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  1. #1
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    First run in the new summit

    took my son out with his new Chanukah gift today for his first time. took a few minutes for him to get the hhang of it, but then he was driving it around and picking it up by himself. Pretty impressed he got it so quick. Running in training mode, no problems so far.

    I did have to take the steering horn off the servo before we ran because it wouldn't go straight even with the steering trim maxxed to one side. Didn't expect that really from a ready to run.

    Also really didn't expect non adjustable steering rods. Any options for those? Looks like only option is 30 plus dollars? Its not like I can't get it to go straight, but there isn't as much adjustment as I'd like.

    As for the steering, I think I read there are some bearings you can get for the steering arms as it uses bushings or something? is that correct?

    and finally, what would happen if I use the LVC lipo setting with the stock battery? would that cause it to cutoff at the wrong times?

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Sometimes there needs to be some adjustment for a RTR... for some it is even worse. There are other brands that you basically have to tear it completely down because everything is so out of adjustment.

    Traxxas has adjustable rods as well as GPM... either stainless or titanium for the GPM - not aluminum.
    There is quite a bit of adjustment available in stock form. If you want to adjust toe, move both pillow balls in or out.

    Bearings for the steering would replace the bushings that are in the servo saver...

    If you use a NiMh in LiPo mode, your run times are going to be very short.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie Neutron View Post
    Sometimes there needs to be some adjustment for a RTR... for some it is even worse. There are other brands that you basically have to tear it completely down because everything is so out of adjustment.

    Traxxas has adjustable rods as well as GPM... either stainless or titanium for the GPM - not aluminum.
    There is quite a bit of adjustment available in stock form. If you want to adjust toe, move both pillow balls in or out.

    Bearings for the steering would replace the bushings that are in the servo saver...

    If you use a NiMh in LiPo mode, your run times are going to be very short.
    the balls are the ones you replace with metal ones right? I don't need to adjust toe, I need to be able to adjust the length of the steering rods.

    My LST2 was ready to go out of the box. I didn't expect to have to pull the servo out. figured I could adjust the steering linkages. in 25 years, never had an rc car that didn't have adjustable steering linkages. But whatever, the kid loves it so that's all that matters.

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Are you talking about the hollow balls?
    I am talking about the pillow balls.

    Pillow ball


    Hollow ball


    Why do you want to adjust the steering rods?


    I did not have to do anything to mine... pulled it out charged it up and ran it.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  5. #5
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    Because as I said above, even when turning the steering trim all the way to one side, the wheels still weren't straight. The GPM rods might work, but likely I'll just deal and get the metal balls and green turnbuckles as the kid will make me get him a gravedigger body soon anyway.

    do you know the part for the bearings for the steering? are they definately bushings in there?

  6. #6
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    TRA 5114 5x8x2.5
    You'll need 1 package. Comes 2/pkg

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Daddykins has the right part number.

    There is more than one way to adjust the steering.
    1) turn on the radio and the RC
    2) center the trim on the radio
    3) remove the servo horn from the servo
    -- there are tools included with the RC to do this
    4) move the servo saver cross bar perpendicular to the front skid plate
    5) reattach servo horn

    Make sure that your toe settings are even on both sides. If they are not, it will pull to one side or the other.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  8. #8
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    of course, but you shouldn't have to take the servo horn off on a brand new ready to run vehicle and as I've said, in 25 years, never once has a vehicle not had adjustable steering rods. but anyway, steering is adjusted, we just did run number 2 in the park. now I just need to get more batteries.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie Neutron View Post
    Daddykins has the right part number.

    There is more than one way to adjust the steering.
    1) turn on the radio and the RC
    2) center the trim on the radio
    3) remove the servo horn from the servo
    -- there are tools included with the RC to do this
    4) move the servo saver cross bar perpendicular to the front skid plate
    5) reattach servo horn

    Make sure that your toe settings are even on both sides. If they are not, it will pull to one side or the other.

  9. #9
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    without starting a new thread, the hollow balls go in the rod plastic rod ends right, just pop out the plastic and put in the steel hollow balls?

    so what do these do?

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXXKL5&P=OW

  10. #10
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    Those goes into the knuckles to keep slop at minimal by being threaded instead of the clip on pivot ball caps

  11. #11
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    so those are used instead of the metal balls at the end of the a-arms?

  12. #12
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    Steel hollow balls replace plastic hollow balls in toe links & pushrods(2 balls/rod)

    A arms still need pivot balls to use with the stock pivot ball caps or replace with the 7033X
    Some people get aluminum knuckles instead because it comes with adjustable caps to hold the pivot ball in place with less slop
    The metal ball at the end of A arms are pivot ball and those will stay there always

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