me.

    ALSO, after I put the diff back together, correctly, I was turning the diff just by itself and I thought I heard the deathly clicking.. What causes the clicking? I didn't see any extra teeth from the gears laying around nor did any of the gears have missing teeth. There also wasn't any loose metal shavings inside the whole diff. I did take every single gear out.
    Well there's your problem right there. Without that roll pin in the top gear the shaft is simply spinning inside the gear and you're getting barely any power to the wheels at all. You will need to line the hole up with the slot and get a pin that fits in that hole very tightly. A roll pin made of spring steel is best, but lots of guys just cut a piece of an Allen key and force it in there. Be careful not to harm the gear when doing this. The question now is where did that pin go? You won't want that pin to find its way in between two gears and cause carnage, so double check the trans to make sure it's not floating around in the grease somewhere or stuck in a corner of the case.

    As for the diff, I wouldn't worry too much if there's a very faint clicking. Since the diff has been used so much, the gears will be worn down in certain spots. So if you disassemble it completely then assemble it correctly but with a couple of the gears flipped around, it sometimes makes a bit of noise. It could also be due to the diff case being worn and because you were spinning the output shafts in your hand, there is no bearings to keep the output shafts running straight and true. This causes the planetary gear mesh to be off a bit and will click only when you test it while its out of the trans. Once in the trans case with the bearings holding it straight it should be fine. As long as its not a grinding or crunching sound that stops the gears completely, I wouldn't worry about it for now and just replace it when it wears out completely.
    Last edited by BaldyDaniels; 03-04-2013 at 05:30 PM.
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  6. #46
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    Great thread. I'm also have similar issues. I may need to run through this as well.

    Thanks,

  7. #47
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    Baldy: Will I be able to see a slot for a roll pin to sit in on top, or does the pin go in the hole that's beneath the top part and goes all the way through?? I won't worry about the diffs now since you cleared it up for me.

    sduffy: That's what we are here for. One person goes to find an answer for him self and usually ends up helping a whole bunch of people. Both old and new.
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  8. #48
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    ithrow, I dont know if this helps, but, here's an image of the gear - when you use something foreign as your pin, make sure it's not too long so that it extends into the 'teeth' area. The stock pin is hollow. I tried a drill bit which broke, but my allen key piece is still holding strong.


  9. #49
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    that picture is really helpful Oaks! I will take a closer look at the gear tonite.
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  10. #50
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    Ok, so we have a little problem here.. I was talking to my dad about this on-going problem and he wanted to see the whole shaft. I let him look at it and he pointed out that the pin was in there!! You could see that one side of the pin was stick out a little further than the other side. I didn't know that the pin was hollow so when I looked at the hole, I was actually looking though the pin without realizing it.. So now we have eliminated another problem. Now, where is the next area I go to from here.
    Bitter-sweet moment right now..
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  11. #51
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    Still need some help.
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  12. #52
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    ithrow, I know I said the pin was hollow, but you shouldn't know that unless it was broken, lol. It looks solid in it's unbroken form. Did you replace it with something? because it's still broken dude.

    One more thing about comparing yur VXL to your buddies. Are both of your combos screaming about the same pitch, or is yours noticeable quieter/not revving as high?

    One other thing, the gear with the pin on the top shaft almost needs to be pressed on, I'm talking TIGHT. Are you able to move/spin the gear freely on the shaft? Thatd be a sign that it's been slipping for a while.

    Just some ideas, homie

  13. #53
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    I didn't replace the pin.
    You can see that one side of the pin stick out a little farther than the other side.
    I can not twist the gear freely on the shaft.
    I do not remember the pitch frequency of his motor.

    I appreciate the ideas.
    God is good.

  14. #54
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    There's gotta be more than 2 people here who want to help?
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  15. #55
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    If you want to rule out the diff as an issue without having to buy a new diff assembly, then you can test the planetary gears by either:

    A: take the diff out of the trans and get someone to hold the diff tightly in their hand while you try to turn both output drives at the same time. Use a couple hex keys or small screwdrivers through the grub screw holes for a bit of leverage, just don't try too hard.

    B: if the diff is installed in the trans case, tighten the slipper all the way tight, then hold the spur gear while trying to turn both rear wheels at the same time. Not too much force here either.

    When using either method, if the outputs turned without the diff turning or you hear some nasty grinding, then the planetary gears are hooped. Also, if you use method A, you can also check for excessive planetary gear wear by trying to turn both outputs at once one way, then reverse direction back and forth a few times to see how much slop the planetary gears have developed. There should only be a slight amount.

    here's a link to the split washer mod for the diff. This mod makes the diff act like a limited slip differential which will also help get more power to the ground off the line and may also bypass any planetary gear issues there may be until you can replace the diff.

    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...ve-Washer-posi

    there's only so many things that could cause this issue and we are running out of parts to test, so we gotta be getting close to figuring this out! Don't let it beat ya man!







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  16. #56
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    I will try both of those methods and let you know what happens.

    I hear on getting close to the end.. I can wait until I can get my pede back together as it sits half assembled half unassembled.
    This will not beat me!
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  17. #57
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    So, the diffs are officially ruled out!!

    What's next?
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  18. #58
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    Any other ideas??
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  19. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4-wheelin View Post
    As the famous Dave Hester would say, YUUUUUP!!
    I hate Hester he over pays on everything he buys a trailer but barley has anything too haul with it! but brandy on the other hand Man! but yea your motor might be going!

  20. #60
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    That's I'm thinking RC.. Gotta love trouble shooting
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  21. #61
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    Any other ideas?
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  22. #62
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    Any other ideas?
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  23. #63
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    Time to drop your buddies motor in there! Use your gear! Replicate the exacts set up you have with his motor. Your battery, pinion, esc.... just the motor swap! See what you get for results with the same trigger pulls. If further investigation is needed, swap esc! This is all you have left to test so, what do ya wanna do????
    Im near ready to mail ya a motor and close this puppy out lol! She's had a long run buddy, lets see if she lost her guts or not.
    I'm not a hatchet man! I'm a maggot!

  24. #64
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    I hear Dread!! I will get the tranny put back together once and for all then will swap motors with my bro since my friend is in Florida and will take her for a spin!! One of the longest trouble shooting's I've had ever had to do..
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  25. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by thedreadedend View Post
    Time to drop your buddies motor in there! Use your gear! Replicate the exacts set up you have with his motor. Your battery, pinion, esc.... just the motor swap! See what you get for results with the same trigger pulls. If further investigation is needed, swap esc! This is all you have left to test so, what do ya wanna do????
    Im near ready to mail ya a motor and close this puppy out lol! She's had a long run buddy, lets see if she lost her guts or not.
    This is what I suggested from the get go. Don't understand why it hasn't been done yet.

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  26. #66
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    I was. Wondering the same thing..... figured it was the easiest test of um all.
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  27. #67
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    Yes it was mentioned earlier, 4-wheelin, but since I had the truck apart, why not check the tranny just to be on the safe side? Tranny is fine, diffs are fine. So now it's time to swap motors and see what my results happen to be.

    I swapped my motor with my brothers. Both are the VXL. I got everything all hooked up. When I turn the wheels by hand, I get a clicking noise. I know it's not the motor because its not mine. When I turn the tranny by hand where the yokes hook up, there's no clicking but when everything is all hooked up, I get clicking. When I go to turn the spur gear(with pinion on) it will go easy then will feel Ike I'm trying to go over a "bump" then will go again and will do the same thing. I don't need anymore problems right now.. Ugh!
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  28. #68
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    The feeling of going over a bump could be because something is not lined up properly, or because of the magnets in the motor. You get to a point where the magnets are attracted to each other, you get the feeling of resistance because you are pulling the magnets apart. Then as you turn it further, they repel away from each other making it easier to turn.
    If you've ruled out the motor, try the ESC.

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    Last edited by 4-wheelin; 03-31-2013 at 07:49 AM.
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  29. #69
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    I haven't run the "new" motor yet. I was turning the spur gear by hand.
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  30. #70
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    Good news! Finally got everything to run a coupler days ago..I now have more power than I originally did with my motor!
    Does this mean my motor is going bad then?
    God is good.

  31. #71
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    Bad motor, most likely?
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  32. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by ithrowstones View Post
    Bad motor, most likely?
    It could be due to weak rotor magnets if the motor has ever been overheated. It could also be just the bearings that are hooped. open it up and see whats going on in there. Rebuild kits can be bought for the vxl motor which replace the rotor, bearings and spacers. Glad to hear youre up and running again.
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  33. #73
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    I have never overheated the motor.
    How do I open up the motor? I've never done that before, ever..
    Maybe I won't buy the rebuild kit, may just have to get a new, more powerful motor?

    Thanks for chiming in!
    God is good.

  34. #74
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    Remove the plastic end bell cover by giving it a good pull, then remove the 4 screws that you see at the back end of the motor. Use a hot soldering iron and touch the head of the screw for several seconds to heat it up and release the thread lock. Also be sure to use a good quality hex tool that fits the hex nice and snug with no play because these screws will be very tight but aren't made of very high quality steel, so they will strip fairly easily if the hex tool fits loosely, and then it's a real pain to get em out. Once you have all the screws out, just pull the silver end bell off. The rear end bell also holds the rear bearing which can be pushed out of the cover using a screwdriver or whatever you have handy. There may be a spacer washer on the rear of the rotor shaft so be careful not to wreck it or lose it. Now with the pinion removed from the motor shaft, push the motor shaft into the motor then grab the rotor and pull it out. There will be another spacer on this front shaft of the motor, so keep track of it. The front bearing can be removed the same way as the rear bearing. Check the bearings and make sure they spin very freely and ensure they don't have any rough feel when you spin them. If they have any play or slop or if they roll even the slightest bit gritty or rough, they'll need to be replaced. Best to replace them anyways while you have the motor open. Inspect the rotor for cracks or any kind of damage to the silver metal that coats the rotor magnets. If there is cracks or chips or it looks discoloured or has any sign of damage it will need to be replaced. Use electric motor cleaning spray to completely clean the inside of the motor can. Inspect the wiring inside of the can to ensure there is no noticeably burned wiring (if there is burned wiring you'll be able to smell it, it's a pretty distinct smell kinda like cow crap lol) if everything looks good then replace any parts necessary and reassemble the motor in the reverse order of which you took it apart. Inspect all motor leads to ensure there is no splits or tears and check the area where the wires are soldered to the motor, if there's frayed wires, the motor wires will need to be desoldered, cut to expose new wire and then resoldered. As long as the wires are still intact and in good condition, Any rips or tears in the rubber coating of the wires can be repaired by simply slipping a length of shrink tube over top then shrunk down with a heat gun.

    Even if you're planning to upgrade to a bigger or more powerful motor, it would still be a good idea to open this one up and check it out. It may just be the bearings that are bunk and these can be replaced for dirt cheap. Then if the motor is working well again, you could sell it off and use the cash (the vxl motors sell for around 40-50 in good used condition) to offset the price of a bigger and badder 4 pole esc and motor. Heck, I've been seeing the non waterproof Castle Sidewinder sv2 and 3800kv combos selling for $100-110-120 shipped on eBay which is a smokin deal cuz the 3800 motor alone sells for around $90-100 plus shipping.

    If you don't wanna bother with any of this hassle and just wanna ditch the motor the way it is for some quick cash, shoot me a pm and we can chat.


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  35. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by ithrowstones View Post
    Baldy: I opened up the tranny and then got into the diffs for the first time.. everything in there had plenty of grease and NONE of the gears looked worn down or had any missing teeth.

    Never understood how to open that . . . ;(

  36. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by piedigger View Post
    Never understood how to open that . . . ;(
    Believe me its fun. I have practically opened everything of pede, just to see how everything runs.
    It actually reminds me of my first RC (a along time ago...cannot remember what brand)..my buggy lost signal on the beach and ended up in the salty water...opened everything, but nothing could be done as RC of today
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  37. #77
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    Hey guys, I don't mean to hijack the thread, but I had a question about burning out a VXL motor. I have a VXL pede and run 7 cell NiMH batteries. I really don't want to burn out my VXL motor and don't have a temp gun. Is it burning up a VXL motor really something I need to be worried about if I only use NiMH?
    My son has an XL-5 and we pretty much keep his on training mode so I'm not too worried about it, plus the Tritons are cheap. It's the VXL I don't want to have to replace.
    Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated, thanks!

  38. #78
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    Baldy, you are the bomb!! I will give opening up the motor a try. If that doesn't go well then I wil ponder a bit.
    This has sure been an adventure that's for sure, but we are getting closer to the end. Down to the itty gritty stuff now.

    Piedigger, the tranny is opend up by removing the screws found around the outside, on top the gray prt of the rear end. Remove all and it will open right up. Be sure to take of the black gear cover. To open the diffs, open the tranny then open the gear that has 4 screws on it, diffs are in there.

    OSU, you don't have to worry about burning up the VXL on NIMH, providing you have the correct gearing.
    God is good.

  39. #79
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    Huston, we have a problem! I don't have an allen key the right size. I have one that fits, but doesn't fit quite nice and snug.
    Where to go from here?
    Last edited by ithrowstones; 04-14-2013 at 10:16 AM. Reason: I would like to buy a vowel...
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  40. #80
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    There are two kinds of wrenches, standard and metric...you're using the wrong one.

    I would have started with checking the motor. I have ruined a couple brushless motors over the years from *slightly* overheating them. Once that happens the magnets slowly get worse and you lose alot of punch. I've also ran brushless motors for a few years without overheating them and they eventually go bad, they don't last forever. I'm guessing your motor is bad.

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