Results 1 to 15 of 15
  1. #1
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    4,846

    pro line steering set up

    Any one heard is a good idea to get a rpm skid plate,because when you install the pro line steering system, the stock plate doesn't hold the screws that go thru the chassis very well?
    In fact,mine wont even snug up.
    I thought the screws were to short.
    But it came on the truck,so I don't know if the kit came with longer screws?
    But i measured them,and they seem correct.
    In fact much longer, they'd come thru the bottom.
    That's an idea,drill thru and nut it.
    Rather do it right.
    Thanks,all opinions welcome.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    PM me if ya wanna bash at Greenwood Bashplex!
    Posts
    12,943
    Wanna bash at Greenwood Bashplex in Pittsburgh ???

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    4,846
    Thanks but the screws are still short.I went to the store,measured them against the ones in the kit,same length.
    Ive got rpm skid plates,9(not installed yet) but hear they hold the screws going thru the chassis better.
    I was going to wait for my aluminum pro line transmission case,and but them on then.
    I guess ill just put the front skid plate on for now.
    I might even go ahead,and run holes right through,and nut them?they'll stay put then.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    SoCal, USA!!
    Posts
    728
    The RPM skidplate has an extra screw that comes down from the top, as is clearly shown in the above video. It also does not use screws to affix the bellcrank, it uses pegs, as is clearly shown in the above video. Good luck with the PL bellcrank. Mine lasted a month.

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    575
    Spend the 12 bux on the rpm skid plate and forget about it. I have never had a issue since.

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    4,846
    Thanks guy's
    Like I said,Ive got the Rpm plate's.
    I was just waiting on my aluminum pro line trans case to install them.
    But now, with cbrsilv15 thread,my problem is solved.
    Thanks again everyone!
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    4,846
    What broke? was it to tight?lose? it there any thing i can do to improve it? Perhaps aluminum.
    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. Isotope View Post
    The RPM skidplate has an extra screw that comes down from the top, as is clearly shown in the above video. It also does not use screws to affix the bellcrank, it uses pegs, as is clearly shown in the above video. Good luck with the PL bellcrank. Mine lasted a month.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    782
    Billy, you might want to install one of these when the rear is apart.

    http://prolineracing.com/performance...chassis-saver/

    I don't consider myself to be that hard on my trucks, but I still cracked the chassis with a RPM skid already installed.
    Slash 2wd
    Slash 4x4 MT
    P4de Trail

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    4,846
    Thanks. For $10 how can you go wrong?
    Quote Originally Posted by Shaky17 View Post
    Billy, you might want to install one of these when the rear is apart.

    http://prolineracing.com/performance...chassis-saver/

    I don't consider myself to be that hard on my trucks, but I still cracked the chassis with a RPM skid already installed.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    South Jersey
    Posts
    696
    They where out of stock

  11. #11
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    782
    Slash 2wd
    Slash 4x4 MT
    P4de Trail

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    SoCal, USA!!
    Posts
    728
    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    What broke? was it to tight?lose? it there any thing i can do to improve it? Perhaps aluminum.
    The little "ears" for the screws to attach the toe links ripped on both sides within the month. The plastic is typical ProLine. Also, unless the saver spring is cranked all the way down, it does virtually nothing. Maybe they've made changes-- I bought mine direct from them the day it came out. The ruined parts still sit in the bottom of a bin. And a big part of why I no longer purchase ProLine in any form.

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    4,846
    The screws go through the chassis into the pegs.Didn't need a video to tell that.I just said i bought it and someone had put it together like the stock version,when i tried to do it right,the two screws going thru the chassis were striped out. I remember someone saying use rpm skid,and it will be fine.I already had the rpms,was waiting for my aluminum pro line trans case to arive before i installed them.
    But thank you for the info.[ QUOTE=Dr. Isotope;5348724]The RPM skidplate has an extra screw that comes down from the top, as is clearly shown in the above video. It also does not use screws to affix the bellcrank, it uses pegs, as is clearly shown in the above video. Good luck with the PL bellcrank. Mine lasted a month.[/QUOTE]
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    4,846
    I see. they say they have improved them,not sure how? And I will ad,I'm not real impressed with the transmission either.
    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. Isotope View Post
    The little "ears" for the screws to attach the toe links ripped on both sides within the month. The plastic is typical ProLine. Also, unless the saver spring is cranked all the way down, it does virtually nothing. Maybe they've made changes-- I bought mine direct from them the day it came out. The ruined parts still sit in the bottom of a bin. And a big part of why I no longer purchase ProLine in any form.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  15. #15
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    53
    Ive been happy with my proline steering kit....when i first got it i had the stock front skidplate....well it didnt last long as i snapped the to pegs that hold the bellcranks clean off, since i have replaced with the RPM skid and I feel the steering and everything attached to it is solid as rock....but Dr. Isotope is correct, the servo saver doesnt do much unless cranked all the way down, but way better than the stock one....If the proline ever breaks i think ill go with the 4x4 bellcranks, im pretty sure they are similar to the proline but cheaper

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •