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  1. #1
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    3905 FLM Rebuild

    This should be interesting, just getting back into the hobby and bought some goodies since the stock chassis is getting trashed and the front bulkhead broken and not to mention, right rear aluminum eBay axle broke twice in one day (I had an extra from fronts which I never installed). I said screw it and bought these goodies


    It's pretty much all disassembled as you can see





    Now comes the fun part, putting it all back together on the unfamiliar FLM Chassis, which is bad by the way!!

    The best thing I did was buy the stainless steel screw kit from RC Raven. The stock screws were junk and rusted to



    Pretty much everything is aluminum except the A arms, axle stubs and front bumper which are RPM. Decided to also junk the stock plastic bell crank parts for GPM (coming from hong kong as we speak). Also front skid with an Evo 5 to match the rear. Trans plate is also an Evo 5. I have no idea on a color theme or new body but I fell in love with the Lime green dual rates from RC Raven which I have mounted to some 104mm eBay shocks.


    Well, time to build....

    First connection to the FLM is the rear FLM bulk and Integy towers, still waiting for GPM alum body mounts once again from over seas.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 10-11-2012 at 05:42 PM. Reason: post merge & language edit

  2. #2
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    nice, are you staying with green.
    Faskolor faspearl Key Lime backed with silver/chrome is nice colour.
    Guide books aren't part of the packaging.

  3. #3
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    Oh nice, that sounds yummy lol!!! I'll ck out that option

  4. #4
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    Integy towers???

    Why not just get some UEs? ten times the strength, and $35 a piece. How much were the integy ones?
    Doublethink: 2+2=4 while 2+2=0

  5. #5
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    The Integy EVO 5 shock towerss were much cheaper than the UE's. I think I paid $20 a piece I think and are pretty nice looking and havent broke yet, maybe havent bashed it enough! I have been sorta winging it when stuff breaks and upgrading to Aluminum or RPM stuff, but absolutley should have got diff shock towers, but I cant complain with the Integy's for now.

  6. #6
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    Just thought of something. What rear bumper works with the traxxas wheelie bar where the bar connects to the bumper?

  7. #7
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    not too sure, I think it only hooks onto the stock bumper, I can't use bumpers with my bulks unless i make something. But I'd like to have a wheelie bar fitted.
    Guide books aren't part of the packaging.

  8. #8
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    You cant run bumpers????
    Doublethink: 2+2=4 while 2+2=0

  9. #9
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    no you can't use bumpers with them. well not fitted properly anyway.
    Last edited by trax de max; 10-13-2012 at 07:24 PM.
    Guide books aren't part of the packaging.

  10. #10
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    I guess bumpers wouldn't matter unless you are going for looks.....

  11. #11
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    Can only fix the bottom bolts to the bulks, the top don't fit.
    There very strong. With high cost to go with it.
    As you can see the length is short where the bumper connects to bumber mount.


    Guide books aren't part of the packaging.

  12. #12
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    Why does it seem that the traxxas aluminum axles are too small. When the a arms flex the axles just about slip out of place. Here's a pic of the a arms in a neutral position. Those are RPM arms also. Is those normal?

  13. #13
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    screw in the pillow balls more.
    Guide books aren't part of the packaging.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by trax de max View Post
    screw in the pillow balls more.
    They are maxed out almost at binding point. I would think the cups that the new axles came with are the longer upgraded ones but not sure. Will have to measure them and compare with online specs. If not these might work from my eBay axles.


  15. #15
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    Much better, moving on..

  16. #16
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    the bad thing about longer cups is the edge rubs off the top arm when the trucks lifted and arms lowered.
    Yours maybe different but check anyway.
    Guide books aren't part of the packaging.

  17. #17
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    I see what you are saying, mine aren't too bad, after suspension install I will retest loaded. Getting there



    Last edited by lgtwhit; 10-16-2012 at 12:32 PM.

  18. #18
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    Looking good.

    Alot of people take an o-ring or a set of springs and put one in each end of the shaft to keep the dogbone in. I dont know if this will work with outdrives, but it workes with the center shafts.
    Doublethink: 2+2=4 while 2+2=0

  19. #19
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    That makes sense but looked like my eBay cups are perfect. Sux when you are rebuilding and things aren't perfect, but now life is good with no worries of an axle popping out.

  20. #20
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    Perfection would be really nice some times, but I suppose it would get boring after a while.
    Doublethink: 2+2=4 while 2+2=0

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by PowerToTheMaxx View Post
    Perfection would be really nice some times, but I suppose it would get boring after a while.
    I want this thing as perfect as I can since going brushless, I have yet to get through a full battery cycle lol!! Something always breaks.

  22. #22
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    Read popoxx build thread and copy his ideas. Breakage becomes near impossible unless you run 6s
    Doublethink: 2+2=4 while 2+2=0

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by PowerToTheMaxx View Post
    Read popoxx build thread and copy his ideas. Breakage becomes near impossible unless you run 6s
    I'll ck it out. That's the problem, I run 6s every run. I'm kind of xtreme with everything I do. Why run 4 or 5 when you can run 6 lol. Well, finally my last piece of the puzzle has arrived, some aluminum steering assemblies. Now, I need to figure out a body and paint theme for the new ride. I'm thinking ford raptor body in chrome or some neon color. I've always had dull colors such as black, orange and emaxx blue.



  24. #24
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    Steering assembly installed


  25. #25
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    Fully assembled still trying to figure out a body and color. Decided to take finishing pics with stock body since it looks much better with the line green springs. Weighing in around 12lbs without batteries.







  26. #26
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    That looks pretty sweet. Dont think the wheelie bar will last though...

    Those 0 ofset desparado wheels?
    Doublethink: 2+2=4 while 2+2=0

  27. #27
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    Those are axial beadlocks with 40 series Pro Line Mashers. The stock rear bumper looked horrible so I just shoved the wheelie bar down as far as I could to secure, but who knows.

    On a side note, stupid me put the front diff back in backwards causing the front tires to spin opposite the rears. Not sure the driveline would like that so much lol! I also think when I reconnected the servos, I didn't line them up since it won't turn right. I'm guessing they are maxed out to the right?

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by lgtwhit View Post
    Those are axial beadlocks with 40 series Pro Line Mashers. The stock rear bumper looked horrible so I just shoved the wheelie bar down as far as I could to secure, but who knows.

    On a side note, stupid me put the front diff back in backwards causing the front tires to spin opposite the rears. Not sure the driveline would like that so much lol! I also think when I reconnected the servos, I didn't line them up since it won't turn right. I'm guessing they are maxed out to the right?
    Won't turn right as in it's not turning correctly or it will turn left but not to the right?

    Best way is to zero out the steering trim on the Tx, turn everything on and let the servos center, then connect the horns to the servos.

  29. #29
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    Fixed, thank you!!!! Also, the wheels all turn in the same direction now, yaaaayyy!! Now just need time and daytime to run...

  30. #30
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    good looking maxx

  31. #31
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    Thanks 4sdash! I kept it pretty basic since I couldn't decide on a color combo, so mostly aluminum and black with some lime green dual rates! I need some suggestion on a body. I have 3 truck bodies (stock, Chevy Silverado and Top Truck). Something different but not too crazy.

  32. #32
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    Lgtwhit you have a pm...
    Sl4sh mmp2400 - savage flux hp XL - vorza flux hp

  33. #33
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    Just ran my FLM Maxx for the first time. New dual rate shocks work great on my eBay shocks. Had a pretty good run mostly street, grass and some dirt piles but had a ball joint pop out and bent the front Integy shock tower. Also damaged new GPM front left body post. Still haven't gotten through a complete battery cycle. Oh yeah, wheelie bar didn't stand a chance and flew off ten minutes into the run.



  34. #34
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    nasty bend but expected with the company.
    Why are your wheels facing the wrong way. the two left should be on the right and the two right should be on the left.
    Guide books aren't part of the packaging.

  35. #35
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    I suggest not using aluminum towers. I had flm towers and bent them. Of course I ran without a body and rolled it. I would look into getting rpm towers

    Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by trax de max View Post
    nasty bend but expected with the company.
    Why are your wheels facing the wrong way. the two left should be on the right and the two right should be on the left.
    Omg, you are right, switching them. Told you I was just getting back into the hobby lol!! Also, since I didn't have the wheelie bar connected to the bumper I had removed, the rear skid folded up towards the chassis. May be able to bend back and reconnect with bumper installed

    So guess RPM's is the way I'm gonna go for towers and posts. Aluminum looks nice but obviously not strong enough.

  37. #37
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    I knew integy was weak but never realized it was that bad. I feel for the people buying the ones integy rejects for poor quality. Yep theres a company that does that.
    I thought there was a reason the wheels were on different maybe more towards the crawling side than gravel surface.
    Yep rpm's the way, it won't look as nice thats for sure, but it works. I'm sure there is some decent metal skids somewhere i just can't remember who makes them. Or they might of made them themselves.
    Is your shocks still straight on the front?
    Guide books aren't part of the packaging.

  38. #38
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    Yeah, shocks made it through the bashing. Integy **** looks really nice but weak, weak, weak! I like the adjustability if the FLM's and the possibility of fitting diff shocks so just purchased those. FLM's website will cover them under warranty if they break or bend, so win there also. Also bought some extended proline body posts. The aluminum ones I purchased are killed already after one run, so plastic is the way to go here. Now, once again waiting for more parts to come in.
    I also popped ball joint back into rpm knuckles. All is good there.

  39. #39
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    Who/what MFG did you get the servo saver from?

    Get some of the Nitro Revo carriers with the steel rings around the pillow ball opening, pop the rings off the stock carriers & pop them onto the RPM carriers you have to keep the pillows balls from popping out on you.
    TRX #5334R Carrier


    Keep the plastic body posts, I'd rather mangle a bunch of cheep plastic posts then the towers.

    RC Solutions makes some nice nice skids, & some RPM wear plates over them makes a great combo.
    http://shop.rc-solutions.com/T-Maxx-...-Front-013.htm
    http://shop.rc-solutions.com/T-Maxx-...e-Rear-014.htm

    The skids you have will work, just cut the ends of them down & put some RPM wear plates over them.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  40. #40
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    Ya, RC solutions are spring steel, so they wont get bent, just bend and spring back. Very nice feture. RPM towers wont stand up to that, ask popoxx. You need UE Kunclehead towers. Theyre pretty strong and were on sale for $35 last time I checked.

    Get some ST racing aluminum REVO knuckles. Pretty strong, and they shouldnt pop like that. You would probally snap the pillow ball or the a-arm before you broke through the ST racing ones.
    Doublethink: 2+2=4 while 2+2=0

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