Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 40 of 136
  1. #1
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    197

    Starting a new project...

    Havent played with my maxx in a while, due to the fridgid temperarures lately. Getting sick of looking at it and not enjoying it. I have two, one is a newer 2.5 that is all stock for my fiance, and one is an older 2.5 with a 3.3 and some goodies, which is mine.

    The thought crossed my mind, to build something custom. A quick google search shows me people are doing it, so I figured I would compile my spare parts, spare time, and a little money and do it myself.

    I like the looks of a short course truck like the SC8, Blitz, and Slash, so I am going to turn a maxx into one. It wont see a track, it is meerely a fun project to build and bash. Most of the parts are spares from my othet two maxxes.

    It will be a slow project, but I will update here as I progress. I should have some pictures up in a little bit pf the begining stages.
    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

  2. #2
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    197
    After compiling my spare parts, i started assembling some of the known assemblies to be used. i will be using stock unsealed diffs, steering setup, plastic bodied shocks with stock springs, shock towers and body posts, drive shafts, and axle carriers.

    i also have a stock 2spd black tranny that needs a FOC kit installed.

    i have stock plastic axle shafts that will be modified to work.

    i will be converting to 17mm hubs and run AE SC8 stock wheels/tires (need to order them), and a stock AE SC8 body (also need to order). once the body and wheels are in, i will assemble the truck and make my modifications as needed. I can only assume that the stock 1/10th scale tmaxx is too short in wheel base for the 1/8th scale body, and i am also assuming it is too wide. i will cut down the a arms to get the appropriate width, and modify the axles and turnbuckles as needed. i will then devise some sort of extension plate to get the wheel base where it needs to be.

    also on my to-buy list is a motor mount, motor, gas tank, spur gear, rx and battery boxes, and a rx to match my radio.

    i have a 2.5 that runs extremely poorly, but i am not sure if it is even worth my while to try and debug it. I will probably scout out craigslist for something. a pro .15 or a trx2.5 will suffice for this project, as the smaller wheels/tires won't need the extra power of the 3.3 to get moving. plus the 3.3 is just out of my price range as of now.

    I've got quite a bit of cleaning to do.






    going at this slowly, as funds are limited. hoping to have it ready for spring time!
    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

  3. #3
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    197
    To keep things simple, ive been thinking of using slayer parts versus 1/8th scale parts. Cheaper, and more readily available.
    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

  4. #4
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    197
    been a while... but finally an update... bought a donor truck. its a running/driving pro.15 maxx... not a fan of the pro.15, but with the smaller short course tires, maybe it will perform well. i guess we will see.

    here it is, added to the pile...

    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

  5. #5
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    197
    did some cleaning and disassembly this morning. waiting on my taxes to order the parts to get this project really moving along.



    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Good 'ol U S of Ayyyyyy!
    Posts
    441
    I just rebuilt my old Pro .15 Maxx recently.
    I was amazed at how light weight that thing is.
    Less than 8lbs with EZ start and chevron tires.
    I think with the right assortment of new and old
    parts the Pro .15 Maxx could really be a solid performer.
    Bash, Crash, Upgrade, Repeat..

  7. #7
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    197
    i plan to keep the ez start, out of sheer laziness. i also think the pro .15 should push plenty of power for this truck. fingers are crossed.

    also, with the smaller tires of the SC8, and the material removed from the axles and control arms should really help lighten the truck. also going to go FOC with the tranny. the only place i see a weight problem will be with the mono block i have to build to compensate the wheel base to appropriately fit the body.

    i am not going to legally race the truck. just a fun project, with some outside the box thinking involved. couple buddies of mine are really getting on my case about getting it done. they are curious and intrigued. there is a local outdoor track at a LHS that is rentable for $10 a head for the day. I've never seen anyone there.
    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

  8. #8
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    197
    just threw my maxx (top shelf with green/white body and big joe tires) on the scale just goofing around. 10.8lbs doesn't sound right... i thought it would be heavier than that.
    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

  9. #9
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    197
    wanting to stay on a budget... looking for some brainstorming help here...

    i have 8 stock shocks for the maxx.

    should i use 8 shocks with no preload spacers and lightweight oil, or 4 shocks with preload spacers and heavier oil?

    i want the truck to have that soft short course feel, without spending an arm and a leg on shocks. shocks aren't even in the budget.

    would also entertain the idea of different springs as well as oils. again, this truck is merely a basher. nothing more.
    Last edited by LeadFootedRacer; 02-05-2013 at 05:11 PM.
    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Good 'ol U S of Ayyyyyy!
    Posts
    441
    Since the short coarse trucks are lower than the monster trucks, I'd leave out the
    preload spacers.
    If you're going to run stock shocks, I'd use all 8 of them with dual rate springs
    and at least a 40wt oil, prefferably 50wt.
    You can probably get away with stock shocks unless you find yourself continually
    bending shock shafts or blowing shock caps. Then it's time to upgrade.
    Bash, Crash, Upgrade, Repeat..

  11. #11
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    197
    Dual rate? Who makes them? What color? LoL. Im new to tge shock/spring world. I have a $60 set of team asociated tmaxx shocks on my basher maxx and they are soft, but perform wondwrfully. I would love a set for this buil, but the money just isnt right.
    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Good 'ol U S of Ayyyyyy!
    Posts
    441
    Fullforce RC and RC Raven are the two companies that come to mind, I'm sure there are others.
    As far as colors...purple, blue,green. yellow.red, black,silver.
    They'll run you about 10-15 dollars a set on ebay.
    Bash, Crash, Upgrade, Repeat..

  13. #13
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    197
    just spent $230 on ebay for the parts for this truck build, and an EZ Start setup for my fiancé's truck... that should be enough... for now...
    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

  14. #14
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Good 'ol U S of Ayyyyyy!
    Posts
    441
    Quote Originally Posted by LeadFootedRacer View Post
    just spent $230 on ebay for the parts for this truck build, and an EZ Start setup for my fiancé's truck... that should be enough... for now...
    I feel your pain, it adds up quick. I just spent $300 rebuilding my Pro .15 Maxx.
    Still not sure how I did that. It was nearly a complete truck
    Bash, Crash, Upgrade, Repeat..

  15. #15
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    197
    a little more progress... ordered parts won be here till the middle/end of next week.

    re-oiled the shocks (30wt), and only put on 4, for mock up right now.

    all the way up:


    all the way down:


    at rest from full compression:


    i know the full weight of the truck is not there (no body posts, servos, electronics, battery, gas tank, motor), but i don't hate the way it sits. will a stock 4 shock setup really not support the truck?

    was playing with another idea, using custom cut savage springs on the other 4 shocks for a tad more support, but still leaving the truck soft. the savage springs are much longer, but also very soft. scored 4 off a buddy of mine, going to cut some off and see what happens. my understanding is that short course trucks have a very soft suspension, as they aren't intended for large jumps or rough terrain. i think the softer suspension will also help me achieve the desired ride height, lowering the center of gravity. i already swapped out the towers for newer style ones, because they have the multiple mounting locations.

    spring comparison:
    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

  16. #16
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    197
    Upon doing some more research, it looks like I will be stretching the truck 2.5 inches. The wheel base of the sc8 is documented to be 14.75 inches, and my maxx measures 12.25 inches.

    I would build an entire chassis plate at that length, but I feel that an adapter would suffice just fine. Chassis braces on the other hand, may be a totally different animal.

    Nothing will be done till the body shows up, so I can get a solid number on the length.
    Last edited by LeadFootedRacer; 02-08-2013 at 07:58 PM.
    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

  17. #17
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    103
    LeadFootedRacer will you sell the stock tires and wheels if so how much i would like to have smaller tires but what are you running on the clutch bell i run a 2.5r with a 18 clutch and a 74 spur geardo not have that much room to realy open it up i rarly get in to second before i haave to slow down (tuuuuuuurrrrrrrrrrrrnnnnnnnnnnnnn but i do not like flip ing)also what size are the stock tires i think i have a set of 3.3 on mine but the guy that had it before ne painted them black and they look horibul he painted them flat black but put 2.5 wheels on them 6.3 inches tall my user name is riley n

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Sugar Hill Ga.
    Posts
    8,368
    Quote Originally Posted by LeadFootedRacer View Post
    I would build an entire chassis plate at that length, but I feel that an adapter would suffice just fine. Chassis braces on the other hand, may be a totally different animal.
    Just make an extended skid plate to make up the difference.
    Always best to determine what center shafts you will be using 1st and then stretch the chassis to fit them, otherwise you may end up on a wild goose chase looking for center shafts to fit.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  19. #19
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    197
    Riley, I am going to be running stock replacement wheels/tires off of the SC8.

    Snook, for the time being, i am going to mix/match spare axles to build a rear driveshaft. If they hold up against the weight/grip of the stock tires, I feel they will be suitable for this build. I guess only time will tell.
    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

  20. #20
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    197
    Woohoo! Ups man came today. Stillbwaiting on the body, but the rest of the items are in.

    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

  21. #21
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Good 'ol U S of Ayyyyyy!
    Posts
    441
    Quote Originally Posted by LeadFootedRacer View Post


    all the way down:


    at rest from full compression:

    Your pics helped me out big time buddy, thanks.
    I'm having an issue with my Pro .15 sitting too high (like photo #1) using 8 stock shocks
    no pre loads,and dual rate springs.
    Think if I switch out to 4 Big Bores, dual rate springs, maybe a 50 wt, oil it will sit right where I want
    and handle some decent abuse.
    The key thing is I want to lower the ride height down so the control arms
    are parallel to the ground, not 45 degrees. Should help with handling I hope.

    I'll post some pics when Im done, it might help with your project.
    Thanks for the ideas man.

    BTW, keep the updates coming , this is an interesting project you have here.
    Last edited by NitroTrout; 02-11-2013 at 04:16 PM.
    Bash, Crash, Upgrade, Repeat..

  22. #22
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    197
    I too, am hoping for paralell arms. New issue arose today. The suspension does not return upward. I compress it fully, and it comes up off the table maybe a quarter inch... definitely going to need to run the 8 shocks, just probably not the stock springs on the second set.
    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

  23. #23
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    197
    some pics from today's work:













    Also installed the FOC kit and got the tranny back in the truck, as well as the new body posts, and all the electronics. Just waiting on the body now, to make the required modifications to the length of the wheelbase, and width of the control arms. After that, i will put the motor, tank, and rear driveshaft back in and she should be good for a trial run, to try and dial in the proper spring setup.
    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

  24. #24
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    197
    Cut 7 coils off the savage springs. 30wt oil. 1 shock per corner. Dropped from 2 feet, does not bottom out. Returns to a reasonable height, just a tad slow on the rebound. I think this will be the setup it runs first. See how it handles in corners and whatnot.
    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

  25. #25
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    197
    Still about half inch too tall, but i will wait till the body is on, motor/gas tank mounted, and whatnot.

    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

  26. #26
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Good 'ol U S of Ayyyyyy!
    Posts
    441
    With the narrow control arms will those wheels and tires fit flush with the body
    or will they protrude a little?
    Bash, Crash, Upgrade, Repeat..

  27. #27
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    197
    I read online the SC8 trackwidth is 12 inches. As of now this measures 13.5 inches. I have room to cut the arms, redrill the pillowball holes and fit the tires to the body.
    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

  28. #28
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    705
    It looks a lot less funny with the new shocks on, on the first pics where you out the wheels on I was a little scared of the look, but it looks a lot better now. What kind of body are you planning to put on it?

    Can't say I've ever seen wheels that small on a Maxx

  29. #29
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Cocoa Florida
    Posts
    3,902
    Cool build, it will be interesting to see how it turns out.

    Looking good so far though, keep the updates coming.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  30. #30
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    197
    Quote Originally Posted by rcdriver5 View Post
    It looks a lot less funny with the new shocks on, on the first pics where you out the wheels on I was a little scared of the look, but it looks a lot better now. What kind of body are you planning to put on it?

    Can't say I've ever seen wheels that small on a Maxx

    I am going to be running Team Associated's Rockstar Energy factory SC8 body.
    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Sugar Hill Ga.
    Posts
    8,368
    Have you done anything to address the gearing with the smaller tires/wheels?
    You will have plenty of torque with the smaller wheels if running stock gearing but your top speed will be cut considerably.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  32. #32
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    197
    Quote Originally Posted by Snook Man View Post
    Have you done anything to address the gearing with the smaller tires/wheels?
    You will have plenty of torque with the smaller wheels if running stock gearing but your top speed will be cut considerably.
    That, I have not. I am going to put it together with the pro .15 and stock clutch bell/spurr gear and see how it does. I will not be competing with the truck, just having fun. I see your concern, and that was an aspect that was completely overlooked when planning this build. I am putting together a "round 2" shopping list and am open to suggestions as far as gears go.
    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

  33. #33
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Sugar Hill Ga.
    Posts
    8,368
    What diameter are the tires?
    I can give you a few options for gearing and how to, once I know tire diameter and the top speed your looking for.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  34. #34
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    78
    Looking pretty cool. I've seen people try this and fail but this one looks like it could turn out sweet.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2

  35. #35
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    197
    Snook, the tires are 4.5" dia. I am running a FOC black tranny, and stock 2 screw unsealed diffs.
    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

  36. #36
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Sugar Hill Ga.
    Posts
    8,368
    You’re probably looking at about mid to upper 20’s top speed with the setup you have now.
    I would start somewhere around a 24T bell and a 70 to 66T spur to get closer to the final stock rollout ratio at the wheels. That would give you plenty of room to adjust the mesh. Anything smaller on the spur you may have to start modifying things to get the mesh set properly.
    Since you already have the stock gearing, give it a couple runs to see how you like it, it will be easy to over rev/max out the engine rpm’s with the smaller tires so be cautious.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  37. #37
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    197
    Ok. It is currently setup with a 20t cb and a 72t spur.
    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

  38. #38
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    197
    Found a traxxas 24t cb no issue, will get bearings and shoes to go with it.

    Is this the right spur?
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXJF23&P=ML

    Also, I will grab new pegs, should I use all 12?
    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

  39. #39
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    197
    I am also in the hunt for a black flanged locknut for the wheels... im pretty sure they are 5mm. Open to suggestions.
    T-maxx 2.5 | T-maxx 3.3 | T-maxx pro.15

  40. #40
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Sugar Hill Ga.
    Posts
    8,368
    Yep, that spur will work. 12 pegs with a pro.15 aren’t really necessary, but using all 12 is never a bad idea.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •