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  1. #121
    RC Competitor
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    Wow nice how long would it be from end to end? I can possibly add this to my truck also depending on the length of the arms. Looks great!! Looking forward for the beta

  2. #122
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    also wondering, wouldnt it be better if you use rpm short arms that are around ebay and just drill new holes? also what about the lowers? are you working on those too?

    j

  3. #123
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    IF you’re going to the trouble to make aluminum arms, I would use T6-7071.
    6061 just doesn’t cut it for a-arms and will most definitely bend sooner or later.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  4. #124
    RC Racer
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    The problem with modifying plastic arms is there just isnt enough meat on them once I cut the 3/4" off the end of the short arms. I am working on the lowers as well. I will be doing all 8 arms. From end to end, the arms measure 3.44" long.
    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

  5. #125
    RC Racer
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    Also, in regards to the aluminum arms being "heavy", I shaved 26.4oz (1lb 10.4oz) off the truck strictly by changing from tge stock tmaxx wheels/tires to the team associated stock sc8 wheels/tires. I am also only running 4 shocks, so there is yet another weight savings, although it is not substantial. I am not overly concerned with weight at the moment. The truck has plenty of power with a pro.15 with a front bearing leak.

    If I lose too much power due to weight, I can step the motor size up if I wish.
    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

  6. #126
    RC Competitor
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    I guess I missed this earlier in the year. I did something similar back during December of last year when I converted my truck to electric. It looks like you used the SC8 body, but skipped out on the cage. I used the roll cage in my conversion and really like it. I ran into ride height issues as well after trying to reuse the buggy shocks I had so I need to purchase shorter ones.

    If you do end up making a set of aluminum arms, let me know, I may be interested if you would not mind making a spare set... I swooped up a bunch of spare plastic arms just in case, but this looks like a much better solution.
    Formerly Wildjones before forum upgrade

  7. #127
    RC Racer
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    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

  8. #128
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    just my input, drawings look great... but i think you should be able to do an one hole upper arm rather than a 2 hole stocker design... it will save on material cost and weight... for example like the rear upper arm for a ue racerx design... i think it should be sufficient with t6 7071 aluminum strength, correct me if im wrong.

    btw you have pm

  9. #129
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperPanda View Post
    just my input, drawings look great... but i think you should be able to do an one hole upper arm rather than a 2 hole stocker design... it will save on material cost and weight... for example like the rear upper arm for a ue racerx design... i think it should be sufficient with t6 7071 aluminum strength, correct me if im wrong.

    btw you have pm
    The lack of support between the shocks would be extremely questionable.
    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

  10. #130
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    hum... the bottom arms support the shocks, the upper arms just support the knuckles. i think with the right amount of meat it could work... just a thought

  11. #131
    RC Racer
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    I understand what your saying, but I dont tbjnk there is enough room between the shocks to have a meaty arm. However, that is how a savage upper arm is designed. I am still pondering the idea, and may use it
    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

  12. #132
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeadFootedRacer View Post
    The lack of support between the shocks would be extremely questionable.
    Cool looking rendering tho!

    There's plenty of support! That and it will cut down on waste material & machine time.
    Any of the below arms have plenty of support for the bottom of the shock, especially if made out of 7075 T6.
    UE bottom arm


    Arms that I saw on ebay, don't know who made them.


    Integy's UE racer X rip off bottom arm
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  13. #133
    RC Racer
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    I think he was referring to the upper. Not running the arm on the outside of the shocks, mainly a T shape. Like the savage uppers.

    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

  14. #134
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    well not a T... but the rear upper for a ue racerx... it goes around only one shock.. i don't like T designs much but if the arm can go around one shock i would think that would be more than enough

  15. #135
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeadFootedRacer View Post
    I think he was referring to the upper. Not running the arm on the outside of the shocks, mainly a T shape. Like the savage uppers.
    I gotcha.

    Quote Originally Posted by SuperPanda View Post
    well not a T... but the rear upper for a ue racerx... it goes around only one shock.. I don't like T designs much but if the arm can go around one shock i would think that would be more than enough
    Like this!
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  16. #136
    RC Racer
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    Ooooohhhh... I gotcha. I think I am going to push the lowers into production in the next few weeks and work on a more stable, yet lightweight upper. Does anyone have any pictures of bent arms? Looking to see where the weak points actually lie. I would assume it is the lowers, at the shock mount, due to many brands actually slotting the arm and mounting the shock that way as opposed to leaving a mounting boss like my design. Sticking with 6061 T651 as thats what I have on hand. If I love the way they come out, I will save the tooling amd fixturing and go with a stronger material at a later date.
    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

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