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  1. #1
    RC Racer
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    trx 3.3 rebuild kits?

    since the engine on my tmaxx blew up I was wondering if there is anywhere I might be able to purchase a new block and piston. or do I have to buy a whole new engine?

  2. #2
    RC Competitor
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    Buying a new one might be cheaper and you would have a completely new engine.

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
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    By the time you buy all that you might as well get a new engine, ebay has them for right around $100.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. humayrayakongkinaon's Avatar
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    its the piston/sleeve that cost the most, ranging from $50 to $80. the block around $10 to $15 not to mention shipping cost, so yeah buying a new engine is the way to go.
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  5. #5
    RC Champion
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    Quote Originally Posted by humayrayakongkinaon View Post
    its the piston/sleeve that cost the most, ranging from $50 to $80. the block around $10 to $15 not to mention shipping cost, so yeah buying a new engine is the way to go.
    The connecting rod and crank are up there as well.
    Not sure why it costs a lot more to rebuild a complete motor than it is to buy a brand new one. Makes no sense.
    We priced the rebuild on our Picco .26 motors and it was over $270 for sleeve, piston, crank, rod, and bearings.
    Brand new motor with carb is $200.
    ERBE, ERBE, Summit, Slash 4X4, Bandit,

  6. #6
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    cheers for that guys. it's a little odd they would charge so much for spare parts making it more expensive to rebuild then to actually go out and buy a new engine... will just buy one. can get a brand new 3.3 off the shelf at my hobby store for $130 aus atm

  7. #7
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zepher View Post
    The connecting rod and crank are up there as well.
    Not sure why it costs a lot more to rebuild a complete motor than it is to buy a brand new one. Makes no sense.
    We priced the rebuild on our Picco .26 motors and it was over $270 for sleeve, piston, crank, rod, and bearings.
    Brand new motor with carb is $200.
    What isn't? Have you replaced auto parts or body panels? Why do many vehicles, ATV's, snowmobiles and such considered total losses? When I did insurance claims for them, the chassis on many of them cost $1500-2000 retail alone, add in other parts and before labor was added in it was an expensive repair. Pretty much across the board the parts cost more than the whole and that is why there are a lot of chop-shops on eBay.

    To the OP: it's your choice what you want to do. Cost wise it is cheaper to get a whole new engine off eBay and throw it in. Then you could sell off the old carb, block and head to make a little cash back. Or keep them for spare parts and then rebuild that engine so that you know the ins and outs of it.
    The Super Derecho

  8. #8
    RC Racer
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    I'll just buy a new engine and keep the spares from the old. it had a brand new carby on it lol I'll post the pictures of the destroyed engine up here later today. my phone won't let me upload the pictures to imageshack and upload them here. you guys might get a giggle lol

  9. #9
    RC Racer
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  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    First I will address your pics..

    1. from the coloration of the piston, does not look like you put much fuel through it.... Probably less than a gallon... Not too far from break in...

    2. The top of the piston and the cooling head are showing signs of detonation, the gouges (like a sharp ice pick punched in them) are from detonation meaning you were too lean (hold on to that thought).

    3. The underneath of your piston, see all the dark brown/black? That's from the oil blend in the fuel burning and carbonizing, this happenes at temps over 300 degrees... Another sign the engine was experiencing high temps..

    SO what happened? At one point or for some time that engine ran HOT. Hot enough to cause the piston skirt to become brittle as it has the least amount of metal material around it... In time it failed and broke into bits. Those bits flew around at anywhere between 10,000 rpms to 36,000 rpms, jammed up and then created enough friction between the piston and sleeve to cause the conrod to split and then punch through the bottom end.. Often it punches right through the piston if the wrist pin journal breaks...

    OK you had smoke trails but high temps maybe? Common if you tuned only the HSN and not the LSN using the pinch test. These 2 needles work with each other, if one is off so will the other. A lean LSN will cause the operator to increase the richness of the HSN to obtain smoke trails, but you will have high temps and poor performance... SO completely tuning your carb is VERY important... Here's a write up for that... And definitely buy a hand held temp guage, nothing fancy a $25.00 Flashpoint is all you need.... It's just to get you into the ballpark, the rest is based on smoke trails and performance, AFTER you get the LSN dialed in.... http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...ul-Tuning-tips.


    AND ALWAYS TUNE with 1/2 a tank...

    OH, and many who have not had a nitro before cut their teeth on tuning with their first engine...
    Rule of thumb,
    if it's just a conrod and sleeve you can buy the combo off ebay for $40.00
    If you need a conrod as well you can get all 3 off ebay for $60.00.

    If you need to do more than that, piston skirt busts I highly recommend replacing the engine bearings if you are into modding this is the time to plop in some ceramics for $30.00 at Avid.. But this is where I draw the line...

    So basically it's financially worth while if the case is in tact, casue you could do a full rebuild conrod bearings for around $100.00 with the shipping AND have upgraded bearings or even polish and port the crank and sleeve if you feel froggy...

    But also,,, you can get a new, pulled engine from a chop shop at Ebay for $105.00, when you get the engine pull the glow plug and shine light down there and have a peek, it should be aluminum/silver color if it is never fired...... I do this before providing feedback... Also get a flywheel on it and make sure there's good tight pinch....

    THose are the options I use anyways...
    Last edited by Nitronaught; 12-29-2012 at 09:17 AM.
    Robin Williams
    He will be greatly missed...

  11. #11
    RC Racer
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    it's off a tmaxx 3.3 which I bought off a mate (he is a boily I'm a fitter) and it had only done its break in period. I don't know how he ran it. he sold it to me not running and I found it to be the carby and th clutch. I replaced th clutch. bought a new carby as the spring was u/s. set the carby to factory if anything had it set richer as I didn't know how hard he ran it in. and went to start it it didn't start. pulled th glow plug and it was as in th picture. stripped and cleaned th engine (didn't pull the sleeve, piston/Conrad or crank shaft.) put it back together with a new plug it started drove around then shattered the clutch and locked up n died. I pulled the engine to find it as is. the little end of the piston was brown both sides, th skirt shattered and th bottom of the Conrad had torn a hole in the bottom of the block. the Conrad is fine apart from a little gravel rash where it attacked the block. the piston and head on the other hand not so much

  12. #12
    RC Racer
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    Last edited by riley n; 12-30-2012 at 10:35 AM.

  13. #13
    RC Racer
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    cheers guys much appreciated.

  14. #14
    RC Racer
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    your welcome from riley n

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