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  1. #1
    RC Competitor
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    I'm Baaaaack!! Project Laniatus Fortitudo - E-Maxx Edition

    How's it going guys!! I'm back to traxxas after stints with HPI, Ofna, AE, and a few others, lol. I even went back to nitro for awhile!! But I am back, and looking to build a bad***** basher E-maxx!!

    What I have: A New Brushless E-Maxx, Castle Powered
    What I Want: The Ultimate Basher

    Ok, so this is what I know I want to use:

    FLM Chassis
    FLM Bulkhead Braces
    FLM Hybrid Bulks w/ Hyper 7 diffs
    LST2 Axles
    UE Supershocks or Traxxas Bigbores (Undecided)
    Tekno Axle Carriers
    RC Monster Cups
    RPM Arms all the way around

    What I still need advice on: the rest in short, lol. Looking for skids, and anything else that needs replacing to make this thing bulletproof. Any ideas?

    For the batteries, how have you guys been mounting them to the FLM chassis'?

    Also I have done the Tekno carriers before on my ERBE project, Project Stygian in the ERBE forum here, but I had issues with the bearings going out way early and I got good ceramics. I think something was off in the fitment so what have you guys done with a setup like this?

    What pinion do I need to pick up for the ofna diffs? The hyper 7 pinion?

    This is the chassis I am going to use: http://www.fastlanemachine.net/prodd...lm10900&cat=15

    Will the cups be a direct fit on the pinion or are they 6mm and I will need to get 8mm cups for the ofna pinions? Do the RC Monster Cups line up with the FLM driveshafts properly because I had to get a custom driveshaft for my erbe when I built it.

    For the LST2 axles, will they fit with the hybrid bulks, ofna diffs, rpm arms, and tekno carriers without having to space out the carriers too much?

    I looked at a few build threads, but none really stated technically what they used that I could see.

    Any help would be much appreciated and I will be starting the build as soon as some funds come in, lol. This is going to be a much slower build than my erbe was lol.

    I was also curious to see if anybody has found an advantage to using a 1717 over the 2200 it comes with?

  2. #2
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    Been thinking about it, and even though it will be used for bashing I think the LCG FLM chassis may be the better option. It looks like it would protect the drivetrain and batteries better, and make it handle better as well. I could just adjust the shock position and use heavier springs to let it ride a but higher.

  3. #3
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    I just bought the FLM Chassis but the regualar one, i've heard that people say the batteries are exposed and your losing ground clearance, the best part of the Emaxx is ground clearace and suspension travel.

    I have the traxxas CVD's they are plenty of strong, the key is to not land jumps with the throttle on or wheels stoped, I found that with 15% drag brake and using 5s instead of 6s my durablilty is a lot better. I've hit huge gaps in the pits and have overshot the landing a few times but my truck just keeps going. I havn't blown a traxxas diff in about 8 months now, I use to do it on a regular bassis. One of my truck has diff spools and they are still going strong!

  4. #4
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    Giv'r


  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maxx_Adam View Post
    I just bought the FLM Chassis but the regualar one, i've heard that people say the batteries are exposed and your losing ground clearance, the best part of the Emaxx is ground clearace and suspension travel.

    I have the traxxas CVD's they are plenty of strong, the key is to not land jumps with the throttle on or wheels stoped, I found that with 15% drag brake and using 5s instead of 6s my durablilty is a lot better. I've hit huge gaps in the pits and have overshot the landing a few times but my truck just keeps going. I havn't blown a traxxas diff in about 8 months now, I use to do it on a regular bassis. One of my truck has diff spools and they are still going strong!
    Interesting, I would think that the LCG would be a bit better at protecting the batteries since the tray is not vented. I will be going with hybrid bulks and 1/8 scale drivetrain for sure tho. I dont want to be having to dial it down because I didnt build it sturdy enough the first time around. Sweet ride btw!!

  6. #6
    RC Racer
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    I have built and watched a few similar builds. My first recommendation is to avoid the LCG chassis if you are going to bash it at all. There is a weak point in the chassis where the trans mounts and I have seen them crack there more then once. This is a picture of one and this guy wasn't bashing, he was on a very mild track as far as jumps are concerned.


    This is what FLM should have done for a LCG chassis IMO. The top plate is the same thickness as the normal FLM chassis. Their LCG chassis is very thin IMO.


    Personally on my build I used the chassis you first mentioned and have really liked it. I also went with GA bulks, ultralite casses and the spyder 6 diffs (ofna's). To me the FLM hybrids just don't have the same quality as the GA bulks or the UE diff casses. I have just got done building 2 truck with the hybrids and Im just not impressed with them myself. For driveshafts I went with the Traxxas CVD's and have been impressed. They have handled 5s very well with no issues. I also went with the Tekno carriers and have been very impressed with no issues. There is a thread on rctech that shows the use of the lst axles on a similar build I will try to get you that link. As for shocks I went with the powerstrokes, not the best for real hard bashing, but by far the best performing under normal driving conditions and smaller jumps. I have used the big bores and they worked well, but nothing like the powerstrokes. I now have UE supershocks (Ofna's) and will be testing those out soon. For skids I started out with FLM aluminum, but they are like butter. I now run Hardcore Racing titanium with the RPM skid pads.

    A few pics of my truck



  7. #7
    RC Champion
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    yep, I have a cracked lcg chassis atm. I would go with the supershocks since they are still available. I picked up the motherload of shock parts too since I have 16 supershocks on two trucks.

    here's my build if you are interested: http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...3908-FLM-Build
    As for skids, I like the tbone basher bumpers. I have steel rc solutions skids with tbone skid protectors/bumpers.
    Pro-2 SCB 2xSuperMaxx Revo-E G-Slayer

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blazerss1 View Post
    I have built and watched a few similar builds. My first recommendation is to avoid the LCG chassis if you are going to bash it at all. There is a weak point in the chassis where the trans mounts and I have seen them crack there more then once. This is a picture of one and this guy wasn't bashing, he was on a very mild track as far as jumps are concerned.


    This is what FLM should have done for a LCG chassis IMO. The top plate is the same thickness as the normal FLM chassis. Their LCG chassis is very thin IMO.


    Personally on my build I used the chassis you first mentioned and have really liked it. I also went with GA bulks, ultralite casses and the spyder 6 diffs (ofna's). To me the FLM hybrids just don't have the same quality as the GA bulks or the UE diff casses. I have just got done building 2 truck with the hybrids and Im just not impressed with them myself. For driveshafts I went with the Traxxas CVD's and have been impressed. They have handled 5s very well with no issues. I also went with the Tekno carriers and have been very impressed with no issues. There is a thread on rctech that shows the use of the lst axles on a similar build I will try to get you that link. As for shocks I went with the powerstrokes, not the best for real hard bashing, but by far the best performing under normal driving conditions and smaller jumps. I have used the big bores and they worked well, but nothing like the powerstrokes. I now have UE supershocks (Ofna's) and will be testing those out soon. For skids I started out with FLM aluminum, but they are like butter. I now run Hardcore Racing titanium with the RPM skid pads.

    A few pics of my truck


    [QUOTE=Blazerss1;5371092]I have built and watched a few similar builds. My first recommendation is to avoid the LCG chassis if you are going to bash it at all. There is a weak point in the chassis where the trans mounts and I have seen them crack there more then once. This is a picture of one and this guy wasn't bashing, he was on a very mild track as far as jumps are concerned.


    U have links to the bulks, diffs, and cases? Thanks for the tip and the pics. Dodged a bullet there and will be going with the regular style chassis!!

  9. #9
    RC Racer
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    Ok, the diffs are sold by UE in a kit form. http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/...HQQnt5hB&open=

    Here are the bulks. I just run the 6061's myself and they have been plenty strong for me. http://www.greatassemblyrc.com/6061_T_6_Bulkheads.cfm

  10. #10
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    I saw your build with the flm bulks and it looked like the problems you were having was from the diffs you used. Did u have many issues with the bulks themselves?

    Quote Originally Posted by Blazerss1 View Post
    Ok, the diffs are sold by UE in a kit form. http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/...HQQnt5hB&open=

    Here are the bulks. I just run the 6061's myself and they have been plenty strong for me. http://www.greatassemblyrc.com/6061_T_6_Bulkheads.cfm

  11. #11
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    The only issue I have with the bulks themselves was the finish on them really. I had to take a file and file the burrs off of the bottom of them so that my skid plates would fit flat against them. Also, there is no lip where the 2 halves come together like the UE diff casses, which I don't really like. This Tuesday will be 2 weeks since I contacted FLM about my issue with that shaft and I still haven't received a replacement like they promised. Those were Christmas gifts, so if I wasn't able to make the shaft myself I would still be sitting here with no truck to play with. Being in the machine shop myself I might expect the finish to be better than most people since it's what I do for living, but having burrs hanging off of parts is ridiculous IMO. The VBS I have from UE certainly didn't have any burrs still on them, of course I could have bought a lot of hybrids for what what I paid for the VBS, so maybe you just get what you pay for.

    I guess all in all the part they produced wasn't really an issue as far as function. It is possible that I'm just too Picky.

  12. #12
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    Here is a build similar to yours where he used the LST axles and Tekno carriers. He explains what he did to make it all work. http://www.rctech.net/forum/monster-...-thread-4.html

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Very nice indeed mate...!!
    Rock n Rolla !

  14. #14
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    As for your battery concerns, what I did was put a piece of black Plastruct plastic under the vented part of the chassis. I have a gorilla strap running lenghthwise to secure the battery and two Velcro straps going across each pack. My batteries have never moved. Looks like a great build!
    Slash BL-Pede-E 4Tec-FLM EMAXX-Wraith-AX-10-SCX-10

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