Results 1 to 21 of 21
  1. #1
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    65

    better steering response

    Hey all i have been looking around for lil tips on steering enhancement. Im currently racing on carpet track. i noticed the front shock tower and front bulkhead have a LOT of play. I know this is good for when bashing and saving from doing worse damage. But would it be best if i had replaced both with STRC metal parts and taking that movement away allow for better handle and steering?
    thanks for the feedbacks everyone
    just-in-case

  2. #2
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    112
    I know what you mean about all the play up there. I bought some shims and I put them in when the play gets to be too much.

    I did see that Proline sells a sweet bell crank system. You should check that out.

    Good luck!!

  3. #3
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    El Cajon Ca
    Posts
    1,804
    I upgraded one of my Slashes to the 4 wd bell crank and went in real nicely.

    I have changed out the stock shock tower to the RPM which has less flex but is still forgiving on high impact situations. A metal on might bend and usually weakends after straighting...Just MO

    When the bell crank in my other Slash shows wear I will replace that one as well with the 4 wd one.
    "enjoy your ride"

    Dennis

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    PM me if ya wanna bash at Greenwood Bashplex in Pittsburgh PA
    Posts
    13,345
    A proline front tower will take some of that play out, but not all.

    Many things could be making the steering unresponsive and there are many things to try to improve it.
    I need to know a couple things about your setup to try to give you some actions to take.

    What tires ft and rear?
    Which belcrank(black or white)?
    What servo?
    What camber/toe settings ft and rear?
    What shocks/springs/oil wt are you using?
    What battery, and is it mounted toward the ft or rear?

    Sometimes it can be as simple as moving the battery forward, a tire change, or a couple of added spring spacers. It can get complex, but sometimes a simple change can make a big difference.
    Last edited by rag6; 11-13-2012 at 08:20 PM.
    Wanna bash at Greenwood Bashplex in Pittsburgh ???

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Dallas
    Posts
    566
    +1 on Rag. Also, if you have a metal gear servo, don't run any sort of servo saver, especially on carpet. The stock servo savers are very mushy, the 4x4 saver isn't much better. I use a glued 4x4 bellcrank, and yes, I am replacing my servo gears right now. I would really like to try that slick Hot Racing setup with adjustable spring tension. Anyway, a good servo and no mush makes a huge difference.

  6. #6
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    65
    thanks for the feedback. rag6. im currently running my stock slash on the carpet track my tires are stock traxxas goodwrench, with stock 2075 tx servo. with 50wt rear shock oil/40wt front oil. my battery 5000mah 40c genace lipo and is located more to to front to get a better bite. but im also trying to get control with all my 2wd slash's. I see what "orca44" was saying about the metal becoming bent if hit to hard im mostly a RPM fan. As fro proline i truly forgot about there new list of goodies too. thank you all again.
    just-in-case

  7. #7
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Alberta Canada
    Posts
    896
    I have the STRC shock tower and TRX Bell crank and Dynamite Servo Saver and that seems to work really well. I've heard lots of good things about the pro line as well, the servo saver is built in and adjustable on the bell crank.

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Dallas
    Posts
    566
    You could probably go much heavier on the springs and oil weights on carpet to speed up response,and a faster servo will be very noticeable. Raising the rear roll center by moving the rear camber link to the top hole on the shock tower will free the car up some, toe-out up front will speed up turn in. On high traction, smooth tracks, limiting droop somewhat will help reduce body roll and make the car react faster. At some point, the high COG will be a problem, but with stock tires, you should be able to tune around it.

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    PM me if ya wanna bash at Greenwood Bashplex in Pittsburgh PA
    Posts
    13,345
    The black slash 4x4 bell crank is adjustable, but it is a Mickey Mouse Mod setup to adjust it, but you can overcome the weak spring and not so ideal 4wd to 2wd geometry by a couple of methods.

    You could just pick up a proline bell crack to have adjustable saver tension and improved geometry, but if on a budget, the stock 4x4 crank crank can be worked for improvement for almost no cost.
    Last edited by rag6; 11-14-2012 at 09:18 PM.
    Wanna bash at Greenwood Bashplex in Pittsburgh ???

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    PM me if ya wanna bash at Greenwood Bashplex in Pittsburgh PA
    Posts
    13,345
    Quote Originally Posted by Blaster75 View Post
    You could probably go much heavier on the springs and oil weights on carpet to speed up response,and a faster servo will be very noticeable. Raising the rear roll center by moving the rear camber link to the top hole on the shock tower will free the car up some, toe-out up front will speed up turn in. On high traction, smooth tracks, limiting droop somewhat will help reduce body roll and make the car react faster. At some point, the high COG will be a problem, but with stock tires, you should be able to tune around it.
    Stiffening up the ft springs and oil on carpet usually reduces steering response. This of course depends on the original setup, and also depends on the rear setup. Its all relative, and the reason I asked the specific questions to the OP.
    Wanna bash at Greenwood Bashplex in Pittsburgh ???

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    South of St Louis
    Posts
    6,062
    I'm following this with some interest, I have no experience with indoor racing, only outdoor dirt tracks.

    Does he need a faster servo, or open up his end points for more servo travel?
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  12. #12
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    El Cajon Ca
    Posts
    1,804
    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    The black slash 4x4 bell crank is adjustable, but it is a Mickey Mouse Mod setup to adjust it, but you can overcome the weak spring and not so ideal 4wd to 2wd geometry by a couple of methods.

    but if on a budget, the stock 4x4 crank crank can be worked for improvement for almost no cost.
    Since I do have the 4x4 bell crank on one of my 2wd Slashes I would be very interested on how to improve the bell crank....So if you can spare the time I would "be your best friend" LOL if you could share that information....
    "enjoy your ride"

    Dennis

  13. #13
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    65
    hey O.G yeah i would like a faster servo but i can only have all stock slash . as for my other slashes i have high TQ .08 sec servos .. thanks tho
    just-in-case

  14. #14
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Dallas
    Posts
    566
    I meant to say stiffen both front and rear equal amounts to keep the balance (if you are happy with it), to minimize chassis movement overall, although my experience with off road carpet is limited to a gold tub RC10 in the early '90s. IIRC, I ran very little droop, heavy springs and oils, and a fairly low ride height. It wasn't a very long experiment, and the "jumps" were more like bumps.

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    South of St Louis
    Posts
    6,062
    Quote Originally Posted by amsoil07 View Post
    hey O.G yeah i would like a faster servo but i can only have all stock slash . as for my other slashes i have high TQ .08 sec servos .. thanks tho
    That's a bummer. My track allows an upgraded servo for stock class.
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    PM me if ya wanna bash at Greenwood Bashplex in Pittsburgh PA
    Posts
    13,345
    Quote Originally Posted by orca44 View Post
    Since I do have the 4x4 bell crank on one of my 2wd Slashes I would be very interested on how to improve the bell crank....So if you can spare the time I would "be your best friend" LOL if you could share that information....
    Stiffer spring:
    Basically you can stiffen the crank spring by putting a spacer under it. I used 2 traxxas body washers, and cut them down to fit into the lower spring cup under the spring. It is very hard to get the crank back together with the washers under there, but took away the slushy feeling weak steering response on carpet. That was the cheapest option. You can also buy an emaxx bell crank setup (think its around 15$ at my lhs) and use the heavier spring. This is much easier, but more costly. 3rd option is one of the adjustable 2wd cranks avail from proline, strc etc... These are the most expensive, but may also have the different crank geometry like the original 2wd cranks.

    The original 2x4 crank:


    The 4x4 crank geometry:


    As you can see the cranks are at a different angle.
    The 4x4's are like "\ /"
    The 2x4's are like " l l "

    I modified the 4x4 crank to have the 2x4 geometry. I removed the center link(red in the pic above) and made an adjustable link(green, think it was 48mm eye to eye, and got the idea from a thread over at urc, Dr Isotope I think it was) to pull the cranks in to match the 2x4 geometry. Had to cut the top off of the 4x4 crank "ears" to get the link to fit under the chassis.

    These are the "ears" I cut off:




    After these 2 mods, I lost all mushyness and twitchyness that I experienced with the 4x4 crank, disappeared. This was on carpet, where very fine, small adjustments can show up as big performance gains. You may never notice these mods if you are just bashing on every day surfaces for fun. One thing is for sure, after the mods I was able to turn under every "race" truck on the track, and all these "race" truck owners were asking me how I could just dive under them, with a slash,under power, at will.
    Last edited by rag6; 11-18-2012 at 05:53 PM.
    Wanna bash at Greenwood Bashplex in Pittsburgh ???

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    PM me if ya wanna bash at Greenwood Bashplex in Pittsburgh PA
    Posts
    13,345
    Quote Originally Posted by Blaster75 View Post
    I meant to say stiffen both front and rear equal amounts to keep the balance (if you are happy with it), to minimize chassis movement overall, although my experience with off road carpet is limited to a gold tub RC10 in the early '90s. IIRC, I ran very little droop, heavy springs and oils, and a fairly low ride height. It wasn't a very long experiment, and the "jumps" were more like bumps.
    Ok, now I get it. You are exactly right. Ft to rear balance is a big key. Having balance, and keeping that balance as you adjust the setup is a big factor in being consistent.
    Wanna bash at Greenwood Bashplex in Pittsburgh ???

  18. #18
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Dallas
    Posts
    566
    If you are restricted to a stock servo, you can gain speed while sacrificing some torque by making/finding a longer servo arm. Of course, you will have to adjust your endpoints to prevent over travel. Again, limiting servo saver action (while still having enough to actually protect the plastic gears for as long as you deem acceptable) sharpens things quite a bit. The fun/frustrating thing about any kind of "spec" class, whether it's "Blinky 17.5" or NHRA Stock, is that you have to be smarter (take more risks) than your competitors to gain performance advantage. Longetivity has to take a back seat to performance, and sometimes, experiments don't work or are outlawed as soon as a few people find out. Spec racing at an average level is cheap, spec racing at a high level can be very, very expensive.

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    PM me if ya wanna bash at Greenwood Bashplex in Pittsburgh PA
    Posts
    13,345
    True. The longer servo arm will do no good without a stiffer saver spring. Lower torque also means slower steering response under hard cornering conditions.
    Wanna bash at Greenwood Bashplex in Pittsburgh ???

  20. #20
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    El Cajon Ca
    Posts
    1,804
    Thanks for your response rag6

    Your upgrade looks very good and I will give that a go after the Thanksgiving holiday... Even put it in my favorites!!!!
    "enjoy your ride"

    Dennis

  21. #21
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    65
    thanks for the tips Rag6 i tried the washer spacing. That is one tricky thing to get together only took twenty mins LOL. It sure made my car handle nicer on the carpet track. Im ordering the 4x4 bellcrank for my other 2wd slash thats a mod this week. Thanks again everyone for the tip's.. ROCK ON
    just-in-case

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •