Page 6 of 6 FirstFirst ... 456
Results 201 to 212 of 212
  1. #201
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    San Diego, California
    Posts
    507
    Again, I have no problem waiting, it was the fact that he told me he was picking them up and shipping that day and a whole week later I hear that I am going to have to wait even longer after waiting for a month, when they were supposed to be shipped a week ago and I had a notification that they were. Had he told me there was a problem earlier I would have waited, but since he sent me a false shipping notification and didn't tell me for a week that he still did not have it, I have a problem. I am still sorry for those of you that paid to get yours, but I will enjoy mine on his dime because I just saw that he refunded me on the credit card statement.
    I reject your reality and substitute my own!

  2. #202
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    San Diego, California
    Posts
    507
    Ok, so I only got the icharger 106b+ in a deliberate attempt to keep myself from charging at more than 2c, even though I should do less than 1c for maximum performance and life blah blah blah... I run 5s in series, so parallel is not an option for charging, since batteries need to be the same voltage for parallel to work. So, I am limited to 10 amps, BUT 250 watts. So, that means that I can put 10 amps through a 6s with no problem. I decided that I would make myself a series adapter for the balance port and the main charge port. To do this I simply took deans 12awg and 4xmale bullets, 2 female bullets, and 2x Traxxas male connectors. Now, for the challenging part, and where the danger comes in. You CAN do this without the adapter and just plug into your balance board, but this is unsafe and even more dangerous. With 2x epbuddy.com 3s jst-xh 12 inch extensions I took the female and soldered it to an old balance board connecting wire. I went from the right(negative) to the left (positive) and put the 2s on the right of the connector, or the negative. With one of the connections to the battery being in series, this means that you are now able to short the packs to each other. To prevent this, I zip tied the positive main port wire to the positive balance wire, not impossible to get it wrong, but harder. I didn't have the right mindset to be doing this, and in the beginning I accidentally shorted them together for a split second, but both batteries are fine, I don't run those anymore anyways. Now I can charge both packs at once, both being balanced and in half the time of doing them separately. I may have to look into better cooling in the summer, but for now the internal fan will do just fine.

    Disclaimer: Do this at your own risk, I am not responsible for any damage or injuries caused by doing this. Please know what you are doing and how to do it. This process is safe if done correctly, but can be dangerous if done incorrectly.

    It would be nice if a company made these kinds of connectors, but when I spoke to Progressiverc they told me that they don't because parallel is safer, which is true, but for different size packs that simply won't work. I left a note for epbuddy, so I will see if they ever follow through with making them bigger, the current ones only go to 3 amps, I want MORE. I will give epbuddy and progressiverc credit though, they have awesome products and prices, highly recommended from me now, and as you have seen that doesn't come easy

    Helpful reminder, Parallel can be done with different mah and same cell count and the charger only charges at a 2cell rate if you have 2 cells and you add the amps of the batteries. With series, you charge as a single, but larger voltage pack and the amps stay the same.
    Last edited by Money pit; 02-08-2013 at 11:10 AM.
    I reject your reality and substitute my own!

  3. #203
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    so cal
    Posts
    9,244
    Nice write up davis!
    I take the easy route I have two 2s and two 3s and parallel each separately when making 4s and 5s runs and try to plan ahead and also like charging below 1C when I can

  4. #204
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    San Diego, California
    Posts
    507
    Quote Originally Posted by 50togo View Post
    Nice write up davis!
    I take the easy route I have two 2s and two 3s and parallel each separately when making 4s and 5s runs and try to plan ahead and also like charging below 1C when I can
    Thanks, I got bored again... I could have done better, but I am sleep deprived ATM. With that said I am going to bed.
    I reject your reality and substitute my own!

  5. #205
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    so cal
    Posts
    9,244
    Get some sleep! I was up at 3am again on the forum

  6. #206
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    San Diego, California
    Posts
    507
    Ok, I have broken the first drive shaft today, but it was user error. I accidentally engaged reverse in the air and it locked the front left and busted it at the wheel. Better than a whole diff though... The series charging is perfect and works like a dream. I am very careful to check over my wiring before plugging it in. To get the charger to accept it, you need to connect the two batteries together and then to the charger. Not sure why that is, but I won't fiddle with it because it works. I like to keep my chargers cool, so I used a spare 12v fan I had from an old computer power supply (quiet and powerful) to blow over the charger. I only draw about 16 amps from the power supply, and it only dips to 12.39-12.35 from a resting voltage of 12.45. Even with the fans on low the psu didn't get warm. I should have done this from the beginning, it is all wonderful. For some reason I keep killing esc fans, even with the stocking over it. Some are DOA, I'll talk to muchmore racing again, because last time they replaced all of them for free! I still highly recommend this mod to others who have diff issues.
    I reject your reality and substitute my own!

  7. #207
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    46
    Glad its up and running dude...I've been following your build thread along with some others who have done the LST2 mod.

  8. #208
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    3,255
    Sweet...get some pics of it up in action mate
    Rock n Rolla !

  9. #209
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    San Diego, California
    Posts
    507
    Quote Originally Posted by craig.mitch316 View Post
    Sweet...get some pics of it up in action mate
    I need to get a new tripod, my last one was from 1980 something and disintegrated in the boat with 115 heat. I just need to remember that I need one, since I don't do a lot of static or panning shots.
    I reject your reality and substitute my own!

  10. #210
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    San Diego, California
    Posts
    507
    OK, here it goes again.... I caught it on fire....



    Small one this time; just big enough to roast marshmallows, but not weiners. At this rate I am thinking about burning paper money.... it would take longer to go through it than driving it would.

    So, the receiver rather showingly burst into flames this time. The only thing that I see is the channel 5 positive pin which is blackened. I don't know how since the fan that was connected there still works (other than blades breaking from me taking it apart to get to the fire) The Traxxas representative was dumbfounded and wanted me to send the whole car in for a damage check (don't think so, bub.) So, I will be sending just the receiver in tomorrow after I go to the hobbyshop to show off my kill Hopefully I will be an employee there over the summer and get a discount for my future endeavors.

    Update: I love this conversion. The diffs are so strong it's unbelievable. The hot glue failed me, so I made true blocks like Mistercrash did and they are fine now. I need to order another 8mm diff output because it was destroyed when thee diff moved around, also taking the chassis with it. The Kershaw designs parts are excellent, especially since they were free I would still highly recommend this conversion to anyone running more than 4s. I will hopefully be getting more action shots when I run with some friends again, as I have been preoccupied and getting the camera out hasn't been top priority lately.

    Here is the damage the failure caused.

    I reject your reality and substitute my own!

  11. #211
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    3,255
    You have had some bad luck there mate ...my mod still going strong tho.
    Rock n Rolla !

  12. #212
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    San Diego, California
    Posts
    507
    Update: The castle creations 10 amp bec failed and sent 22 volts through the whole system, which is what fried the receiver. I am no longer going to buy from castle. I will send the bec in and sell the replacement, along with the fried receiver. When it had 22 volts coursing through the electronics it managed to fry a 5645mg servo along with it. I promptly yelled many things that I cannot type here and went looking for a new single servo. I settled on the airtronics: www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWDH9 This thing is a monster!!! I somehow got it for 98$ and got an axial 6061-t6 cnc machined arm to connect it to my HR steering assembly: http://www.ebay.com/itm/271195066534...84.m1439.l2649 I realized what I have been missing when I took it out for a run today. I still have the stock steering assembly, which is like cooked spaghetti with this servo and HD spring. The transit time is unbeleivable and I had to set the endpoints to 86% because the the servo can travel further than the car can. I also had problems with my hitec servo cases break where the screws go to the chassis, so I made small cover plates out of scrap aluminum and a 1/8th inch metal bit. The idea is to spread the force of the servo turning over a larger area to prevent it from breaking. I set the internal bec to 6.0 volts and let it go, I even tried to make it brown out, but I couldn't; it's very efficient for it's size. Earlier today I was out on the motorcycle and saw a radioshack.... yeah, I had to. I came out with a 35v 4700 (farad I think it is) electrolytic capacitor. I wired it in and WOW is it punchy now. I have el cheapo batteries that cannot be named here and they are incredible now. Now I am thinking of getting another capacitor and putting the two in the spare servo slot. Does anyone know if one or two lengths of 20awg high strand wire would be enough to run the capacitors a couple of inches to the esc? If not I have plenty of 12awg high strand to do it. It took 10 minutes from turning the soldering iron on to putting the strain relief on the capacitor, and the hardest part was cutting the insulation on the wires. The rest of the car is flawless and everything is working as it should!


    I reject your reality and substitute my own!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •