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  1. #1
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    brand new 3.3 W/pull start

    just got a brand new 3.3 today my first time using a pull start and the thing is fighting me very hard to crank is it normal i haven't even been able fire it up yet its so hard to pull any advice i'm using the ez-start wand to heat the glow plug but idk if that matters i need help!

  2. #2
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Typical for a new engine that needs break-in.
    The Super Derecho

  3. #3
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    so it not gonna start cause i spend about 25mins on thing and nothing the 2.5 rustler just fired up and run when i did the break in on it?

  4. #4
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    well it started but and i got to the 3rd tank of fuel but then again trying to start it back up i ended up ripping the plug wire right out of truck on the last pull so now i can't start it i wanted to!!! i can't do nothing for this truck every time i do something good for it the thing spits right in my face and i can't even use the appropriate words to to express my current feelings about this truck the thing runs like a champ for 9 months then it gives me nothing problems!!!

  5. #5
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    okay i'm making progress............ since all i got was busted up fingers i took the ez-start motor off the other 3.3 and put it on the new one now it will start but the idle wont go down at all and it creeps forward on me and does not respond to any tuning what so ever if i even adjust either screw one bit it dies and as i said the idle screw does not do anything but increase the idle and the current temps out side is 60*F if that makes a difference

  6. #6
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    gotta leak what it sounds like. also loosen ur slipper clutch up a bit. thats why its creepin on u. my maxx did the same thing. i pulled the motor and sealed it, and my throttle linkage had a slight bend in it, and the servo was bad. fixed all that and now it idles alot better. check ur linkage out, loosen slipper clutch until it stops creepin on ya, and check for leaks in ur motor, fuel lines, gas tank. u can check for leaks by starting it and sprayin wd 40 around motor. but i like to hook up a fuel line to carb inlet, and blow into while brushing soapy water on parts of motor that are problem areas of leaking. i use black RVT to seal my motors.
    revo 3.3 tmaxx 3.3 ofna hyper 7

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    Sounds like a tuning issue or a leak causing the high idle. Don't loosen the slipper clutch to keep it from creeping forward, the problem is most likely tune, leak or linkage related.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
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    New engines really should be preheated with hair drier to help loosen them up prier to starting.

    You need to reset the idle gap since you messed with it, once set there is no need to fool with it.
    Needs to be set at 1mm, a #60/#61 drill bit will work to set the idle gap, use the shank of the bit.

    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  9. #9
    RC Champion
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    If it is creeping forward don't loosen the slipper cutch to stop it. That will not work at all.
    "I like rc cars"....."WHAT? YOU'RE KIDDING!"

  10. #10
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    hhmmmmthanks guys when got the engine it came with the little air filter like on my 2.5R rustler so i put the old dual stage from the old 3.3 on it but when i did the after run maintenance i looked at the big air filter and seen quite a large tear so i'll be ordering a new air inlet and some fuel line since mines about a year old thanks guys my neighbors where getting a little scared with me in seemingly one of the worst rages they have ever seen lol

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. humayrayakongkinaon's Avatar
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    | Rally GT8 Powered By CC | BackSl4sh Roadrunner |

  12. #12
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    yea thats the one i have but the base where it attaches to the carb is torn a bit so i think thats the leak problem

  13. #13
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    okay so the first thing this morning after realizing my the base of the air filter had a hole in it i put the one that came with the engine on it and walalala it runs and doesn't creep granted i am running a little lean but thats because its 44*F and the engine wouldn't get over 140*F without leaning it out just a bit but the engine runs like a champ wheelies and everything. though i have to say using a pull start for a break in has ruined my fingers so naturally i'm back with the good ol' ez-start

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    You need to put a sock or some aluminum foil around the cooling head when running in cool temps to keep the engine temp 200F or higher (especially with a new engine that is still being broke in).
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  15. #15
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    yea i put a bit of aluminum on it but its getting about 60*F today so i don't think i need it

  16. #16
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    Just FYI, the leak in the air intake wouldn't affect your mixture. The carb meters the fuel/air mixture, so any leak before that wouldn't affect the mixture. Now, if the leak was after the carb, that woud affect the mixture.
    No Honey, I have had this one for a long time....

  17. #17
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    the results speak for themselves it works with the new air filter but not with old, and even the old engine which i though was gone works now with the new air filter so i actually have a good 3.3 and a new 3.3 cause one of an $15 air filter.

  18. #18
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    thats because the air intake does have a lot to do with how the motor runs. thats why they have different air filters for rc cars, trucks, motorcycles, or anything else with a motor. anyone ever wonder what performance filters are made for? or why your filters need to be cleaned to run right? it can make a difference whether you car runs lean/rich. you did the right thing. also that tear could let dirt in that your filter is suppose to stop.

  19. #19
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    Actually, different filters allow more air, or restrict air, when compared to others. However, they have nothing to do with metering the air/fuel charge. With the exception of having to richer/lean the fuel to match the air flow. You could take a filter off, and run with out it. You would have to adjust the carb to increase fuel (richer). The carb does the metering. A leak between the carb and engine would affect the air/fuel charge, as it would lean it out.

    Your right in correcting it, though. The unfiltered air would wreak havoc on a motor.
    No Honey, I have had this one for a long time....

  20. #20
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    okay but all i know is the air filter with the tear won't work on either engine where the one w/o will work on both i guess i'll just put the old 3.3 in my rustler for a bit of extreme over kill

  21. #21
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    just solved all of my problems it was the mip clutch the one with two settings one setting for more take off power (way to much causes the truck to creep forward) and a lesser setting to ease the take off (way to much slip, lets the engine rev way to high and over heat as a result) http://www.amazon.com/Clutch-Kit-TMX...rds=3.3+clutch so long story short i'm keeping my drivetrain stock it runs best that way

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