MITCH316 eSlay-Revo Build

[MITCH316]

I would like to thank Cameron for pointing me in the right direction for this build...I decided to start a new thread for my eSlay-Revo and keep it separate from my eRevo build.

Here is a link to my eRevo build and my Summit build

I have been sitting on this project for a good few months now as I got fairly involved in rebuilding my eRevo up to a point where I am happy with my truck; I finally got there and have had a chance to start this build today.

Here is all the bits to build a roller...; I am going with the Slayer Pro A-Arms on this build.



I am going with a black chassis as well on this build...I dyed my rockers and chassis in black Rit dye back in mid August along with my eRevo parts.

[MITCH316]

I am going to re-post this again for those who haven't seen it.

Here is a comparison of different Rit dye chassis that I have done. In the pic below is black on the left and scarlet red on the right. I've used the scarlet red chassis in my Summit build.



My method of Rit Dyeing
To rid dye I would add the whole packet of dye, (I use the powder rit dye), in as much water as I need and mix the powder until all dissolved in the water. I would add my parts along with 500ml of vinegar and leave to over the stove top with low heat. I would keep it at a low heat for a minimum of 2hrs.

I never let the water boil once...when I saw a few bubbles appear I would lower the heat or turn off.

This is my dye bath I use...I got it down at the local hardware store for $12. They call it a galvanised bucket here in Australia.

[4sdash]

hey question i have problem with seeing certain colors is the one in the middle gray or is that white and if its white how did you make that happen

[MITCH316]

hey question i have problem with seeing certain colors is the one in the middle gray or is that white and if its white how did you make that happen

I must apologies for my poor quality photos...I use my camera phone for all my photos and when the light quality is poor it doesn't take such great photos. I should have mentioned in the post above that the centre chassis is the stock grey.

The black and Scarlett red were just for comparison of the colours I had used and what they would look like dyed over the grey.

[4sdash]

Its not your fault man i appreciate the info

[humayrayakongkinaon]

yey!!!! let the fun build begins......

[MITCH316]

I am using the ST Racing diff case #ST5380B and the Hot Racing diff cup #RVO11C01 on my eSlay-Revo build.

They were fairly pricey to purchase; but these were bought at the time where I just seemed to strip my diff gears on a regular bases with my eRevo...at the time I rebuilt my eRevo I was in search of a bullet proof diff build but ended up doing the Losi mod instead.

I knew they wouldn't go to waste as I had the intention of building me eSlay-Revo for some time .

Here is the St racing diff case.




Here is the Hot Racing diff cup.
.

My first impression of the ST Racing diff case is that it is well machined and is a very nice snug fit in the bulkhead...after my experience with the Losi diff aluminium diff case I am confident that this will improve the life of my diff on this build .

The Hot Racing diff cup is very solid and a nice fit inside the diff case...I am looking forward to putting the diff cup and case through some good harsh testing.

I will post some videos and give some feedback of the tests I put these diffs through, and if this was a worthy upgrade .

[MITCH316]

The I-Bar is not a direct fit in the diff cup and required a slight mod to fit. I rounded off the corners on a belt sander as seen below. That is a comparison of a stock I-Bar to the one that has been modded.





As you can see it has been rounded quite significantly...you could probably achieve the same result with a grinder or dremel. It didn't take me long to do both; roughly 5 minutes or so .

The I-Bar fits in the diff cup nice and snug...with the spider gears in place it seems to be very solid and strong .

[Mugs]

Coming along nicely mate. Can't wait to test it against the slash

[IvVaum]

*eating popcorn anxiously awaiting the next post*...

[afol2524]

Beware with those Hot racing Cups!! I put two in my e-revo, properly shimmed, running x2 2s lipos and with in the first 5 min of my first run with them i blew a hole right threw one of them. the spider gears on the inside grenaded and a chunk of gear went right threw the side of the cup.

Upon inspection of the cup it looked like the spiders were grinding and wearing a way at the inside of the cup, you could see where the black anodizing had be rubbed off. in my opion they are horrible cups, but i hope you have better luck with them

I ended up going witht eh FLM Cups, and they are awesome.

[humayrayakongkinaon]

i need the HR diff cup for my REVO-E. i know HR diff cup comes with its own gasket but can you also use the one from traxxas?

[humayrayakongkinaon]

Beware with those Hot racing Cups!! I put two in my e-revo, properly shimmed, running x2 2s lipos and with in the first 5 min of my first run with them i blew a hole right threw one of them. the spider gears on the inside grenaded and a chunk of gear went right threw the side of the cup.

Upon inspection of the cup it looked like the spiders were grinding and wearing a way at the inside of the cup, you could see where the black anodizing had be rubbed off. in my opion they are horrible cups, but i hope you have better luck with them

I ended up going witht eh FLM Cups, and they are awesome.

even with the i beam inside?

[afol2524]

even with the i beam inside?

Yes even with the i beam, i did the same thing, i ground it down to get it to fit just right.
it just couldnt hold up to tourque i guess

when you hold the cup up to the light you can clearly see the whole, lighting shinning perfectly through. it was actually pretty cool, but it sucked cause i got less then a 5 min run with them.

[IvVaum]

wow...hmmm...i'm using the HR cup and e-revo spider gears with the robinson racing gear n pinion in mine...so far it's hold ing ok...but i'm breaking it in slowly...no hard bashing or high torquing...i've had about 5 runs of around 30min on it and so far nothing has broken yet...it took me forever to shim the darn thing though (pulled an all nighter) and i think it's that shimming that is keeping it together...

if and when it breaks...i'll post it up on here and go the losi route...

Beware with those Hot racing Cups!! I put two in my e-revo, properly shimmed, running x2 2s lipos and with in the first 5 min of my first run with them i blew a hole right threw one of them. the spider gears on the inside grenaded and a chunk of gear went right threw the side of the cup.

Upon inspection of the cup it looked like the spiders were grinding and wearing a way at the inside of the cup, you could see where the black anodizing had be rubbed off. in my opion they are horrible cups, but i hope you have better luck with them

I ended up going witht eh FLM Cups, and they are awesome.

[MITCH316]

Beware with those Hot racing Cups!! I put two in my e-revo, properly shimmed, running x2 2s lipos and with in the first 5 min of my first run with them i blew a hole right threw one of them. the spider gears on the inside grenaded and a chunk of gear went right threw the side of the cup.

Upon inspection of the cup it looked like the spiders were grinding and wearing a way at the inside of the cup, you could see where the black anodizing had be rubbed off. in my opion they are horrible cups, but i hope you have better luck with them

I ended up going witht eh FLM Cups, and they are awesome.

That's the first I have heard of that mate ...interesting. I know a few people that run them and have had no issues with the diff cup failing.

[MITCH316]

i need the HR diff cup for my REVO-E. i know HR diff cup comes with its own gasket but can you also use the one from traxxas?

I don't think it will be an issue using the traxxas gasket...I haven't tried tho .

[MITCH316]

As said in post #2...I will give these diff cups and diff case a good test to see if it was a worthy upgrade...

^^^...Thanks for all the feedback and comments guys .

[MITCH316]

I used a mixture of 30K and 10K diff lube on this build.

Front diff was 3/4 30K and a 1/4 10k mixture and the Rear diff was 1/4 30K and 3/4 10K mixture. I am using the thinner weight diff lube as this truck is going to be set up more for race style bashing.

I filled the diff lube to the top of the diff cup and removed as much of the air bubbles as practically possible.



I then fitted the ring gear and tightened 3 of the 4 screws leaving the 4th one out to allow excess diff lube to escape through the open screw hole.



I then greased the ring gear with Mobil 1 red grease and closed up the diff case.



Once together the gear mesh was relatively smooth...made for easy installation.

[MITCH316]

At the time I did my Losi diff mod on my eRevo there were a lot of questions going around on diff shimming...I gathered some people were battling to get their head around the whole concept on how to shim there diffs.

In my front diff I am using a brand new set of gears and in the rear, a used set from my eRevo before I replaced them with the Losi mod. They have only had about 3 x 2/3s battery run of use.

Front Diff
The diff cup required 2 x (10 x 0.3mm) shims



The pinion required 2 x (6mm x 0.3mm) shims



I found that this was the only shimming necessary for the front diff.

Rear Diff

I shimmed 1 x Traxxas 3982 Teflon Washer (6 x 0.5mm) on the ring gear side of the diff output CV drive gear.



The diff cup required 1 x (10 x 0.3mm) shims



The pinion required 3 x (6mm x 0.3mm) shims



I also added a 6mm o-ring to the outside of the diff on the pinion gear as to eliminate any play that the pinion develops over time, this is to try and prolong the life of the gears.



I am quite happy with the shimming...Gear mesh is relatively smooth; a slight bit of binding with ring and pinion in the front diff but once broken in should be OK...this build will only run 2/2s.

I hope this info helps any of you who have been battling to shim diffs as I say a picture always speaks a thousand words .

[IvVaum]

eh?...i don't remember having to do this on mine when i was shimming and installing the robinson racing gear...



is it necessary?...when i ordered mine...it didn't come with it...or am i just brain dead from staying up all night?

[MITCH316]

That's an extra shim I put in and it was added to the rear diff only as this gear set had come out my eRevo. A new traxxas diff comes stock with the shim in the diff cup on the diff cup side.

When I built the diff there was still to much play on the spider gears even with the stock shim in place on the diff cup side...so I added 1 x Traxxas 3982 Teflon Washer (6 x 0.5mm) shim to the opposite side as shown above and the play was eliminated.

As you see in the pics for the front diff shimming that this shim was not added...it only has the stock shim in the diff cup on the diff cup side as per the traxxas diff.

I should of mentioned that in the post above that BOTH diff cups have the stock shim in them as per the stock traxxas diff.

These pics were only a guide as to how you COULD shim a diff and I though it was a good example as both diffs were shimmed differently from each other .

Both diffs were properly shimmed before any diff lube or grease was added.

[IvVaum]

oh i c...ok...that makes sense....i though i might have messed up somewhere...thanks for the clear up...and keep up the good work...

[MITCH316]

I found with my experience that the stock plastic pivot ball caps have a nasty habit of working themselves loose.

I wanted to use these as seen below; Integy aluminium pivot ball caps #T3119S as they have an o-ring fitted in the threaded area...I used these on my eRevo before I rebuilt my truck but since then have transferred onto my Summit. I found these to be a snug fit and have never had one work itself loose.



I couldn't find the ones above so I bought these...These are the Integy Evo3 aluminium pivot ball caps #T3205BLUE which still has an o-ring fitted in the in the threaded area; its not as thick as the one pictured above.



To install I smeared a bead of grease around the threaded area and o-ring...It makes it easy to screw in to the axle carrier (knuckle) and a nice smooth fit.



After I had installed all the pivot ball caps into the axle carriers, I took the stock pivot ball cap boot and pushed into the cap ends. Again it is a very nice snug fit.



I hope I have great success with these as I did with the ones I used on my eRevo...I will give these a good test and give my feed back as to whether or not if this was a worthy upgrade .

[MITCH316]

Progress is slow...thought I had everything ordered. I am still missing a few odds and ends. In comparison with my eRevo chassis and A-Arm mounted this truck looks tiny.

[Redsawacs]

I'm interested to see the final weigh in...bet it will weigh less than my slayer.

I like what I see so far - keep us posted

[Double A21]

I built one and i bet it close or weighs more once you add the lipos to it

[MITCH316]

I'm interested to see the final weigh in...bet it will weigh less than my slayer.

I like what I see so far - keep us posted

Thanks mate...I'll let you know what the weight turns out to be with lipos once the build is complete.

[MITCH316]

I stripped down the new shocks to change the weight of the shock oil and added the VDP to each shock.



The shock oil I had on hand was a 50K and 35K weight...I wanted something in between so I made a 50/50 mix of the 2 weights for each shock.

This is the VDP kit with valve on top, I am using piston #3 in front and piston #2 in the rear.



I then filled my shocks up with the mixture of oil I made...I moved the piston up an down to let any trapped air bubble escape.

Here is an image of how full I made the shock before putting the bladder back in place and the rest of the shock back together.



The end result, a nice clean and easy rebuild.

[adamargue91]

What's the vdp kit do?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2

[MITCH316]

What's the vdp kit do?

The variable dampening piston kit allows you to enhance the tuning ability of your suspension by controlling compression and rebound rate of the shocks. As you see below it has a valve flap which can either go above as shown or on the underside depending on how you want your shocks to work.

Traxxas #5461


The valve flap has closed 2 of the 4 holes seen in the pic...the way I have mine set allows me to control the compression rate of the shock .

[adamargue91]

Thanks for the explanation

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2

[MITCH316]

I am trying this mod on my eSlay-Revo. I tried to make my own spacer for inside the shock but was unsuccessful. I followed the same route Cameron used on his build.

I had quite a few pushrod spacers lying around...I took a pushrod spacer and the blue bumper and fitted to the shock shaft as shown.



The pushrod spacer is not an exact slip on fit...I think the movement will be marginal tho in the shock.

This mod has limited the shock movement by 8mm...I will need to test this mod and see what impact it has on the trucks performance.



The reason for this mod was to try lower the chassis closer to the ground...me eSlay-Revo is going to be more a bashing style drifter truck .

[BomberSTi]

The slayer pro does do some good drifting. I have mine dropped and widend the stance with some hub extensions and it drifts like a dream.

Just curious why not go with a dif spool for you rear dif? just was wondering since you said youd like it to be more of a drifter/basher...I run a rear spool in mine, and haven't had any issues. also helps for when your stuck in a tuff spot and need that locked diff to get out...lol helps save some walking time.

Def keeping close to the build, prob gonna be one of my next builds...

[MITCH316]

The slayer pro does do some good drifting. I have mine dropped and widend the stance with some hub extensions and it drifts like a dream.

Just curious why not go with a dif spool for you rear dif? just was wondering since you said youd like it to be more of a drifter/basher...I run a rear spool in mine, and haven't had any issues. also helps for when your stuck in a tuff spot and need that locked diff to get out...lol helps save some walking time.

Def keeping close to the build, prob gonna be one of my next builds...

Cheers mate...I was going to lock the rear before I started my build and use thicker diff lube but decided not too.

I took the eSlay-Revo out last night for a preliminary test drive to see how it handles (it's only half built)...I am very impressed; just not to sure about the stiff springs I am using at the moment. Also the shock limiter mod is very noticeable to me as the underside of the skid plates are quite low to the ground...the eSlay-Revo has a very stiff suspension setup.

I have decided to set it up as a race setup for now...might change my mind later on once I start using the truck more and get a feel for it.

This truck will only be used on road, grass and sand...not to rocky or rough surfaces.

[4sdash]

more pics of the running setup please

[MITCH316]

more pics of the running setup please

Will do mate...just slapped it quickly together to do some testing of the suspension setup and caster setting before it was built finished.

[humayrayakongkinaon]

hey craig have you tried the traxxas aluminum pivot ball cap? i remember you told me about the integy and that they have two different kind. i'm just curious about the traxxas one too.

[MITCH316]

hey craig have you tried the traxxas aluminum pivot ball cap? i remember you told me about the integy and that they have two different kind. i'm just curious about the traxxas one too.

No mate...I have seen them, never tried them...I like the o-ring on the pivot ball cap from Integy but in saying that my RPM pivot ball caps are aluminium with no o-ring on my eRevo, surprisingly they have not worked themselves loose.

[humayrayakongkinaon]

i think i'm going to try the traxxas one, they are like $6 something on ebay for 4 pieces.