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Thread: VXL going out?

  1. #1
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    VXL going out?

    Noticed something different today..

    I was over at a friend of mine and we were adjusting his slipper before going to play in the snow, running my 2S and when he hits the throttle his stampede (2x4) will do a wheelie, all the way to the wheelie bar on carpet. When I put my 2S in my stampede (2x4) and hit the throttle, my wheels will barley come off the ground, slipper is set correctly tried it on carpet many time did the same thing, even does the same thing when slipper is set all the way in.
    His VXL motor is 2 years and mine is roughly 3 years old.

    Is my VXL motor going out?
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  2. #2
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    How does it accelerate when youre not trying to pull a wheelie? How about if you put your foot in front of it and give throttle; does it have power? Have you checked the slipper clutch pads?
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    the slipper clutch has a pin on the shaft that holds the idler gear on inside the transmisson. i had tht break abunch of times and it just feels like it lost power. It wouldnt wheelie. youmight want to check it. your gonna have to pull the tranny apart. i think its 3 dollors for the shaft with the spring pin

  4. #4
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    It accelerates just normal. It has power when I put my foot on the front end. I have had the truck for 4 years, will be 5 this summer and I just replaced the clutch pads back in 2012 around September--ish
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by trevdclear View Post
    the slipper clutch has a pin on the shaft that holds the idler gear on inside the transmisson. i had tht break abunch of times and it just feels like it lost power. It wouldnt wheelie. youmight want to check it. your gonna have to pull the tranny apart. i think its 3 dollors for the shaft with the spring pin
    I re-greased the tranny back in 2012 and I haven't lost the pin that holds the idler gear.

    Never been over-heated either.
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  6. #6
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    One thing you haven't mentioned is your gearing. If it's geared too high (larger pinion), you will have less punch at take off making it harder to wheelie. Sounds like everything else is OK if you have power and torque, but just can't wheelie.
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  7. #7
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    I'm geared at 19/86. Perfect gearing for some speed and wheelie's..
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  8. #8
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    Maybe you can get with your friend and see if he can help you diagnose the issue by swapping your ESC and Motor with his, one at a time.
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  9. #9
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    Would his stampede have to be geared the same as mine if we swapped motor and ESC's?
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  10. #10
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    Not really, as long as they're close. just keep the pinion right on his motor. The motor is the easiest thing to swap out anyway, so try that first. Don't swap both at the same time, because you wont know which one solved your problem. Swap the motor first and keep your ESC in place. Then if the problem still exists, put your motor back, and swap the ESC.
    Last edited by 4-wheelin; 01-02-2013 at 07:10 PM.
    Who needs nitro, when you got LiPo?

  11. #11
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    Ok, so swap the motor with the 19 tooth pinion and see how that works.
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  12. #12
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    As the famous Dave Hester would say, YUUUUUP!!
    Who needs nitro, when you got LiPo?

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    If it is going out, how long before it will actually be bad and how will I know it's out?
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  14. #14
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    It's hard to tell really. It could last quite a while that way. If its an electronics problem at all. You just have to narrow it down to one thing.
    Who needs nitro, when you got LiPo?

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    I brake the spring pin if i slam on the brakes hard sometimes. if you swap the motor and every thing and it still is like that then checked the spring pin. But i might be your motor. check that first

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    my rustler is the same.I used to be able to pop wheelies and ride them 30 feet across the parking lot.cant even pop a wheelie at all now.still have not figured out why.I tried a 19 pinion from a 25. made no differance.I did overheat mine once due to being new at this and not knowing,but it still worked fine for a long time after before the issue startted.I have not figured it out yet.
    anyone have an extra truck,I broke mine again

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    This might be a silly comment or question at best; Did you check the pressure plate? Is it still smooth or does it have groves on it?
    You mentioned that you replaced the slipper clutch pads recently...did they come lose? Are they making full contact to the pressure plate? Are they wearing correctly? Is the spring wore-out?(aka less tension) Bearings bad?

    Those are the things that I would look at and or replace.
    Just my old thinking....

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    Bit-Older and need to 'learn' more.

  18. #18
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    First off, I would try simply swapping batteries with your buddy and see how that goes. It could just be your battery, loose connections, broken or frayed wires (check where the motor wires attach to the motor). One of my vxl motors lost some of its power due to the wires fraying and breaking away from the solder right at the motor. I installed brand new motor leads and bullet connectors and it runs like new again, its nearly 2 years old, never been rebuilt, and has been severely abused with temps reaching upwards of 180-190F on several occasions. The battery pack and wiring is the very first place to start because if it has lost its power than you will be wasting your time trying to find something wrong with the truck. Good luck!







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  19. #19
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    The reason I actually replaced the pads was;
    1) it's been 3 years.
    2) Somehow the pressure plate had become bent, a lump on the outer edge in one part, knew it couldn't be good so it got replaced.
    Spring is still good, bearings still look very nice.

    The motor wires aren't coming out of the motor connection and the wires going into the ESC are all good. The battery wires will have to take a massive beating to get cut. I have the wires shrink wrapped, electrical taped and then duct tape.. Heavy duty I know, no tear there.
    The battery is a SPC 2S 5000MAH hardcase. The wires are good, the cells are balanced and I got the battery around September-ish.. I think..
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  20. #20
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    Still worth it to try his battery, then you can rule that out. Double check the slipper if you havent checked it recently. Then with the pinion pulled away rrom the spur, check to make sure you can spin the motor freely by hand, also hold one wheel and spin the other by hand to ensure everything spins freely woth no binding. You'll have to also check the pins in the output drives to make sure they are okay, as well as wheel checking for stripped hexes or broken/missing drive pins. If all these are in good order then the next thing could be the differential planetary gears wearing out or the input shaft pin that holds the top gear on could be sheared off. If the motor has been overheated previously, then the magnets may be demagnetized which will result in a loss of power. Also recalibrate the tx to the esc to make sure you are getting full throttle.
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  21. #21
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    Make sure your dif output shafts aren't spinning inside the output yokes. I don't like the grub screw into nylon design on both sides which was troublesome for me. I did away with that and put on the HD VXL driveshafts from my Stampede 4X4 (I upgraded that truck to MIPs front and rear). These have a screw pin that goes through the hole in the dif output shaft so they can't slip inside the yoke.
    Much better design and stronger components.

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. kdvanb's Avatar
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    Check your diff,and axles
    Hope this helps
    Slash 2wd, Slash 4x4, 30th digger, Rustler VXL

  23. #23
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    My yokes are the steel ones and the grub screws are still in there nicely. Still running stock XL-5 drive shafts...my pede was XL-5 now it's VXL..
    I can hold one wheel and spin the other wheel with no problem, same for both sides.
    Hexes aren't stripped, still stock.
    Never been overheated, as stated earlier.. lol.
    I had to recalibrate the tx and esc because when I turned the controller knob to the right to go right it would go left, vise vera. Re calibrated it and now it goes right when I turn the knob to the right.

    I really hope it's not in the tranny.. I just re-greased it back when I did my tear down and winter cleaning, Cleaning and everything was in tip-top shape.. and that was in November.
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  24. #24
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    2 weeks ago the button got stuck on my 3s esc had a slightly used esc in my tool box and plugged it in plugged in a half way ran 2s 5,000 lipo and the power was tremendous and the original was only 2 years old

  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ithrowstones View Post
    My yokes are the steel ones and the grub screws are still in there nicely. Still running stock XL-5 drive shafts...my pede was XL-5 now it's VXL..
    I can hold one wheel and spin the other wheel with no problem, same for both sides.
    Hexes aren't stripped, still stock.
    Never been overheated, as stated earlier.. lol.
    I had to recalibrate the tx and esc because when I turned the controller knob to the right to go right it would go left, vise vera. Re calibrated it and now it goes right when I turn the knob to the right.

    I really hope it's not in the tranny.. I just re-greased it back when I did my tear down and winter cleaning, Cleaning and everything was in tip-top shape.. and that was in November.
    If everything external is good then you really have no options left other than to open up the transmission. Im betting that its gonna be the input shaft pin that holds the top gear in place. When the planetary gears in the diff wear out, it acts like it would if the slipper clutch was really loose and will have zero torque. The top gear fits really tight on the input shaft, so if the pin does shear, it will still grab and make the truck move, but wont have much punch. Its in your best interest to check to see if the pin is sheared off or fell out because if it has and you keep running the truck this way, its only a matter of time before the pin (or a piece of it) works its way in between your trans gears and causes far more damage. If you find that the pin is broken, make sure to completely clean out all the old grease from the inside of the trans and ensure you have removed all the broken pieces to prevent any gear damage. I know it sucks to have to open up the trans, we've all been there. Thats why i always have an extra fully built transmission on hand, this way i can just swap it out and go bash, then worry about rebuilding the other one later.







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  26. #26
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    That's just the thing though, I only have one trans on hand and that's the one I use, lol..
    So if everything in the trans looks good and nothing is missing or sheared, then where is the next place I look?
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  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ithrowstones View Post
    That's just the thing though, I only have one trans on hand and that's the one I use, lol..
    So if everything in the trans looks good and nothing is missing or sheared, then where is the next place I look?
    After you've ruled out any issues with the truck and transmission, then all thats left is the brushless system or the battery. Since you have a buddy with the same system, you could try his system in your truck and see how that goes. Im just trying to save you the hassle of sending it in for warranty if you don't have to, cuz it could take a while to get it back. Downtime blows! Lol







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  28. #28
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    I wouldn't mind the down time, really cold and snowy.. Pede doesn't do to well in snow and my fingers hate the cold..lol

    I'm not sure when I will be able to crack open the tranny as I have school. Might be able to do it this weekend, hopefully sooner.
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  29. #29
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    Sorry for not getting on. Been havin some internet problems with the router and all..

    Haven't had time to work on the pede and crack open the tranny. Maybe after homework is done I'll work on it.
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  30. #30
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    So much for procrastination.. Last post was 1-15.. I finally opened the tranny last nite, 3-1.
    I found no missing teeth on any of them gears, everything was greased real good and it was clean. I washed the case out with hot water and put it back together then put a crap ton of grease in it. Put it back together and it's good as new.. So as for the loss of power, I don't think the tranny has anything to do with it..
    Where do I go from here now?
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  31. #31
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    Esc isnt in training mode for any reason is it?


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    Nope. It's in Lipo mode.
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    Quote Originally Posted by theant View Post
    Esc isnt in training mode for any reason is it?


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    I was going to ask the same thing ant. Make sure you arent in training mode. Turn your esc on and hold the button till the light blinks once thats full power mode, 2 blinks race mode full throttle full brakes no reverse 3 blinks training mode 50% throttle full brakes 50% reverse. the lipo mode is just for the type of battery, Im sure you know that though and im not trying to insult your intelligence, but this one has my interest and Id really like to see what is the matter with it.

    Tim

  34. #34
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    I know it's not in "training mode" because I have never used that mode and it will wheelie with a 3S.. I don't think it will wheelie with a 3S in "training mode"
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  35. #35
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    Well its sounds as though you eliminated the esc as the issue. So only place to look is the motor itself. Right?


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    Theoretically yes, ant..
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  37. #37
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    Any other suggestions?
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  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by ithrowstones View Post
    Any other suggestions?

    How much grease did you put in the trans? A coating of the gears with light grease is all that should be used. Too much grease or grease that is too thick will cause extra resistance making the motor work harder. When you had the trans open, was the top gear roll pin properly seated in its place in the slot of the gear? A while back Diggerpede had an issue with his trans and it ended up being that the pin was actually slipping out of its groove which allowed the input shaft to spin without turning the gear.

    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...to-be-repacked!

    I still have my suspicions about it being your differentials' planetary gears. I've had a few sets of planetary gears wear out and cause this same loss of power. When I took the diff apart the gears looked perfect, yet when I ran the truck it only had about 50% of the power it used to and barely any torque of the line. You may want to replace the diff to rule it out. Part # 2388x $12.13. How about the grease in the diff, did you repack the diff with some real thick grease?

    Are your tires still glued to the wheels? If the glue has let go, the wheels may be spinning inside the tire upon hard throttle inputs causing a loss of power.

    This is where having a spare complete and fully assembled $20-25 trans assembly from an eBay chop-shop comes in handy. Just swap the entire trans and bash on.

    This issue is kinda buggin me, too bad we weren't neighbors, I'd like to figure it out!
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  39. #39
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    I didn't pack the grease to wear you can't see the gears. I used some Team Associated black grease(it's what I had on hand) and I used around a quarter of the small tube.
    If I think your talking about the pin that goes on the same on of the spur gear area(slipper shaft), then yes the pin was in the slot of the gear.

    I have never opened up the big gear with 4 screws in it(idler I think it's called) Since I've had my pede, this summer makes it 4 years I believe so the diffs might need either replacing(as you suspect) or re-greased.
    I will do that after I post this and I will get you some pics
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  40. #40
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    Baldy: I opened up the tranny and then got into the diffs for the first time.. everything in there had plenty of grease and NONE of the gears looked worn down or had any missing teeth.
    I took some pics but it doesn't give off enough details of how much grease there is or the quality of the diffs..but here they are anyways..

    View of the tranny:


    Half of the diff area:
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