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  1. #1
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    Nov 2012
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    NiMH battery melting plastic

    Hi everyone, just to start this out I am a noobi here and to the hobby, I bought a used Pede vxl4x4 about 3 months ago it already had the rpm a arms aluminum resavoir shocks and rpm bumpers . I went ahead and bought an onyx 5000 8.4v 7cell hump pack, well after about 8 runs over a months time the battery got so hot it melted the plastic cover and would no longer take a charge, then about 3 weeks ago I went and bought a new body, mil rear steel drive shafts trencher tires same size as factory body lowering kit aluminum hexs and a new battery same as 1st one, well 3rd run on it and it did the same thing now all my bearings seam to b fine and my motor and esc are not hot but just the battery pack. I was running on mowed grass bother times and my gears are stock, please help me get this figured out so I can enjoy my pede and stop buying battery packs, thanks for any help

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Jan 2011
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    When you drive to grass, you put quite some stress to your motor and ESC, which means that the battery will have to work to the max. Since NiMH batteries deliver less amps than Lipo batteries, they will be pushed to their limits sooner. With the result of heating up. And that can be so bad that the plastic wrap will melt.

    You can go a few directions:
    - stay off the grass,
    - user a lighter gearing (smaller pinion gear or larger spur gear) to reduce stress on motor and ESC -> less amps needed,
    - step up to Lipo, which in general can deliver more amps.

    And not to forget: Welcome to this great place!
    Nobody is born with experience

  3. #3
    RC Racer
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    Oct 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gerks View Post
    Hi everyone, just to start this out I am a noobi here and to the hobby, I bought a used Pede vxl4x4 about 3 months ago it already had the rpm a arms aluminum resavoir shocks and rpm bumpers . I went ahead and bought an onyx 5000 8.4v 7cell hump pack, well after about 8 runs over a months time the battery got so hot it melted the plastic cover and would no longer take a charge, then about 3 weeks ago I went and bought a new body, mil rear steel drive shafts trencher tires same size as factory body lowering kit aluminum hexs and a new battery same as 1st one, well 3rd run on it and it did the same thing now all my bearings seam to b fine and my motor and esc are not hot but just the battery pack. I was running on mowed grass bother times and my gears are stock, please help me get this figured out so I can enjoy my pede and stop buying battery packs, thanks for any help
    I use the same battery in my rustler vxl.I have noticed that anytime the motor and esc get to 165 plus degrees that the battery starts rising past them due to the extra resistance plus the battery capacity getting lower.I have melted one of mine also but it still works good.you need a temp gun so you can check your temps.smaller tires don't work good in grass.I put trenchers on my rustler and was able to gear back up to 25/83 without overheating.when you make changes on your truck you have to check temps again so a temp gun is a must. Troy
    anyone have an extra truck,I broke mine again

  4. #4
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    Apr 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by troylynch View Post
    I use the same battery in my rustler vxl.I have noticed that anytime the motor and esc get to 165 plus degrees that the battery starts rising past them due to the extra resistance plus the battery capacity getting lower.I have melted one of mine also but it still works good.you need a temp gun so you can check your temps.smaller tires don't work good in grass.I put trenchers on my rustler and was able to gear back up to 25/83 without overheating.when you make changes on your truck you have to check temps again so a temp gun is a must. Troy
    This is a Stampede VXL 4X4. The biggest spur you can put on is a 54T. If you run on grass, you will need a 9T pinion and definately need a fan on your ESC and heat sink on your motor. You will fry one or both if you don't set it up that way for grass. You'll still need to monitor your temps if you run real hard with a lot of stopping /starting at full acceleration.

  5. #5
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    Nov 2012
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    I have read a lot about the temps of the motor and esc, but the bad thing is when my second battery went the other day, neither motor or esc were hot, I could lay my finger both of them and not get burned, as for setting up for lipo, I do want to switch over to 3s, with all the upgrades I have on it already what else d I need other then fan for esc and fan/heat sink for motor, I know I need to buy a lipo charger

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier
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    Dec 2010
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    Edmonton, AB (and looking for an RC buddy. PM me if you're from NE Edmonton!)
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gerks View Post
    I have read a lot about the temps of the motor and esc, but the bad thing is when my second battery went the other day, neither motor or esc were hot, I could lay my finger both of them and not get burned, as for setting up for lipo, I do want to switch over to 3s, with all the upgrades I have on it already what else d I need other then fan for esc and fan/heat sink for motor, I know I need to buy a lipo charger
    I'd recommend getting a 2s Lipo first. 3s is a handful for both driver and car. And it's almost guaranteed that running 3s the way you do (grass) will cause the demise of your motor and speed control. If you try 2s and want more, you'll likely have to upgrade your power system as well.
    Sig edited for awesomeness. NC

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Try 2s like the guys have said you will love it but if you go 3s gear down to a 9t and get fans for esc and motorAnd dont forget the alu bearing adapter part no. 6893x and run the slipper lose........peace
    Famous last words...watch this!!!!

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