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  1. #1
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    TRX 17mm hex thread size?

    Hi All,

    First post on this forum, so be gentle . . .

    Does anyone know the thread size for the Traxxas 17mm wheel hexes and stub axle?? Im thinking about getting some Nyloc nuts instead of the blue wheelnuts.

    When I first put the hexes on, I found the nuts on the left hand side came undone quite quickly due to the vibrations. So I started putting some threadloc on the nuts. This works fine, but its a real PAIN to get all the dried threadloc off when I take the wheels off.

    Just thinking it would be much easier to have a nyloc nut maybe with a spring washer behind it. Anyone know??

    Cheers,
    Pete


    Please watch the Language, including abbreviations.
    -ksb51rl
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 01-13-2010 at 11:22 PM.

  2. #2
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    I will attempt to get an answer later today. I assume the question is 1.00 or 1.25 mm?

    Edit: my digital caliper reads 5 mm for 4 threads, so 1.25 mm pitch.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 01-14-2010 at 12:08 AM.

  3. #3
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    Firstly, my apologies for use of language.
    Thanks for the thread size. 1.25mm sounds right, the hub is 11mm so I will try to get some nylocs from my local diy store.

    Thanks for your help, I will keep everyone posted on how we get on.

    cheers
    pete

  4. #4
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    The nominal size of screw or bolt is typically its major diameter, or the diameter at the crest of external threads. I measure this to be 12 mm on the Traxxas hubs.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by PH1
    Firstly, my apologies for use of language.
    Thanks for the thread size. 1.25mm sounds right, the hub is 11mm so I will try to get some nylocs from my local diy store.

    Thanks for your help, I will keep everyone posted on how we get on.

    cheers
    pete
    Pete welcome. Also alot of us use a quality 17MM socket to lock down on that locknut. The plastic tool is not sufficient. I have been using a Snap on 17mm socket for almost a year now and have not had one fall off yet.
    havnt failed I just found 1000 ways that wont work

  6. #6
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    I've never had a problem with either the wheel nuts coming loose or the plastic "wrench". That said, Snap-On is always a welcome addition to a tool- or pit-box. I went the easy route and bought a Craftsman deep 17 mm socket so I could use one of my "Binford" power tools for wheel removal and replacement.

    In researching for original question, I saw that the reviews on the usefulness and longevity of nylock nuts were mixed, at best.

    Thanks to RcPocketRocket for reminding one of his manners: Welcome to the forums, Pete.

  7. #7
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    I have not had any problems with the plastic "wrench" either nut where do you get hold of the snap on ..

    Thanks

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by ksb51rl
    I've never had a problem with either the wheel nuts coming loose or the plastic "wrench". That said, Snap-On is always a welcome addition to a tool- or pit-box. I went the easy route and bought a Craftsman deep 17 mm socket so I could use one of my "Binford" power tools for wheel removal and replacement.

    In researching for original question, I saw that the reviews on the usefulness and longevity of nylock nuts were mixed, at best.

    Thanks to RcPocketRocket for reminding one of his manners: Welcome to the forums, Pete.
    +1 same with me. I have never had an issue with the plastic tool, or losing wheel nuts.

  9. #9
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    Snap On tools is the Cadillac of tool manufacturers. They are found almost exclusively by private S.O. Tool truck drivers that visit the local automotive shops. Although I have a large rolling cabinet full of them from my days as an auto mechanic, I don't think I would buy them again. And I certainly would not buy them for RC work. They are too pricey for the basic sets they sell. A nice set of Craftsman tools from Sears, or Husky from Home Depot are more than nice enough, even for professional use. I actually carry a set of Stanley tools in my truck for doing home remodeling work when a socket and ratchet are needed. Snap On does make some specialty tools that are worth the price but that's on a as needed basis. Now that I'm out of the field, I have several broken sockets that I can't easily get warrantied. At least with Sears, you can just drive there, swap out the tool and leave.

    As for locknuts, is there enough threads sticking out to accept them? I have 14mm on mine so I'm curious about that. My Losi Blah Blah truck has 17mm and there is only a tiny bit of threads sticking out when fully locked down. I went the Locktite route simply because I didn't think a Nylock would bite on all the way.
    Phs 2 S-Maxx build- 24/54 gears. Can U say faster?

  10. #10
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    It's been fun. See ya.

  11. #11
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    Thanks all. When I had the problem, I had tightened the nuts with the plastic tool. Since then, I have found an old 17mm socket and ratchet. That plus locktite has been fine. I am a little reluctant to rely purely on the tightness of the wheelnut, hence I looked at nylocs. Unfortunately, all nylocs in M12 diameter are really wide, sothey won't fit. So I have found another solution which is to use shakeproof washers. I will try this and see how it goes.

    Thanks again al for your help.
    Pete

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    Could you elaborate a little?
    Phs 2 S-Maxx build- 24/54 gears. Can U say faster?

  13. #13
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    I am running a Rustler VXL with the 17mm wheel conversions on it. I have found blue loctite to be a pain so I now put teflon tape (the kind you put on a shower head threads to keep it from leaking) on all of my wheel hex nuts. I have not had a wheel come off and it is much easier to remove the wheel when needed. Hope that helps a bit.

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