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Thread: Very mad.

  1. #1
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    Very mad.



    3rd run, brand new $100 set of 4 tires and this happens, I heard a weird clicking noise and figured it was my rear differential, because it was about to blow, So i continued to drive ( might as well, run the diff till it's dead as usual )

    Took the car apart to find this.

    Not exactly sure what to do, What to do from here?

    Last edited by ksb51rl; 11-21-2012 at 03:37 PM. Reason: LANGUAGE

  2. #2
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    The best solution is to remount the wheel. Bake it off, put it on a new set.

    Based on the pic, your hex wasent seated properly in the rim. Loose wheel nut is my guess. Happens to the best of us.

    40 series tires have a habit of finding weak point in the driveline. Yours involved the hex.

  3. #3
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    I have been reading, baking off the tire and putting a new rim in, I did tape them and I read that boiling/putting it in the oven makes the tire really soft permanently and the residue inside the tire is gross?

  4. #4
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    Gross and very stinky. It does change the tire compound some, but for the average basher, we would never notice a difference. Youll probably have to re-tape the tire.
    The other option is to soak them in acetone.

  5. #5
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    get some jb weld/epoxy putty wrap the nut in cling wrap then put the jb weld on and press it in, not a very good explination but it has fixed 2 wheels for me and it is much cheaper then buying new wheels.
    Edie: person below me did a better job explaining it but i did have my wheel pretty much rounded out and i was able to fix it with this method
    Last edited by zonda95; 11-21-2012 at 02:14 PM.
    sppppaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaccccccccceeeeeeeeee!!!!!

  6. #6
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    I have had this happen to me, although I only stripped half the depth of the moulded hex. To repair, I removed the wheel hub, wrapped it very tightly with a single layer of cling/shrink wrap, inserted it into the stripped wheel and packed in the gaps with hardening epoxy putty to recreate the moulded pieces that I had stripped out and let it set. Due to the cling/shrink wrap, the epoxy putty did not stick to wheel hub which I then gently removed and bang, I had recreated the moulded piece on the inside of the wheel with epoxy putty. Tire has held up since with no issues and running 6s. Admittedly, as previously stated, I had only stripped half of the moulded plastic so not sure if this will work in your case where you are not left with much, but hey, it sure beat having to bake off or boil off the tire and having to buy a new rim.
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  7. #7
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    I'm about to do this, My uncle said to rub some vascelene on the hub before inserting? do you think this will work? ( instead of the cling/shrink wrap )

  8. #8
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    Yeah, anything to prevent the putty binding to the wheel hub should work.
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mugs View Post
    Yeah, anything to prevent the putty binding to the wheel hub should work.
    Sweet thank you very much, I'll post back here in a few hours when it all drys. wish me luck!

  10. #10
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    No worries. Hope it works out for you.
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  11. #11
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    Use tape or shrink wrap. Vaseline might cause poor set of surface of JB weld and weaken it.

  12. #12
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    Worked great as far as I can tell, will test it tomorrow when it is light outside!





    One little edge of a hex did fall off so it is a pentagon shape kinda, it will still hold, it fell off when taking the hex out because i had the screw in it to fill the hole to not fill up

    Feels very sturdy, think it will work great. Thank you very much for the help guys!



  13. #13
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    Nice man. Looks like it might just work out. Let us know how it holds up under load.
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  14. #14
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    You may already know this but don't bother with the wheel nut tool that comes with the erevo. Use a socket wrench with the correct size socket and really tighten those nuts down to the point they are compressing the plastic wheel some....that should insure your jbweld fix holds up long term as well as preventing that kind of damage to any of your other wheels.
    Some blue loctite on the threads is a good idea too.
    -ERBE
    -Slash 4x4

  15. #15
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    ^^ Great point. I always use a standard socket and wrench and really tighten it down. I now use Vibra-tite thread locker. You can pre-apply it to threads and let it dry - kinda like the stuff Traxxas puts on their threads.

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