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  1. #1
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    SRTracer's trx1 resto-mod

    howdy yall! got me a few new toys over the holidays and i figured this is the perfect project to use as my test bed.

    first new toy is my fujifilm s4500 camera which will be my new camera for everything, has exactly the features i need to shoot rc stuff, but just complicated enough that ill need most of a build thread to figure it out. yall will have to bare with me as i learn the camera. i hope to have perfect pictures by the time the build is complete.

    the other new toy is, you guessed it, a parts lot traxxas trx1, bought it off gecko' sight-unseen.

    this is my first 2.14 gearbox traxxas car and my first true traxxas race buggy since i gave up trying to piece a trx3 together 2 years ago. not sure where im going with this car, it may be an offroad buggy to play with, it may be a full blown oval car that i can use to battle it out with rc10's in our sportsman latemodel class. just gonna play it by ear, ive got everything i need to do either or. no custom chassis or flipped gearboxes this time around though, just a rear motor buggy with some basic changes to fit the style.

    so rambling over, here is das car as i got it...mostly. only a hand full of screws holding it all together, a lot of it is simply sitting on the chassis. which aside from some errant holes is in decent shape. have not cracked open the gearbox yet but i know the diff needs a rebuild and the whole thing needs cleaning.





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  2. #2
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    Im subscribed
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  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Hey, a couple of those parts look familiar!

    All I can tell you is if you put some SRT/Nitro Rustler knuckles and TRX-1 axles on that front end, you'll have way, way, way more steering than you could ever need. And no binding or rubbing anywhere.

  4. #4
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    i wouldnt know nothin bout that harry

    well ran into the first and hopefully last speedbump, right outdrive yolk center screw was stripped, tried to save the yolk but i couldnt. i think ill go to steel ones anyway.



    once inside things were dirty but the gears were totally fine for a runner, ive got plenty of diff gears (just so happened to have a few) and the plastic idler can be swapped to a new aluminum or steel one with a little brain bower err i mean 2 extra bearings or bushing. top gear and diff gear were wear free though. a little bit of rust but very very minor.



    tranny case was dirty inside and its got lots of debris in it but i cant figure out from where. diff adjuster hole is not really lined up right so ill drill/tap it to a larger size (m4 or 5-50 maybe?)



    chassis looks good, can you figure out what 4 holes arent factory, if not, well, i cant help you there



    ok so maybe i can....



    there it is all torn down.



    started thinking hard and putting together what id need too, aside from electronics, i need new male trx shafts, bandit rear arms, n-rusty rear arm mounts and shims, slipper setup (maybe), turnbuckles since i only have a few technacraft and mis-matched junked traxxas links, need new half shafts, and a servo saver for futaba because all i have laying around is hitec, airtronics, and a few broken futaba.

    i want to dye the white parts, decided to strip the anodizing on the motor mount. need to make a front tie-bar. either swap completely for velcro or make a fiberglass battery strap (probably option A). and lastly i may need to make a front shock tower for tc3 shocks and/or b4 fronts.

    oh and i need a set of front shocks, cant seem to find my last nip set of bodies and shafts in tc3 size and ive only got one set of spare b4 front bodies, that'r used.

    on the camera side, im playing with light balance still and figuring out how to get super crisp close in shots, kinda there but the quality is meh. either too washed out or too dark
    FieroMan121|SPC LiPo powered|Vintage TRX collector

  5. #5
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    Haha ya instead of let the parts sit and collect dust i sold them to SRTracer so they could get used
    And harry i couldnt figure out what those holes were there for either maybe more servo mounting selections?
    Last edited by Gecko5678; 12-26-2012 at 11:02 PM.
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  6. #6
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    as much as i may whine about where i work i do have enough time off between night shifts and days off that i can get rc crap done if i get motivated.....



    so err yeah, i done been rc wrenching. woke up early and gutted my 272 sprint car for some parts. stole the...
    • .71 AE FT rear shocks
    • factory works oval conversion shock tower
    • bulkhead
    • srt steering knuckles/spindles, c-blocks, slipper
    • blue eagle steering bell crank.





    also did some shopping last night before i hit the rack, got me a set of unobtanium shock shafts and FT tc3 shock bodies (p/n 3964 and 3990) to go with them, also looking at picking up a A&L JRX ball bearing bell crank set since lets be honest, the stock nylon set blows big time. http://vintageteamaandl.com/

    rummaged a bit more in my parts boxes and found some good looking turnbuckles for F/r camber links as well as a drag link. as always, dubro captured ends and rpm ball cups on the ends.




    not everything is pictured since a bunch of stuff is down in the garage soaking in water and my super secret cleaning solution (simple green concentrate and tide ).

    started on some fabbing too as you can see, started on the tie bar for the front and did up the battery strap. made from a piece of rc104.1 graphite battery strap i found at the track a few weeks back.


    tiebar in progress
    Last edited by SRTracer121; 12-27-2012 at 04:08 PM.
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  7. #7
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    Lookin good... Maybe I'll give that secret cleaning solution a try
    Rc...my wallet hates it...but my brain loves it

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Was there anything covering the diff access hole? If not, that's where all the dirt came from. I've forgotten to put the grub screw back in after tuning my diff before and it would destroy the trans within a few minutes.

    As for the holes in the chassis; no idea. That's how it was back when I got it. I couldn't make any sense of it because none of the extra holes even looked symmetrical.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by harry697 View Post
    I've forgotten to put the grub screw back in after tuning my diff before and it would destroy the trans within a few minutes.
    ive never heard of anyone ever doing that, i certainly never did it, and i certainly never shredded a 272 gear set in the middle of a race day with no spares in my pit box.


    had to swing by work this afternoon so i picked up some easy-off while i was there.
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  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SRTracer121 View Post
    ive never heard of anyone ever doing that, i certainly never did it, and i certainly never shredded a 272 gear set in the middle of a race day with no spares in my pit box.


    had to swing by work this afternoon so i picked up some easy-off while i was there.
    I used to have problems with dirt getting in my LS-II trans also. I used to put a piece of electrical tape over the access hole. Turns out the tape was lifting a little bit and the dirt was pouring in. Put one of the grub screws from an output yoke in there and never had another issue.


    I always thought everyone covered the access hole. Pretty sure it's mentioned in the manual too. Here's some pics from around the forum (none are mine).












    Last edited by harry697; 12-27-2012 at 05:37 PM.

  11. #11
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    cleaned the parts and mocked up what i could pics in the AM' for all of that also finished the front tiebar.

    got a body but i want to keep that a secret for now, here is a hint though... http://www.floridaracingmemories.com...almbeachl1.htm

    that Z2 car is a bad looking machine! would look better in my colors though.

    on the way to the lhs i swung by a buddy of mine's cabinet shop, guy has tons of nifty old rc stuff and along with the body, i also got an A&L steering rack (err most of one), and a sheet of old parma 1/16th g10 that ill be using for a front shock tower.

    when i got to the hobby shop i brought a RPM slash 4x4 front bumper that is just the right size for the front of the chassis so i wont need to do too much cutting, also got some nitro rusty rear a-arm mounts. they did not have any bandit rear arms or complete axle sets, and i struck out looking for a set of the original 3/32 chrome trx turnbuckles for steering links. also picked up some black oxide m4 c.s. screws some serrated trx blue nuts and a parma fiftyfive body for the previously mentioned guy as a late xmas gift (stopped by on the way back to give it to him)

    also, got a line on a legal 17.5 system for 50 bucks so win there too

    edit: i am a massive idiot and shouldnt be allowed to buy anything for myself....

    had the rear a-arm blocks in my hand at the hobby shop, they were +1 degree set in black too but some how they never made it to the register because it isnt on my receipt and it aint with my stuff. gotta call them when they open and tell them what happened.
    Last edited by SRTracer121; 12-29-2012 at 12:20 AM.
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  12. #12
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    that stinks that you didnt get the a arm blocks. oh and when i click on the link it doesent work
    Rc...my wallet hates it...but my brain loves it

  13. #13
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    FieroMan121|SPC LiPo powered|Vintage TRX collector

  14. #14
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    picture time













    need to fab up a drag link bar now that im using the a&l bellcranks. have it figured out, just need to cut it out.


    _______

    i had a very detailed and lengthy phone call with one of my racing buddies this morning about how i want to do the front shock geometry. i really cant decide whether to do a laydown setup like my lto srt or an upright setup more akin to touring cars. they both have gives and takes for the track we run and what i can manage as a driver. i decided im going to make 2 towers, a tower design taken from speedy's xxx oval conversion http://www.speedysracingparts.com/0ae902a0.jpg and and another designed like the McAllister rc10 lowering kit http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/e...X/_DSC3031.jpg and im going to play with both setups.

    got my shock bodies in the mail today too and im a little annoyed because i was expecting the older silver ft set and instead got the dark grey/black ones. picture in the ebay ad showed the prior. however i kinda like it i guess, just dont like that the rears dont match.
    FieroMan121|SPC LiPo powered|Vintage TRX collector

  15. #15
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    I vote laydown setup
    Rc...my wallet hates it...but my brain loves it

  16. #16
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    EDIT: sorry about the size, stupid photobucket wont let me resize anymore. i hate the new version *ticked off face*

    well the disadvantage to running a slammed setup is that the shocks dont react right, need to run like 90wt with atleast a 10lb spring (were getting into touring car spring rate territory). the big advantage is travel though, much more arm travel relative to shock shaft travel. most guys who run slammed setups are running at places like bumps and jumps. indoor, high bite, consistent flat tracks http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KTjihQw3_kA

    most oval guys seem to be of the consensus that upright shocks in the front work best on tracks like mine (outdoor, mixed condition, loose dirt).

    good exampes are how the customworks loose dirt and high bite sprint cars are setup

    outlaw is what you'd run at our track http://www.customworksrc.com/Product...683-1231361613
    enforcer is more in line with a trrack like B&J's

    however i run a slammed setup on my ltosrt and its the cats pajamas's when our track is grooved up. top 3 every week with that chassis.

    _______________________

    so anyway, a little progress!

    got the steering rack done but im not sure i like it yet. feel like the drag bar is too low or too high depending on the ways i mount it, thinking ill have crazy bump steer either way but mounted under the bellcranks, the rod ends catch and screws drag on the chassis. however mounting under the bump steer will be of the sorta good variety meaning as the arms travel up through the turn itll draw the inside tire into a tighter turn but kinda push the outside out a little, giving me a ton more toe out basically.



    shock bodies came in as i mentioned. not keen on the color but they ought to be smooth as butdah'

    compared to the ones ill be using in the back...


    good on springs too


    also when i came home last night i stripped the anodizing off the motor mount and brushed it up real purdy like.



    for refrence here is an srt motor guard, blue eagle motor guard, and a sledge rear skid with good anodizing.



    also did up the front body posts, some old stock associated posts for the rc10gt.

    Last edited by SRTracer121; 12-31-2012 at 10:17 AM.
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  17. #17
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    its been a few days since i updated this so lets do a cram session here and get caught up....

    still no shock shafts, the guy used snail mail and took like 4-5 days just to ship it. he wont be getting great feedback thats for sure. cant make shock towers till i get the shocks.

    i did get a different bellcrank though was looking for a motor mount heat sink i had and found these in the bottom of my ae parts bin, dont know when i got it, why i have it, and least of all who i got it from but i have it and its mine!

    i had to mount the servo in a different spot though, no other way to do it cleanly. also offset it slightly so it has a smoother range of motion and its on the left side of course mocked it up with the stock tower and there is very little bump steer till you get the the extreme top of the arm travel

    also got my motor and esc from the guy, motor is a speed passion "sportsman" club spec 17.5


    while i was back there i rebuilt the diff and got the tranny bolted together, hopefully for the last time for the course of this build.


    holy overkill gear ratio batman! most of the fast guys running this class are geared in the mid to low 5's im geared 31/81so im right there (like 5.5 something)


    funny story about the gear ratio, i scoured the internet far and wide looking for a gearing chart for the 2.14 box and couldnt find it but didnt want to sit there and write one out myself, however i also forgot that i have a trx3 manual... on my wall... right behind me... with the gearing chart in the back.

    also got the rear shocks rebuilt and mounted. 35wt oil with kipps red and white respectively, for whatever reason the preload collars didnt want to thread so i just slapped some of the plastic preload spacers on instead

    so there she sits



    i worked on the body last night too, yall wont believe what i did, im rather proud of it myself
    FieroMan121|SPC LiPo powered|Vintage TRX collector

  18. #18
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    Lookin good man! I'm really diggin it so far.

    Those are the vintage RPS/Losi bell cranks no? Very cool!

    Curious to see the body also.
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  19. #19
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    guess who decided to show up last night? a set of unobtanium shock shafts. only a few days late right? oh well, i got the day off and im in the mood to build some shocks!

    ill also be snapping a picture or two on the body. just teasers to screw with yall, i am a giver after all
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  20. #20
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    front end is done and let me tell yall, what a pain in the keaster this was! it initially bolted up great, i was really happy with everything, just started out with a slammed setup since i dont have a speedy's front tower in front of me to model off of and the slammed setup is more involved anyway. after i bolted it up i was ready to call it a day and snap some pictures. i was happy with the range of travel, the minimal bump steer, the way it looked. it was perfect...

    so then i got really ambitious and tried to rig up the body on the front end.


    well issue one, car is wider than the body. after salvaging a set of stock black plastic sledgehammer arms i got it rigged up (again) and i was totally ok with it, a little bit more elbow grease than i had planned for but ok, it all went together reasonably well...



    issue two mocked the car up on the left side as i happen to have everything to do just one side and guess what fellers? THE CARS TOO LONG FOR THE BODY! *facepalm*

    ya know i was so proud of the 2 entities, the body modding came out fantastic, im so proud of myself for it and ill be taking pictures of it either way for my own sake but its such a shame i cant use it on this car, im gonna have to just knuckle down and buy a molded 10 inch wide late model body now.

    probably going to go with the 10 inch wide LERNERVILLE from mcallister http://www.mcallisterracing.com/index_files/Page364.htm

    however i might see about mcallister re-popping a luminator body for me, they still have the molds and its my favorite late model body of all time.


    im burned out for the night so yall will get pictures eventually
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  21. #21
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    that stinks that you cant se the body after all that work. man not seeing the pics of the body is KILLING me!!!
    Rc...my wallet hates it...but my brain loves it

  22. #22
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    ill snap pictures either tonight after work (over slept this morning so i know i wont be able to fall asleep till like 0100hrs) or tomorrow morning

    still gonna stick with the shorter arms though, it puts it nicely at a little under 9 inches so plenty of wiggle room for a 10 inch or a 9 inch really.
    FieroMan121|SPC LiPo powered|Vintage TRX collector

  23. #23
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    so here is the front end complete, lighting was terrible no matter what i tried. take bod pictures in the morning since i couldnt get them right at all





    can you guess what i made the brackets from?




    added a gt body mount bracket to the back of the tower, on both my rc10mid motor and my lto srt i have reoccurring issues with supporting the middle front of the body so this is a bit of proactive thinking.


    does not bottom out but its close, more than enough articulation for me.



    for those wondering what a luminator looks like here is a bad example.
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  24. #24
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    One word... Sick!!! Especially love how u mounted the shocks
    Rc...my wallet hates it...but my brain loves it

  25. #25
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    just got off the phone with mcallister racing, they do still have the molds and they will re-pop one. it was 14.95 + shipping. lets see anyone else beat that price!


    gecko, idk how that shock setup will perform as a rear motor chassis, works well enough with my mid motor lto srt. i will have the other tower done this upcoming week i hope.
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  26. #26
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    Wow,nice work so far dude! And the pics are awesome. I've had my new camera for almost two years and still can't get half my photos to come out as nice.


    And speaking of body fit issues,I'm having problems finding a body wide enough to cover my Blue Eagle as it sits now.It is just slightly over 13 inches wide at the front wheels[measured from the outer tire side walls].
    When I first started the build I was thinking of possibly using the HPI '70 'Cuda body but the tires stick out so far past the body that it looks like a joke. Now I'm looking at 1/8 and 1/5 scale bodies but can't find anything I like so far.
    Bullet/Bullet2 / Hawk2/ Blue Eagle/E-Maxx/T-Maxx

  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
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    Great looking build.

    Great old photo's, but Ya gotta hate to see the way they butchered those old muscle cars to make them into Bomber class racers.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  28. #28
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    @marv, if you go to buggy wheels and run the short arms you can make 9 inch wides fit as i did on this'n however keeping truck arms and tires the only semi decent option is 1/8th scale and they will be too long. wheel base is all wrong. they have similar wb's to the sc trucks and 1/8th buggies

    @wildman, yes and no, if i were gonna buy old cars, the old bombers and dirt cars that guys built in their backyards would be near the top of my list. it adds character to the history of the cars.

    ______________

    mcallister said to re-pop that luminator i may have to wait a week. 2 days later its in the mail on its way to me from arizona, got it yesterday and then went over to the lhs to buy the rear arms along with some paint.

    car is done and its 0230 in the morning! it looks fantastic! pictures in the am before i head to work.
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  29. #29
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    mcallister is in AZ!!! Maybe i should go there someday...
    Rc...my wallet hates it...but my brain loves it

  30. #30
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    pictures! pictures everywhere!

    not the best paintjob ive ever done but its far better than most i do, helps if you've done the same body twice before (dont ask).


    my last trx1 decal and oh how good it looks on there


    i do not cheat, this spliter is just left clear because, totally in the spirit of the rules......


    also low body is LOW


    compared to the ltosrt charger body its a good inch lower


    yeah yeah i know i still didnt upload pictures of the first body, took them but i want to drag my keaster a little, dont judge me.
    FieroMan121|SPC LiPo powered|Vintage TRX collector

  31. #31
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    here are some completed chassis pictures. also time to spill on the esc ill be running. its a Xcar 35amp, more than enough for this setup. my mmp kinda burned me on fancy pants esc's and since we cant run them in this particular class to begin with i figured ill give the very bottom end esc's a go. plus it was a good deal


    still working on sorting out the tangle of wires, may drop a rustler rx box in.


    so chassis



    articulation shots since i know some of yall cant get enough of them. dont know what you'd expect out of an oval car but whatev's






    last minute addition is this transponder mount. you know a guy means business when he's sporting a transponder mount


    added the final body mounts. rc10gt mounts all around
    FieroMan121|SPC LiPo powered|Vintage TRX collector

  32. #32
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    went by the track today. car ran great, it ought to as slow as the dang thing was

    may go up in the right rear 1 spring rate.

    also as low as that body was it didnt really catch like i thought it would, if the track was rougher maybe, but not bad as all.

    ran a little too much though, broke the lower right front shock mount, made up 2 new ones from kydex.




    geared up too. im in the low 5's now but after about 8 minutes the system was barely warm.


    @coelacanth, so far this has been smooth sailing, a few minor hiccups but even the home made stuff was easy and simple, the upright tower will be tricky but ive made more than a few shock towers now so i think itll come out fine, almost all the previous ones were done by hand with a drill, this one will be done with a drill press so it shouldnt be too bad especially since that parma 1/16th g10 drills so easy and nice. (can yall tell im confident)
    FieroMan121|SPC LiPo powered|Vintage TRX collector

  33. #33
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    Dude, that beast looks super cool. Awesome work.




    And thanks for mentioning the wheelbase thing with 1/8 scale bodies,I was so busy worrying about the body width problem on my Blue Eagle that I completely about the blasted wheelbase.

    I guess I'll have to start snooping around and see if anybody makes a decent open wheel Formula One type body[late 50s,early to mid 60s style].
    Bullet/Bullet2 / Hawk2/ Blue Eagle/E-Maxx/T-Maxx

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