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  1. #1
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
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    5

    Slash Beginner guide ?

    Hey everyone,

    I just had a slash 4x4 RTR yesterday from my girlfriend (bless her heart)
    I'm looking for a beginner guide for this car.
    A little back story :
    I had a tamiya manta ray in the 90s, and a T-maxx 1.0 about ten years ago.
    I moved to nitro because of the poor run times of the electric batteries back then...
    Usually I could go 4-5 minutes with a 1700 battery back in the days with the Tamiya... This killed all the fun.
    I just loved the fact that with the T-maxx I could drive for 30+ minutes, just filling the tank once in a while
    But now where I live (near Paris), nitro engines are forbidden in public places (woods etc..)
    So now I have my brand new slash, went with it in the woods with friends, and had a blast.
    15 minutes with the stock battery, 30 minutes with a 4400 one.
    Nothing broke, the truck is fun to drive. Not crazy fast or anything, just fun. Lots of torque, nice handling and drifts everywhere.
    All my friends LOVED it. It seems soon I won't be alone to own one.

    So I have a couple questions for you experts :

    I want to BASH the truck, no race, no runs, just random fun in the woods.
    I don't want it to go any faster.
    What should I do? What should I buy ? I want it easy to maintain

    I have the stock battery and a 4400. The charger is slow however.
    So that's gonna be the first buy.

    What are the pieces most likely to break with a standard nimh battery ? (no crazy power here)

    how do you jump without going nose first ?

    What tires can give me better traction on mud? The stock ones are "flat" from all the dirt that gets inside the patterns... Maybe 1/8 buggy tires?

    Thanks for any input, sorry for the bad english (french here )

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. kdvanb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Grassie Ontario Canada
    Posts
    3,136
    Rpm a-arms and aluminum bearing adapter. As for charger an onyx 245 and when you want to go lipo you can
    Slash 2wd, Slash 4x4, 30th digger, Rustler VXL

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. kdvanb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Grassie Ontario Canada
    Posts
    3,136
    Rpm a-arms and aluminum bearing adapter. As for charger an onyx 245 and when you want to go lipo you can
    Slash 2wd, Slash 4x4, 30th digger, Rustler VXL

  4. #4
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    110
    in order:

    first mod/investment most people make are shocks. with the stock ones the shafts bend too easily, caps pops off frequently, and its all plastic construction. traxxas has 2 upgrades to offer. big bores have thicker shocks, metal construction...now they have the gtr shocks and the shafts get even bigger, though i havnt researched them to see what other benefits they have over the "big bore" shocks, theyre just better.
    i chose proline powerstroke shocks and im very happy with them. they have progressive spring rates (2 different springs on each shock) and shaft size is beefy. my local track has them for $40 for fronts, $40 for rears. they offer spring kits for $20 for front, $20 for rear. dont forget to add oil to the price list, most people run 2 different viscosities front vs rear but i usually run same in all 4 corners...but i have about 6 different thicknesses for tuning different terrain/driving preferences.

    next on the basher list is rpm control arm...stock ones are cheap'ish, $10 bucks for a set for front. but rpm brand will flex a bit better and i only read great things about them not breaking. the good thing is, rpm are about 15 for the fronts, 15 for the rears. so, control arms would be first on my list for a budget build.

    youll want to invest in another body, ill bet the stocker lasts about 2 weeks. mine lasted 1 week but i was a total newb and was running a track with fairly large jumps...so i understand your nose dive headaches.

    batteries and chargers, too in-depth to get into. my biggest regret with batteries, not going to lipos to start with. i have 4 venom 5000mah and the stock 3000...each charge takes about 45 min. consider buying a dual charger to charge 2 at once. also, while youre shopping for chargers, make sure you buy one that can change from nimh to lipo incase you ever consider upgrading in the future (that was another mistake i made, my charger is nimh only) hobby king dot com is super cheap and ive only read a few bad stories about their chargers, but for the price, you cant beat em. batteries are going to be a headache to learn/research. im still learning so thats why i have no real good advice on that.

    you shouldnt be breaking batteries...period. ive had some BAD wrecks, REALLY bad, and never had a single problem. the only thing ive seen on the track is maybe solder points giving out or wires getting exposed, nothing serious.

    jumping without nose-diving...do NOT hit the brake...try not to let off the throttle very hard. this was my hardest learning experience with this truck and why im on my 4th body now. youll get the hang of it, just practice holding the throttle past the jump (not wide open) but not too much where it rear dives either. depending on the jump youll have to feather where your letting off...some jumps will require a little brake in order to land at the proper angle.

    tires-go to proline's website, they have a huge selection and decent prices. i would guess trenchers are what style youre looking for (somewhat knobby tire)

    oh, and sorry that youre french
    Last edited by supradrew; 11-11-2012 at 06:48 PM.

  5. #5
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    5
    Hey everyone, thanks for all the advice.
    So far so good, I'm on my third 1 hour run and nothing broke
    (If you were in this hobby in the 80/90s you know it's a big relief )
    I didn't pay attention to the terrain I was running on, but it turns out to be mostly sand.
    After today's run the truck was making this dreadful "sand crunching in your transmission" noise.
    Tonight I had my first cleaning of the truck, removed the front and rear assembly and cleaned/wd40/greased all the gears.
    Still some crunching noise in the slipper clutch bearing, but not much I can do about it without doing some homework on how exactly to maintain it.
    I'll come back to you with updates, vids and pics
    Thanks again !

  6. #6
    RC Enthusiast
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    Dec 2011
    Location
    Southeast | Georgia
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    31

  7. #7
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    friendswood texas
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    1,234
    Its not a matter of if but when you go lipo. I bought my first rc last May and said it is fast enough on nimh. I have 2 brand new 3s lipo sitting here waiting for me to get time from work to brake em in and its killing me.

  8. #8
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Spirit Lake, Iowa
    Posts
    76
    Some of the big durability issues with the Slash 4x4 is the motor mount bearing, slipper clutch bearing adapter, and the drive shafts. What I recommend, and what I run, is to buy the King Headz motor mount and the King Headz aluminum slipper bearing adapter. The King Headz mount has an oversized bearing in it that is less prone to failure and if it does, a second one is included with it. The stock plastic bearing adapter is known for melting when the motor mount bearing fails, and the aluminum will resist failure if the bearing fails. The outer drive shafts are plastic and are ok for a beginner basher, though through repeated high traction launches and breaking the u-joints in them will start to "egg out" and loosen and eventually break. They're about $10 American and are readily available online and at most hobby stores. The part number is TRA6851 for the front and TRA6852 for the rear. A common upgrade for bashers is to upgrade MIP steel constant velocity drives, or cvds. They're roughly $60-65 American per set, with a set being 2axels for front or two axles for rear, and can be found readily online. Traxxas has released their own upgraded steel cvds that retail for $80 per set, but can be found elsewhere online for less. The part number for those is TRA6852R for rears and TRA6851R for fronts. As for a charger, I too recommend the Duratrax Onyx. I have the Onyx 235, it only charges one battery at a time, but a slightly more budget friendly alternative. It has 10 different programmable battery memory profiles so you don't have to reprogram for every different battery that you use. It has balance charging for lithium based batteries, and peak charging for nickle batteries. For the tires, personally, I would recommend Dynamite Speedtreads Breakaways. Dynamite doesn't have the reputation behind it that Proline or JConcepts might have, but for the price you can't beat them, in my opinion. I have a set of Dynamite Speedtreads Robbers that are an on-road style that I race with as well as their Breakaways, which are an off-road all terrain sort of style. I am fully blown away by these tires. With the Breakaways I was able to wheelie in loose sod with just the stock Velineon system on a 2s LiPo and carry it for a short distance. The only thing I would recommend with these is, if you have prior experience, to buy the tires separately and mount them onto a Proline or JConcepts wheel. While the tires are great, the wheels just don't seem to be cast very true, although it's not a real issue, more of a nuisance. Sorry for the novel-length reply, but I hope my advice helps you. Une merveilleuse journée!

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