what size shaft is the brace DiggerPede? is it hallow or solid? all in all it looks very nice man.
what size shaft is the brace DiggerPede? is it hallow or solid? all in all it looks very nice man.
Awesome build mate...you guys are converting me to to join the rally crew.
I'm a Rock n Rolla !
I'd say it looks to be 3/8". I'll verify and in mm when I get home this evening. It's a CF tail boom, so should be hollow. I can double check that to.
Man it looks way cleaner in person. Pictures don't always do the justice of what it looks in person. Thanks.
Appreciate it. They are very fun to drive. I have fun drifting it around. The stock tires are actually a blast squeeling on smooth cement. I don't think you'll regret converting or buying one of these. I still like the rest of my fleet to. This just adds to the satisfaction of RC'n. LOL![]()
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength.
That looks like one heck-uv-a set up! Definitely no flex there, especially with those aluminum shock towers. Very nice build!!!
AB
It all started with a Slash 4X4....
I've been enjoying your build thread Digg, can't wait to see what you come up with next![]()
There are a few on eBay right now. Costs for a roller range from $180-275.
<< 1/10 Traxxas Rally >>
The cost of shipping is what will get you in the end. What about ordering a 1/10 Rally online and parting out what you don't want/need??
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength.
Cheers for that link mate...I tried to do a search on ebay.com...I obviously didn't type the right description. I am so use to searching the eRevo section as all my trucks are 1/10 eRevo based platforms.
I thought about buying a complete rally but the only things I am interested in is the diffs, chassis with front and rear bumpers and receiver.
Nothing like building and modding a custom rig.
I'm a Rock n Rolla !
That would be awesome man. I'm really impressed at how stiff and stable that brace is. I had my worries in the begining but now i'm super excited. Whenever I can get away from work i'm going to have fun with my RC's.
I'm obviously working today and just got a call to work the rest of the weekend. I said I can't Sunday as its my mandatory fatigue day. Can only work 14 days in a row, then off on the 15th. Which also happens to be SuperBowl Sunday. LOL Guess everyone else is taking off to, as they asked me to be here specifically. Gotta love Plant Life.![]()
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength.
Hey Digger...mate I ordered a set of the GTR shocks for my build as I have GTR shocks on all my other builds. I am wanting to try keep my spares all the same where practically possible.
I am trying to get my head around these springs...difficult when you don't have them in front of you. I've just been reading the parts list for the Slash platinum and the F springs are rated 0.767 rate (black) and the rear 0.874 rate (black).
I ordered some XO-1 springs for the front #5434 1.6 rate (blue) short spring and rear #5434A 1.6 rate (double blue) long spring. I am thinking that this might be to light for what I am trying to achieve.
My question is: would you know off hand if the stock revo springs fit these shocks fine with them been different lengths. For my build I want stiffer front suspension than the rear without using too thick of a shock oil. I was wanting to use a stiffer spring in front and was curious to know if the stock revo spring would fit these shocks without to much compression of the spring up front or to much preload on the spring in the rear.
Thanks.
Last edited by craig.mitch316; 02-06-2013 at 10:53 PM.
I'm a Rock n Rolla !
Are the ten-t shocks a direct fit to drop into the rally or do they require any modding?
Nice Mods Digger. Myself, Im just getting started but thanks for setting the example.![]()
I have a spare set of GTR Erevo shocks and put them SxS and the spring dia looks the same. The Slash GTR's are mounted on my Rally right now, if you want I can take them off this weekend and be sure for you. But i'm almost sure they are the same except for being shorter in the rears
You will need the a couple sets of LOSB2906 for the shock cap bushings. I used nitro tubing on my first set which has held up really well. Other than that they are pretty much bolt up like the LCG GTR's.
Thanks man. Let us know if you need any help with anything.![]()
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength.
Digger I tried to pm you and your inbox was full. Just so your aware.
Anytime man. I should have compared these to the Erevo shocks in the begining. I had the Erevo shocks way at the bottom of my big trucks bin. I looked and looked and finally found them. LOL I might have to put these to good use on a build. Thoese Revo springs are dang hard though (red). I'm sure the oil in them is a heavy weight to.
Sorry bro. It's cleaned out now.
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength.
I picked up a couple sets of new treads.
On road:
Slicks:
Both of these are just a mm or 2 smaller than the 1/8 buggies I posted earlier in the thread. I picked these both up for a little over $50.
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength.
Yo Digger, nice shoes! What wheels and tires are those? I'm starting to collect parts for my next project! I'm going to build an on-road Rally/GT8 using the LCG chassis, rolling on 17mm hubs. Thanks!
AB
It all started with a Slash 4X4....
Thanks! Found 'em, good price too.
AB
It all started with a Slash 4X4....
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength.
nice buy there DiggerPede. the only onroad combo that i have'nt buy from him yet are the treaded one, its suppossively belted tires. let us know how good they are.
I bought a set of SCT slick's from suprasale's and they are awesome drift tire's. Better squeal from them than the stocker's. I think when it warm's up here they will be even better for onroad track use, they have really good grip in the cold but I think they will be better when it warm's up a bit. The 2400 on 3s will still over power then and get them to break loose. But with a throttle control they work great on the asphalt. Liking the spoke rim to Digger.
*Proud Husband of United state's Air Force wife.*
i notice the treaded ones have skinnier spoke rims? thats probably even lighter![]()
no no no, i want you to run it so that you can tell us how you like it. i saw one guy with his ofna GT with a sweep wheels/tires and it looks smaller and narrow compare to my suprasales. he has a MMM/2200 also and it did'nt impressed me much, its was sliding everywhere lol.
Yay for being of today, finally. We ended up going to the local school playground. So I charged up a 3S pack and let her rip for 40 minutes. I had a blast, much needed RC time. LOL
This is my first time running it since upgrading the shock tiers to STRC alloy and the chassis brace. I also bumped the pinion up a couple teeth. Think ours now 19T. This sucker ran like a scalded cat. Temps running 75% grass reached 160°.
Here's a couple shots after cleaning up.
I'm finishing up my Slash revamp hopefully tonight. Then the work table will be cleared so I can slap those new road tires and slicks.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength.
Digger,
I was looking at some battery hold down options. I was able to get 4 traxxas NiMhs for 50 bucks, used, but in excellent condition. The Nimhs are Traxxas 2926 which go to the stampede or slash I believe, which have the 7 batt cell on top in the center, which will not work with the stock hold down retainer. Would swapping out the rally battery hold down retainer with the Slash's work? Based on my research, the length is 29mm. I know the rally slides in to stay seaed and the slash's uses a pin. But I figure I could make it work, especially if all I have to do is file down the end a bit.
Here's a few photos
Battery Hold Down: Traxxas 5827X -
Battery: Traxxas 2926 -![]()
Last edited by BASH N SLASH; 02-23-2013 at 10:30 PM.
"Incoming rounds always have the right of way!"
I'll check that out for you tonight. I have a Slash hold down that I could try. Sorry I missed this, I would have tested last night.
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength.
No worries, I appreciate the help. The lengths are 29mm based on the hold down retainer. So hopefully it does work![]()
"Incoming rounds always have the right of way!"
The back forks would have to be modded (cut the distance in between). The slash seems to be slightly slimmer. Then trim the distance from end to end. The 7 cell flat packs are a perfect fit though. I think you might be able to make this work. Let me know if yay out nay.
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Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength.
Hey! The postman dropped off a nice little mail envelpe yesterday. This sucker shipped from Lithuania, and to my door in less than 2 weeks. Not bad if you ask me.
First impression its the same quality as the other Dusty Motor Shrouds. It fits really good where the other didnt because they were made for the non-LCG chassis. The shroud velcros right into place between the nerf bars and front and back of them. It also has elastic stretch at the front and rear of the chassis (like its predecessor) and also around the nerf bars where the cutouts are. In the pictures when I purchased it I was kinda leary at how short it was in the front as it doesnt go all the way to the front. I know why they did that now. So if you mounted your Rx box up there it wouldnt have to overlap it or have a big bulge. It looks kinda funny on the chassis but actually fits really good. The good thing is they still use the zipper top so you can access your battery, unplug it, and/or cut the truck off. I still remove mine when I blow out the chassis innards. I know I still need to fill the void where the nerf bars have an opening. Probably end up cutting some foam and squishing it in there. I'll definitely let you guys know how well it keeps junk off the chassis. I still end up getting some trash in there but not near as much as if I wasnt. I mean it does more than just that, but that is one of the reasons. Sorry for the louzy pics as they don't do it any justice really. I'm almost done with my Slash Revamp then the table will be cleared. Stinking allergies are kicking my bud. Ugh!!
Thanks for looking.![]()
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength.
So I don't have this shroud yet, "future buy", but I have been trying to think of a way to close all the gap's. I have 8 or 10 small R.E.M magnet's, these guy's are super strong. I was thinking I could glue 2-3 of them to the top of the chassis where the shroud hit's and get the wife or myself to sew in 2-3 to the shroud itself. You would have to open up the seam on the shroud to stuff the magnet's in there. Sew the magnet's into place and I think they will hold the shroud down the best and allow you to remove it still. I think this could easily work on the gap at the nerf bar's as well.
*Proud Husband of United state's Air Force wife.*
Digger,
I'll let you know how it goes.
Joe
"Incoming rounds always have the right of way!"
Ok,
Got the parts in yesterday and rebuilt the Rally. First off, I love the design behind these Rally/Slash's! So easy to build/tear down, etc. I know this is nothing new to you pros and joes, but I must admire their creativeness.
With some small modifications, I was able to make the slash battery hold down brace work for the Rally. This particular brace was the extended version for taller batteries, which may or may not have had much affect. I presume the stock slash/pede hold down brace may have worked the same with the same type mods. Enough talking. Here's some photos.
I have some additional photos in my other thread "Rally Meets Curb" - I have a few questions.
"Incoming rounds always have the right of way!"