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  1. #1
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    New member with question

    Hello all, have been reading a lot here and have learned a lot.
    Giving my son a VXL Stampede for Christmas (already have it) and have been researching and purchasing
    items and spare parts for it. Don't want him to break a part in the first day and be without the truck for
    a week waiting for a part.

    I have purchased the following items and was wondering what I might have missed as far as a
    "high failure rate" part.

    ST Racing Concepts Precision Alum Fr C-Hubs Slash 4X4 LXCSPP
    Traxxas Steering Blocks Left & Right Slash 4x4 LXYSP0
    Integy Steel 0.8 Spur Gear 54T Slash/Stampede 4X4 LXCTRG
    Traxxas Ball Bearings 6x12x4mm Revo LXHFS8
    Traxxas Ball Bearings 12x18x4mm Revo LXHFT1
    Traxxas Ball Bearings 5x8x2.5mm Revo LXHFS5
    Traxxas Ball Bearings 8x16x5mm Revo LXHFS9
    Traxxas Ball Bearings 10x15x4mm Revo LXHFT0
    Traxxas Ball Bearings 5x11x4mm Revo LXHFS7
    Traxxas Clear Gear Cover Slash 4X4 LXYSS1
    RC Screwz Stainless Steel Screw Kit Stampede VXL 4X4 LXAVKG
    Traxxas Silicon Grease E-Revo/Summit TRA1647
    Traxxas Grease White Lithium TRA5148
    HPI Pro Thread Lock HPIZ186
    Traxxas Silicone Dampener Oil LXJH30
    RPM Wide Front Bumper Stampede 4x4 Black RPM81042
    Traxxas Rod Ends and Hollow Ball Connectors TRA2742
    Onyx 245 Dual Output Charger
    7.4V 4000mAh 2S Cell 25C LiPo Battery Pack
    Integy LiPo Guard Med Battery Bag INTC22533BLACK
    Front/Rear A-Arms Blue Slash/Stampede 4x4 RPM 80705
    Front/Rear A-Arms Black Slash/Stampede 4x4 RPM 80702
    Traxxas Half Shafts Heavy Duty, Stampede 4x4 6850X
    ST Racing Aluminum Upper Shock Caps (4 pcs) ST2267R
    Heavy Duty Rear Stub Axles (2):Stampede 4x4 6853X
    Traxxas Heavy Duty Front Stub Axles Stampede 4X4 LXAVNP
    Traxxas Aluminum Rear Stub Axle Carrier LXYTH7
    Traxxas Nuts 4mm Flanged Nylon Locking (4) LXSHA1

    Thanks in advance for any advise anyone can give me.
    I actually can't wait for him to break a part so we can work on the truck together. :-)

    If this is a fairly complete list then I hope others can use it when they are starting out.

    Thanks,
    Nick

  2. #2
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    The weakest part of this truck is the drive shafts..
    Which I would recommend either Tekno or MIP
    http://www.teknorc.com/product-categ...ede-4x4-parts/
    RPM arms would be my next item, which you have..
    And a King Headz Motor mount http://www.rcboca.com/king-headz-sla...FSOnPAod5R4AzQ
    Would get Part 6893X Bearing adapter, aluminum to go with the motor mount.
    Also Aluminum shock caps are a good item, the plastic ones pop off to easily.
    The only thing I have broken is the Drive Hub, Part 6888.
    Taken a pretty good beating otherwise.
    Last edited by No One; 12-08-2012 at 07:13 PM.
    2x Stampede VXL
    Stampede 4x4

  3. #3
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    My high failure rate list
    -Drive shaft (MIP as recommended by No One)
    -A-arm (you already have it)
    -12mm hex for the wheel: get aluminum ones
    -6893 bearing adapter: get some TRA6893x for this (it goes in the slipper clutch)

    And the one you bought but I don't recommand: Integy Steel 0.8 Spur Gear 54T
    It might be okay because it's a steel one, but I bought a aluminum one and it wears off as fast as a bad diarrhea...

  4. #4
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    i wish i had extras like that and good thinking ahead i had mabey 10 mins of run time on mine when i hit a curb and broke the caster block now im down for a week trying to get parts

  5. #5
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    Don't use that metal spur it will wear out the pinion faster. also will just find the weakest part next to ruin. just get a couple more plastic spur gears. they are cheaper.
    Revenge 1/8 buggy

  6. #6
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    Wow, thanks everyone for your responses !
    No One/emman: Drive Shafts.... really I never picked up on that in my research... glad to know.... will get one of each. Not sure if I'll get the Big Bone or the M6's. Any suggestions?

    I was thinking about the bearing adapter... now I'll get one.

    emman/Onebad: Good to know about the steel spur gear, but it makes sense. I'll return it and get a few of the orig part unless there is a stronger plastic spur that would be better.

    Thanks again to all you for reading/responding to my list of parts !!


    Nick

  7. #7
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    Stock spurs are fine get the mip x-duties put them on my pede with a 2400kv never looked back. And pick up a extra set of links toe and camber they are cheap on flea bay and they were the first part I broke on my pede.
    Last edited by madscrapper85; 12-08-2012 at 07:50 PM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by madscrapper85 View Post
    Stock spurs are fine get the mip x-duties put them on my pede with a 2400kv never looked back.
    Those will work but would be better off with TeknoRC shafts.
    Alt-248 on the number pad = °

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    I have heard that the mip and teknos are compareable. Why are the teknos a better choice. I may need a stronger rear axle for my current build when and if I up the voltage...
    Sit down, buckle up, hold on, pay me...

  10. #10
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    As far as the drive shaft goes, would anyone recommend the following:

    http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr6755-...-stampede-4x4/

  11. #11
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    The only thing I don't like from my MIPs is that there's more moving part compared to TeknoRc and the dust gets EVERYWHERE. that makes them wear faster...
    As far as the drive shaft goes, would anyone recommend the following:

    http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr6755-...-stampede-4x4/
    also, I think the stock center drive shaft is perfectly fine, if you find a way to avoid small rocks from getting inside... (I did this center cover modification and it's awesome)


    Edit: the difference between MIP and Tekno is that Tekno need ProTrack a-arm to fit
    Last edited by emmanhello; 12-08-2012 at 08:57 PM.

  12. #12
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    Sweet Emman, sounds like a great mod.
    Do you know if the entire length of the carbon tube creates any excessive resistance on the shaft ?
    I might try that, but with only 1-2" of the shaft to seal the opening and possibly use epoxy around the tube to the chassis.

  13. #13
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    That's why this mod is great, the carbon tube don't touch the shaft at all (if you installed it correctly...)
    Here's some pic:
    http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/...ps924dd709.jpg
    http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/...psec1260a1.jpg

  14. #14
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    I have heard that the mip and teknos are compareable. Why are the teknos a better choice. I may need a stronger rear axle for my current build when and if I up the voltage...
    They both can handle the torque.
    The advantages I see with the TeknoRC offering:
    1. ONE version of the CVD's. No pin or pinless or is it keyed or keyless? (Two versions if you count the lightened outdrives which are 100% interchangeable with the standard ones. I don't.)
    2. Simple design. Less parts, less Loc-tite needed, less loss of parts.
    3. Lighter design. Doesn't make much of a difference in these overpowered trucks, but why overdesign if you don't have to?
    4. Less reported breakage. Much.
    Alt-248 on the number pad = °

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by emmanhello View Post
    My high failure rate list
    -Drive shaft (MIP as recommended by No One)
    -A-arm (you already have it)
    -12mm hex for the wheel: get aluminum ones
    -6893 bearing adapter: get some TRA6893x for this (it goes in the slipper clutch)
    emmanhello, can you provide a bit more info on the 12mm hex you mentioned.
    Is this the hex "nut" that goes over the pin on the axle that keeps the bearings in?

    Does this just help to stay on better with the allen lock pin or do they also keep more dirt out of the bearings ?
    I did a lot of reading, but this seems like an item that people are not in agreement on.

    These are the ones I am looking at.... is this what you would recommend ?
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCSGY&P=7

    Thanks,
    Nick

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by emmanhello View Post
    That's why this mod is great, the carbon tube don't touch the shaft at all (if you installed it correctly...)
    Here's some pic:
    http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/...ps924dd709.jpg
    http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/...psec1260a1.jpg
    Already ordered the tube... thanks !!! :-)

  17. #17
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    The highest failure rate items are drive shafts and motor bearing and bearing adapter (mostly because of 3S). Everything else is just nice to have. No need to over-build unless you have a specific need or are breaking specific things due to the way you drive. Oh yeah, extra wheel nuts are must if you run a high powered motor or change wheels often. You are bound to lose one and nothing will ruin your day worse than not having a 2 cent part.
    Last edited by Slaughter33; 12-08-2012 at 10:44 PM.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by holdnickso View Post
    emmanhello, can you provide a bit more info on the 12mm hex you mentioned.
    Is this the hex "nut" that goes over the pin on the axle that keeps the bearings in?

    Does this just help to stay on better with the allen lock pin or do they also keep more dirt out of the bearings ?
    I did a lot of reading, but this seems like an item that people are not in agreement on.

    These are the ones I am looking at.... is this what you would recommend ?
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCSGY&P=7

    Thanks,
    Nick
    That's it! Anything but plastic should be fine. The plastic one tend to strip easily. But watch out for stripping the wheel with them, make sure you thread lock the axle, because if the wheel nut come loose, you'll strip your wheel. This happened to me :-(

    Quote Originally Posted by holdnickso View Post
    Already ordered the tube... thanks !!! :-)
    You are a true enthusiast!!
    Last edited by emmanhello; 12-08-2012 at 11:42 PM.

  19. #19
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    Get a spare body and or shoe goo/ drywall tape the body post areas and up the window pillers. With a fully stocked tool box like yours theres no reason to not launch that sucker on 20 foot airs. Owning a stampede = wheelies and flips off jumps I'm in the process of handing the remote over to my almost 4 year old. Even on training mode I'm nervous watching. Enjoy

  20. #20
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    heres a link to the bodies
    http://prolineracing.com/1-10-truck-bodies
    heres a link to the how to paint a rc body, u will need some paint made for a lexan body (called pactra brand, pretty any color you want
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D-YdTOAityc
    theres a vid on my shoegoo and drywall tape thread, 8th post, by dknuckles
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...d-drywall-tape
    RACE IT, BREAK IT, FIX IT, REPEAT!

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by emmanhello View Post
    You are a true enthusiast!!
    Ha ha thanks emmanhello !
    I used to fly a gas heli 15 years ago so I think I am getting the bug again with my son. :-)

    Quote Originally Posted by braaap58 View Post
    I'm in the process of handing the remote over to my almost 4 year old. Even on training mode I'm nervous watching. Enjoy
    Yeah, my son is 8 and no fear.... that is mainly why I am getting the spare parts.

    I got the truck out the other day while he was at school so I could "practice" and no broken parts. :-)
    I did slide down the street 10' on the roof a few times so I had to take some very fine wet sandpaper to buff out the scratches.

    Quote Originally Posted by atclauss View Post
    heres a link to the bodies
    http://prolineracing.com/1-10-truck-bodies
    heres a link to the how to paint a rc body, u will need some paint made for a lexan body (called pactra brand, pretty any color you want
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D-YdTOAityc
    theres a vid on my shoegoo and drywall tape thread, 8th post, by dknuckles
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...d-drywall-tape
    Thanks for the links atclauss !!
    I'm also thinking of making my own body roll cage if I can find the correct dia cold rolled steel.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 12-09-2012 at 04:14 PM. Reason: post merge

  22. #22
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    The shoe goo drywall method keeps your body in one piece and its a shock absorber. I've landed on the roof from 10' up all summer on one body. Just to give you an idea of what to expect.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by braaap58 View Post
    The shoe goo drywall method keeps your body in one piece and its a shock absorber. I've landed on the roof from 10' up all summer on one body. Just to give you an idea of what to expect.
    Thanks braaap, never heard of shoe goo, but sounds like a cool concept to help protect the light body.
    Wonder how Gorilla Glue or expanding foam would do ?
    Last edited by holdnickso; 12-09-2012 at 04:16 PM.

  24. #24
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    Another question:
    I was going to order some spare spurs to run in place of the steel one I have, but when I look at the photo of the 3956 on TowerHobbies the Spur Slash "LXZKW2" looks different from the Jato "LXKLZ7".
    The Jato looks like the one in my PEDE.

    Should I get the LXZKW2 or the LXKLZ7 or is there a better "non-steel" one out there ?

    I searched MIP for "54T spur" but got nothing.

    Thanks in advance !!

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by holdnickso View Post
    Thanks braaap, never heard of shoe goo, but sounds like a cool concept to help protect the light body.
    Wonder how Gorilla Glue or expanding foam would do ?
    Home repair stores carry a similar product called goop you could use also. The stuff is similar to silicone when it dries and sticks to the body really well. Gorilla glue and foam would make it ridgid, which transfers impact to shock towers.

  26. #26
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    your best bet to find shoegoo is to go to walmart, walk back to shoe section, and in the front of one of the isle ends there will be a red tube labeled shoe ogg, hope that helps
    RACE IT, BREAK IT, FIX IT, REPEAT!

  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by holdnickso View Post
    Thanks braaap, never heard of shoe goo, but sounds like a cool concept to help protect the light body.
    Wonder how Gorilla Glue or expanding foam would do ?
    Just stick with the shoo goo. It is all you need, tested and proven.

    Thanks ksb, that makes a lot of sense, and will probably be the path I will take if it comes to that.

    Checked out a different type of cv setup in an add in rc driver. The add only mentions revo/slayer/ summit, but may trickle down to the smaller trucks. I will see if I can find the site, think they were called ball-x or something.

    Edit: found a vid to explain the design:


    Holy moving parts! Wonder if these will ever be avail for the smaller trucks...
    Last edited by rag6; 12-10-2012 at 12:02 AM.
    Sit down, buckle up, hold on, pay me...

  28. #28
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    Wow, incredible shaft !! Bearings and a boot !

    Wonder if anyone will make a slipper clutch that uses that fluid that changes viscosity depending on the voltage applied ?!?! :-)

  29. #29
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    Hey, sorry to ask this again, but I am waiting to hit the Buy button on my shopping cart until I know if I have the correct
    spur gear.

    I was going to order some spare spurs to run in place of the steel one I have, but when I look at the photo of the 3956 on
    TowerHobbies the Spur Slash "LXZKW2" looks different from the Jato "LXKLZ7".
    The Jato looks like the one in my PEDE.
    The center cutout on the LXZKW2 looks to be a lot larger that the other one. Does it matter ?

    Should I get the LXZKW2 or the LXKLZ7 or is there a better "non-steel" one out there ?

    Someone mentioned the MIP one, but when I searched MIP for "54T spur" I got nothing.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by holdnickso View Post
    Wow, incredible shaft !! Bearings and a boot !

    Wonder if anyone will make a slipper clutch that uses that fluid that changes viscosity depending on the voltage applied ?!?! :-)
    I like the slipper clutch myself, but if you want a "slush box" instead, you can replace it with the center diff kit. You can tune it with different viscosity fluids.

  31. #31
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    I went ahead and ordered the spur that looked correct... the LXKLZ7.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by holdnickso View Post
    I went ahead and ordered the spur that looked correct... the LXKLZ7.
    Sorry that nobody answered your question, but you did the right choice. the LXZKW2 is for center differential and the LXKLZ7 is for standard slipper clutch. (Traxxas stock number is tra3956)

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by emmanhello View Post
    Sorry that nobody answered your question, but you did the right choice. the LXZKW2 is for center differential and the LXKLZ7 is for standard slipper clutch. (Traxxas stock number is tra3956)
    Hey, no worries.... I could not wait !! :-)

    So I ordered the following parts in addition to the parts I first listed in this post:

    Traxxas Aluminum Rear Stub Axle Carrier LXYTH7
    Traxxas Nuts 4mm Flanged Nylon Locking (4) LXSHA1
    Traxxas Aluminum Bearing Adapter Blue Slash 4X4 LXAAHD
    Traxxas Turnbuckles Camber Link 49mm LXSGY8
    Traxxas Turnbuckles Toe Link 59mm LXSGZ8
    ST Racing Concepts CNC Alum Lock-Pin Hex Adapter (4) LXCSGY
    Tekno R/C Big Bone Center Driveshaft/Outdrives Stmp 4x4 LXCLSG
    Traxxas Spur Gear 0.8P 54T Jato (3) LXKLZ7


    I'll hold off on a bit on the Al motor mount.

    Hope this list will help others when they are first starting out.

    Thanks again for all of everyone's help !!

    Nick

  34. #34
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    are you giving your son the 4x4 pede or a vxl pede?
    RACE IT, BREAK IT, FIX IT, REPEAT!

  35. #35
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    Stampede 4X4 VXL

  36. #36
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    Off topic.. are you a Tower club member?
    2x Stampede VXL
    Stampede 4x4

  37. #37
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    holdnickso, do you have any r/c's yet?
    RACE IT, BREAK IT, FIX IT, REPEAT!

  38. #38
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    No, not a Tower member.... Should I be for a discount or "points"

  39. #39
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    Oh wait.... do you mean am I purchasing as a guest or if I have a Tower user account?

    If so, I do have a Tower user account.

  40. #40
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    do you have any hobby grade r/cs yourself?
    holdnickso
    RACE IT, BREAK IT, FIX IT, REPEAT!

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