MERV upgrade input

[Zonnashi]

I have a Brushless MERV and want to do some upgrades after an incident with a sewer cover . It did perform some spectacular aerial maneuvers after it pole vaulted off it however. I'm not looking for high speed runs(that’s what I say now at least), more for a platform that is prone to take bashing. I also previously ran into Thermal shutdown (stock gearing), after reading I wonder partially if because some grass driving, or damaged to bulkhead prior to the sewer cover (This is the second time I’ve killed a bulkhead). So far from reading these are the things I have looked at and believe to be suitable to my goals.

T-Bone full chassis brace, front/read bumper. (Wheelie bar?)
Dirt Hawgs on Titus Prolines
380 Motor Heat Sink
Much More Racing Ultra high rpm fan.
RPM F/R Upper/Lower arms
GPM F/R Oil shocks
GPM alloy Tie Rod Set
GH Aluminum Carrier
Shim Differentials
Velcro body mounting

With a T-bone would I still need to consider aluminum bulkheads?
When should I transition to Lipos and what are some suggested ones to look into? ( I have a capable charger and would have already transitioned if it weren’t for the heat issues).
I do plan to upgrade to a Nue 1110 1/y with MMP, what other things would you suggest before this transition (Lipos already known, and will get a servo upgrade as well.)
I appreciate your input on this.

[Petertje60]

Dirt Hawgs are great tires, but I would put those on different wheels. The Titus wheels are quite heavy.
Alu bulkheads bend less easy than plastic ones and will keep your diffs alive longer.
When it comes to Lipos, I would take a look at SPC. Awesome batteries for a nice price.

[Zonnashi]

I had noticed they seemed a bit heavy compared to another set of mounted tire/wheelcombo I saw. I'll have to dig around now to see what other wheel seems to be a good choice. May have to drop the money for the aluminum then, I suppose it really comes down to how hard i plan to drive this thing. Thanks for the input so far Peterje60

[50togo]

Most upgrade to cvd and proper clutch settings with the neu 1110
I have put the neu to the test for a while now!
The t bone helps more to strengthen the chassis .aluminum bulkheads work great and always run in parallel
With the dirt hawgs traxxas desperadoes work good. I run hpi 2160 rims that are a little wide but work good and have some much needed offset to help with roll overs
Foam tires would be good for speed runs and for batteries my strongest are thunder power 1800 65/130 2 cell and 1300 65/130 3 cell

[Zonnashi]

50togo, what do you mean cvd and proper clutch settings? I've seen your name a lot when looking around for neu information, but I must not have come across this subject.

[50togo]

Sorry traxxas cvds -steel axles and slipper clutch adjustment so you still get a bit of slippage when you first hit the throttle

[Zonnashi]

Oh ok, I have read of the cvds, just blanked out the term and forgot to add them to my list of things to get. I had also looked at the desperado/relux/white dish rims. i'll likely do one of those for dirt hawgs, then look into something a bit wider like the ones you suggested for road driving and speed runs. With a nue, how can I not want to eventually do that? Heh. To transition up from what i have listed and the cvds, do you suggest anything else before the Nue/mmp?

[Petertje60]

You might take a look at Proline Desperados. Those are good wheels and a lot lighter than the Titus ones.

[sl33py]

can you swap in the CVD's without tearing into diffs?

any preference on which CVD's? I've seen the Integy ones, Traxxas (of course) and a few others... any specifically better or worse?

hope not too much of a hijack - thx!

[Petertje60]

can you swap in the CVD's without tearing into diffs?

any preference on which CVD's? I've seen the Integy ones, Traxxas (of course) and a few others... any specifically better or worse?

hope not too much of a hijack - thx!

If you want to use the Traxxas CVDs, you have to open the diffs. Integy doesn't have the best reputation. I had some GPM steel ones ages ago and those were junk. They seem to have updated their design.
I am using the Traxxas ones. Works perfect so far.

[Jimmie Neutron]

This is what I had when I very rarely walked away broke.

Steel hollow balls (7028x) to reduce slop
3M mushroom tape along battery doors to hold the body on
Aluminum knuckles to reduce slop and add strength (I have HR but recommend GPM or GH)
A BlueBird 390 servo due to the stock being known to fry/strip itself
RPM a arms at all four corners (Front-80692, Rear-80602)
Center differential (7014) upgrade to help handle the power of
2200mah 2S 20C LiPo's ran in parallel for ~1 hour run times
23/50 gearing gets me to ~30mph yet keeps temps in check
Shimmed front and rear bulkheads... *LINK*

Especially do that last part... extremely cheap preventative procedure.

[Zonnashi]

Peterje60: Iare the ones i think i will wind up going with. They even sell them with Dirt Hawgs on them, but that doesn't have the tape either.
sl33py: I likely would have asked the same thing, so didn't do anything but help me heh.
Jimmie Neutron: Awesome advice, I appreciate the product numbers also on these. I had considered a central diff but wanted to see if someone else mentioned it as advice or if I just wanted anything I could find that would be able to be installed haha. I have that link on my favorites list already, good to see I found what I need to be looking for.