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  1. #41
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    If you're crawling it will be more like 2.5-3 hours from what I've read by a few members that use them.
    Tekin powered Summit

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmy1971 View Post
    If you're crawling it will be more like 2.5-3 hours from what I've read by a few members that use them.
    Yep, that's what Tom said. In high gear it will go for 45 minutes, in low gear it will go for a few hours.

    I am pumped to get home and get these nimh batteries charged and run over my four little girls jk. At least i will have a few days playing around with the nimh's until my lipos get here. I think i will be done spending money for a week or so lol. Including the onyx 245 charger and the 8000mah lipos, that puts me at 250.00 and i havent even driven the summit yet ha



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  3. #43
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by his grace View Post
    Hold on! The onyx charger does come with the correct adapter, i checked before i bought it. I thought you were talking about the new lipo batteries i ordered from spc racing.

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    Yes, the charger has ONE charge lead with a Traxxas male connector. However, it is a dual charger, so to charge TWO batteries you'll need another charge lead with another Traxxas male connector.

    Since Tom has almost certainly run the new 8000s in his own yellow Summit, as well as the outgoing 30C/8200s, the 20C/8000s, and possibly the 12C/8000s (going years back in time now), I think he has a firm grasp on what will fit. I run the 30C/8200s and the 20C/8000s almost exclusively.
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  4. #44
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    8k mAh?
    In crawl mode I would not be surprised with closer to 2 hour run times!

    SPC is a great company all around... great people, great service, great products, great prices!


    EDIT:
    PC glitch again... for some reason this happens to me every once in a while. I view the thread, see a post which I assume is the last post (post #40) then respond only to find posts between mine and the "last post".
    hmmmm
    Last edited by Jimmie Neutron; 12-11-2012 at 04:35 PM.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by ksb51rl View Post
    Yes, the charger has ONE charge lead with a Traxxas male connector. However, it is a dual charger, so to charge TWO batteries you'll need another charge lead with another Traxxas male connector.

    Since Tom has almost certainly run the new 8000s in his own yellow Summit, as well as the outgoing 30C/8200s, the 20C/8000s, and possibly the 12C/8000s (going years back in time now), I think he has a firm grasp on what will fit. I run the 30C/8200s and the 20C/8000s almost exclusively.
    Well this one came with two



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  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie Neutron View Post
    8k mAh?
    In crawl mode I would not be surprised with closer to 2 hour run times!

    SPC is a great company all around... great people, great service, great products, great prices!


    EDIT:
    PC glitch again... for some reason this happens to me every once in a while. I view the thread, see a post which I assume is the last post (post #40) then respond only to find posts between mine and the "last post".
    hmmmm
    I agree

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  7. #47
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by his grace View Post
    Well this one came with two

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    Well good deal! It lists one of three different connectors. Were there other charge leads too?
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 12-11-2012 at 06:49 PM.
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  8. #48
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    The summit is one of those vehicles that must be run the way its INTENDED to be run, not the way you THINK it should be run. I run the 8200mah SPC packs and get 2 hours run time with a mix of high and low gear, trail running and crawling. Tom and I went for a "summit hike" this past summer when he came up to visit and we hiked for literally 2 hours before LCV kicked in.
    That onyx 245 charger will do you just fine. Its a 5 amp charger so it will take about 1 hour 45 minutes to charge your packs. Thats MUCH better then a single charger that would take the same amount of time for EACH battery.

    FYI: The process described for adjusting the servos is wrong. Thats how you centre the servo horns. But it wont likely stop the humming noise youll hear as they lightly fight against each other when the truck is sitting still. To stop that, you need to use the wrench in the tool kit to adjust the arm that connects the servo HORN to the steering ARM. Its threaded, just pick one side and turn it slowly until the humming stops. Once you do it, it makes perfect sense.

    Some of your questions were never answered from your original post. First, even if your truck DOESNT have LVC built into the ESC (lipo mode) you can go on ebay and buy whats called and LVA (low voltage alarm) for like $5... they make a loud beeping sound when the pack hits the preset levels. The LVA ESC is easier, but if you dont have it, your not out of luck and you dont HAVE to buy a new ESC.

    Once you get your batteries and everything, take the time to properly break in the motor. The titan 775 is an excellent motor (unlike its 550 size cousin). It lasts a LONG time if its broken in and cared for properly. Tom from SPC has been running the same titan in his Yellow summit FOREVER and his was always faster than my dewalt powered summit.

    If you find that the summit isnt scratching the itch you may feel when running with your other RC buddies and E-Revo will be the next truck you should look at. Likely, its the one your wife should have bought. My guess is your local hobby store didnt really listen to her. You will quickly find MOST employees at MOST LHS's are not very well informed, especially when it comes to traxxas vehicles. If you have a question, ask HERE first, then go your LHS and TELL them what you want. If you ask youll get answers like you got about the lipos... WRONG answers. I have to admit though, I ULTRA-respect your wife for buying an RC like a summit. They aint cheap... she REALLY wanted to make you happy. Have her call my wife if you dont mind.

    Also, just something to ponder. An RC that does 60mph on the street infront of your house is one FAST RC. Most people GREATLY over estimate the speed of their RC's. Guys will brag constantly about their truck that does 60 or 70. What you learn quickly after putting an actual GPS on the vehicle is that its really not going THAT fast. Just because a manufacture claims a certain peed on the box doesnt mean thats how fast it goes when you pull it out. Most of the time that requires alot of extra parts and modification to go that fast.The summit does just over 20 mph in high gear... not super fast. But more than enough to get you into trouble on the trails.
    Pede, Summit,
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  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie Neutron View Post
    As long as they fit in the battery compartment, they have 2S voltage (8.4v max), and at least 3000mAh; you can run them in a Summit.
    any particular reason for a minimum of 3000mah? i run 2400mah nicd's all the time, i even ran some old 1500mah packs one time on a really long haul.

  10. #50
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    I think his point was that anything less than 3000 will give you lower run times than stock. The summit doesnt REQUIRE 3000mah... but you have to remember with lower MAH you get lower AMP ratings for the pack. The summit does work the packs pretty hard so I dont think its ideal to go below at least the stock pack specs. The reason you feel an improvement in performance when you switch to lipo is not because you actually have more voltage (you dont). Its because the stock packs arent supply enough amps to the power system... the lipos can so you get all the the system wants.
    Pede, Summit,
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  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by pavmentsurfer View Post
    FYI: The process described for adjusting the servos is wrong. Thats how you centre the servo horns. But it wont likely stop the humming noise youll hear as they lightly fight against each other when the truck is sitting still. To stop that, you need to use the wrench in the tool kit to adjust the arm that connects the servo HORN to the steering ARM. Its threaded, just pick one side and turn it slowly until the humming stops. Once you do it, it makes perfect sense.
    The video I linked has worked for me in the past.




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  12. #52
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    Yup, thats a good link. I was commenting on the written description near the top of page 1.
    Pede, Summit,
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  13. #53
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    Hey guys, daggumit, I have the charged packs in, kids are watching, dogs is wagging his tail, I have a crap eating grin on my face, and the dang summit's esc light stays red. I did everything by the book. Turn on the remote, plug in the batteries, push the button on the esc and hold it till you decide what mode you want it in. Whether it is one red blink, two red blinks, or three red blinks, when I release the button, the lcd stays red. I can move the car but its sketchy and reverse doesnt work all the time. ARGGGG help me

  14. #54
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    Well, is it normal for the summit when traveling forward and then stop and it takes two time trying to go in reverse. Its pretty consistant. If I try to go in reverse, it only works when done a second time after going forward. Is that normal?

  15. #55
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    Okay it seems to be running good, but the esc light stays red. And it takes me pushing the trigger forward two times for the summit to go in reverse.

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  16. #56
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    Your first push forward applies the brakes. Second push applies reverse
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  17. #57
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    Once is brake, Twice is reverse.

    Edit: Arghhh! Darn ninja posters!
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  18. #58
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    Thats normal. Its to stop the car from going into reverse while its still moving forward (which is death to the drivetrain). So you have to put forward to stop, release, then push forward again for reverse. Castle ESC's even have a built in safety where if the vehicle is rolling at all, it cant be put into reverse. Which is annoying on a hill.

    Question, does your ESC say "low voltage detection" on the very front of it below the on/off button in little writing? If it doesnt, you DONT have the lipo version of the ESC in which case you simply need to get the $5 LVA I mentioned above.
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  19. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by pavmentsurfer View Post
    Thats normal. Its to stop the car from going into reverse while its still moving forward (which is death to the drivetrain). So you have to put forward to stop, release, then push forward again for reverse. Castle ESC's even have a built in safety where if the vehicle is rolling at all, it cant be put into reverse. Which is annoying on a hill.

    Question, does your ESC say "low voltage detection" on the very front of it below the on/off button in little writing? If it doesnt, you DONT have the lipo version of the ESC in which case you simply need to get the $5 LVA I mentioned above.
    Yes it does say that. But these are fully charged batteries. Could it be because they were warm coming off the charger that would cause the light to stay red instead of green?

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  20. #60
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    To change the LED to green, turn the transmitter and truck on, then hold the ESC power button for more than 10 seconds. You'll hear tones and the LED will turn green, indicating Low Voltage Detection is enabled. Do not do that unless running LiPos. LVD should not be used with NiMH packs.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 12-11-2012 at 08:43 PM.
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  21. #61
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    You should have had something like this in your manual:
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post5157583
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  22. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie Neutron View Post
    You should have had something like this in your manual:
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post5157583
    Oh, so with nimh batteries it should stay red?

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  23. #63
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Correct.
    Red = NiMh
    Green = LiPo
    The switch is not automatic, you have to do that manually.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  24. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie Neutron View Post
    Correct.
    Red = NiMh
    Green = LiPo
    The switch is not automatic, you have to do that manually.
    Thank you for that! I can sleep tonight

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  25. #65
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    Man, this beast is awesome, I love it!!!!! I thank all of you, Jimmie, KSB, pavement surfer, mayberry kid, for all your support and wisdom. I am so pumped that I can be driving this beast at night time

  26. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie Neutron View Post
    Correct.
    Red = NiMh
    Green = LiPo
    The switch is not automatic, you have to do that manually.

    So i guess that the nimh dont need a low current alarm?
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  27. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by his grace View Post
    So i guess that the nimh dont need a low current alarm?
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    That is correct, as soon as you notice a drastic decline in speed or when your led lights start dimming/shutting off under throttle that's the time to stop.


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  28. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by happymachinist View Post
    That is correct, as soon as you notice a drastic decline in speed or when your led lights start dimming/shutting off under throttle that's the time to stop.


    Sent from my iPhone using autocorrect
    Ok thank you. I ran it for a bit out on the street. In high gear it seemed fast enough for me even though i understand its not meant for speed. I brought it back in and unplugged the batteries and charged them again. Once the onyx charger alerted me that they were charged again, i unhooked them from the charger. I am guessing thats okay to do, meaning, to charge them after every use even if its for only five minutes of play?

    One other thing, listening to ksb, i checked my steering servos after i turned it on, and with the truck sitting there i didnt hear any noise, sometimes a little crackle but thats it. But i turned the truck over and looked at the linkage and its not all exactly ninety degrees. The horns and arms are off, but steering felt fine and the servos aren't fighting each other, will i be okay in letting sleeping dogs lie or should i do the adjustments?

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  29. #69
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    hey grace, did you get those tires and steering linkage all lined up?
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  30. #70
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    Don't charge the batteries again until they've discharged enough to do so. Usually once your LVD has kicked in, then charge them. Doing it after every 5 min run is not good for them. If youre not going to be using your Lipos for a few weeks + after running, charge/discharge them to around 3.8v per cell. for storage.

    Yeah with the LVD on your esc, connect your batteries up, then hold the esc's button down for like 10+ seconds until it beeps and the light turns to green, this indicates it's in LIPO battery mode with LVD enabled.

    I wouldn't stresses about too much else just go out an enjoy it . always make sure you switch on your Transmitter before the car and turn off the trans last when finished using it.
    PHOENIX Bandit,Summit,Funny Car,Darkrayne Rustler

  31. #71
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    You can also get some awesome after market wheels/tyres for the Summit! see below - awesome for sand/mud/snow etc

    PHOENIX Bandit,Summit,Funny Car,Darkrayne Rustler

  32. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by davyjones'_fleet View Post
    hey grace, did you get those tires and steering linkage all lined up?


    You can see here that the servo horns don't line up and that my steering bar isn't exactly perpendicular to the body of the summit. But i have absolutely no servo noise, nothing is fighting itself. And the car for now runs straight, or straight enough for me. What do yall think?

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  33. #73
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    I'm not sure but mine came aligned very well from factory

    I would be more worried about the small servos that control the idiffs and gears anyway
    What's a coffee if it aint Irish

  34. #74
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    I think leave well enough alone - i didnt have to do it on mine!
    PHOENIX Bandit,Summit,Funny Car,Darkrayne Rustler

  35. #75
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    Here is a pic of my rear tires. Is it normal or okay the they point inward?


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  36. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stach35 View Post
    Don't charge the batteries again until they've discharged enough to do so. Usually once your LVD has kicked in, then charge them. Doing it after every 5 min run is not good for them. If youre not going to be using your Lipos for a few weeks + after running, charge/discharge them to around 3.8v per cell. for storage.

    Yeah with the LVD on your esc, connect your batteries up, then hold the esc's button down for like 10+ seconds until it beeps and the light turns to green, this indicates it's in LIPO battery mode with LVD enabled.

    I wouldn't stresses about too much else just go out an enjoy it . always make sure you switch on your Transmitter before the car and turn off the trans last when finished using it.
    Thank you Stach, very good advice.

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  37. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by TQi View Post
    I'm not sure but mine came aligned very well from factory

    I would be more worried about the small servos that control the idiffs and gears anyway
    Okay, how can you tell if the diff servo and gears is out of line?

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  38. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by TQi View Post
    I'm not sure but mine came aligned very well from factory

    I would be more worried about the small servos that control the idiffs and gears anyway
    Does this look about right?



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  39. #79
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stach35 View Post
    Don't charge the batteries again until they've discharged enough to do so. Usually once your LVD has kicked in, then charge them. Doing it after every 5 min run is not good for them. If youre not going to be using your Lipos for a few weeks + after running, charge/discharge them to around 3.8v per cell. for storage.

    Yeah with the LVD on your esc, connect your batteries up, then hold the esc's button down for like 10+ seconds until it beeps and the light turns to green, this indicates it's in LIPO battery mode with LVD enabled.

    I wouldn't stresses about too much else just go out an enjoy it . always make sure you switch on your Transmitter before the car and turn off the trans last when finished using it.
    Charging NiMh after a short run does not hurt anything.
    LVD is not going to kick in... they are NIMH!

    Quote Originally Posted by his grace View Post
    Okay, how can you tell if the diff servo and gears is out of line?

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    The manual has pictures as to how the micro servos are supposed to look.
    Personally, I elevate the RC then shift the servos. If they click into location quickly without much buzzing, I consider them to be in good adjustment. Also, while you are doing this; realize that you may need to rotate the tires to get them to click into location.
    Last edited by Jimmie Neutron; 12-12-2012 at 09:55 AM.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  40. #80
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    Yeah you should be moving very very slowly when you lock diffs or change gears

    Just make sure the micro servos don't buzz when you use them, if they do, re-adjust them or they'll eventually burn out and die because the buzzing means they're overworking.. and I know some beg to differ but the 2065 micro servos are easy to kill in my opinion
    What's a coffee if it aint Irish

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