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Thread: Strut Mod

  1. #1
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    Strut Mod

    First let me thank Double D for explaining things to me about my other posts. I feel a whole lot better. If anybody wants my ESC/CC Cap Water Cooled Heat Sink mod pictures let me know. Now for the good stuff!

    What I wanted to do with this mod was to have the grease poop out at the prop instead of the back of the boat. I also, wanted to be able to use all factory parts, and I wanted my strut to be adjustable, and easy to use with the electronics tray.

    What I did first was drill a 1/4 inch tap with a 1/4 inch bit.



    Then, I tinned the end of my 1/4 inch brass tube with my 100 watt sodering iron, and used a soldering torch to solder the joint.





    Next, I cut and trimmed my 1/4 inch tube down to 1/8 inch exposed. Next, I got a tube that fits snug over the 1/4 inch tube, (I can't remember the size, but it the next size up from 1/4 inch )and cut a 1 inch piece from it.



    Then, I soldered the 1 inch piece to the 1/4 piece that had been soldered to strut.



    From there, I cleaned up my strut with sand paper and Scotch Brite, greased the struts new brass end, and inserted it into the black grommet.



    The last thing I had to do was, to adjust my strut angle, and put my boat back together. With this strut mod, I'm able to use all my factory parts... factory brass tube, factory nylon tube...ect...ect. I would also like to add, that now (with this mod) it a lot easier getting my electronics tray in and out.





    I took my boat out today to test it, and all went very well. Well Gents, I hope you like my little mod, and I hope it let you have even more fun with your boat.

  2. #2
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    One question. How is the strut still adjustable? Where does it pivot or flex?
    To the men and women of the US military, thank you

  3. #3
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    With the two tubes sizes, and the length the tubes are cut to; it allows you to move the stut in any position that the factory strut mounting holes will allow. I easily could move the strut from dead center 3plus mm back/forth & 3mm up/down. For me I don't need even that. I usually have mine set all to the front & 1mm down. If though, the 3mm up/down wasn't enough, all you would have to do is trim the 1inch tube a little bit. This would allow you a little more up/down movement, and with each trimming would allow more up/down adjustment. I don't see why you would want to do that, but that's the way you could.

  4. #4
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    Nice Mod ReglarDude, very well done.

    I may have to try that next season.

    hog

  5. #5
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    Thanks Hog. It sure is nice not having that big glob of grease on the hull. I did get one idea off of you, though. And that was, only putting my 1/4 inch tube part way in the strut. Originally, I was leaning towards boring the full length of the strutt, and soldering the inserted 1/4 inch tube on both ends of the stut. This would of made it easier for me to get everything straight, but your way gave me a better surface for the flex shaft to spin in. So, I gave your idea a shot, and it worked out well. Thanks, for your idea.

  6. #6
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    So the one larger piece of tubing that goes through the transom is not a tight fit over the stuffing tube?
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  7. #7
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    Correct-dah-moon-doe, it's the next size up from a 1/4 inch brass tube. It's not a sloppy fit, but it's not a perfect snug fit either. I would say that you could (if it were possible, I'm only giving you a visual reference here) wrap a piece of paper around the 1/4 inch tube, and still get the bigger tube to fit on.

    I'll probably stop by AeroMarine today, and I'll get the size of the bigger tube. Also if for some reason, someone wanted even more adjustment than what I mentioned above, they could bend the main factory brass tube to get whatever they wanted. I however, didn't want to disturb the factory angle, and cut the length (of the bigger of the two tubes) to allow for the adjustment range that I knew I would personally need. I'm sure though from reading some of the other posts, that most people would not need more than a 3 mm (in any direction) range.

  8. #8
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    One Question I have is: The larger diameter tube obviously fits through the grommet without too much extra effort or stress on things?

    You won't have to remove the tubing from the grommet every time you pull the tray, only if you need to remove or change the strut, so a bit of extra effort to fit it through is not a big deal, just wondering how much tighter the larger tubing fits through.

    hog

  9. #9
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    Your exactly right, Hog. The only time you would have to take the tube out of the black grommet is if you wanted to remove the strut. The two tubes sizes I used (I stoped at AreoMarine today and looked) was 1/4 and 9/16 inch tubes. The 9/16 inch tube is a tight fit. To get it threw the grommet I put a little grease on the brass tube, and pushed it threw while giving it a twisting back/forth motion. I could of bored out the grommet hull hole (just a tad) to make it a smidge easier, but I wanted to keep it factory just incase I ever needed to go back to the factory set up.

    P.S. I got some wire drive/insert news for you. I'll post it later...nap time now.

  10. #10
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    I did my maintenance tonight from playing with my boat over the weekend, and I made one final adjustment to my little mod. I trimed 1/4 inch off of my 9/16 inch tube. Now, the final length of my 9/16 inch tube is 3/4 of an inch. I didn't have to do it, but I didn't want to trim it to final spec untill I was sure I didn't need it.

  11. #11
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    nice mod. That should make things cleaner and utilize the grease much better.

    Now! We need a mod where we can fill a reservoir at the top of the drive shaft/tube by the motor and the flex shaft sucks a light liquified grease (or thick oil) down into the nylon tube automatically so we never have to re-grease manually after every run!

    Back in the 80s we used to use a small oil drip container that would feed oil down onto our brushed commutators. Should be able to do here no?

  12. #12
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    Auto lubers have been discussed on occasion.

    I don't think anyone has ever tried designing one because the need to inspect the drive line for wear or damage every couple runs more or less negates any advantage to an auto lube system.

    It is also important to remove and dry the flex cable for storage, which again provides an opportunity to inspect and lubricate.

    hog

  13. #13
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    Well the difference between checking for wear on every run or once every 6 would be a load off me. True about drying the flex cable. But isn't the cable wound in such a way as to push things down the tube? if so, if you ran it on your table for a min or so and squeezed the lube in your feeder it would essentially flush out water, grim and old oil. Then let sit.

  14. #14
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    Awesome job!!

  15. #15
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    I have run my boat seveal times with this little strut mod, and guess what? I thought that I would be seeing greese spooging out of the the prop area instead of (out/on) the back of the boat, but what I'm finding is very little (almost non-existent) greese spooging. What's happening is; the greese is staying on the flex shaft.

    At first, I was lubing my flex shaft after every run (like I always did), but then I noticed that it took four-ish lubing cycles before I could even notice a little bit of greese spooging. I also noticed with each lubing cycle, that I didn't have any water droplets on my flex shaft, and that the flex shaft had a good amount of lube still left on it.

    Now, I don't exactly know why this is happening; but logically, I should be seeing greese coming out by the prop area after every run (due to the flex shaft cork screw effect). I do know this however, that now, I can easily get away with lubing the flex shaft after every fourth run (and I'm being very conservative here) instead of after every run. For some reason, the greese is staying on the flex shaft longer, and is not as sensitive to the cork screwing effect of the flex shaft.

    Anyway, I just thought I'd give you guys the skinny on what I found.
    Last edited by ReglarDude; 11-22-2012 at 06:35 AM.

  16. #16
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    Are you sure it's a 9/16 tube? That's over a 1/2"

  17. #17
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    If I remember right. It's been a while, but all you have to do is; go to the hobby store and get the next size that fits over a 1/4 inch tube.

  18. #18
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    is a 1/4" the factory size tube? I dont have 1 to measure?

  19. #19
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    Yep, and I'm positive on that one.

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