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Thread: new maxx

  1. #281
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    yes the whole hyper 7 diff much less shims needed

    nope the titanium pins didn't come in

  2. #282
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    What a Sight ! ! Niceeeeeee

  3. #283
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    Now if only the pins come in!

  4. #284
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    I look forward to seeing the pins as well......hopefully they hold up being titanium and all.......

  5. #285
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    No kidding. They really need to be a little thicker!

  6. #286
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    Guess what didn't come in today. Just my luck!

  7. #287
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    ^^^^
    Running the Lunsford Titanium pins in my rig for a while now as got tired of the stainless ones I had bending. A gr8 upgrade
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  8. #288
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    I'm going to be running Plastix Injector Through Hardened Pins

  9. #289
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    But have two sets of the Lunsford Titanium pins on standby, i don't like trying to remove bent pins. My Plastix pins are longer and are wedged and will be held in place with the use of rubber tubing

  10. #290
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    Good to know!

  11. #291
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    well the pins are officially mia and ordered another set. was fixing the truck up for my daughters birthday on saturday and it will be in pieces!

  12. #292
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    I noticed one of my pins just slightly bent when i tore mine apart. Probably when it took off and crashed. I have the flm ones made for the rpm arms. I think there hardened, not shore. Are the lunsford ones better?
    usman, where can you get the hardened through plastix injector pins.

  13. #293
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  14. #294
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    From Plastixs.com you want these pins :
    PE3-125-L14
    Those pins are fourteen inches long, you can order smaller lengths..like 6 inch. They come with a "head" on one end and you can wedge the pins against the bumper mounts. What I do is, size up a pin, cut it to the length i want and then use rubber tubbing ti keep it in place, in between the head and where the pin itself goes into the bulk hole. Since they are 1/8" pins, i use rubber tubbing that size. The pins are easier to remove in case you bend a bulkhead ( you can grasp onto the excess pin where the rubber tubbing is to get it out ) . These pins snap, ( but they are pretty durable) before they bend and that just makes things alot easier; easier to remove bent pins, easier and cheaper to keep replacing pins, etc. On that thread, somebody mentioned another company based out of the East where they can ship to your size likings and each pin would have a head. Plastixs also caters to people in RC Helicopter, such as myself. When I place my order, i called them up directly and Linda really helped me !

  15. #295
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  16. #296
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    more specifically :
    http://www.plastixs.com/ep01.html

  17. #297
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    Just like i thought. There not hard enough to not bend. I might just make my own from some 62-64 hardened tool steel blanks. This stuff doesnt bend.

  18. #298
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    Interesting, if you do , i would be interested to see how that comes about. Only if there was a way without having a lathe at hand to accomodate those for E-Clip fittings

  19. #299
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    How well do the grub screws hold in the flm bulks?

  20. #300
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    The grub screws do great ! As a matter of fact, the grub screws are utilized to install the Plastixs Ejector pins by dremeling slightly right where the pin would hover over the grub screw, and then the pin would remain in place once the grub screw has been screwed slightly into the valley dremeled into the pin, because Ejector Pins are hard to be crafted so that E-Clips can be used. If some 1/8" 62-64 hardened tool steel blanks are used, they too can be held in place with the grub screws. With standard pins that are held in place with E-clips, the grub screws also do great serving the purpose to keep the pin from twisting and slightly moving

  21. #301
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    The FLM screw kit comes with two sized grub screws. Once I organized the screws that came with the kit, I realized there are grub screws for the bulks to deal with the pins, and then there are grub screws for the pinion gear drive cup leading to the center shafts

  22. #302
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    Good to know!
    Be nice to have instructions!

  23. #303
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    usman, The pins i was looking at had the softer core. The PE3-125 look good. Almost as hard as a hardened tool blank. Good info on them. I can grind the grooves for the e-clips. So i might just get some M2 high speed steel stock. Maybe modify some little collars to go on the end. Another little winter project when i have time. But not today, have to get to work. Ive got some 3/4" M2 blanks to make some form tools out of. Lots of grinding.

  24. #304
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    That is awesome ! Please let me know how that goes! Hinge Pins are one of the most important aspects of bulletproofing a truck and with your imagination, know how, and endless type of product out there, the sky is the limit. So far, after a ton of research, I found that most maxx builders either settle for Titanium ( Lunsford seems to be the pick for the company for those ) or the Ejector Pins. I've heard about someone wanting to use barn nails. I wonder what is the hardest 1/8" metal/material out there, that can be used as hinge pins, if anyone knows or finds an answer please let me know.

    I hear that grinding grooves for E-clips can be challenging without a lathe, how do you plan on grinding the grooves for your E-Clips? It can be done. Maybe I need to use a different tool other than a dremmel. I've never heard of M2 High speed steel stock. Keep us updated and posted on how you come about your progress. Yesterday I worked on my Emaxx. I used longer hinge pins than for the lower front pins. This truck is my first of two builds, a tester-a foundation of developing the know how. This one sports TRAXXAS Aluminum Bulkheads and for the time being, some Lunsford Titanium Hinge Pins. I had a bad impact leaving one of the front Bulkheads slightly bent at one specific area where a front lower hinge pin lays as a result of a Titanium Hinge Pin that bent right there! So a longer pin at the bent area helps installation and removal.I used some 1/8" spacers that came on my stock Emaxx 3908 and some steel ones that came in a screw kit. I figured I'd match the other front lower side with the same technique to give it a nice look. Its even up spacers, my servo saver functions perfectly, and the pins are perfectly in place. Take a look.




  25. #305
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    Almost time to get the delivery of my new batteries, everything is all set and ready. I'll be tearing this thing down to refine it even further in no time! I have to wait on some more 1/8" spacing before installing the Ejector Pins myself ( i want it to be done just right at the cost of time, well worth it ) so im running Lunsford Titanium at the moment.

  26. #306
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    The Titanium Pins go good with the Titanium screws that i'm using in some places as well as the Titanium Skid Plates, but maybe the M2 high speed steel stock is better?

  27. #307
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    I dont know what would be the best strength material for a hindge pin. M2 High Speed Steel is 62-64 rockwell hardness. Seems to me you would want somthing that would bend a little but not stay bent. Probably why the titanium ones are popular.
    The ejector pins are about as hard as hss so i would probably use those as they have a solid head on them to hold my steel cross brace.

  28. #308
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    If your tweaking the front bulkhead from a front end collision then this might help http://t-bone-racing.net/Brand-N-Z/T...Maxx-p356.html I never was crazy about the look but they really help out on the revos and take the impact away from the weak spots

  29. #309
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    It wasn't too bad at all. Removing the hinge pin was fairly simple. I had to use another hing pin, wedge it into the slot , and then hammered it all out with light hamms. Installation of the new Lunsford Titanium Hinge Pin was a breeze as well, when i got to the point of where it stalled slightly, i used a hammer and lightly hammered it into place, it all just took a light tap to get the new pin in. That looks like a neat add on. However, i'll be inserting FOAM in between the front and rear skid plates and bulk braces. It will prvent and garuntee that my skid plates won't bend and will help absorb some of the energy from a collision. I'll custom cut the foam pieces to be wedged perfectly in those spaces where i have my hinge pins sticking out. I got the idea from a member on here using the foam that comes with the STock Emaxxs to be used as battery holders to be wedged in between the front and rear skid plate and bulk braces. well see how it goes

  30. #310
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    How strong is that "Basher front bumper"? Does it have some give. I'm afraid that i'll snap that plastic in a matter of one run. I don't bash, i just have high speed runs and some off roading fun. I'm afraid i'll run over a loose twig and it will snap the front off. I could be wrong, but how well does it work? It looks like its a good debris blocker as well

  31. #311
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    They have a lifetime warranty just take a pic and send it in don't even have to send it to them
    The ones on my revos are flexible and have good reviews

  32. #312
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    WOW THAT IS AWESOME ! i DIDN'T KNOW THEY HAD A LIFETIME WARRANTY! i'M GOUING TO GET ONE. dOES IT INSTALL FAIRLY EASILY? aNYTHING ELSE REQUIRED?

  33. #313
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    Should be easy. Comes with longer bolts

  34. #314
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    Is there a Rear Bumper like that also ?

  35. #315
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  36. #316
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    wow! The front and Rear bumpers will fit onto my Emaxx ? Both have lifetime warranties and fit right over the skid plates and everything else, i'm running the RPM three piece and all, so these bumpers fit over everything that I have right now, or do i shed the bumpers to replace them with these?

  37. #317
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    On my revos they go over the stock skid plates. Saved my merv a bunch of times!

  38. #318
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    I'm certainly ordering both of those for my maxx ! Thanks 50 !

  39. #319
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    You will have a tough maxx!

  40. #320
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    Yeah, i'll post the updates as they come along. When you get yours in the mail it'll be great to see your tougher max sporting them.

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