mip heavy duty cvds faling!!!:(

[Awhiteboi]

I have a pede vxl it was breaking those plastic driveshafts every battery if not more( gens axe lipo 2s 25c 5300mah) so I invested in a 75$ pair of mip cvds for it following the directions to the fullest I put them togather and mounted them 5minutes into the battery one side stops working this happaned many times with runs as short as 20seconds. Im not going throttle crazy either this is very very gentle driving. I tighten the set screws to the flat side of the diff post as tight as I can then it happens again. Seems to me I just need a set screw similar to the piece that comes with the stock driveshafts that goes thru the holes all the way then tightens down with threads. I tried the set screws from the original driveshafts are to small. if there is such a piece id LOVE a part number maybe a website to find it. really hope I didnt just waste 75$ any help advice is appreciatted and thank you ahead of time.

[ReaperGN]

You need to use some thread locker and allow it to properly set.

[Dr. Isotope]

Even when properly threadlocked, you'll start breaking (or losing) the long pins that connect the sliders to the yokes. The shaft parts just too heavy. I put up with a set for maybe two weeks.

[Awhiteboi]

so theres no way to truly fix it? No pin that will work?

[Dr. Isotope]

I was making pins out of various tool steels, after I lost/broke all of the MIP pins. They were better, but still ended up rattling out or breaking. The thing is, plastic driveshafts do a great job of absorbing vibration and shock load. The MIPs just transfer that shock into the rest of the drivetrain. My MIPs caused more parts failures than they prevented. Just my experience.

[ramflames]

I have MIP Xduty shafts on my 4x4 Stampede. When correctly assembled using red Loctite and given 24 hours of drying time. Issues are far and few between. You can all so shrink wrap around the pins to keep them in if the grub screws come loose. When you need to remove the grubs screws. Apply a little bit of heat to the grub screw with a soldering iron. This will loosen up the dried loctite allowing you to remove the grubs screws.

[MidnightPumpkin]

You need to use some thread locker and allow it to properly set.

+1 what Reaper said

[Awhiteboi]

After they came loose again with red thread lock and 16hrs if dry time I took the old pin from the original driveshafts and put it thru loosly then took electrical tape and wraped that around the driveshaft were the pins are then used proline thin tire glue on the tape. 2 batterys later some thing in the gear box is stripped

[rjm2519]

If you are breaking your axles that easily your problem is the slipper being too tight not the axles. If you aren't willing to loosen it something is going to give and that something is going to keep giving.

I used the same set of axles on my pede that was originally an xl1 for months after putting a vxl system in it and ran it countless times on 3s without issues. I replaced them when they were finally ovaled enough to justify it, even though they were still working fine.

On another note, I have the MIP axles on my erevo and had the same issue, until I got some red-loctite. I also made steel pins from drill bits instead of buying them from MIP. Unfortunately now one of the grub screws is stripped because of the loctite, just cant win with that setup. If you really want to add some fudge factor, dremel a flat spot on the pins where the grub screw contacts them, that way even if the grub comes loose the pin will stay in place. I did that and put heatshrink on the outside of them. Been through three runs with no more issues. I am still weighing using the stock shafts instead I like having a play in the driveline.

[BaldyDaniels]

I've been using the new keyed mip x duty cvds on my HR p2de xl for about 20 runs without issue. Remember to clean all the threads that you will be using thread locking compound on. Use rubbing alcohol to clean the threads then let dry. After applying the red thread lock compound, let it dry for a full 24hrs before running the truck. Using thread lock compound on threads that are not thoroughly cleaned with alcohol or like product will only render the locking compound useless. The same goes for the 24HR set time for the locking compound. My truck is twice the weight of stock and I run trenchertires and the castle 2400kv motor on 3s lipo with the mip axles being held to the output drives with the two grub screws that come with each axle. Haven't had anything come loose yet and I run the slipper as tight as it will go (it still slips a little from the power of the 2400 motor though).

Ive used permanent thread locker quite a few times on my drilling rig at work and when the parts are properly cleaned and the compound is allowed to set properly, I've seen locking compound reliably hold against some serious amounts of torque and vibration and still need to heat the parts to remove em. These locking compounds are designed and tested to hold against forces far exceeding that of an rc.

Sent from my GT-I9100M using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

[Dr. Isotope]

As anyone reading the posts about "proper assembly" of the MIPs should be able to assess, the X-duties are poorly designed parts that should be avoided. I'm running homebrew-extended Tekno M6s on my big truck (9lbs RTR) putting Tekin T8 power through them, and have never had even a single issue. By conservative estimate, I have around 100 miles on them. Not a few packs or runs. One hundred miles. I put 28 off-road miles on them in a single week. Tekno simply makes a better part.

[BaldyDaniels]

As anyone reading the posts about "proper assembly" of the MIPs should be able to assess, the X-duties are poorly designed parts that should be avoided. I'm running homebrew-extended Tekno M6s on my big truck (9lbs RTR) putting Tekin T8 power through them, and have never had even a single issue. By conservative estimate, I have around 100 miles on them. Not a few packs or runs. One hundred miles. I put 28 off-road miles on them in a single week. Tekno simply makes a better part.

Thanks for the info on the Tekno axles, i'll have to check em out. I dont disagree that MIP x duty's have flaws and i had a lot of issues with the older versions which caused me to give up on using MIP's for a good while. The newer keyed versions of the x-duty cvds have solved a couple of the previous issues like stub axle strength and excessive play in the spline contact, but they do still have some shortcomings for sure. I havent had a chance to run them as much as i would like to, (over 2 feet of snow in november here) and it is good to hear from someone with more runtime/experience with the product. Only time will tell how they work out in the very long run for me, but so far so good for the first 20 runs. The majority of my runs consist of two packs back to back for a total of about one hour. For me personally, i dont feel that approx. 15-20 hours of runtime on a set of shafts is a short amount of time considering my truck is geared for 50+mph. With my driving/bashing style, i would guess that would probably put me at an average speed of around 20-25mph when just bashing and not doing speed passes, so i dont feel that the amount of miles i have put on my axles is not significant enough to give a positive review...for now. Trust me, it took a lot of self persuasion to pull the trigger on MIP's again after my last experience with them, and if i would have known more about the Tekno shafts i likely wouldn't have bought the MIPs. It has been a welcome change to be able to bash for so many runs in a row compared to when i was twisting and snapping the stock slash 4x4 shafts 1-2 times during every pack, so for the 50 bucks i paid for the MIP's, they are already saving me a little money and a lot of hassle. Thanks for the input Doc, I will be checking out the Tekno shafts as i need to upgrade the shafts on my p4de. Whats the price like for the Tekno's?


http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...the-HR-P2de-XL...

[Dr. Isotope]

Last set of Teknos I bought was about $45 shipped, which includes two sets of bearing carriers as well as the larger bearings. I also use the Tekno 17mm adapters, which are about $20 for the set. But with the included axles, you could actually run whatever adapter you wanted to. The Tekno ones are just really, really nice.

I really tried to live with the MIPs. But it was almost as if they didn't want to stay together. Non stop problems from the moment I installed them. A buddy of mine then tried the non-X-duty, older-style C-CVDs, and that was nothing short of a debacle. One of the axle yokes sheared off five minutes into the first pack. He bought a replacement bag of stubs, and broke the rest of them in less than a week-- all with a Velineon setup. It's a shame. I had good luck for many years with MIP products-- I think the set of MIP CVDs on my old AE T3 worked without issue for more than half a decade.

[911dott]

[BaldyDaniels]

That urc review is of the older version of the x duty cvds. The old versions were a nightmare for me and gave me the same grief as Doc had. I lost so many pins, grubs and barrels that i used to attach a metal rod full of earth magnets behind my my kids emaxx, so when he was ripping up and down the street and the lawn it would pick up parts that i lost. Recovered quite a few of the mip parts, and a ton of body clips. Lol. The older mips were just like doc describes because i was like they refused to stay together, no matter what precautions i took when assembling them with the red threadlocker. One of the drive cups ended up shattering on mine and then i gave up on the mips for a long time. Once these new ones started getting some better reviews, i decided to try them and theyve been good so far, but if anyone is ever in the market to buy these x duty mips, id suggest staying very far away from the old style pinned axle ones.


http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...the-HR-P2de-XL...