My wife bought me a Summit.....

[happymachinist]

I think leave well enough alone - i didnt have to do it on mine!

I think this is more not so good advice. Between my summit and 3 others that friends purchased they all needed adjusted.



A buddy had one out of alignment this far!! IMO not worth risking for the 5-10mins it takes to check and adjust.


Sent from my iPhone using autocorrect

[ksb51rl]

^^^ Agreed 100%.

[his grace]

I think this is more not so good advice. Between my summit and 3 others that friends purchased they all needed adjusted.



A buddy had one out of alignment this far!! IMO not worth risking for the 5-10mins it takes to check and adjust.


Sent from my iPhone using autocorrect

Okay, i will undo the screw that holds those two together and see if my alignment is off.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[Jimmie Neutron]

As far as alignment:
The rear tires are supposed to point in a bit when looked at from the top.
The front tires are supposed to point out a bit when looked at from the top.
Both should point in or out the same on each side.

To adjust, turn the turnbuckle... not to be confused with the push rod.

[his grace]

As far as alignment:
The rear tires are supposed to point in a bit when looked at from the top.
The front tires are supposed to point out a bit when looked at from the top.
Both should point in or out the same on each side.

To adjust, turn the turnbuckle... not to be confused with the push rod.

Okay, thank you

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[Jimmie Neutron]

Just be sure to adjust the steering servos before you try to align the front. That servo saver cross bar needs to be perpendicular to the skid plate in order to have the same amount of steering left and right.
It took some adjusting and modification to the links, but I did get my servos to be at 90° angles. I ended up needing to shave off a mm or two from the plastic ends so that the metal turnbuckle could thread in far enough. If you do this, be sure to remove the same amount from both ends... I used a drill to rotate the end with the turnbuckle (like a lathe) and a sharp utility knife.

[pavmentsurfer]

Just my opinion, but if the servos arent fighting each other at all and your getting full steering left to right I wouldnt stress alot about the steering servos. Like has been said, make sure the shift and lock servos dont buzz when using them, they do burn out easy. Ive never burned one but I adjusted mine so they arent really working that hard.

Your rear wheels should point in just slightly. If they are straight ahead its fine too. You dont want them pointing out though. Pointing in is call "toe in" Pointing out is called "toe out" (at least thats what its called in the snowmobile world)
I prefer to have my fronts at straight as possible. If not straight I prefer to have them pointed in just slightly. Pointing them in (toe in) will cause slightly lazier handling (only noticeable at speed), pointing out will case faster, twitchier handling at speed. When crawling im not sure that little bit of difference will be very noticeable.

Nimh and Lipo batteries do NOT have memory effects. Then can be run and charged from any state. However, you should not run a nimh pack immediatly after charging and you should not charge it immediatly after running. It needs to cool down Before you run or charge it. A lipo can be charged and run immediately... no waiting. But, a lipo must be stored at approximately 3.8 volts per cell... not full, not empty. Thats very important if its going to sit for more than a few days.

[his grace]

Just my opinion, but if the servos arent fighting each other at all and your getting full steering left to right I wouldnt stress alot about the steering servos. Like has been said, make sure the shift and lock servos dont buzz when using them, they do burn out easy. Ive never burned one but I adjusted mine so they arent really working that hard.

Your rear wheels should point in just slightly. If they are straight ahead its fine too. You dont want them pointing out though. Pointing in is call "toe in" Pointing out is called "toe out" (at least thats what its called in the snowmobile world)
I prefer to have my fronts at straight as possible. If not straight I prefer to have them pointed in just slightly. Pointing them in (toe in) will cause slightly lazier handling (only noticeable at speed), pointing out will case faster, twitchier handling at speed. When crawling im not sure that little bit of difference will be very noticeable.

Nimh and Lipo batteries do NOT have memory effects. Then can be run and charged from any state. However, you should not run a nimh pack immediatly after charging and you should not charge it immediatly after running. It needs to cool down Before you run or charge it. A lipo can be charged and run immediately... no waiting. But, a lipo must be stored at approximately 3.8 volts per cell... not full, not empty. Thats very important if its going to sit for more than a few days.

Man, thanks again pavement for your wisdom. The problem i see in the future is that my onyx charger does not have a depletion mode. When you say that i should keep my lipos around 3.8 volts per cell, should i just watch my digital read out on the onyx charger and unplug the battery when it reaches 3.8?
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[TQi]

Yes you should if you aren't going to use them for a while, I remember I was going to get that charger but there's no discharge setting

Pavment surfer, how did you adjust each micro servo individually?

[pavmentsurfer]

The only way to adjust the micro servos is to use the servo horn spline and get it as close as possible. Just pop the screw out, carefully remove the complete assembly and rotate it one spline if necessary. Make sure you test that it still operates the locks or shifts completely after adjustment. Sometimes one spline is too much and they wont work correctly so you just have to put up with them buzzing. I believe the ball cup end of the actuation rods is also threaded so you can adjust them a bit that way too.

his grace:
You can either watch the read out or, some chargers have a voltage cut off setting OR MAH cut off setting for charging. Meaning the charger will stop at a specified voltage or MAH level. If your charger has this function you can set it to stop when the pack gets to around %60 of its capacity (generally around 3.8 volts per cell, but you can also measure it by MAH).
So if you have a 5000mah pack you would run it down to the LVC on your charger then put approximately 3000mah back in and stop... that should be close to 3.8 vpc or %60 capacity, which is safe for storage.

[TQi]

Sounds just about as fun as shimming the diffs lol


Edit: the micro servos seem perfectly fine although I still don't trust them, steering servos are definitely fighting each other

[Piranha-z]

He bought the Onyx245 charger if I remember correctly for an earlier post. The reason I remember is because I bought that one and then figured out it didn't have a couple of the options that I wanted like a discharge feature and a storage feature. Luckily I was able to send it back and got a full refund (minus shipping) and bought one that had the features I wanted.

I could have watched the read-out as it charged, but I like working on other things in the shop while they are charging

[TQi]

Yeah, I usually only run mine down to 3.85 or 3.75 anyway

1 1/2 - 2 hours is nuts but I know a place I might even want more time with the summit

[his grace]

The only way to adjust the micro servos is to use the servo horn spline and get it as close as possible. Just pop the screw out, carefully remove the complete assembly and rotate it one spline if necessary. Make sure you test that it still operates the locks or shifts completely after adjustment. Sometimes one spline is too much and they wont work correctly so you just have to put up with them buzzing. I believe the ball cup end of the actuation rods is also threaded so you can adjust them a bit that way too.

his grace:
You can either watch the read out or, some chargers have a voltage cut off setting OR MAH cut off setting for charging. Meaning the charger will stop at a specified voltage or MAH level. If your charger has this function you can set it to stop when the pack gets to around %60 of its capacity (generally around 3.8 volts per cell, but you can also measure it by MAH).
So if you have a 5000mah pack you would run it down to the LVC on your charger then put approximately 3000mah back in and stop... that should be close to 3.8 vpc or %60 capacity, which is safe for storage.

Thank you pavement and the others who chimed on this. Checking my alignment now.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[his grace]

Dadgummit!!!!

I am venting. So it seems like all I am really doing when I get home from work is checking to make sure all is normal with my summit for the last couple of days. Well, I take the body shell off and just start looking around, and decide I guess I can turn the lvd alarm off because I am running nimh for now until my lipos come in. Well, I push the esc button for a second, then push it again and hold it for ten seconds, I thought this would turn the lvd off, but nooooooooooo, now it just blinks red and green. UUUUUGGGHHHH and nothing is running, cant turn the steering or anything.

Good Gosh! cant a man just play with his darn toy? This is truly getting frustrating. So what the heck is going on? Please tell me I dont have to wait till my batteries discharge to plug them back in and try to turn off the lvd? I dont have a darn depleting charger because I ... lack patience and went and bought the onyx 245 which doesnt deplete batteries. Maybe I am just mad, long day at the hospital... and ... I want to play.

Please help

[his grace]

Holy cow, not sure how this kid figured it out, but it worked flawlessly:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oiYypUV9sIg



Its running like a charm again

[ksb51rl]

Quick answer:
Plug ONE battery into the BEC side of the ESC - it's the connector with the tag on the wires.
Press the ON button until the LEDs power up (about ½ second?)
Release the ON button and immediately press it again (the ESC LED should still be lit) and hold it for over 10 seconds to disable the LVD.

My Summit's EVX-2 does not have LVD, but I had a friend follow these steps and it worked for him.

[his grace]

Quick answer:
Plug ONE battery into the BEC side of the ESC - it's the connector with the tag on the wires.
Press the ON button until the LEDs power up (about ½ second?)
Release the ON button and immediately press it again (the ESC LED should still be lit) and hold it for over 10 seconds to disable the LVD.

My Summit's EVX-2 does not have LVD, but I had a friend follow these steps and it worked for him.

Thank you very much

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[his grace]

Well good deal! It lists one of three different connectors. Were there other charge leads too?

Sorry, missed this post, yes there are to other pairs of connectors, not sure to what kind of batteries but they are included.

[his grace]

Okay, after checking it out again, the servo saver cross bar is perpendicular in this picture, and the horns point towards the back a few degrees. But i hear absolutely no servo contention and my steering seems fine. So it looks i am going to leave that the way it is.



Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[his grace]

That steering trim is pretty cool. I have realized that my summit drives straight with the steering trim knob moved about a quarter of the way around. Then, looking at the the servo saver cross bar, its perpendicular, as oppossed to earlier yesterday when I posted the first picture and it wasnt perpendicular, but I also had not driven it yet and had time to adjust it.

Since I am here, is there a proper way to break the motor in? Do I need to put it on stage 3/training mode for a bit?

[Jimmie Neutron]

Looks like you have the servos lined up great. As long as there is no humming at rest, I think you nailed it!

If you run a couple of D batteries through the motor it will break in.
I just drove slow and easy for the first run....

[TQi]

Yeah that should work, or drive around in low gear for a half hour or so

[ksb51rl]

Traxxas recommends driving it slowly and steadily for a set of packs or so. You could also turn it upside down and turn the throttle trim up until the motor starts moving at a good pace and let it go for a while. Resistance is not necessary but consistence is. Lastly you could use the water break-in method where you dunk just the motor in a container of water and connect it to a 4-cell pack. This will certainly prematurely wear the non-replaceable brushes but will break in the motor quickest and most completely.

[pavmentsurfer]

Once you get that motor broken in, I honestly think you need to stop worrying about the truck and just go run it. All this fiddling isn't absolutely necessary, certainly not in the first few runs. Get out and have some fun with the darn thing. It's super durable and ready to be abused.

[his grace]

Looks like you have the servos lined up great. As long as there is no humming at rest, I think you nailed it!

If you run a couple of D batteries through the motor it will break in.
I just drove slow and easy for the first run....

Okay, great, thank you.

Yeah that should work, or drive around in low gear for a half hour or so

Gotcha

Traxxas recommends driving it slowly and steadily for a set of packs or so. You could also turn it upside down and turn the throttle trim up until the motor starts moving at a good pace and let it go for a while. Resistance is not necessary but consistence is. Lastly you could use the water break-in method where you dunk just the motor in a container of water and connect it to a 4-cell pack. This will certainly prematurely wear the non-replaceable brushes but will break in the motor quickest and most completely.

Interesting. One day, I am will ask what the difference is between a brushed and brushless motor is. I know most of you all are scratching your heads and wondering why I dont just look up this info and read for myself. Honestly, I do, but for some reason the whole brushed vs brushless is still a little confusing. Anyways.

Once you get that motor broken in, I honestly think you need to stop worrying about the truck and just go run it. All this fiddling isn't absolutely necessary, certainly not in the first few runs. Get out and have some fun with the darn thing. It's super durable and ready to be abused.

Your right pav, I think I just get a little anxious about something this big, and its my first real RC car, I just want to make sure that I don't overlook something due to me being inpatient. I am usually a very impulsive guy, and I dont want to break something that could have been prevented.

Now that I feel like I have some of the basics out of the way that Jimmie and KSB informed me about before even attempting to run it, like checking the steering servos, and then TQi spoke about checking the transmission and tlock servos (which both seem to do fine, not real sure what I am looking for, but there isn't any buzzing, maybe a few clicks like that heard in the movie Predator while switching them, but then all that subsides, so it doesn't seem that there is a problem). The wheels seemed to be aligned properly, steering trim has been adjusted, and my 8000mah lipo's are on the way.

I admit, I am still ignorant on the subject of batteries. I am starting to understand, but if there is a link around here, that sure would be helpful. I understand that Mah describes the amount of water flowing through the garden house, and voltage is the amount of pressure behind the water? or is it the size of the water hose? lol. I would like to better understand how to take care of my batteries, due to the fact that it seems I may have purchased a charger (onyx 245) that will not benefit me the most, I am a little worried that I want be able to keep the health of the batteries at their optimum potential (do to not being able to deplete them).

So, if there is anyone here longwinded enough to explain these things, I am all ears.....eyes.

[Jimmie Neutron]

I apologize in advance for the length of this write up. However, I feel that it is important to have as much factual LiPo information as possible and to have it all in one location. Take it a step at a time and try not to become overwhelmed.
That being said...

LiPo 101
now in session


Rules
1) NEVER discharge below 3v/cell
2) NEVER charge above 4.2v/cell
3) NEVER puncture your pack
4) NEVER short out your pack
5) NEVER use a pack that has puffed
6) NEVER charge unattended
7) NEVER charge at a higher C rate than recommended
8) NEVER use a pack that has been over charged/discharged
9) ALWAYS check cell voltage before connecting your pack to anything
10) ALWAYS keep your LiPo pack well balanced

To calculate the charge rate of your pack
mAh x charge C rate / 1000 = charge amps
For example:
A 2200mah 20-40C pack that states a 2C charge rate.
2,200 x 2 / 1000 = 4.4
This battery pack can be charged at 4.4 amps.
- Please note that if no charge C rate is stated, 1C is standard.

To calculate the constant discharge rate of your pack
mAh x minimum discharge C rate / 1,000 = available amps
For example:
The same 2200mah 20-40C pack.
2,200 x 20 / 1000 = 44
This battery pack can consistently provide up to 44 amps.

To calculate the peak/burst discharge rate of your pack
mAh x maximum discharge C rate / 1,000 = available amps
For example:
Again, the same 2200mah 20-40C pack.
2,200 x 40 / 1000 = 88
This battery pack can provide a peak discharge rate of up to 88 amps.
Peak rates are limited in time... unfortunately, this amount of time does not have an industry standard. This is how a lot of inflated discharge ratings can be claimed. In my experience, honest retailers/manufactures of packs will list the constant discharge rating along with the burst discharge rating and not only the burst rating.

Ratings
When setting up your power system for your RC, make sure that the lower discharge C rate matches or beats the continuous amperage rating of the ESC. I try to beat it by at least 10%. This practice will provide you the most out of your system and it will also keep your batteries from working too hard. A LiPo should NEVER be warm... during use or charging. If it is, you are abusing the pack. Also, the less your pack has to work the longer it will last.


Parallel
Running two LiPo's in parallel will double run time and also your available amperage... which is handy for high demand systems. Some misinformation I have read about the discharge C rating of packs in parallel is that the rating of the pack doubles. This is not the case. The C-rating of a battery pack is a fixed parameter of that pack; well actually it is the cells within the pack that have the C rating. Connecting two packs in parallel does not change either pack as they still have the same specifications, however it does create a battery "system" with twice the effective C rating. The packs are the same, but the parallel system is now theoretically capable of discharging at twice the Amp rate. This is much like the cumulative capacity available when connecting two packs in parallel.

Series
Running two LiPo's in series will double voltage, therefore nearly doubling the speed of your RC. Capacity remains the same. The two packs ran in series MUST have the same capacity and discharge rate. They should be of the same brand as well as have the same amount of cycles on them.
Be prepared to gear down when increasing voltage on your power system.

Charging
There are many charging options out there... it can get really confusing really fast. The best advise I can give is to get the absolute best charger you can afford... your charge system is the backbone of your electric RC hobby, treat it as such. RC's will come and go, but your charge system will remain.

The following features are what I consider to be the absolute bare minimum for a charger... balance charging and a storage charge/discharge feature. Storage voltage is 3.85v/cell. If the charger cannot perform these tasks, look for another charger. If you are going to be charging multiple LiPo's at the same time or 10th scale or larger packs, I recommend getting a charger that is capable of at least 10 amps. Also, ANY half-decent charger can charge multiple LiPo's at a time. It does not require a dual or multi-charger to perform such a task. It only requires the right support equipment... I use a ParaBoard.



Here is what I have done...
this information might help with your decision

I use inexpensive batteries.
I have found them to be very reliable, extremely cost effective, and they have been proven to be under-rated; usually providing more mah and a higher discharge C rate than stated on the pack. SPC is a great brand that under promises and over delivers. There are others that claim extreme discharge ratings that are simply impossible with the technology that is available.

I use an iCharger 206B.
When I purchased the charger, I thought I would never use all 20 amps of its capability. Well, now I rarely charge at anything less than 20 amps lol. I have even considered selling it to get more amperage! I have performed hundreds of charge cycles with this charger and it handles the task without a single issue.
I highly recommend any charger in the iCharger line.

I built my own power supply.
I have ~$30 into my 24v 75a 1800watt power supply.
Sounds complicated, but it really is not that difficult. If you go this route, you are going to want a server power supply as they do not drop voltage when you are pulling amperage like a standard ATX PC power supply.
You can also purchase these pre-built.

I hope this information helps!!

Here are some links to some more:
http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...rger-vs-cooker
http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...charging-setup
http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...ply-Conversion
http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...ply-Conversion


I typed this up a while ago... not all of it may apply to you, but it is still good info.

[happymachinist]

Once you get that motor broken in, I honestly think you need to stop worrying about the truck and just go run it. All this fiddling isn't absolutely necessary, certainly not in the first few runs. Get out and have some fun with the darn thing. It's super durable and ready to be abused.

I agree we have been kinda overwhelming. I think your as close as you can be for not having done it before...the summit is far from a simple RC

Break in the motor and go out and play.

At worse you gotta replace a $20 servo. It's just the nickel and dime stuff can start to add up, that was the reason for my concern.

Good luck!



Sent from my iPhone using autocorrect

[his grace]

I apologize in advance for the length of this write up. However, I feel that it is important to have as much factual LiPo information as possible and to have it all in one location. Take it a step at a time and try not to become overwhelmed.
That being said...

LiPo 101
now in session


Rules
1) NEVER discharge below 3v/cell
2) NEVER charge above 4.2v/cell
3) NEVER puncture your pack
4) NEVER short out your pack
5) NEVER use a pack that has puffed
6) NEVER charge unattended
7) NEVER charge at a higher C rate than recommended
8) NEVER use a pack that has been over charged/discharged
9) ALWAYS check cell voltage before connecting your pack to anything
10) ALWAYS keep your LiPo pack well balanced

To calculate the charge rate of your pack
mAh x charge C rate / 1000 = charge amps
For example:
A 2200mah 20-40C pack that states a 2C charge rate.
2,200 x 2 / 1000 = 4.4
This battery pack can be charged at 4.4 amps.
- Please note that if no charge C rate is stated, 1C is standard.

To calculate the constant discharge rate of your pack
mAh x minimum discharge C rate / 1,000 = available amps
For example:
The same 2200mah 20-40C pack.
2,200 x 20 / 1000 = 44
This battery pack can consistently provide up to 44 amps.

To calculate the peak/burst discharge rate of your pack
mAh x maximum discharge C rate / 1,000 = available amps
For example:
Again, the same 2200mah 20-40C pack.
2,200 x 40 / 1000 = 88
This battery pack can provide a peak discharge rate of up to 88 amps.
Peak rates are limited in time... unfortunately, this amount of time does not have an industry standard. This is how a lot of inflated discharge ratings can be claimed. In my experience, honest retailers/manufactures of packs will list the constant discharge rating along with the burst discharge rating and not only the burst rating.

Ratings
When setting up your power system for your RC, make sure that the lower discharge C rate matches or beats the continuous amperage rating of the ESC. I try to beat it by at least 10%. This practice will provide you the most out of your system and it will also keep your batteries from working too hard. A LiPo should NEVER be warm... during use or charging. If it is, you are abusing the pack. Also, the less your pack has to work the longer it will last.


Parallel
Running two LiPo's in parallel will double run time and also your available amperage... which is handy for high demand systems. Some misinformation I have read about the discharge C rating of packs in parallel is that the rating of the pack doubles. This is not the case. The C-rating of a battery pack is a fixed parameter of that pack; well actually it is the cells within the pack that have the C rating. Connecting two packs in parallel does not change either pack as they still have the same specifications, however it does create a battery "system" with twice the effective C rating. The packs are the same, but the parallel system is now theoretically capable of discharging at twice the Amp rate. This is much like the cumulative capacity available when connecting two packs in parallel.

Series
Running two LiPo's in series will double voltage, therefore nearly doubling the speed of your RC. Capacity remains the same. The two packs ran in series MUST have the same capacity and discharge rate. They should be of the same brand as well as have the same amount of cycles on them.
Be prepared to gear down when increasing voltage on your power system.

Charging
There are many charging options out there... it can get really confusing really fast. The best advise I can give is to get the absolute best charger you can afford... your charge system is the backbone of your electric RC hobby, treat it as such. RC's will come and go, but your charge system will remain.

The following features are what I consider to be the absolute bare minimum for a charger... balance charging and a storage charge/discharge feature. Storage voltage is 3.85v/cell. If the charger cannot perform these tasks, look for another charger. If you are going to be charging multiple LiPo's at the same time or 10th scale or larger packs, I recommend getting a charger that is capable of at least 10 amps. Also, ANY half-decent charger can charge multiple LiPo's at a time. It does not require a dual or multi-charger to perform such a task. It only requires the right support equipment... I use a ParaBoard.



Here is what I have done...
this information might help with your decision

I use inexpensive batteries.
I have found them to be very reliable, extremely cost effective, and they have been proven to be under-rated; usually providing more mah and a higher discharge C rate than stated on the pack. SPC is a great brand that under promises and over delivers. There are others that claim extreme discharge ratings that are simply impossible with the technology that is available.

I use an iCharger 206B.
When I purchased the charger, I thought I would never use all 20 amps of its capability. Well, now I rarely charge at anything less than 20 amps lol. I have even considered selling it to get more amperage! I have performed hundreds of charge cycles with this charger and it handles the task without a single issue.
I highly recommend any charger in the iCharger line.

I built my own power supply.
I have ~$30 into my 24v 75a 1800watt power supply.
Sounds complicated, but it really is not that difficult. If you go this route, you are going to want a server power supply as they do not drop voltage when you are pulling amperage like a standard ATX PC power supply.
You can also purchase these pre-built.

I hope this information helps!!

Here are some links to some more:
http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...rger-vs-cooker
http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...charging-setup
http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...ply-Conversion
http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...ply-Conversion


I typed this up a while ago... not all of it may apply to you, but it is still good info.

Wow, good stuff. I have read it, and locked it in. I guess maybe i should take this onyx back and see if they will refund at the hobby shop.

Thank you for that write up. One last thing though, what does the "s" mean in 2s, 3s, 4s, and 5s?

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[Stach35]

The s is for Cell, e.g. 2s = 2 cell.

[ksb51rl]

The "S" is for "series".
The "P" is for "parallel.
The number is for number of cells.

Your 8000mAh packs are in a 2S2P configuration, or actually four 4000mAh 3.7-volt cells, 2 pairs in parallel to achieve 8000mAh (4000 + 4000) and then those "8000"s in series to achieve 7.4 Volts (2S).

Since a picture is worth a thousand words...


Imagine each blue block is a 4000mAh LiPo cell. All larger capacity packs are built this way. I'm not sure there are any cells made over 6500, and maybe not even that high in capacity. The picture is from an excellent website by BrianG, scriptasylum. Everybody should bookmark/favorite this site.

[Piranha-z]

Great site ksb51rl! Thanks for posting the link

One can never have too much knowledge in this area!

[his grace]

Excllent KSB, thank you

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[pavmentsurfer]

^^ That took me so long to figure out when I first started. Makes sense NOW... but my first few lipos were like a mysterious magical box that made everything better. But I had no idea what was inside. Now I know.

[Wolfslash16]

Wow, just thought I'd say, this thread is great! There is a TON of info here! I have this thread saved into my favorites bar! Keep the great info flowing guys!

[his grace]

Wow, just thought I'd say, this thread is great! There is a TON of info here! I have this thread saved into my favorites bar! Keep the great info flowing guys!

I agree, this has been a true blessing. Good knit of men on here willing to help.

[his grace]

Okay, quick scenario:

I have a few buddies with RC cars, but theirs are nitro cars. They keep talking mess, saying how they can do this and that. I agreed that they can beat me in a straight line, but I told them if I catch up to them I would run them over. Well, its come down to this, I offered a little competitive race.

Behind my house, is a draw, its about 15 feet down, full of grass, rocks, and whatever else may drift through there when it rains and water rushes through there. Its pretty steep. One of my buddies has an EMaxx, and it got stuck. The friend I will be competing against has a Team Losi Muggy and he has been talking a lot of mess. Saturday morning is when we will do it. He told me to make sure my batteries are charged, I told him to make sure he brings enough gas.

I am not putting a time restraint on the decent and climb, just whoever makes it out of the draw first, will have the true all terrain monster.

My question is: how do you post or upload a video. I want to post the video of it for the members here to see. I usually just go to tinipic.com to upload pics, but I dont believe I can do videos from there.

Any takers?

[jamann]

Photobucket has that ability


Sent using lipo power

[Jimmie Neutron]

So does Facebook... I upload my pics and videos to a locked (meaning only I can see it, or people I give the link to) folder and then after it is uploaded; you view the picture, right click, and select "copy image location". At this point you come back to the forum and select the third icon from the right; the one that says "image" when you hover over it, and paste your image location into the box in the popup, then click "ok". Then the picture will be shown like this:



More information:
http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...sting-Tutorial

[his grace]

Photobucket has that ability


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Thank you, I just signed up, and they also have an app for my droid razer, nice.

So does Facebook... I upload my pics and videos to a locked (meaning only I can see it, or people I give the link to) folder and then after it is uploaded; you view the picture, right click, and select "copy image location". At this point you come back to the forum and select the third icon from the right; the one that says "image" when you hover over it, and paste your image location into the box in the popup, then click "ok". Then the picture will be shown like this:



More information:
http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...sting-Tutorial

Thank you for the info, I dont use facebook, wifey and I decided we wanted to close that door. To many relationships in trouble because people dont know how to act on FB