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  1. #81
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    I tin the wire then put.it in the bullet connector and heat it up while holding the solder into that small hole. Once hot enough it will suck all the solder it needs. Keep adding solder until you see that its good

  2. #82
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    Here's a video on the power supplies and charger. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4JxR...ature=youtu.be I still have not heard back from Dan at Kershaw designs since I paid him. I'm starting to get a little worried, not the fact that it is late, but the fact that there has been no contact between the 17th and now. Hopefully he responds on Monday which is what his out of office says.
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  3. #83
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    So, now that I have a single port charger, can someone point me to a diagram of a series balance adapter for a 2 and 3s battery to make a 5s pack? The charger has the watts to do this at 10 amps, the psu has the amps to sustain it without even knowing it is there, but I can't go above 10 amp limit for the charger. I put a 10 amp charge load on the psu and it actually go cooler by 2 somehow! I think this will sustain my charging needs for now.
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  4. #84
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    Do you only have one of each. I usually charge them mine in pairs

  5. #85
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    I did the same thing recently with an HP 1300 watt power supply. The only draw back is the fans were loud but a resistor network and a bimetal switch on the heat sink knocked back the fan rpms until the heatsink get good and warm, 160F and its a huge heat sink! They seldom go on high now. I had to have a minimum 70amp rail to go with the Hitech X2 400W charger. Its good for 800W total at 20amps per battery, 2 at a time. Can charge up two 3s 5000mAh 40C packs from storage to full charge in 12 minutes. I only saw one power supply worth a hoot available commercially and it was darn near $300. Picked this one up on fleabay for $16.99 shipped, andother $15 in wire, resistors and binding posts and Im set.

    Quote Originally Posted by Money pit View Post
    So, now that I have a single port charger, can someone point me to a diagram of a series balance adapter for a 2 and 3s battery to make a 5s pack?
    Shouldnt be too difficult to make. Im assuming you are going to connect them in series to charge?
    If so you just need a 2s and 3s and 5s extension. Pull the pins from the female end (other end is plugged into charger) of the 5s extension, Pull and transfer the female ends of the other two extansions and insert the pins from the 5s into those going in cell order and you end up with a Y adaptor.
    Last edited by JustinThyme; 01-06-2013 at 08:43 PM.

  6. #86
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    Thanks Justin, I am assuming I just connect both of the positive wires from the 2 and 3s into the one positive on the 5s connector? I am trying to just make sure that I won't have any shorts or charger malfunctions now or in the future.
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  7. #87
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    Have you checked to see if yours had shims on your spider gears? Mine and clp didn't have them

  8. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by 50togo View Post
    Have you checked to see if yours had shims on your spider gears? Mine and clp didn't have them
    SHIMS??????? No, mine did not. Taking the car apart again!!!!! Where did you buy yours?

    Edit: Or do you know what size shims they are?
    Last edited by Money pit; 01-06-2013 at 11:55 PM.
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  9. #89
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    Check out clp in his last post b3538 and thank him!
    You have to buy the spider gears too ebay has them losb3538

  10. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by 50togo View Post
    Check out clp in his last post b3538 and thank him!
    You have to buy the spider gears too ebay has them losb3538
    Right, I am trying to stay local, so would you happen to know the size of the shims. I am hoping to get this done tomorrow, so that it can be back together asap.
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  11. #91
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    I just talked to craig he also used a3501 under the shaft gears. Where the axle stubs go through behind the seal. Check that out too!

  12. #92
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  13. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by Money pit View Post
    Right, I am trying to stay local, so would you happen to know the size of the shims. I am hoping to get this done tomorrow, so that it can be back together asap.
    You may need these shims also they are 6x11x.2mm Part# LOSA3501 for the large gears that turn the drive yokes.

  14. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by clp71220 View Post
    You may need these shims also they are 6x11x.2mm Part# LOSA3501 for the large gears that turn the drive yokes.
    Thank you, do you know the size needed for the spider gears?
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  15. #95
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    Here you go mate, this is from post #161...for the complete parts list post #162.

    Quote Originally Posted by craig.mitch316 View Post
    I have been getting a lot of PM's lately about this mod and how it works and fits together; I thought I would post the details here for everyone as I recently rebuilt my diffs after inspecting them.

    This should be read in conjunction with Post #26...a lot of the questions have been what happens from here and how does it fit together.

    Traxxas Part #5454


    I hack sawed the threaded end off and then grinded down so that the drive axial was a length of 22.25mm. I also chamfered the sharp edge so it was nice and smooth fit in the diff cup.



    When installing in the diff, this is what I did.



    I fitted the pin which I took from LOSI LOSB3540 Differential Outdrive Set...(I only needed the pin for the traxxas drive axle); I then put 1 x 6mm shim and the o-ring.

    This is how it fits to the spider gear. Their is a recess in the back of the spider gear to accommodate the pin.



    In the view below you can see the stub axial protruding slightly out of the spider gear...this is the side I cut the tread off and chamfered to remove the sharp edge. If you insert the Losi drive cup it protrudes something similar.



    The end result...this is what it looks like when the spider gears and internal crossbars and spacers; diff cup and ring gear are assembled together .

    Rock n Rolla !

  16. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by craig.mitch316 View Post
    Here you go mate, this is from post #161...for the complete parts list post #162.
    OHHHH, I see now. I will pick up some shims tomorrow. Thanks Craig, I thought we were talking about spider gear shims

    Edit: I still need to take the whole thing apart, maybe I can see if the diff will sit any lower in the front bulk, it is at an angle.
    Last edited by Money pit; 01-07-2013 at 04:22 AM.
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  17. #97
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    You will need the spider gears shim to mate...not sure why they didn't come them as the exploded view shows them.



    This is the parts minus the 6mm shims referred to from the above post #95.

    Spider gear shims B3538...unfortunately you have to buy the spider gears to get them.
    Rock n Rolla !

  18. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by craig.mitch316 View Post
    You will need the spider gears shim to mate...not sure why they didn't come them as the exploded view shows them.



    This is the parts minus the 6mm shims referred to from the above post #95.

    Spider gear shims B3538...unfortunately you have to buy the spider gears to get them.
    AWWWWW!!! I thought I could get out of that one... alright, thanks Craig.
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  19. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by Money pit View Post
    Edit: I still need to take the whole thing apart, maybe I can see if the diff will sit any lower in the front bulk, it is at an angle.
    I think that is why some of the guys who did the same mod as me had centre CVD failure...post #229 to 238. I think the lack of grease and the angle of the front centre CVD was at too much of an angle...it was probably putting unnecessary strain on the yoke...IDK, thinking out loud.

    In my experience the front bulk required way more removal of materiel than the rear to get the centre CVD and pinion to run parallel to each other if that makes sense.
    Rock n Rolla !

  20. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by craig.mitch316 View Post
    I think that is why some of the guys who did the same mod as me had centre CVD failure...post #229 to 238. I think the lack of grease and the angle of the front centre CVD was at too much of an angle...it was probably putting unnecessary strain on the yoke...IDK, thinking out loud.

    In my experience the front bulk required way more removal of materiel than the rear to get the centre CVD and pinion to run parallel to each other if that makes sense.
    Are yours almost completely level now, or are they at a bit of an angle? I need to get one of those carving bits for the dremel, sanding takes too long and they don't last more than minutes.
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  21. #101
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    This is what I use to dremel my bulks...4 different grinding stones...I have my dremel speed set at 3, it goes through the plastic like butter.



    My front pinion and centre CVD are almost the same as they would be on the stock diff.
    Rock n Rolla !

  22. #102
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    Hmm, mine get a bunch of plastic on the end and renders them basically useless. I'll find out what they have though, and thanks for the positioning tip, my front on is far from stock angle.
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  23. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by Money pit View Post
    Hmm, mine get a bunch of plastic on the end and renders them basically useless. I'll find out what they have though, and thanks for the positioning tip, my front on is far from stock angle.
    Increase your dremel speed...mine do the same...melted plastic. You can see my one shaped like a triangle, I use that the most. Its also full of plastic but still works like a charm .

    The angle I think is very important....the straighter the line the better
    Rock n Rolla !

  24. #104
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    This is the bit I tried works pretty good too

  25. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by 50togo View Post
    This is the bit I tried works pretty good too
    Is that the sculpting bit?
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  26. #106
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  27. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by 50togo View Post
    Ok, thanks. I will take a trip to home depot if it stays dry today.
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  28. #108
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    I just talked to Dan and he said that he should be getting the front dogbone today and shipping today!!! I really need to get those shims done and wrestle the bulkhead a bit more so that I can drive soon.

    Edit: shims are ordered from my hobbyshop and I will get the 6mm shims also when I go. Now I get to tear down the car again, not because I broke it, but because I didn't have parts that I didn't know existed.
    Last edited by Money pit; 01-07-2013 at 11:35 AM.
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  29. #109
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    Hey davis better check your pinion for play. Up &down not side to side both of my aluminum cases that I bought off ebay from the same seller as yours do it. I took them apart and for the heck of it used some paper for a shim on top of the bearing and it tightened it up. I had to order a few more hopefully they are better

  30. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by 50togo View Post
    Hey davis better check your pinion for play. Up &down not side to side both of my aluminum cases that I bought off ebay from the same seller as yours do it. I took them apart and for the heck of it used some paper for a shim on top of the bearing and it tightened it up. I had to order a few more hopefully they are better
    There is no play, but I won't be working on anything for now. Some things have come up in my life that are more important, but I hope to be back soon.
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  31. #111
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    I got bored again (told you, happens A LOTTT!!!) and was thinking of how Craig was breaking his bulheads. Then it hit me, There is a slot in the bulkhead where the stock diff goes and the Losi does not. Upon compression normally there is mass there to stop it from bending and breaking the opposite side of the bulk. I then went to Mister Crash's thread and saw this:


    Photo credits: Mister Crash, I do not claim ownership in any way.

    This would stop the flex from bad landings and the torque from simply spinning the wheels, so have you done this Craig? 50togo and Clp71220 (sorry if I got that wrong, that is from memory...) You may want to do this also, here is the link:
    traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?464362-Got-my-ERBE-and-I-m-going-to-change-a-lot-of-things/page19

    Post# 747.
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  32. #112
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    i read that when i was searching .have to be pretty stiff to help and didn't he abandon his revo after getting it running?
    i did a little grinding on the diff case .front bulkhead i removed very little material

  33. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by 50togo View Post
    i read that when i was searching .have to be pretty stiff to help and didn't he abandon his revo after getting it running?
    i did a little grinding on the diff case .front bulkhead i removed very little material
    He did because he got into helis. I was thinking that maybe this could be fabbed in a 99 cent cutting board and then cut into a peice of carbon fiber? Plenty stiff and it is easy to work with. I'll just stop by the 99 cent store if my 2nd choice hobbyshop would ever call me. It has been three days since I was supposed to be called and each time I ask if they are in they just get more irritated even though it was supposed to be there the day after I ordered... But from what Craig has showed me is the bulks don't break where we are grinding, but on the more forward lower side, so this may help with that.
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  34. #114
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    Double post...
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  35. #115
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    could even make it out of metal

  36. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by clp71220 View Post
    Money pit you and I are waiting on the same thing. That front Dog bone. I still have my car running at the moment. I plan to run some tomorrow. I figure so long I don't punch it to much and prevent the wheelies the stock differentials will last a bit longer. I like the lights on yours. My wife said she wants lights on her car now. So here I go with the lights install on her E-REVO.
    I think I will just use an external battery and switch.
    Just slap on the summit front and rear bumpers,



    $25-$30 on eBay for the entire kit with harness to plug into the receiver.
    ERBE, ERBE, Summit, Slash 4X4, Bandit,

  37. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by 50togo View Post
    could even make it out of metal
    I could, but with cf I could say that I have carbon on it It is easier to work with also, but I may do it with metal if need be.

    Quote Originally Posted by Zepher View Post
    Just slap on the summit front and rear bumpers,



    $25-$30 on eBay for the entire kit with harness to plug into the receiver.
    You could do that, but I personally need the light when I run at a friends track in the dark. My work light doesn't do the whole track and it is hard to see a black truck in the dark. I found that the summit connectors came apart very easily and the pins would not stay in the jst plugs. With my setup it is all solder going to a well soldered servo connector. Either way you go it will be light
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  38. #118
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    I had a look at that mate...not sure if that really works. You will have to test and let us know.

    I am breaking the right side of the front bulkhead first...It then continues to crack until it cracks in half. I think its from the diff pushing on the bulkhead. I did not remove any material off my diff case either but have been thinking about it for some time tho.

    I am going to strip my truck down soon and re look at the Losi mod.

    All three front bulk heads have cracked exactly the same...
    Rock n Rolla !

  39. #119
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    Alright Craig, will do. Btw, what gearing are you using since I will be losing some speed with these diffs? The best I have is 21/58, but can pick up anything at the lhs.
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  40. #120
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    i figure you loose about 4 teeth in gearing on the pinion

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