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  1. #1
    RC Champion
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    May 2012
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    friendswood texas
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    1,354

    Castle esc power switch?

    Went out to bash today only 3rd pack since I installed the 2400 pro sct set up. The power switch was acting retarded. System would power up acknowledge the 3s batt go 5 feet and shut off. Turn switch off and on it would go 5 feet and turn off. I would turn esc off and back on and system would not power up. Finally started working right . I have read of switch problems on the forums is there a better switch to install?

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier
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    Apr 2012
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    Ft. Stewart, GA
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    594
    They way mines is set up.. No switch no worries!


    Sent from my iPhone4
    Whatever I just said.. I'm probably wrong..

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier
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    Sep 2012
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    FarNorCal
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    Ditto SSG!!!! Had a friend who had the same issue.....but while race'n @ the local track!!!!! Weird!!!! Best way to solve the problem is to get rid of the switch all together....I solder'd the 2 switch wires together for him and he's had no more problems!!!! Hope this helps!!!!
    rc10T3, TT Sparrowhawk XXB, Slash 4x4, 1/16 Rally

  4. #4
    RC Champion
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    Sep 2010
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    the giant boot. Anybody?
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    Castle tech actually suggest's this as it is a known problem. Does not interfere with performance in any way. Clip the switch off and solder them together.
    *Proud Husband of United state's Air Force wife.*

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. kdvanb's Avatar
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    Aug 2011
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    Grassie Ontario Canada
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    3,136
    Always wondered...
    So when you plug in your battery it automaticly turns on?
    Slash 2wd, Slash 4x4, 30th digger, Rustler VXL

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    Feb 2010
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    El Sobrante, Ca
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    7,960
    Yes, plug the battery in and its on. I leave my switches in the on position. It one fails, I will then solder them together. So far I've not had one quit on me.
    Slash Ultimate, ET-3S, 2400, MIP, King Headz, RPM

  7. #7
    RC Champion
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    Aug 2012
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    Central NJ
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    Castle has QC issues with these switches. I had two do the exact same thing. If you bend the extra contact straight that holds the outer cover on and pull of the outer cover and slide it down you can get access to the switch contacts. Peel back the heat shrink and I guarantee what you will find is one or both of the solder joints is bad. In both instance I discovered the wire was soldered in a loop around the contact but not to the contact. A simple little bump would shut it down. Get some small heat shrink, snip the wires off, strip them back and slide on a new piece of heat shrink. Tin the wires then insert them in the terminals and resolder to terminals and slide the heatshrink back up and heat it up to shrink. All done, works fine...lasts a long time. A lot of folks snip them off and just solder the two wires together. I like having the switch for many reasons but not going into that debate again.

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