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  1. #1
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    Starting Problems

    I have the old Nitro 4Tec model with the TRX Pro.15 Engine with EZ-Start from the factory. The car ran last year, but quit starting. I bought the EZ-Start 2 Remote and that fixed the problem. I went to run it again last month and the Glow plug light didnt come on like it should. I had a new glow plug in the car, so I went to the hobby shop and he told me to replace the wiring harness, that didnt solve it. So i dug up the original EZ-Start remote. Now i can hear cumbustion in the chamber, and the red light is on, but the car wont fully start. Do I need another EZ-Start 2 controller, or is there an even bigger problem?

  2. #2
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    Start by taking the engbine apart and cleaning it.

    The carb my be gummed up from sitting so long. I would go ahead and change the glow plug again. Then make sure the needle settings are good. Then work your way from there

  3. #3
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    in the past i have had problems with my glow plug warmer on my 4 tec also. take your glow plug out, connect it to the blue glow wire then touch it to the head of the engine to ground it. next use your ez start to turn over the motor, if you dont see the coil in the glow plug then you have a problem. for my 4 tec i use a glow warmer because the ez start warmer does not warm it enough. with the ez start glow warmer it would take 1 minute to start it, now with the glow warmer it starts instantly

  4. #4
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    Instantly you say? Actually a friend of mine recommended a Plug warmer. Ill have to try one out. as for the starting with the stock parts, i fight it for about 5-7 mins when either the EZ Start battery runs dry, or the starter is too hot to touch. and i just now took the Carb and Head off the motor and cleaned them both. i also cleaned the dirt i found on the Piston and added a small drop of after-run oil to make sure it has enough oil on it. Ill know later if it starts up. Thanks guys

  5. #5
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    Make sure all of the o-rings are lubed. When you put a little oil on them it helps seal them up.

  6. #6
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    I have another question. witch is cheaper: Buying new electric motor for the EZ Starter, or upgrading to pullstart? my EZ Start motor burned up. and i know exactly why. everything was running WAYYY to hot.

  7. #7
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    pull start is 15$ and i think a ez start motor is around 30$ but imo i wouldent go to the pull start if it takes you maore than 5 sec to start. you could convert to this. also you can use a rotostart backplate for this

    http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=405984

  8. #8
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    ok, i took the EZ Start box off the motor, carefully pryed the oneway bushing out of the gear, took a socket that matched the size of the nut around the bushing, and put it on a drill. Re-installed the motor and primed the carb to start. i know i have enough RPM and a fool-proof starting system, but theres still the issue of having the stock exhaust and warming the Glowplug. From looking at the post in the URL in the last post, i do need a tailpipe. and i have no real intention of getting a new one. of Course, the 1998 Nitro 4tec/Pro exhaust starts at the back and dumps at the LF tire. If i had a long enough Pressure hose and short enough tail pipe, id probly be in pretty good shape. as for the Glowplug warming, i hear on-board glowplug warmers are fairly reliable. Thanks for the help guys, it alsmost started today, a longshot from last weekend where it barely tried.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morgfarm1
    Instantly you say? Actually a friend of mine recommended a Plug warmer. Ill have to try one out. as for the starting with the stock parts, i fight it for about 5-7 mins when either the EZ Start battery runs dry, or the starter is too hot to touch. and i just now took the Carb and Head off the motor and cleaned them both. i also cleaned the dirt i found on the Piston and added a small drop of after-run oil to make sure it has enough oil on it. Ill know later if it starts up. Thanks guys
    when i say instantly i mean within a sec or 2 with a good glow plug, traxxas 33 percent fuel, a good tune and with fuel in the fuel line to the carb. i try not to run my car out of fuel though but we all know how that goes. it also helps if you leave the warmer for 10 sec before turning over. yeah i have gone through alot of batterys for the ez start and tons of engine flooding problems and a glow warmer is the way to go. might i add they are less than 20$

  10. #10
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    here is a way to test the ez start warmer vs a glow warmer. take your glow plug out, connect it to the blue glow wire then touch it to the head of the engine to ground it. next use your ez start to turn over the motor. now put a glow plug in the glow warmer and compare them. sence you dont have a glow warmer you could barrow a friends or if you want me to post some pics i could if it would help. it could have been that i may have had a fault in my stock warming system or something. when my revo and 4 tec were new i had no problems with the stock system.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morgfarm1
    ok, i took the EZ Start box off the motor, carefully pryed the oneway bushing out of the gear, took a socket that matched the size of the nut around the bushing, and put it on a drill. Re-installed the motor and primed the carb to start. i know i have enough RPM and a fool-proof starting system, but theres still the issue of having the stock exhaust and warming the Glowplug. From looking at the post in the URL in the last post, i do need a tailpipe. and i have no real intention of getting a new one. of Course, the 1998 Nitro 4tec/Pro exhaust starts at the back and dumps at the LF tire. If i had a long enough Pressure hose and short enough tail pipe, id probly be in pretty good shape. as for the Glowplug warming, i hear on-board glowplug warmers are fairly reliable. Thanks for the help guys, it alsmost started today, a longshot from last weekend where it barely tried.
    you can modify your header so you can start it and you dont need a new pipe. just read my exhaust mod in that thread. i hope i could help.

  12. #12
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  13. #13
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    i could do that, but i have the Limited Edition model, i want to keep as much of it stock as possible. Not only will it be mostly original, the car is lucky to get 3 hours runtime within a year. Seems like every time i run it, somthing gives up. For now, until i can really afford to modify it, i took the ziptie off the rubber of the stock exhaust so i can detach and re-connect it for starting. other wise id need to pull the left rear tire. But heres basically what im working with:


    oh, by the way, its still on its stock V-Rage tires. does that give you an idea how how little it runs. theres not much tread left, but its still got enough to run. not bad for a 10 year old model, eh?

  14. #14
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    wow thats amaizing. i see now

  15. #15
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    I know this thread is an antique, but I did want to say that I did get the thing running like a top last winter. I upgraded to Pull start, picked up a glowplug warmer, and threw a new body and racing slicks on it. Ran great up until I ran it no-body to exhaust 3 minutes of gas, at which point I smacked a curb at 25mph and broke a tierod end.
    Then I rolled it over in Eugene, and tore the antenna holder off the chassis and blew out both left shocks.

    I just placed 3 orders for a total of $300 for a new radio system, another set of tires (rain and dry) and 2 more bodies. I'll upload photos of the modified version on my profile here next time I think about it.

    Put simply: Resolved.
    Last edited by Morgfarm1; 12-31-2012 at 09:47 AM. Reason: Resolved

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