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  1. #1
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    Unhappy Summit question?? Somethings not right.

    So as some of you know, I bought my first Summit about a week and a half ago. The thing is just awesome and I couldn't be happier. It does NOT have the LVD because I believe it's a 2010 version.

    On to the issue. I bought a Summit that I will give my son for his X-mas present. It's a 2012 and has the TQi controller. I got it off of E-bay and it arrived today. It came with Traxxas 8.4V 3000mAh batteries. First thing I did was threw the batteries on the charger. Then I grabbed my other (charged) batteries and put them in the truck and turned the transmitter on. Then I pushed the button on the ESC (which is the LVD model). It was blinking fast green and would not move. The servos all worked and could turn the wheels back and forth, but no forward and no reverse. Then I noticed the controller was set to 70/30 and not 50/50 like my other Summit was (is this the throttle trim???). So I shut everything off and switched it over to 50/50, turned everything back on again, and then it worked fine. So please tell me if everything there sounds like I did the right thing.

    Next issue. This one is nowhere near as fast as my truck. As far as I know, mine is stock as far as gears and everything. I thought maybe it was in training mode, so I switched through the settings. It was not in training, so that is not the issue. Any ideas??? The only difference I know of between the two is that one has LVD ESC and one doesn't.

    Last issue. Back to the stocks batteries. The guy told me he only had 5 charges on them (and by the looks of the truck, I believe him). But they won't charge up. Charger said they were charged, so I put them in the truck and drove it for about 5 minutes and it dies very quickly. I pulled the batteries again and charged them again. Seems that one will charge up to 1700 mAh and the other 900 mAh. This is what my Onxy charger tells me anyway. Does that mean the batteries are shot?? If so, I'm gonna try and get a partial refund from the guy.

    Sorry for the long post, but I really needed to explain in detail what was going on.

    BTW, here are the trucks.


  2. #2
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    For the first issue.
    I don't really know what was wrong there. i have switched my transmitter to 70/30 while everything is on and going and the truck just starts moving because the throttle trim is out a bit.
    The throttle trim resets again when you re-calibrate as far as i understand.

    Second Issue
    Could be a result of the third issue

    Third issue
    My batts run about that long now but thats after 6 months of lots of runs.
    Just bought some new ones 7 cell 5000mah 8.4v onyx's...
    I really don't think 5 charges would have stuffed the batt's. I think they could of been shotty batts, it is possible.
    Maybe he bought it, only got 5 min runs out of it because of shotty batts and decided to sell it and you were unlucky enough to pick it up.
    And as for running slow as you said in the second issue i think it could only more prove they are shotty batts.
    Anyway thats my opinion, see what others say.
    If the summit can go through; its not deep enough

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by danielhawkins View Post
    For the first issue.
    I don't really know what was wrong there. i have switched my transmitter to 70/30 while everything is on and going and the truck just starts moving because the throttle trim is out a bit.
    The throttle trim resets again when you re-calibrate as far as i understand.

    Second Issue
    Could be a result of the third issue

    Third issue
    My batts run about that long now but thats after 6 months of lots of runs.
    Just bought some new ones 7 cell 5000mah 8.4v onyx's...
    I really don't think 5 charges would have stuffed the batt's. I think they could of been shotty batts, it is possible.
    Maybe he bought it, only got 5 min runs out of it because of shotty batts and decided to sell it and you were unlucky enough to pick it up.
    And as for running slow as you said in the second issue i think it could only more prove they are shotty batts.
    Anyway thats my opinion, see what others say.
    I put my "good" batteries in my truck and ran it across the yard full speed (one pass) and then put those same batteries in the other truck and did the same thing. It just doesn't have the snort or top speed that mine has. Shouldn't really be a battery issue at all because I am comparing apples to apples.

  4. #4
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    That's kinda funny cuz I have two summits and one is the new TQI and the other is the model before that. The TQI is all stock except lipos and the other is all stock except one tooth smaller on the pinion and the one with the smaller pinion and nimh batteries is faster then the new TQI on a heads up race. A huge difference in about 50 yards is about 30 feet

  5. #5
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    Dumb question but is it in first gear and not second?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Piranha-z View Post
    I put my "good" batteries in my truck and ran it across the yard full speed (one pass) and then put those same batteries in the other truck and did the same thing. It just doesn't have the snort or top speed that mine has. Shouldn't really be a battery issue at all because I am comparing apples to apples.
    Yes sorry i read that just now and realised i had stuffed up. Now i have read it correctly it is NOT a batt issue.
    In that case then that is a mystery to me.
    Last edited by danielhawkins; 11-30-2012 at 12:10 AM.
    If the summit can go through; its not deep enough

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keila72 View Post
    That's kinda funny cuz I have two summits and one is the new TQI and the other is the model before that. The TQI is all stock except lipos and the other is all stock except one tooth smaller on the pinion and the one with the smaller pinion and nimh batteries is faster then the new TQI on a heads up race. A huge difference in about 50 yards is about 30 feet
    Hmmmmmmmmm... really strange... COuld there be some new limiter or something in the esc.
    If the summit can go through; its not deep enough

  8. #8
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    I'm not sure. One of these days I will make them all stock and 100% identical and see what the difference is.
    That race was also on pavement so there was no burn out.
    When you you smaller pinion doesn't it make the top speeds slower?

  9. #9
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    For your 70/30 issue, My summit 1/16 vxl just goes crazy to. Help

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keila72 View Post
    I'm not sure. One of these days I will make them all stock and 100% identical and see what the difference is.
    That race was also on pavement so there was no burn out.
    When you you smaller pinion doesn't it make the top speeds slower?
    LOL. If you make them i dentical there is no difference. LOL... Hahaha... don't worry i get what ya mean...
    Yes a smaller pinion would make top speeds slower.
    If the summit can go through; its not deep enough

  11. #11
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    When you switch it to 70/30 you have to recelebrate it. Then it will work.

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    If your motor doesn't smell funny and you're sure all your wires are in good shape and connectors are tight here's what I'd do.

    First thing I would do is to make sure the LVD is turned off. The light should be constant red in nimh mode, and shut off as throttle is applied an come back on as its released. There is a supliment instruction page for the new evx2 with LVD on the traxxas site.

    Second install freshly charged batteries and recalibrate your esc in either 50/50 or 70/30. You can't switch from one to the other without recalibrating. (I'm hoping this is why your new truck is slower than your old one)

    It might not be a bad idea to pull the motor to clean and lube your bushings, who knows when the last time that was done if ever.

    And with the motor out check to see the the driveline spins freely and isn't binding up on anything.

    As far as your batteries go how fast are you attempting to charge them? If you're using your onyx I disagree with their charge recommendations, if I remember correctly my instructions said you can charge 3000-5000mah batts at 5 amps. You should never charge a nimh above 1c so 3amps for a 3000mah batt Not 5! That being said if they still wont take a charge the packs are probably on their way out. You might be able to slow charge them at 1.5 amps and rejuvenate them well enough until you get new ones.

    Hope this helps.



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    Last edited by happymachinist; 11-30-2012 at 01:57 AM.

  13. #13
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    One motor is broken in and the other isn't.
    And who is to say that the one that is broken in was broken in properly... that could be where the speed difference is coming from.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  14. #14
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    There is a lot of possibility with this.
    - Could be a not yet broken in motor.
    - Could be that the bearing are worn/rusted (maybe one of the five runs was in water/snow - then just had a good clean up, but no post drive maintenance).
    - Has the remote been recalibrated? - Could be that the remote is at 100% throttle, but the ESC only take it as 60%.
    - Battery problems could simply be that the previous owner only ran it five times, and then left the batteries sitting for a year with no charge and the batteries have just lost their 'life'.

  15. #15
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    WOW, great responses. Let me first say that I don't have a manual for either one of my trucks. Two questions:

    1. This thing showed up and the controller was set at 70/30, and it's not easy to switch (so I'm guessing it didn't get switched by accident). So now I switched it to 50/50 and didn't do any calibration. Could this be the issue? This is the speed control setting, right?? I don't really even know what that switch does

    2. How do I recalibrate the controller and truck (as mentioned, no manual)

    The LVD seems to be working fine and lights up solid red and then when you give it throttle, the light goes out. As soon as you let off, it comes right back on.

    As far as charging those batteries, yes, I did have it at 5A because the manual said to. Had I thought about it and done my math I would have known that. I wonder if I can get them to come back if I charge them at 3A??

  16. #16
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    You can get a manual in PDF form off traxxas' website. The manual will go through the process of esc calibration for you. Its under the support tab up top I believe.

    If calibrating the esc doesn't change anything the motor might be toast like Jimmie said, who knows what the previous owner did or didn't do.

    The battery I had that wouldn't take a charge was a 3000 mAh battery from traxxas. I had to charge it at 1.5 amps to get it to take any more than a couple hundred milliamps. I only had to do it for a short time as it was a brand new battery and traxxas replaced it under warranty. I then took it to work and threw it in the battery recycle bin.


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  17. #17
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    Thanks. For those that try and find a manul using the "support" tab, it doesn't work. You get this error:

    Sorry! The page you were looking for no longer exists. We redesigned our site and many of the pages have changed.
    You can browse our new site by clicking the Traxxas logo above.
    If you're looking for something specific, try using the improved search feature.
    If you are unable to find something on our new site or have any other questions about our site or services feel free to contact us.
    --Webmaster


    If you use the search feature and type in Summit manual, it will find it right away.

    I will start reading through this thing. 34 pages!!!!!

  18. #18
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    The 70/30 50/50 is the throttle brake ratio. 70% throttle 30% brake and 50/50...you get the idea.

    It is another aspect that you can use to further fine tune the rx to your likings. It's all personal preference....but any time you change from one to the other you have to recalibrate your esc.

    You might try swapping motors from one truck to the other if calibrating the esc doesn't change anything.


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  19. #19
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    Well, if he had it on 70/30, I would have to guess that is the issue right there??? I'm really hoping anyway. Can't check until I get home though and recalibrate.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Piranha-z View Post
    Well, if he had it on 70/30, I would have to guess that is the issue right there??? I'm really hoping anyway. Can't check until I get home though and recalibrate.
    But he may have preferred 70/30 vs 50/50 and calibrated it accordingly.


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  21. #21
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    Check out the manual, page 14 and 16 specifically.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by happymachinist View Post
    You might try swapping motors from one truck to the other if calibrating the esc doesn't change anything.
    I would try motor and ESC swap and see if the problem follows the swap (after the controller re-calibration of course).

  23. #23
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    changing form 70/30 to 50/50 won't effect the top speed. Point A,B,C point A and C is the same all the time. Point B moves, that is the neutral point and why the esc needs calibrated because the neutral has moved.
    70/30 gives a finer control for throttle, But not very fine for reverse. Nitro users and racers who don't use reverse use this option.
    50/50 gives, well 50/50 control, used for mainly electric and people who use reverse.
    Both are your options what you like to use.
    Problems.The manual's good starting point. Simple

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Piranha-z View Post
    WOW, great responses. Let me first say that I don't have a manual for either one of my trucks. Two questions:

    1. This thing showed up and the controller was set at 70/30, and it's not easy to switch (so I'm guessing it didn't get switched by accident). So now I switched it to 50/50 and didn't do any calibration. Could this be the issue? This is the speed control setting, right?? I don't really even know what that switch does
    After switching from 70/30 to 50/50 recalibration is necessary. Tx on > ESC on and hold button until green then red LED comes on > Release button > hold full throttle > Red LED blinks once > hold full reverse > red LED blinks twice > hold full reverse > LED blinks green > calibration finished.
    The 70/30 setting simply gives more travel for forward throttle and less travel for reverse throttle. Amount of power does not change.

    2. How do I recalibrate the controller and truck (as mentioned, no manual)
    MANUAL
    Process listed above is on page 17.

    The LVD seems to be working fine and lights up solid red and then when you give it throttle, the light goes out. As soon as you let off, it comes right back on. Red LED indicates LVD is OFF, not "working fine." LED should be fully lit at rest and at full throttle.

    As far as charging those batteries, yes, I did have it at 5A because the manual said to. Had I thought about it and done my math I would have known that. I wonder if I can get them to come back if I charge them at 3A??
    Put a voltmeter on the batteries. Sounds like one or more cells have gone bad.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 11-30-2012 at 08:52 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by happymachinist View Post
    The light should be constant red in nimh mode, and shut off as throttle is applied an come back on as its released. There is a supliment instruction page for the new evx2 with LVD on the traxxas site.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ksb51rl View Post
    LED should be fully lit at rest and at full throttle.
    Now I am confused??? Should it stay on all the time red, or should it shut off when I hit the throttle????

    Two different answers here

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Piranha-z View Post
    Now I am confused??? Should it stay on all the time red, or should it shut off when I hit the throttle????

    Two different answers here
    Due to having too many different ESCs, truthfully, I'd have to go check. You are sweating the small stuff, but i think I understand the reason for the question. However, if the ESC is calibrated and working, it is working, no matter if the LED comes back on at full throttle or not.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 11-30-2012 at 08:55 AM.
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  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by ksb51rl View Post
    Truthfully, I'd have to go check, but you are sweating the small stuff. If the ESC is working, it is working, no matter if the LED comes back on at full throttle or not.
    To be honest with you, I don't know what the "small stuff" is That's why I am looking for help from you guys

    This is completely new to me less than two weeks ago.

    I will probably recalibrate and then test again. Probably won't fix the issue, but need to eliminate that part.

    Then I will swap the ESC's and see how it reacts. I am guessing I can just swap those without having to change anything else (at least that's what I thought I read somewhere).

  28. #28
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    OK, got a chance to get out of work early and check some of these solutions out.

    First, the truck itself. I re-calibrated the transmitter which took it back to factory specs. You can imagine the look on my face when the steering was opposite of what I am used to!! So I had to go through the settings and reverse the steering servo. Now, before testing my son's Summit, I had strapped the GPS on top of the truck and hammered it across the yard. Topped out at 17.4 mph. Pulled the batteries and put the exact same ones into my sons (now after calibration). Ripped across the yard and topped out at 16.9 mph. I think the issue is fixed there

    Now the batteries. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I was talking to a buddy at work and he said the only way to check a battery to see if it's bad is to test it under load. One thing that is a little confusing to me is that when I test the batteries on the bench, they are reading 9.6-9.8 volts. How is that possible when they are only 8.4V batteries??? So then I threw the batteries in the truck and hooked some alligator clips to the connections and then to my volt meter. Ran the truck in high gear, wide open. They only seem to drop about 0.5 volts. Does that seem right or am I totally doing this wrong???
    Last edited by Piranha-z; 11-30-2012 at 01:31 PM.

  29. #29
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    I think the 8.4v label is for resting voltage, all rechargeables are rated at 1.2v but it's normal to over charge that to 1.4 which is a cell in good condition. Therefore 1.4 x 7 cells = 9.8v

  30. #30
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    Throttling up any RC off the ground is not load testing... you would be surprised as to how much load their is when the rubber hits the turf!

    I have even seen NiMh cells hit 1.6v per cell... stated pack voltage is nominal.
    Even 2S LiPo's (ect) are labeled at 7.4v when they are actually 8.4v topped off.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie Neutron View Post
    Throttling up any RC off the ground is not load testing... you would be surprised as to how much load their is when the rubber hits the turf!

    I have even seen NiMh cells hit 1.6v per cell... stated pack voltage is nominal.
    Even 2S LiPo's (ect) are labeled at 7.4v when they are actually 8.4v topped off.
    OK, so then how do you check these batteries under load?? It's not like I can strap all the equipment on the side of the truck and run along side it, or even let it dig in trying to move while trying to get a reading on it.......................... I'm getting more frustrated as this goes on. There has to be a way to test a battery to see if it is still good, right???

  32. #32
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    I just typed in testing nimh and go this

    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...-battery-packs

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by maxi single View Post
    I just typed in testing nimh and go this

    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...-battery-packs
    Thanks. Maybe I was wrong, there is no true way to tell. Well, the way I see this issue solved is to dump all the dang NiMh and have both of my trucks on LiPo............................ Just gotta scrape up another couple hundo

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Piranha-z View Post
    OK, so then how do you check these batteries under load?? It's not like I can strap all the equipment on the side of the truck and run along side it, or even let it dig in trying to move while trying to get a reading on it.......................... I'm getting more frustrated as this goes on. There has to be a way to test a battery to see if it is still good, right???
    Sorry - the "small stuff" reference was not meant to insult. If I did, you have my apology.

    A battery back that is going bad will most easily be identified by temps, specifically a difference in cell temps since it is most common for one cells to go bad first. An IR thermometer (or a calibrated thumb) will show the difference well.

    NiMH cells will hold 1.5V/cell if you have premium packs but will easily retain 1.4V/cell regardless of pack quality.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  35. #35
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    Yes, all that KSB said, plus when looking for a weak or bad Nimh cell. - Study the pack carefully and look very closely for a cell(s) that has any fluid-like substance around the positive terminal and/or any white salt-like stains around the same positive terminal. If so that cell has vented electrolyte and is bad. Or if you see a cell with severely distorted shrink wrap or torn/melted shrink wrap, that cell IS also bad.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by ksb51rl View Post
    Sorry - the "small stuff" reference was not meant to insult. If I did, you have my apology.

    A battery back that is going bad will most easily be identified by temps, specifically a difference in cell temps since it is most common for one cells to go bad first. An IR thermometer (or a calibrated thumb) will show the difference well.

    NiMH cells will hold 1.5V/cell if you have premium packs but will easily retain 1.4V/cell regardless of pack quality.
    No, you didn't insult. I appreciate every bit of advice here. No need to apologize. And maybe you are right, maybe I just need to run these things and have fun with them for what they are.

    I do notice that one of the packs get's warm (not hot by any means) when it is done charging.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jakey View Post
    Yes, all that KSB said, plus when looking for a weak or bad Nimh cell. - Study the pack carefully and look very closely for a cell(s) that has any fluid-like substance around the positive terminal and/or any white salt-like stains around the same positive terminal. If so that cell has vented electrolyte and is bad. Or if you see a cell with severely distorted shrink wrap or torn/melted shrink wrap, that cell IS also bad.
    Thanks Tom. I will take a look at them a little closer, but as things look after receiving my SPC packs today, I will surely be going that route in the future for my sons rig!

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Piranha-z View Post
    No, you didn't insult. I appreciate every bit of advice here. No need to apologize. And maybe you are right, maybe I just need to run these things and have fun with them for what they are.

    I do notice that one of the packs get's warm (not hot by any means) when it is done charging.



    Thanks Tom. I will take a look at them a little closer, but as things look after receiving my SPC packs today, I will surely be going that route in the future for my sons rig!
    Good. I hope you enjoy those packs.
    A couple things I'd like to mention is that if using larger (8K mAh class) packs, you probably need to remove the overhead leaf springs in the battery bays and - this is something I resisted for a while - route the battery leads through the rear vents by removing the vent fins. This makes for a much cleaner look and also keeps the wires from exerting exactly the wrong (opening) kind of pressure on the door latches.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by ksb51rl View Post
    Good. I hope you enjoy those packs.
    A couple things I'd like to mention is that if using larger (8K mAh class) packs, you probably need to remove the overhead leaf springs in the battery bays and - this is something I resisted for a while - route the battery leads through the rear vents by removing the vent fins. This makes for a much cleaner look and also keeps the wires from exerting exactly the wrong (opening) kind of pressure on the door latches.
    Luckily I talked to Tom before I started modding that area. I got the fins cut out and I am really happy how clean it turned out. Not sure if anyone has a thread out here on the subject, but I am taking a lot of pics, so if there isn't a "how to" yet, I would be willing to post something.........

  39. #39
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    There may or may not be but either way that should not stop you. We can all learn from each other.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  40. #40
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    Glad to hear you got things sorted out with the truck!


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